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You could be talking about Bungendore Phil. When I moved here in '87 you could stand at the end of the main drag and fire a 303 down the middle of the road and the only thing you'd be likely to hit would be a dog licking its balls in the road outside one of the pubs! Fast forward 34 years and if you even attempted it you'd perforate three 'Yummy Mummies' in yoga pants in their Range Rover *Grocery Getters*, several besuited pinheads who look like real estate agents, (And probably are!) and thirty cashed up, bogan, Tradies queueing up at the many 'Boutique' coffee shops to get their pie and iced coffee, (What is it with Tradies and iced coffee??) before heading off the Jerry-build another two hundred identical McMansions in the flood prone swamps the developers have bribed council into allowing them to build on! Thank all that's holy I live opposite the cemetery! I think even our council might find it hard to allow the developers free hand to build on someone else's Aunty Mavis! At least my sociopathic neighbour has pissed off at last and been replaced by a seemingly pleasant and friendly young woman who doesn't make endless, incessant, angle grinding noises and deliberately damage our property! Hooray!

Agree @docc, I usually learn something from them too I don't know what to expect from measuring the AC voltage with the regulator in circuit. I think the regulator will effect the volts measured, but I'm not an auto electrician, simply an enthusiastic amateur. If you could get your buddy to test the Alternator open circuit, i.e. disconnect the 2 yellow wires and then measure AC volts across the wires you'll know if the Alternator is good or not. That way the Alternator is isolated from the rest of the electrical system. Perhaps greater minds than mine will chime in @Kiwi_Roy is probably your best bet.

No apologies necessary! Pretty sure @Weegie (and others) get as much out of these puzzles as I do. The V11 Workshop Manual give the following values for alternator output in AC volts: 1000 RPM 15 vAC 3000 RPM 40 vAC 6000 RPM 80 vAC If your alternator is not functioning, I don't think the regulator can be evaluated solely on the present voltage reading until the alternator is actually putting out. There are some resistance and diode tests that can be performed on the regulator statically, but seems reasonable to get the alternator around and recheck the running voltages at that point.

The counter guy at the electrical repair shop here in New Haven has no idea the bullet he dodged in not having to endure my babbling incoherence. You guys cannon fodder instead. His gain, your loss.

Help more? You guys have been great and patient and thorough in walking me through this. I can't thank enough. The bike has a one year old battery and since there is a battery drain with the key out of the ignition (I ran some better grounds, all the connections at the battery have been cleaned up. I thought I had it licked, but it is still present.) I keep it on a tender. I will order the regulator from ElectroSport that docc linked to. The website says they have them in stock, so I'll roll off this post and order one before the giant truck backs up to their loading dock to fulfill the giant order from Tennessee. Rumor is that there's a hoarder sitting on heaps of them down there. cheers, Marcus

@Weegie makes a good point about the connections, including the stack of ring terminals on the battery as well as fuse 5 and Relay 2 (faults in those last two would be giving you other outages). 12.4v is maybe 40% on an AGM battery. I would be inclined to "condition" that battery and not expect the V11's weedy charging system to bring it up.

Hi, kids. They booted me from nursery school early, so I'm back with chapter . . . I haven't kept track, but it's nearing War and Peace level page count. I did as was suggested and checked output with yellow alternator wires isolated from the wiring harness of the bike. 18v AC at idle 45v AC at 3,000rpm 65-ish at higher rpm, prlly about 5,000, I hate spinning a motor at rest high, don't know why. This seems to comport with what is specced for it and indicates the alternator is functional? Would this point to the regulator?

"these people" don't have the balls to face you with what they don't like so they get someone else to do it in the name of YOUR safety. That be nanny.

Moneys changing everything. My friend moved to a small rural "boutique" town about 20 years ago, a 6 hour drive from Sydney. Lovely town, eclectic mix of locals, it's own specific economy, tolerant welcoming warm people and great weather. I used to go there for a break on their farm from my stressful city job. Kept me sane more than once. Then it got popular with the big city folk that sold up and moved up there. Problem is when they arrive and settle in they eventually take over the local council and destroy the original charm of the place by modernising it and turning it into a suburb of the city they've recently left. A small intimate old world architecture country town now with a planned 3 story modern building with a supermarket on the ground floor right in the middle of it. Go figure. You move to a place because of the charm, elegance and lifestyle, then set about destroying it. Cashed up Bogans. Ciao

I did visually inspect all the fuses at the onset. All seem to be in order. No sign of any burning etc. Checked the 30amper for continuity and all good. I ordered a new regulator.

Ha, duh on my part. For sure the nefarious 30 amp Fuse#3 should be inspected for continuity and sign of heat damage. I’ve had them burn off a blade without blowing the fuse.

