Leaderboard

That be me, sir. 14k mi. and third r/r. I didn't test anything. Looked at fuses and relays, checked the 'prone to break' stator wire (per docc) and then replaced the r/r. I think the r/r can be considered 'prone to fail' now as well, especially when subjected to unnecessary heat as my last one was. For some reason the arrangement on the Tenni places the r/r in the worst possible position for any cool air to reach it. I tried to find a better spot... to no avail. Considering a fan. Anyway... next time I have a no charge event I will just order another r/r. If that does not cure, I will have a spare, which I will need in future... anyway*. *this is an UN-scientific approach by a "parts replacer", but since I said 'science' first... it must be ok.

I'm pretty sure the regulator was last bolted onto this bike in late 1999 in Mandello del Lario. The grinding pain of an undiagnosed, crippling malady festers; so if the price of exiting an exotic, cryptic failure is the cost of a voltage regulator, I will praise that outcome. Maybe it don't fix it, but the fact that I was able to get to here so quickly was because you guys kept coming back with helpful suggestions; and quickly. In the sweltering heat of last Monday night, I was pushing my Chernobyl radiator of motorcycle through the city, back to my garage after it sputtered. I got schooled on Tuesday, Wednesday and today I didn't buy a stator I don't need and somebody in California is putting a box in a box and sending me a voltage regulator. A huge triangle from which to clink glasses and cheers from; but y'all know why. And yeah, I sipped at the trough of too many electrical calamities, tales of woe published on these pages the last few days, and also think that there's an account of someone's new regulator curing their battery drain malady. I'm sometimes in bed at night thinking about the battery blood-sucking going on in yonder garage. it's not calming. Hyar. Hope is by reputation, a balm. I will let you know.

http://www.casperselectronics.com/cart/index.php?route=common/home http://www.casperselectronics.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=853&search=guzzi+tps&description=true

She is about 99% done, runs very good, just a few electrical issues to sort out, generator may or may not working and the headlight is giving me fits, but other than that she is road ready. I pulled a little bit of the 60's/70's out of the style, pin stripes and chrome knee area of the tank, a little more understated.

Once upon a time Pete before Political correctness and the "I'm offended by everything" world arrived something like this would never have seen the light of day because your mates down the pub would have told you what a total tosser you were even before you managed to order the materials to build it. It would therefor have remained a nasty unrealised figment of someone's lack of creative style where it deserves to be. Now at some coffee shop, the builder would be regaled by a bunch of Soy Latte sipping, Stoker cap wearing, designer stubble, woke shemen telling them how awesome and "super fantastic" it was going to be. Ciao

Let's keep the posts safe for work. 😆 Yum...

20mm longer, fwd of the front frame engine mount. Ciao

And here is the exposed frame of a 2003 Sport, it’s slightly longer than the earlier red frame (@ 25 mm from memory)

Yes docc its a crush gasket and they always stick in the head because as they crush the expand radially and jam in the port. Together with the carbon build up it's often almost impossible to see them in there. Scratch around with a small pick or screwdriver and you'll find it then lever it out. Ciao

I'm new to MG and of course speedo/odo packed up. It's an 02 Scura. The angle drive seems to be the culprit, I managed to find another, I'm guessing it won't last either. Needle was bouncing around quite a bit, odo reset knob is missing. Looks pretty grim as to replacing it. I stink at electrics. I have some Veglia gauges from my Ducati stash, the diameter seems close, gauge face is white, only yellow and black wire, 60 degree angle on back of gauge. It's a 160 instead of 140 though. Could this be a viable option? For some reason, Ducatis don't seem to have speedo issues as badly as the V11 Veglias so. There seem to be a lot of them on ebay for decent prices.

Okay, here is an image of the metal disc plug JBWelded in. They are bad about leaving the party without asking. And taking your one-and-only internal drive gear with it . . .

Fabulous! Thank you…that’s the one. Now to figure out the process…Guzzidiag is easy to use, so hopefully this hunt for 157 Millivolts will be as well.

Is there a part # for this Casper cable or a link of where to buy gents? I have my Guzzidiag cables, done everything on the Norge, Griso and Scura, but this 157 millivolt check on the TPS. I have a good voltmeter, but I keep reading the process over and over and can't really figure it out just yet, but since I don't have the Casper wires to do it just yet, might as well get those and then see if the volts are in line with what they should be! Thanks!

You and your LeMans are going to love each other even more with some sonorous canisters and diligent tuning. The cabling allows you to connect guzzidiag, but you will also need a quality voltmeter to set the TPS, and a way to balance the throttle bodies. Details here: MySport, with the (likely Mistral made) Moto Guzzi "for off-road use" accessory canisters, has done fabulously on the Decent-tune up and factory map, factory cross-over. The pods will cause you more difficulties, but not impossible. Get some canisters you like the looks of (I've never heard a V11 I didn't love the sound of), and use the Decent Tune-up as a baseline. Here is a pretty thorough cross-over evaluation:

How I define Italian motorcycle brands: their names end in a vowel; example: Guzzi, Ducati, MV Agusta, Benelli, Laverda, Aprilia, Kawasaki, Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, Kawasaki (not in any specific order) The non Italian brands: BMW, Triumph, Norton, KTM, Harley Davidson, Indian...

