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Hi, allow me to step in and add some comments. If I mentioned a valve play of 0,3mm for the V11 camshaft, then I made a mistake. The V11 camshaft is well designed and doesn't need any additional play to overcome (too) long slopes. The 0,3mm are recommended for all OEM pre-CARC camshafts, as they have a tremendously long slope. As a result the valves are slightly open for more than 100° CW before the actual opening cycle, with the accompanying loss of pressure in the combustion chamber and increased valve temperature for lack of cooling time with the valves connecting to the seat. My recommended settings for the bypass screws and CO trim are only intended to simplify the usage of the BIN with different engines than mine. CO trim can be set accurately, but many seem to have problems adjusting it with GuzziDiag while the engine is running. I always choose the easier path of directly modifying the CO trim values in the EEPROM. The bypass screws are more problematical, as my 1/2 turn opening might be your 1/2+1/16 turn opening. They are not graduated. The impact of CO trim (+/- fuel) and bypass (+/- air) is most pronounced a low TPS settings. So the idea is to avoid this potential pitfall, especially the potential mis-syncing of both cylinders. My BIN is based on AFR measurements and my targeted AFR targets for the respective breakpoints. (Btw, I've revisited the 15M and to a lesser degree the 15RC code and found that the code contains a calculation which causes CO trim to taper off and disappear at 3000rpm) Some may remember that the measuring and logging on the V11 was done with highly dissatisfying equipment form Innovate. I eventually switched to Zeitronix, ZT2 and 3, which are much better, for my efforts with the Jackal and Norge. As this is mostly finished I moved the equipment to the V11 and started re-measuring it. The result is here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nIzV4LkFXJUyDMalLagnWb6c9I_0R0Bt/view?usp=sharing Changes versus the 93_6 BIN are fuel values (improved AFR synchronicity between the cylinders) and changed ignition values (the engine runs less harshly in the 4-5k rpm/~15-30° TPS area. I will continue to work on the ignition, but since I have no means of measuring the effect except for my seat-of-pants, this is the area where the biggest remaining improvements are hidden. I've also noticed that, after re-working the butterfly valves and the shafts, there's an much larger than expected discrepancy between fuel values over the first two TPS breakpoint columns. As I intend to open the engine anyway to inspect the valves, I'll revisit the throttle bodies as well. This is mostly a cosmetic issue, the bike runs splendidly. But first the rebuild of the Mille GT (change to a BMW K100 fork with 41,3mm diameter instead of 35mm, new camshaft, improving the valve timing, ....) and the SPIII rebuild after I was crashed by a young Italian lady in the hills above Genua have to be finished. Cheers Meinolf

Generally speaking I've had very few problems with Guzzi looms as long as people leave them alone! As soon as you start chopping into them or adding shit where it isn't supposed to go things can go sideways real fast! Yet another reason to hate Power Commanders! On the oil temperature dipstick business I have one in the Griso and while it's main purpose is to make one anxious I actually think that they are probably a better indicator of actual oil temperature than a gauge with a sender screwed into the sump simply because the material of the sump is cooled by air flow and, if it's raining, water which skews the signal considerably. With the dipstick the probe hangs about just about in the middle of the sump and is permanently drenched by the maelstrom of oil flying off the crank, (Where it has just finished doing its hardest work.) and whipped up by windage from the sump itself. In my experience the stick gauges are pretty accurate, or at least the ones I've tested have been, when given the boiling water test.

True but I'd rather know if my battery is charging over the oil temp, when is the last time you heard of a Guzzi with too hot oil?

Today, I tested; The old starter, when hit with the battery, actually turned- and intermittently spun, slowed, stopped, shook loose and turned again. I performed amp draw (best I could holding the meter and screwdriver) I used a good automotive battery on the old starter, so it may deliver more peak amps than the bike's Odyssey. That said, test results peak observed amp draw; New starter, 54a to start, ~40a turning the motor Old starter; 80a min turning, 394a siezed. I did not miss the decimal point.

At least with later Guzzis you can read the error codes through the dash. BMW? Well? What did you expect?