Damm I forgot about Fuse 3, when you mentioned fuses @docc would that not stop the bike charging, it looks like it could to me? I keep forgetting about it as none of my bikes have anything like that That's so easy and well worth checking, as well as all the other stuff

From these values it does not appear to be the alternator Your battery voltage sounds good from your previous posts, so it's starting to point at the Reg/Rec. I suppose the next thing to do is to ensure all the connections to the Reg/Rec are secure and clean and the unit is adequately grounded ( @docc beat me to it) I don't know how to test a single phase, series Reg/Rec and I think that's what this unit is. We could really do with @Kiwi_Roy here, I'm going to drop him a PM and hope he responds Sorry I can't help more

Great news! Those voltages are solid. Regulator time! Take time to run a dedicated ground wire from the regulator case to the timing chest of the motor.

for sure. The Okla State Fairgrounds built a great 1/2 mile track and grandstand in the '50s. It was featured in the movie "State Fair" where Pat Boone built his own race car -a JAG D Type !!!!- to race on the dirt. Anyway, the city fathers learned about the image of a "dirt" track in the middle of the City after 60 years. So as usual, they let the place go to pot where it was "economically non-viable" to get it up to code, despite the fact that several race sponsors were building contractors and offered to do it for free. So no dirt track or grandstand, just a vacant lot in the Fairgrounds now. It's quiet on Friday nights. The track was effectively replaced by a bought NBA Franchise, The Oklahoma City Thunder. We're pretending to be a growed up big league city now.

Yes, yes, those AC readings are between the two yellow alternator output wires disconnected from the wiring harness.

Immensely helpful. Thank you.

Last thing from me If that was AC Volts and not DC Volts then it's definately defective, ideally the test is carried out using a good quality meter. In the thread docc pointed to you can see warnings about cheap meters having problems with AC ranges. If the meter was set on DC Volts I'd expect a small reading as there usually is a small DC component. EDIT Thinking about this some more I realized you still had the alternator connected to the Reg/Reg when you took the 3.5-4.5V measurement, if I understood you earlier. The Voltage test needs to be conducted with the Alternator "Open Circuit" (in other words disconnected from the Reg/Rec), so no idea what voltage to expect measuring that way. This is from the Centauro manual but I'm pretty sure the V11 runs the same alternator Alternator With the engine switched off, disconnect the two yellow generator cables from the rest of the system and then carry out the following tests with a ohmmeter: Check the winding isolation towards earth Connect one connecting point of the ohmmeter to one of the two yellow cables and the other connecting point to earth (laminar pack). The instrument should indicate a value above 10 M Check the winding continuity Connect the two connecting points of the ohmmeter to the two yellow cables. The instrument should indicate a value of 0.2÷0.3 . Good Luck with it, it does sound like it's defective and you're well on the way to getting it repaired

Ah, yes, Irish and Manx roadracing. Absolute gladiators, those riders! My same sentiments for the (Paris-) Dakar Rallye contestants. What pluck and untold determination. Let us hope the likes of Human Cannonballs yet still at large!

Yea understand docc but at some point you need to fight these people tooth and nail or they'll shutdown everything. I've been witness to 2 race tracks shut down due to "local" complaints. Tracks originally built well outside of the metro area but then over the years invaded by regional developers. Same story, build a track and then have people build houses next to it and get it shut down. Everyone that enters a race track to ride or drive it signs a waiver even on a track day. The reason the TT survives is purely down to local support, same for the Irish road racing. Dangerous as hell but the racers know the risks. Even riding on the road comes in for attack periodically from the "sensible people" and we have to fight them off. Ciao

This one: Compared to the vulnerable factory original:

Yes, Weegie, def volts were measured, not amps as I earlier stated. As far as I can tell, the yellow connections on the stator are intact, certainly not obviously detached. I spoke with a local shop that rebuilds alternators and took some pix of the unit to show to him, I'm a little confused as to what is possible as regards rebuilding, I think he said he would only need the stator. This will doubtless be contradicted tomorrow and I will be back here tomorrow bellyaching like I do. I looked at the ElectroSport stator that docc linked; which is out of stock since the last one they had is now likely residing in Tennessee.

Here ya go, @Purloined:

Thanks my fellow Rush nerd ;-)

Just a follow-on post for the OP @VtwinStorm to clarify the frame references. Your Ducati have "trellis" frames, if I have that right? Moto Guzzi V-twins before the "Spine Frame" had variations of tubular "cradle" frames referred to as "Loop Frames" and "Tonti Frames" until the very sporting Moto Guzzi Daytona was introduced in 1992. The "Tonti" cradle frame remained for the "V11 cruiser" models along with the 5 speed gearbox. From 1992 through 1998 sporting "SpineFrames" (Daytona, Sport 1100, 1100 Sport-i, and Centauro) used the 5 speed gearbox. As Lucky Phil stated, when the 1999 V11 Sport was introduced, the first Guzzi 6speeder was born and used throughout the range. Yes, they can be set up very sweetly and suit the aggressive gearing of the V11sport/LeMans models nicely. For reference, @VtwinStorm, here is the exposed frame of an early (1999-2001) "short"/RedFrame. V11 LeMans/Sport/etc spine frames from 2002-2005 are longer/differ slightly.

I honestly cannot figure out the Guzzi "cruiser-thing" nomenclature at all. But we won't sort that out here. Only a few years back, the V11 commonality came to our attention in that this subforum, Technical Topics, is subtitled " V11 only ", yet it really it is > SpineFrame V11 only < Apparently the cruiser bikes technically have a "V11" motor, albeit not in the same sporting tune of the SpineFrame models. Perhaps this is part of the source of confusion @VtwinStorm is finding. There is also the matter of other sites and posters not having the depth of knowledge, expertise, and experience regarding the V11 Le Mans/Sport embodied here. I've [paraphrased] this before, "The world's foremost expert on the Spine Frame V11 Moto Guzzi are us."