I got everything back together with a new spring (thanks @Scud) and it all works well now. When I put it back together I could see how the shift lever could interfere one way or another with the frame side plate (pork chop) on downshifts or the connector piece behind the top of the shift lever on upshifts if the linkage isn't adjusted properly - its a fairly narrow range of adjustment for the lever to not interfere with anything. I think my issue was the eccentric was interfering with the proper movement of the shift selector, and its fine now that I adjusted it to roughly .030" clearance. All in all a pretty easy job once I figured out how it all works. Thanks for all the help everyone!

Since the angle drive was screwed anyway, I took it apart. Very crappy gears, output gear was cracked, input had lots of casting flash. I have a friend that is a jeweler and has experience casting intricate fiddly stuff. If it was possible to get these drives apart gracefully and hand finish and lube them, they might last longer.

If you peruse the forum, you will find a few threads discussing this sorry issue. Just above, I posted a link to a US based Veglia/ITI instruments' wizard. For you, since both speedo and odo are not working, it may be the angle drive. People with better experience in these matters will chime in I am sure.

I’m lost for words, what a way to butcher a V11, awful, styled by Lego

Dunno if this will be any use, but I stumbled across a thread on WG about a similar issue with a Cali Pretty certain it's the same system and in there is a schematic from Roy with suggestions on how to test said Reg/Rec (but you'd need a scope). Useful thing to "squirrel" away, even if it's just to take to an Auto Electrician if you were going to ask him to take a look at the Reg/Rec https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=111896.0 Ouch 2 years out a battery, guess that's the price you pay living somewhere you get good weather and can ride a bit. I'll get 8 years at least out a battery like an Odessey, but with the weather here in Jockland most of the time the bikes are simply sheltering from the rain. Been a long time since I rode owned a Triumph, but their charging systems were even worse. Seem to recall that massive Zener with all the cooling fins sticking out the triple tree. More than one ocassion I was left trying to make it somewhere in the dark on the side/parking light when both filaments blew in the H4? thanks to Uncle Joe. I was young in those days and had other things on my mind. A dodgy headlight wasn't going to get in the way of a night with the g/f (how times change). Not knocking older Triumph's though, they were/are great bikes, Bonnies and Tigers especially, simple and super fun. John

Come now! Can you not appreciate it's stainless steel prison toilet chic? If you want to scream 'Meth head' to the world this, surely this is the ride for you?!

Just what I wanted, a motorcycle designed for human-sized LEGO people. What an atrocity. Ugh.

Ahh damm on the fuse thought I might have found a really easy fix, but it was not to be!!! This is just a shot in the dark, but as I mentioned earlier sometimes when a rectifier goes bad (although I don't what's inside that particular one) it can cause a parasitic drain through a bad diode, to ground. You might find that if it is the rectifier that's at fault then your parasitic drain on the battery disappears with it

Naturally I am saddened by the death of anyone especially if they are competing in anything. I'm more than aware of what it's like waiting anxiously for a friend to come around again at the TT with my fingers crossed. However, if we are going to ban everything that's dangerous or apply a risk matrix to everything in life then life will be a colourless, dour affair. i wonder if in reality the "car crowd" are somehow behind this? As in wanting more track time for themselves and larger car numbers and have looked for any excuse to push the bike guys out via pressure on the organisers. The "car crowd" have been responsable for the deaths of many bike racers over the years starting back in the 60's with pressure on the race organisers to line European tracks with Armco. Fine for F1 drivers at the time but deadly to the bike racers of the day. Not that the F1 drivers association cared about that. Ciao

I took the V10 for a ride the other day after all my riding lately being 2 up on the Royal Enfield 650 which has quite a nice easy shifting gearbox. The ride on the Guzzi reminded me how good the Guzzi 6 speeder was shifting. Feels nice and tight and precise as opposed to the RE which is direct and has a mechanical feel but looser. I still think the RAM lightweight clutch is a giant leap forward with regards to Guzzi 6 speed gearbox operation. Ciao

There is no drum to be shimmed on the four shafter as the selector forks are moved by geared cam plates. If you have the cover off, for spring replacement for example, it's worth de-burring the grooves the forks run in. That tends to help quicken up and smooth the selection.

Bottom line is that the value of all other US Scuras just went up a bit.

I carry relays - haven't needed 'em. I carry a tire puncture repair kit and inflator - haven't needed 'em. I carry some cash - haven't needed it (till recent camping trip when I donated it to the family for a trip to the camp store). I carry a spare plug and cap - haven't needed 'em. I failed to put a spare spring in my under-seat repair kit after doing the pre-emptive replacement recently - and I needed it. See? CAUSAL relationship established.

The secret stash was secret even to you? Oh, the joy of discovery and self-congratulations. e.g. "My past self was so smart to stash away these parts for my present self to find... I simply must uncork a beverage." But, if they did quit, it would be sort of cooler to have the odometer at 99,xxx, rather than 00000. Anybody can get to zero, but a high number on a dead odometer becomes permanent garage art. If there was one more digit (as on most BMWs), this would be a non-issue - cuz you'd get to see 100,000.

Density of lead: 11.86 g/cm3 Density of Iron: 7.86 g/cm3 You will lose a lot of weight per volume, so SS won't work as well. I imagine damping has more to do with weight than with hardness. J

Normally it's just a voltage regulator. Plug and go. But with both of mine regardless I'll get 2 years on a battery between the battery starting a high compression motor, the heat of Arizona sapping the battery and the Luigi (Lucus's Italian cousin) electrics. My Triumph Bonnevilles were the same way. And mind you these bikes are 20 years old now. Vibrations rattling solder points, etc. My Scura needs a battery after 2 years. Got exactly 2 years, 2 weeks out of the Yuasa.