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John asked me to look in on this thread, I used to know quite a bit about these systems. Firstly the alternator wires can be a problem, they snap off where they solder to the coils. When this happened to mine the copper was so corroded it was not possible to re-solder them so time for some new wires, its quite easy to solder the new copper to the coils. The bullet connectors where the regulator plugs into the stator leads often overheat, if this is a problem just chop the bullet connectors off and join to the alternator with crimp links or a solder joint. Grounding the regulator is critical, all the charging current travels back from the chassis to the regulator case so it can return to the alternator through the other yellow wire. The factory supply a small black wire from the case all the way to battery negative but this is far too small for the current involved. Run a short wire from the regulator case to a timing cover screw, the engine and battery main ground are massive compared to the tiny black wire. The regulator has a rectifier set up as a bridge, 2 diodes and 2 Silicon Controlled Rectifiers. The rectifiers sometimes go open circuit, this situation is very easy to set for if you have a meter with the diode test function, The diodes are connected from each yellow wire to the red wire, it should show about 0.5 Volt, since the diodes are between each yellow wire and the red pair its possible to add a diode on the outside. The way they measure the battery Voltage is very poor, it taps off the feed to the headlight after the headlight relay and in some cases a normally closed contact of the start relay. The relay contact and socket resistance changes with time, the Voltage drop can be anything from 0.6 to 1 Volt, I have a theory that the reference voltage drop approaches 1 Voltmeaning the battery Voltage has to be pushed above 15 to supply the regulator reference, this high Voltage demands more current which overheats the diodes unit the leads melt off. A warning sign can be the headlight out or the tachometer not working, chances are the battery is not charging and of course the charge light also fed from the headlight relay won't be working either fooling you into thinking everything is ok. I often thought of getting the Voltage reference from a different source downstream of the ignition switch, off one of the ECU relays or from a dedicated relay direct from the battery. This would give the regulator a lower Voltage reference because it expects a drop through the relay but it could easily be compensated for with some resistance ora diode in series. I struggled with this flakey Voltage reference for years then I upgraded to a permanently connected regulator from Electrosport, there was one minor drawback a parasitic drain on the battery, I used to disconnect the regulator over the winter but if you don't remember to re-connect it next thing you know the bike dies with a flat battery. Electrosport recommend their ESR515, I dont agree, it still relies on the flakey Voltage reference and a good ground connection. I used the ESR510 it is wired direct to the battery and it has a dedicated ground wire I don't think it supports the charge light. Instead of a charge light I recommend just purchase a battery Voltmeter for ~ $15 and hook it downstream of the ignition switch this will leave you in no doubt. https://www.amazon.com/12V-Voltmeter-Color-Digital-Display/dp/B07HHTZ1L5/ref=sr_1_46?dchild=1&keywords=12+volt+battery+meter&qid=1633586264&sr=8-46

Wow, Kiwi_Roy, exhaustive. I replaced the regulator after navigating through the V11lemans Tutorial Committee's advice and my bike is on the road and only needed human power for propulsion once since, a few days ago, when I ran it out of fuel. It has trained me well in the art pushing it around. I'm beginning to believe it learned a few tricks in an S & M dungeon and I'm its rube. I discovered a fried black wire in the harness under the seat a while back and appealed to the collective wisdom implicit here and ran a more robust wire from the regulator to ground. The electrical system seemed good enough to earn a grade of D, graded on a curve, in a class filled with Moto Guzzi addicts; until the regulator quit, was replaced and here I am still crying into my beer to anyone who'll listen. But it runs, only if I give it a drink of gasoline, but it is running. Almost overwhelming, the well written detail in your post. I do have a battery drain, it would be nice if I could vanquish it. I will cajole a friend who's education exceeds my kindergarten diploma in electrical/electronic summer camp to read over my shoulder and parse what you're recommending. He'll sketch a few illustrations in cartoon form and I'll get it. Thank you.

I remember seeing the manual showing a similar rope start process for a Bristol 170 years ago. It described canvas prop tip socks on a rope to be connected to a Land Rover. The engine is a 2000 hp Bristol Hercules 734 high compression sleeve valve radial engine, and the chances of something going wrong must be high. Here is a normal (ish) start for that engine http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXDw_670JJk The Land Rover was probably specified because: a. it is a British vehicle for a British plane, and b. if the rope tangles in the prop, the aluminum Land Rover body wouldn't damage the prop so much as it gets reeled in. Here is a video of an Embraer 202 started by a pull rope. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ecosb5mSDwo

"I am not afraid of greasing the front U-joint on my RedFrame Sport, Master Yoda."

I found a company that had them in stock, same part, so I purchased them. https://www.todaycomponents.com/relay/omron-g8he-1c7t-r-dc12-relay.html

These are legit, I did the research and bought them myself. Was considering buying another batch to store and toss out all the used spares I have.