From my experiments with oil on the Sporti and the HiCam, my opinions, for all that's worth, is with a 2v/v Guzz you've little to worry about. Oil pressure and temp on my bikes are stable and of little concern. I've got a dipstick temp thingy and a pressure gauge on all the bikes. I run a 15/50 full synth on all these engines Sporti runs a bit hotter than my LM 1000 engine, which has a Vee sump and is stupidly well behaved and tends to run on the cold side. Sporti a bit hotter nearer 100C in 20C ambients and the pressure is rock steady. My HiCam C kitted bike is a completely different kettle of fish. It runs around 60ish psi in free air, over 40mph, and temp approx 105, the minute I hit traffic it rockets with corresponding drop in pressure. Seen 130C sump temps, God knows what the heads are at. When you reach there oil pressure at idle is through the floor, around 8psi or less and my pressure light will come on, time to pull over and wait. I advocated the dipsticks temps a long time back and was subject to some ridicule, not on here I may add. It depends on your philosophy towards engines, being a test engineer in another life, I always like to have data if I can get it. @po18guy jokes about ignorance being bliss but honestly I've came across people who really don't want to know. Again not on here, somebody advocated that pressure and temp gauges are useless because Guzzi didn't give you recommendations on their limits. I just find that attitude astonishing, but we're all different. As far as voltmeters I just run one of these little LED lights that changes colour when Voltage rises or falls between given thresholds. I'd rather have meter but not enough room and the light is enough to let me know I'd better get home or find somewhere to stop the bike and get a bus or train home. Better than getting stranded miles from anywhere on a dodgy road.

Backstory; Starter front bearing locked up on my '97 1100 Sport-i. It appears to be the original starter, but may not be. I replaced it with the $100 'not-Valeo' unit from MG Cycle. It appears that the only difference between the two is the sticker- even the rivets holding the housing together are identical. It fit perfectly, spun fast, started instantly. Never has it started so quickly and easily before, and it's been cold for over a week. Huzzah. To dig just a bit deeper, I've had this bike for ~15,000 miles now. I've only used this new starter one time, but it's apparent that the old starter had been working hard for quite some time- even though the cranking speed never made me think that anything was going wrong. I've had a lithium battery and now Odyssey in it, and with the lithium it cranked and started easier, but the reserve crank on the lithium just wasn't good enough. With the Odyssey, I had to crank it 3-4 times to get it to fire. After the starter locked and the battery 'failed' I brought it home, checked the battery which I thought had shorted and verified that it was in fine shape. Here's the punchline- the locked starter took the fully charged Odyssey to ~5.6 volts while (attempting) to crank. The ECU if it's of standard construction won't operate below about 9.5 volts. So my wager is that this starter had been drawing too much amperage for quite a long time before it seized and gave up completely. I think I'm going to dig out my Amp gauge and measure both the new starter in situ, and the old starter on the bench for comparison; the purpose and question here is, 'is this slow, long-term failure common?'. Has anyone done an amp draw on theirs as a matter of interest in the past?

"Sheppies" aside (what an interesting aside - heh: play on words! ), I discovered a bit of a "reset" trying for the 200.000 kays mark. I've been using the common 0.62 conversion factor (124,000 miles = 200.000 km). Creeping up on the mark got me thinking, in my helmet, that 0.62 is likely an approximation. Sure enough, the most accurate conversion factor is 0.621371 . No big deal over a couple hundred miles/km, but over 200.000 kays? That's an additional 274.2 miles. Simply means more riding to get there, so - good problem to have! Still looking to make the mark during this year of Moto Guzzi's Centenary . . .

Wot? No, mine looked like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJJSayaN0SU

I got an oil temp gauge for my Scura because it looks cool. I can't read it while riding, and I never even think about it anymore, except when I check the oil - and I do that when it's cold. But hey, it still looks cool.

