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Put on some Breva valve covers, I think it tidies up the spark plugs and leads. I stripped them and used a buffing wheel to brush the aluminium. That paint was surprisingly stubborn!

At least carbon fibre has a few practice functions like reduced weight and higher strength so you don't get cracking of the front guard and side covers around the mounting holes. TPMS I can see a point to as a safety item with the bonus of a clock. Engine oil temp while I'm having a coffee! I'm more interested in the temperature of the coffee. Ciao

Back in the day, The Kid, being an aircraft mechanic, thought it would be nice to know the oil temp on his (now Low's) Greenie. So, he called up Gordon at MG Cycle. Gordon said, "Sure, I'll sell you one, but what good will it do for you? You *know* you won't like what you see sometimes, and then what are you going to do about it? The Kid said, "Ok, never mind.." Gotta love Gordon and Cheesehead..

On my recently installed TPMS (Steel Mate) on my Norge, it shows me the temperature on my tires, in addition to tire pressure and a clock. I've never seen or measured the temperature before on the tires, but now have a baseline, and interestingly enough, under normal riding conditions, I can see that the rear tire runs 10C hotter than the front. Now...the actual data on the temp isn't really useful, but over time, as a reference, it will give me a point of reference as to what's normal. I see the same on the oil dipstick, some may see it as a farkle/gimmick...great...don't buy it. I think it's an elegant piece of hardware, and it's sort of cool (well, hot really) to see the temp while stopped at a coffee break, just as a point of reference. Is it really necessary...not at all, but then again, is carbon fiber necessary, no...does it look good, yes!

MG Cycle. They are sending me the correct one, and I'm shipping back the wrong one. So far, they have been great! As far as I know, it just screws into the sump...

I had to do a double take on that. I've got the original album, "Infidels" on vinyl. I haven't listened to it for years. But it was my favorite Dylan since the '70s until "Modern Times" came out. There are several old records I'd like to digitize (like Keith Jarrett's "Back Hand" and a live "VSOP".) Some (like those) aren't available digitally and others, like "Infidels", I'm too cheap to re-buy. Anyway, this is what Mr Google says about the video The newly released, never-before-seen video of “Don’t Fall Apart On Me Tonight (Version 2)” features guitarists Mark Knopfler and Mick Taylor, drummer Sly Dunbar, bassist Robbie Shakespeare and keyboardist Alan Clark.

Ohai, For you guys in the Spineraid garage, the terminals I found and cleaned were not the run switch, they are the brake light switch wires. I went for a ride of about an hour and a half, and the intermittent run fail appeared right at the end of the ride, though very mildly. I'll have the tank off today to investigate all the connections and connectors as well as the relay connections and ignition switch and ECU connections.

At times, my keen sense of wit has a 3000 RPM hiccup. True life file: Had I known that a crankshaft roller bearing on my 305cc Yamaha was about to fuse itself at 110 clicks on the motorway, I'd have had an absolutely nervous ride. As it was, I experienced only a few brief moments of stark terror, left hand clamping clutch lever to bar whilst I weaved between faster traffic toward the roadside. To this day, I still cover the clutch lever as I ride.

"Sheppies" aside (what an interesting aside - heh: play on words! ), I discovered a bit of a "reset" trying for the 200.000 kays mark. I've been using the common 0.62 conversion factor (124,000 miles = 200.000 km). Creeping up on the mark got me thinking, in my helmet, that 0.62 is likely an approximation. Sure enough, the most accurate conversion factor is 0.621371 . No big deal over a couple hundred miles/km, but over 200.000 kays? That's an additional 274.2 miles. Simply means more riding to get there, so - good problem to have! Still looking to make the mark during this year of Moto Guzzi's Centenary . . .

From my experiments with oil on the Sporti and the HiCam, my opinions, for all that's worth, is with a 2v/v Guzz you've little to worry about. Oil pressure and temp on my bikes are stable and of little concern. I've got a dipstick temp thingy and a pressure gauge on all the bikes. I run a 15/50 full synth on all these engines Sporti runs a bit hotter than my LM 1000 engine, which has a Vee sump and is stupidly well behaved and tends to run on the cold side. Sporti a bit hotter nearer 100C in 20C ambients and the pressure is rock steady. My HiCam C kitted bike is a completely different kettle of fish. It runs around 60ish psi in free air, over 40mph, and temp approx 105, the minute I hit traffic it rockets with corresponding drop in pressure. Seen 130C sump temps, God knows what the heads are at. When you reach there oil pressure at idle is through the floor, around 8psi or less and my pressure light will come on, time to pull over and wait. I advocated the dipsticks temps a long time back and was subject to some ridicule, not on here I may add. It depends on your philosophy towards engines, being a test engineer in another life, I always like to have data if I can get it. @po18guy jokes about ignorance being bliss but honestly I've came across people who really don't want to know. Again not on here, somebody advocated that pressure and temp gauges are useless because Guzzi didn't give you recommendations on their limits. I just find that attitude astonishing, but we're all different. As far as voltmeters I just run one of these little LED lights that changes colour when Voltage rises or falls between given thresholds. I'd rather have meter but not enough room and the light is enough to let me know I'd better get home or find somewhere to stop the bike and get a bus or train home. Better than getting stranded miles from anywhere on a dodgy road.