I like the idea of getting a proper diagnostic before an intervention. In the case of a V11, the piecemeal approach is the only one available at this time, for motorbikes who are no longer in production. The evolution of electronics have now gone to the point where equipment can alert the user of a malfunction, even ahead of time, and in some cases, identify the exact component that needs to be calibrated or replaced. I am not necessarily referring to the automotive industry. The trial and error has been the method of choice for decades before the Predictive Maintenance replaced it. We had to use oscilloscopes to monitor analogical signals, and rely upon our skills to pick the module that did not perform as expected. Verify the components, find the culprit, and verify the problem is no longer there. Sometimes, there were no clear cut answer. So we had to change components and test again, and repeat. Back to V11, there are a series of checks and tune ups that have been proposed elsewhere in the forum, and it is up to the individual to acquire the necessary tools, or to find a workshop to delegate the task. I have purchased all the equipment, but before I start intervening, I am in the testing phase. I am making sure the problem can be reproduced, and how and when it happens. That, and taking stoke of the other owner's experience as reported in the various forums. I wish it was straight forward, but it never is. I may live with the V11's coughing every now and then, or I will try to get it better. But I will proceed by steps.

I bought a pair of these. And it's 'RACING CABLE"! The CR6 is one meter long. There is also a CR4 at 50cm, but that would be too short. https://www.ebay.com/itm/273921096472?epid=171310303&hash=item3fc6f83b18:g:IIUAAOSwQ8xdI574

Epic thread drift. I promise to report myself to myself. No, really, the front UNI is >approachable< on an early RedFrame. It is. It is.

"I'm not afraid . . ." (Mess with you, Yoda does.)

Hi guys, Ever since I got my 2013 8V Stelvio last year it has had a tendency to cough on overrun and was a lumpy idle. I changed the map to one from Beetle and that improved it and smoothed out the performance overall, and at the same time I re-set the low speed balance as per the instructions etc., but it still does it and while it will idle when cold, once it gets hot, or idles for a while, (around 1100 revs) it tends to try to drop a cylinder, so I have to keep a hand on the throttle at the stop signs and goose it occasionally. I read on another site about someone having a problem on a 1400 Cal., with too much oil in the crankcase leading to oil in the air box and ultimately on the Lambda sensor on a 1400. Pete R. had warned me to only fill the crank to ⅓ of the dipstick and I did that, but when I checked in the airbox, there was a bit of creme in the right hand cylinder intake trumpet, but minimal oil in the box itself. None of this is a major problem, but I would like to cure the problem, rather than simply turning up the slow running and ignoring the minor amounts of spitting on over run. So first off where is the lambda sensor on this bike and how do I clean it and is this a likely culprit? Otherwise what else should I be looking at? Thanks in advance. LangleyMalc

And the extra blade will do nothing , because there is no terminal in the other positions , You could run 5 pin relays in all positions and be happy .

I saw you noted the wider and narrower blade sizes. The narrower blades concerned me initially, but I have found that either the narrow or wide blades work equally well in the V11. There are only the two sizes (of blades), and either will fit.

Good thing about the V11 relay blocks, 5-terminal (Form C) relays fit in every position and either the wide blade or narrow blade relays work equally well. The High Current OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 Relays have the amperage rating (on both the normally open and normally closed contacts) to handle the V11's requirements.

Look at the data sheet from Omron: "R" stands for "Surge Suppressor". It is a built in resistor which is described at the line: coil rating: surge suppressor resistance.1/2 watt 680 ohms. I bet they updated the surge suppressor specs at some point and it became R1. @Pressureangle confirmed he installed an R1 on his bike with no trouble. When I did my search (I am not using Google by the way), the OMRON G8HE-1CT7T-R1-DC12 popped all the time. It seems it is easier to find, and may confirm it is a later spec. And before you ask: This is an SPDT relay type that stands for Single Pole Double Throw. IN the G8HE line there is also another type named SPST for Single Pole Single Throw.

I believe MG Cycle has relays but not positive if they are the ones you need

If this doesn't suit the bill, seller gives the Mopar part# for your local jeep dealer. https://www.ebay.com/itm/332626544016 Paul B

I'll do my best, but they usually jam the mimeograph machine. They say I should be more careful with my graham crackers and milk. I think they're just lazy and don't want to crank the thing.

Ha. Probably sorted - or simply got fed up with try this try that confetti approach to a remedy. Whenever remedies appear like minestrone soup - it’s time to simply stop - first, do no harm. Just attempting any fingers crossed fix in lieu a proper diagnosis first - is like a blind man in a dark room looking for a black cat that isn’t there. Frustrating.

So what ended up happening?

There is this: https://www.harpermoto.com/spark-plug-wire-01718330.html Whether this is actually available? Call Curtis on the phone and ask.

From the Parts Catalog, here is the Moto Guzzi part number for the early Sport, red, "HT wire": GU01718330

You mentioned installing a Beetle map, iirc all of his maps have the lambda turned off, so I don't think that should be an issue. Have you done a basic tuneup ie, valves, tps, balance and trim? I know some of the CARC bikes were known to have problematic oem plug wires/caps, mainly from owners pulling on the caps rather than prying them up gently, you may want to verify if that's a known issue with your Stelvio. That's all I've got, fwiw good luck

Thanks Docc! I do drop by time to time just to kick the tires, many of the log on names do bring back great memories. If my knees, wrist and shoulders were good, I'd still be on a Spine Framed Guzzi! Oh and I finally cleaned out my message box, all 20 years worth... Mike

Docc is correct. The O-ring groove you refer to is between the end of the threads and the cap. Once installed it takes on the angular shape of the chamfer on the crankcase. Paul B