7th Stop: Etape #38; La Salle Statue From his real name, René Robert Cavelier, "Sieur de la Salle". A French guy who is recorded for is settlement in the Matagorda bay (where the statue is), laying the foundation for the United States' Texas claim. This is what riding a Moto Guzzi leads to.... historical discovery. It is about a 300 miles ride, or 580 km for those of us using the metric system. 6 hours of Guzzi ride, with two stops at Wharton "Buc'ees. If you do not know Buc'ees is a Texas based chain. They have these Texas built gas stations with numerous pumps and all the services to go with them. That includes immaculate bathrooms. They have grown very popular and at migration times, no matter how large, they get so crowded that they need police to organize traffic... According to the narrative written around the Statue, this guy was quite the deal: BORN IN ROUEN, FRANCE, NOVEMBER 22, 1643. CAME TO CANADA IN 1666. FOUNDED A FIRST SETTLEMENT NEAR MONTREAL. LED SEVERAL EXPEDITIONS ON THE GREAT LAKES AND THE OHIO AND ILLINOIS RIVERS. COMPLETED THE EXPLORATION OF THE MISSISSIPPI 1682. ON JULY 24, 1684, LA SALLE SAILED FROM FRANCE TO ESTABLISH A COLONY AT THE MOUTH OF THE MISSISSIPPI. LANDED AT MATAGORDA BAY FEBRUARY 15, 1685. THERE ESTABLISHED FORT ST LOUIS WHILE ON HIS WAY TO CANADA. HE WAS MURDERED NEAR THE TRINITY RIVER MARCH 19, 1687. A GENTLEMAN BUT NOT A COURTIER, A PROUD INDEPENDENT YET TIMID NATURE. AN EXPLORER OF BOLD VISION AND UNTIRING ENERGY. LA SALLE'S COLONY ON MATAGORDA BAY GAVE THE UNITED STATES ITS FIRST CLAIM TO TEXAS AS A PART OF THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE AMERICA OWES HIM AN ENDURING MEMORY FOR IN THIS MASCULINE MOURES SHE SEES THE PIONEER, WHO GUIDED HER TO THE POSSESSION OF HER RICHEST HERITAGE. FRANCES PARK - Indianola was devoid of any soul, I really enjoyed being surrounded by nothing but the windy breeze!

Get back on topic you lot!!!!!! I only bought the dammed thing because Guzzi has not been building anything I fancied since the Griso. I briefly thought about building a Guareschi but the hassle expense and time I take to do anything would've ended up with me being too old to ride by the time I finished

I got one for my bike. Scud kindly tested it for me on his Scura before he mailed it to me. It seems that my bike runs much cooler oil temp than Scud's. Probably because my ECU is running richer than his, or that I am too easy on the throttle. Perhaps I should just go faster. "Honest Officer, I'm just getting my oil temp up to clear the condensation".

I ordered one of these for my V11 Sport, and I'm excited to actually be able to monitor the oil temperature, seeing as Guzzi thought such info irrelevant to the rider. The online shop sent me the one with the black gauge face instead of the white gauge face one I actually ordered. Currently waiting for them to respond so I can get it swapped. I'd like the instrument cluster white gauges to match the temp gauge face... details are important to me. Don't want my baby overheating, now...

Can't wait to hear the result from the first one to try Meinolf's new BIN 103., is that a new BIN available, or wasn't it all finisged yet ? He can borrow my Greenie for testing Excuse my lack of computer understanding. I have Meinolf's bin 93.6 in my Greenie and my Rosso C. RC is running very well, a tiny sneeze now and then, even better in 12 - 17c. She is running a little on the rich side, leaving black marks of unburned fuel on my L plate. She had a PC III when I got her. My Greenie perfect idling, terrible hic up 2600 - 3200rpm = to much chlutch to smoothen things out in the neigbourhood, but perfect all the way up. Has a more open ex system than my RC. I'm still waiting for Marius a good tuner to give here a little fuel help in that area. Is it possible using Guzzi Diag giving her some extra fuel in that area ? Imbesil asking here. And it makes me wondering how many of the V11 around are still hiccing ? My Greenie was running good when I got her with a PC III. Season soon over up here, BUT did put quite a few km on my V11's so Cheers Tom.

