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Hmm, actually, if I understand correctly: V11 Relay Position #5 (Fuel Injection/Ignition) is the most demanding, High Current position (N.O.). The Position #1 (Start Relay) is most compromised in the N.C. (weak) contact state in the early V11 wiring configuration. Later V11 wiring stressed the Ignition Switch more. I realize the "Best Relay" thread is very long and starts with only a question, but the process of discovery was most revealing . . .

Phil, slowly on the way having soon a capable guy, ( I call him Epron ) standing behind my neck watching my moves with Guzzidiag. Wish me luck. Sooner the better I start climbing into that world, it will be safer for my license, enjoying to much the area the motor realy feels happy . Yes I want my V charming and V good looking V11's to be even better in the 3000 area. Learned a lot here on the HOLY grail when it comes to V11, so had a sommer with zero elektro issues. This was my 2nd wake up call regarding this subject, so thank you Phil . Cheers Tom

Looks like an early 97ish Sport chassis, exhaust, transmission and most likely the engine with 2002 Lemans body work and forks. Found Waldo!

With Guzzidiag and Tunerpro you can do everything and you don't even need to be smart. Ask me how I know. Ciao

@doc; It does not make sense to me that the relays could not have a continuous carry load. It is not specified in the CIT A6 data sheet, but I expect it is the case. I sent an email to the company in Belgium, with the OMRON G8HE data sheet attached. Let's see if they answer.

Wow. That lady has "been around." 5speed gear box with pre-V11 rear drive. 2002 LeMans body work, but looks like a pre-V11 1100 Sport-i in its bones . . .

I've tried to imagine what was the objective here and origins of say 2 wrecked/failed bikes combined to make 1 rideable one and I'm at a loss. A blown up Centy with a 2 valve engine makes sense if you had a 2 valve engine but if you had a wrecked Lemans then everything damaged in a wreck would be needed to make this bike. Maybe a V11 Lemans with a blown up gearbox transposed to a Centy with a blown up engine, but why bother changing the forks and front end as there no real upgrade there. Maybe a blown Centy engine replaced by a cheap and available 2 valver and the rest is just a collection of ebay bits. It's wrong to advertise it as a Le Mans though. Ciao

Just wanted to give a shout out Thank you for this post, needed it to check my charging system on my newly 03 EV with a glowing charge light. I had great AC voltages through the RPMs, so its regulator time. Placed an order through Electro Sport and it's on it's way!

Here's the reply from CIT relay and switch;

Oh , and I'm not sure if they work , but I have some tube testers .

I have a lot of things my Dad had . amprobe , Simpson 260 , wiggie (?) , things I can't remember . I acquired one of the first simpson DVOMs 6 or 7 fluke 80 series meters ( 2 don't work & I can't bring myself to send them off ) and lots of other stuff .

Fixed an intake leak between the cylinder & the mating manifold piece soon after purchase at 260 miles - that fixed my bikes sneeze 100%. The leak was the result of a factory assembly error. Also, the bolts securing this piece can be longer utilizing MORE of the available threads in the cylinder head. Could be difficult to find, looked fine. Bike went into storage at around 3500 miles , then came back out, a seemingly similar but maybe slightly different symptom I'll characterize as a cough occurred, TPS was at 126MV adjusted to 157 cough gone & smooth running engine. That's my experience fwiw. Great bike, super fun but ergos don't fit me, gonna offer it up soon.

Post some pics w/descriptions please ?

I think these meters are based on a Hall Effect sensor, I will keep my eyes open for one, In the meantime I will measure my DC Amps with a shunt that cost me nothing to make, Guzzi Content. As an apprentice we had a DC clip meter that had an analog scale, it had zero wiring but relied solely on the magnetic field around a wire and had selectable ranges by taking one movement off and substituting a movement with different sensitivity, quite expensive though. You can increase the sensitivity of these meters by putting several turns of wire through the jaws, its a straight relationship between the number of turns and the reading. I like electrical meters and I have a few quite rare ones.

I refuse to do FB. However, it has the wrong rotors and front brake master - crash replacements?

