Leaderboard

Even with knowing about the extra 274 miles to make a true and proper 200.000 km, it was cool to see this on the odometer today.

+1 that the resistor caps are 5kΩ. When y'all buy plug caps (and plugs), I'd suggest getting a couple extra of each and stow them in the monkey paw trap. Even a light tip over can damage the cap and plug. If they are onboard, you (or one of your unfortunate buds) will not be stranded by such simple (and vulnerable) parts that can be easily on hand.

Perhaps this will work if you can put up with my waffling for twenty minutes? https://youtu.be/BDshMp-bM_0

Halftime: "The Music of Rush" - Ohio State vs. Maryland, 10/9/21 1) 0:30 Spirit of the Radio 2) 2:35 - Limelight 3) 4:10 - Closer to the Heart 4) 5:02 - Red Barchetta 5) 5:22 - Fly By Night 6) 5:34 - YYZ / Drum Solo 7) 6:45 - Tom Sawyer

Probably the ground to the ECU, This will fry pretty quick if you try disconnecting the battery terminals in the wrong order then accidental let your wrench touch the ECU Always disconnect the negative terminal first, reconnect it last that way there is no return path to fry little wires,

Yes docc I've been in the position of riding to the next town auto parts store to buy another plug for a friends Guzzi after a crash. Ciao

Thanks for this Peter. It will likely be later in the month before I get around to doing this and I have to nail my grandson for his older windows computer to run Guzzi Diag! We are now solidly into Autumn, but for your delectation I would have included a picture of the White Pig (Cal 1400 bagger) on a run up to Whistler in the Coast mountains today; but like you I could not get it to reduce below 200K! Weather was spectacular and worth the trip, particularly as this will be towards the end of the riding season with snow on the hills. Ill keep you posted on the Stelvio and follow the instructions to the letter. Regards Malcolm

The advantage of non-resister wires is that you can mess with those irritating thumpin' car stereos in traffic.

I have ordered five from a seller who promised his R1s were OMRON original. Once they get to me, I will take pictures and post them here.

Tuning sequence for a W5AM is ridiculously simple. Connect manometer and Guzzidiag, (Or whatever diagnostic tooling you use.) After you have set the valve lash to 4thou inlet and 6thou exhaust warm the engine up to >60*C and close both air bleeds. Hold the throttle open so the engine runs at 3,500-4,000 rpm and using the screw on the bell crank on the LH throttlebody balance the manifold depression at 'High Speed'. Once done let the throttle snap shut. Kill the engine with the kill switch and recalibrate the TPS and clear the self learning parameters, (The acquired fuel trims. This is only really necessary if running a closed loop map but just do it anyway.). Restart the motor and whichever side has the higher manifold depression? Open the air bleed on that throttlebody to restore equilibrium. Thats it! That is all there is to tuning a W5AM Guzzi, (Bellagio excepted.). Do NOT try and change the idle speed by messing with the throttle stop screw to close the butterflies of the TB's. The idle speed is hard coded into the map in the ECU and is controlled by an air over idle system with a mechanical air bleed called a stepper motor that stabilises the idle at its 'Target' by adding or subtracting air to influence the idle speed. This is also controlled by the ECU. The 'Target Idle' is adjustable but only within the map using a program like Tunerpro to manipulate it once it has been downloaded from the ECU. Once modified the new map has to be re-uploaded to the ECU. This shouldn't need doing if the bike is mechanically sound and tuned properly. There are few bikes easier to tune than a W5AM Guzzi. It probably takes about the same time as it took me to write this message.

Those are legit. That is probably not a MOPAR number, though. The consensus has been that the number printed below the circuit diagram is probably a production run designation.

Epic thread drift. I promise to report myself to myself. No, really, the front UNI is >approachable< on an early RedFrame. It is. It is.

"I'm not afraid . . ." (Mess with you, Yoda does.)

Funky with you, your Sport will be.