It's just a variable throttle stop. No mixture influence. Ciao

No, I am your father.

I like BMW bikes, pre-'96, before they started building machines impossible to service, and not designed to last. It won't hurt my V11 to have an oil temp gauge. I like gauges.

BMW Motorrad really, really hates their owners.

On another note seeing I'm on a roll. Just acquired a Euro 4 BMW R9T, now that's different, BMW give you a little Yellow Triangle light, and a cute little engine outline with an explanation mark in the LCD. That covers everything from complete loss of oil pressure to a sticky exhaust flapper valve. You don't know until you hook up their diagnostic tool and a laptop or phone, to find out the code. I need to find somewhere I can place a gauge or aux switch minimum. Bee-emm guys seem to think that the bike will be fine in limp mode.................with no oil pressure............good fekin grief!!!

I keep thinking about the old Brit bikes with the voltmeter built into the headlight cone...

04 Ballabio European models come with the O2 sensor 15RC ECU (I’m not sure about US version). Check if yours does - anyway O2 sensors are a consumable item & the factory installed units were flawed (slow) - so change out & upgrade to the quicker Bosch LSH24 sensor. Anyone who still has the original factory O2 sensor should change it. The 15RC will adapt & it’ll run like butter smoother than you’ve ever experienced.

And more ominous and worrying! With a volt meter, your entire ride can be tainted by worry over the electrics flaming out at any point. However, without a volt meter, you can ride in total bliss until...

Well, Sir, that is right charitable. Truth be known, my wiring harness(es) should be considered "Experimental and Investigational."

A volt meter would be more useful.

I've got a similar Ancel unit and it seems to work well. Do check that the crocodile clips are firmly attached to the Odyssey battery terminals/bolts. Maybe it's a 'one off', but I was getting varied condition info. when I connected to the bolt heads. Maybe the threads of the terminals are 'generous', but the best contact is on the threads of the bolt, with the clips 'pulling' on the bolts. I was almost convinced that my pc545 was on the way out until I spotted this. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Its an Ancel BA301. Seems comprehensive and they do software updates apparently. If you select Motorcycle battery it lists a ton of different types by p/n but the Odyssey doesn't come up so I just selected Car battery and manually entered the type and CCA. I've had a few car batteries fail over the years the last one 18 months ago fortunately in the driveway. When this happens the modern electronics go mental and there isn't any warning like the old days when as the battery aged you got slower cranking etc which gave you some warning. Now they just work until they don't, so I decided to get one of these and monitor battery condition in my vehicles and change them before they drop their bundle. Voltage checks alone aren't an accurate indication of battery health. Ciao

I know the feeling of covered in canvas. at least yer not blue

Meinolf walked back from these clearance numbers to .2/.15 and suggested he'd never used .3. I think it was an honest error on his part and a mix up as I also recall him suggesting .3 and I even went back to research the .3 recommendation and found he had. I remember questioning it at the time from a mechanical perspective. He also normally quotes the exhaust/inlet as well as opposed to the inlet/exhaust as we normally do. maybe that's a language thing, not sure. Maybe he'll be along and clarify although I'm almost 100% sure he already has in the not to distant past. Quite frankly to anyone out there I'd just load his map with the current settings and see how it is. It's not like it's going to cause any problems it just may not be optimal at the bottom of the mapping. You could just make sure the TPS is right as thats the most important. Load the map and see how it is and if it's a major improvement which I suspect it will be then consider the air screw and idle adjustment settings and balance. Ciao

I did do all the suggested adjustments given in https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21701-ecu-bin-maps/&do=findComment&comment=233775 The first thing I noticed was the engine would start and idle without needing to touch the throttle. No more waking the neighbors with a fistful of noise before the oil pressure got up. No sorry Docc, I meant to say the basic tuneup is excellent advice, but I used the Meinolf settings if different. Closed screws, 0.3mm clearances, 0.157TPS volts, idle stops used on both sides to balance & set idle speed.