Hell, I had a 441 BSA dug into the axle in Michigan. I got off, left it running in gear. Every time it fired, the rear wheel made about a half turn.. The mantra, "When in doubt, gas it" counts double in the sand hills of Michigan..

This disparity would make me want to increase the rear tire pressure (within reason) and monitor the change in temperature. On the contrary, perhaps the front pressure is too high and should be brought down a notch. A little of each? Or just of no practical consequence at all?

Cars are a different topic and have different criteria. I don't understand why people apply car logic to motorcycles. Nothing worse than a "car guy" that takes up riding as his new hobby and then try's to translate "car world" stuff to the motorcycle world. Not saying this is the case here but "car guys" often just don't get it at all. Can take years to educate them and some just never get it. A work colleague years ago was building some sort of track car and mentioned he was fitting a water pressure gauge to it! What the hell for? So he could tell if he got a water leak while on the track! The logic escapes me. If you know how a water temp gauge works you'll know if you have a water leak. Ciao

Now, really, when was the last time an oil cooler got bashed in a mall parking lot or at the coffee shop?

Good one Phil...I'm going to use that the next time. Make my macchiato doppio 20C cooler than my oil temp - now if the barista can make that happen, I'll tip double! I have an oil pressure and oil temp gauge on my 911, both are useful to know and monitor and glance at (particularly before driving it hard). Admittedly I can't see the oil temp gauge on the Scura, maybe I could find a way to wire up a sensor to send me the info to the dash (just kidding!!). At any rate, the metal gauge looks a hell of a lot nicer than the bland black plastic dipstick...

I guess I'm more a wannabe engineer. *adjusts glasses*

Totally agree. While parked, grabbing a sandwich and looking over my V11, I can glance and see how my oil is doing. If it is abnormally high, I can be aware and avoid catastrophe...not likely, I know...but I like to be mechanically sympathetic to my machines. Plus, like carbon fiber on a Scura...I think it looks the business. Just a little something "nice" to have.

So pretty. I prefer seeing the spark plug wires, but those look so good. I think the real star of the show is those headers. Yowza! Nice machine, Grim!

Where did you order from? I'm curious how it fastens. Any other info/reviews out there?

Mick Taylor on Guitar As well...I like the Bass players ?playing as well.

You overestimate my skills and abilities John!

Told you we're all different If I had the tools and skills of Phil (or Pete) I wouldn't need fripperies and baubles as my engines would run as intended However being in the sausage fingers queue when the Almighty was handing out intelligence, I'm stuck with gauges.

Yeah, well, I've had lots of Indian, Pakistani and Bangladeshi pals over the years and most of them loved tat like that. Thing is with at least a few of them I knew that they were saying shit to wind me up. A lot of the time they knew I knew that they knew I was being wound up. It's a very sub-continental form of humour and they all love sticking it to the 'Old Colonialists'. @#!#$# 'em! Air temperature sensor foolers are the modern day equivalent of wearing a shrunken head fetish around your neck to ward off devils. Just slightly less smelly and likely to give you a disease. I break wind, playfully, in their general direction! Anyway, I thought the mapping was pretty good straight out of the box? Or is this just one of those things that people do to say FU to 'The Government' and anti pollution laws?

Ha, thats the least of it Pete. How about leather mini saddlebags to replace the side covers or a miniature brass old style wooden wheeled artillery piece bolted to the front of the front mudguard. Why? well because RE's old motto was "built like a gun". Everyone over there seems to think all this is great stuff. I'm just throwing up in my mouth. Oh btw, big believers in the piggy back air temp sensor modifier for the EFI tuning. Ciao

Yes I understand. I apply the opposite logic when I buy something, I'm a harsh marker and if it turns out to be a "less than optimal purchase decision" I'll cleanse my soul about it on the internet and let others know. In the car forum world I learned about confirmation bias when I bought a few "must have because the std item is shit" accessories and found when I actually took delivery of the car that the std items were quite acceptable. Not only did they overstate the usefulness of the accessory part they also trashed the OEM. Resold a few items as they just weren't necessary. The car world is quite rife with silliness, such as anything Billet aluminium is automatically better than the std plastic or steel item. Until the Billet item starts to degrade and fail of course and even then the purchasers will continue to delude themselves about it even when it's pointed out the std OEM item lasts for years and gives no problems. Visit the Royal Enfield forum and witness the stuff those guys bolt onto their bikes. Leather laced handlebar grip covers with 1 foot long dangly bits on the end and that's just the low end of the scale. Scary. Ciao

I would generally agree with you. But since I spent money on it, I am suffering from confirmation bias. Subconsciously, I would rather find a reason that my past decision was good than admit that I wasted money on something useless. Of course, if it is subconscious, one has wonder how I could write such a thing. And Graceland... it would be a very long and slippery slope before I found myself there.