I don't doubt it but getting the TPS out of the RH TB is pretty much impossible without buggering it on the big throttlebodies and you'd also have to remove the stepper if you wanted to plunge-bath the whole lot. I'm too lazy for that.

For cleaning the TB's I just take them off. Yeah, getting the airbox in and out is a bit of a pain but as long as you don't over fill the sump you really don't have to do it very often. When Michael was swapping my gearbox on the Griso for a Sport 1200 one a few weeks ago we pulled the TB's off and they were pretty grubby after 40,000 or so Km and needed doing but this had been exacerbated by me over-filling the big Green Pig for ages. I've got one of those oil temperature gauge dipsticks, (Initially because I was interested in oil temperatures but now I just keep it because I'm a wanker!) and I'd forgotten I'd marked it with a 'Full' mark to be used on the sidestand. I'd been using it with the bike upright which adds about 1/2 a litre more oil that it needs and it was simply pumping it out into the airbox. I've given myself a slap on the wrist and suitably severe talking to, (Made worse by Michael rolling his eyes and not saying anything!) but generally, as long as you don't over fill it I would think every 30,000 km should be fine. Really it's a matter of looking and judging for yourself. If they look grubby? It's probably time! As for cleaning the stepper? I simply get the bike warm and pull the stepper hose off the front left of the airbox, turn on the stepper activation with Guzzidiag and spray carby cleaner down the hose while goosing the throttle! Repeat unti the stepper works properly! Once the TB's are on the bench it's a pretty simple matter to scrub them clean with carby cleaner and a soft brush and gentle cloth. It's actually quite impressive how much nicer the bike will run after this is done and it's given a proper tune-up.

Wow Docc, you are good! I noticed the 5 speed gear box and thought that had to be much work to make the conversion, then realized it was an older Sport running gear.... Wonder what the frame VIN plate shows?

Exactly, not only the relay needs to fit the bill, but it also needs to fit the ISO socket. G8HE Rev A High-Current Micro ISO Automotive Relay G8HE • Available in both SPST and SPDT versions • Miniaturized package (reduced outer length and width) • Designed to meet all standard Mini ISO load requirements • L x W x H = 22.7 x 15.2 x 26.6 mm nominal • ISO footprint with 280-size coil terminals for insertion error-proofing with standard Micro ISO product • Fully automated assembly

Most important to note the rating for "continuous carry current." Form C ("5-pin/blade") is only required for the front relay on our V11 (Position#1/"Start Relay). Form A ("4-pin/blade") can be used in all other positions, but don't count on them as spares to swap into Position#1/Start, if needed. Mark your 4-pin / Form A relays and know they will not function in the Position#1/front/"Form C"/"5-blade"/Start Relay. Yet . . . even if you fit a "good quality" 20 amp/N.O. contacts, of either Form (A or C), to Position#5/the very back/Fuel Injection&Ignition Relay, we are expecting it to handle 22.5 amps (continuous). Pretty sure the "80% Rule" applies? Any electrical (or other) system will fail if continually run at (or over) 100%. My understanding is that any 20 amp circuit should not be expected to carry, reliably, more than 80% of that capacity (16 amps) continuously. Even in household current. True and reliable Micro-ISO relays *honestly* Load Rated (continuous current) at 20 amps for the (weak) N.C. [Normally Closed] contact and 35 amps for the (stronger) N.O. [Normally Open] contact are quite obviously hard to come by in the "Micro-ISO" size our V11 uses.

If I go to sleep with a V11 wiring harness under my pillow, or whatever electrical part imparts the most wisdom, will I wake up as all-knowing as you guys in the morning? Is that what you do? No. I don't think so. I will have awful creases in my cheek and sheets stained from the charcoal-black, burned wires.

Perhaps this will work if you can put up with my waffling for twenty minutes? https://youtu.be/BDshMp-bM_0

Even with knowing about the extra 274 miles to make a true and proper 200.000 km, it was cool to see this on the odometer today.

I seem to have problems getting them to size right Phil, that's the biggest issue. I just get told they're too large, no matter what size I try and make them. Probably just me having a 'Senior's Moment'!