" IPA time "

I fitted a "cool" alloy dipstick to the Sport for a while. It wasn't any easier to read the oil level and required a hex drive to remove and replace. I went back to the factory stick. No, it ain't cool. I tried to be cool once and my pants caught on fire.

Today, I tested; The old starter, when hit with the battery, actually turned- and intermittently spun, slowed, stopped, shook loose and turned again. I performed amp draw (best I could holding the meter and screwdriver) I used a good automotive battery on the old starter, so it may deliver more peak amps than the bike's Odyssey. That said, test results peak observed amp draw; New starter, 54a to start, ~40a turning the motor Old starter; 80a min turning, 394a siezed. I did not miss the decimal point.

Wot? No, mine looked like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJJSayaN0SU

I got an oil temp gauge for my Scura because it looks cool. I can't read it while riding, and I never even think about it anymore, except when I check the oil - and I do that when it's cold. But hey, it still looks cool.

p6x, No problem! Appreciate your effort! It’s just such a cool tin. I’m curious to try the sardines after reading about the place. The next time I’m in that part of the world I would visit. Love those those things. They’re a super food! I always feel great after I eat sardines.

Hi, allow me to step in and add some comments. If I mentioned a valve play of 0,3mm for the V11 camshaft, then I made a mistake. The V11 camshaft is well designed and doesn't need any additional play to overcome (too) long slopes. The 0,3mm are recommended for all OEM pre-CARC camshafts, as they have a tremendously long slope. As a result the valves are slightly open for more than 100° CW before the actual opening cycle, with the accompanying loss of pressure in the combustion chamber and increased valve temperature for lack of cooling time with the valves connecting to the seat. My recommended settings for the bypass screws and CO trim are only intended to simplify the usage of the BIN with different engines than mine. CO trim can be set accurately, but many seem to have problems adjusting it with GuzziDiag while the engine is running. I always choose the easier path of directly modifying the CO trim values in the EEPROM. The bypass screws are more problematical, as my 1/2 turn opening might be your 1/2+1/16 turn opening. They are not graduated. The impact of CO trim (+/- fuel) and bypass (+/- air) is most pronounced a low TPS settings. So the idea is to avoid this potential pitfall, especially the potential mis-syncing of both cylinders. My BIN is based on AFR measurements and my targeted AFR targets for the respective breakpoints. (Btw, I've revisited the 15M and to a lesser degree the 15RC code and found that the code contains a calculation which causes CO trim to taper off and disappear at 3000rpm) Some may remember that the measuring and logging on the V11 was done with highly dissatisfying equipment form Innovate. I eventually switched to Zeitronix, ZT2 and 3, which are much better, for my efforts with the Jackal and Norge. As this is mostly finished I moved the equipment to the V11 and started re-measuring it. The result is here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nIzV4LkFXJUyDMalLagnWb6c9I_0R0Bt/view?usp=sharing Changes versus the 93_6 BIN are fuel values (improved AFR synchronicity between the cylinders) and changed ignition values (the engine runs less harshly in the 4-5k rpm/~15-30° TPS area. I will continue to work on the ignition, but since I have no means of measuring the effect except for my seat-of-pants, this is the area where the biggest remaining improvements are hidden. I've also noticed that, after re-working the butterfly valves and the shafts, there's an much larger than expected discrepancy between fuel values over the first two TPS breakpoint columns. As I intend to open the engine anyway to inspect the valves, I'll revisit the throttle bodies as well. This is mostly a cosmetic issue, the bike runs splendidly. But first the rebuild of the Mille GT (change to a BMW K100 fork with 41,3mm diameter instead of 35mm, new camshaft, improving the valve timing, ....) and the SPIII rebuild after I was crashed by a young Italian lady in the hills above Genua have to be finished. Cheers Meinolf

No, I am your father.

Get back on topic you lot!!!!!! I only bought the dammed thing because Guzzi has not been building anything I fancied since the Griso. I briefly thought about building a Guareschi but the hassle expense and time I take to do anything would've ended up with me being too old to ride by the time I finished

I keep thinking about the old Brit bikes with the voltmeter built into the headlight cone...

I got one for my bike. Scud kindly tested it for me on his Scura before he mailed it to me. It seems that my bike runs much cooler oil temp than Scud's. Probably because my ECU is running richer than his, or that I am too easy on the throttle. Perhaps I should just go faster. "Honest Officer, I'm just getting my oil temp up to clear the condensation".

True but I'd rather know if my battery is charging over the oil temp, when is the last time you heard of a Guzzi with too hot oil?

And more ominous and worrying! With a volt meter, your entire ride can be tainted by worry over the electrics flaming out at any point. However, without a volt meter, you can ride in total bliss until...

Well, Sir, that is right charitable. Truth be known, my wiring harness(es) should be considered "Experimental and Investigational."

A volt meter would be more useful.

What a session! That must be a who's-who of musicians all around. I spy Mark Knopfler, for one . . .