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I think both of you have missed the point with regards to relay temps. Guzzi have designed them as a "seat warmer". A free option not previously advertised but revealed here after 20 years. Ciao

All fine. It is good to remember our friends and say their names. While we have two other relay threads active right now, I felt it was time to bump this one as the heat measurements support the concept that an under rated, poor quality, or otherwise stressed relay is going to be hotter and prone to failure. Plus, these IR temp readers are inexpensive and easy to use.

@docc Interestingly, I got a reply from DigiKey Canada to my query to DigiKey in Belgium. I asked the question in French to DigiKey Belgium and DigiKey Canada replied in French. I had asked the same question I did to CIT Relay and Switch; -what would they recommend as a replacement for the "Crème de la Crème" G8HE? They could not come up with anything fit for purpose.

This gorgeous champagne LeMans looks entirely capable of making the next (Eighteenth!) South'n SpineRaid in Tellico Plains, Tennessee, from "Southwest Ohio", @witttom . . . (Weekend After Labor Day/Get There/Bring Tools.)

Make no mistake, the "RedFrame" V11 Sport was/is a real "sporting" Guzzi. So-much-so, that Moto Guzzi very quickly lengthened and braced the frame, offered a fairing, with a wider rear rim/bigger tire, changed the forks, and offered "handlebars" (over the clip-ons). We > RedFrameTrash < are just lucky to land here and soak up the love.

Oh Apologies, I'm sad to hear that @docc

@brlawson I think you'll find the Panasonic are rated at 20A continuous and 35A switching. So they're not as good as the Omrons. They are very good relays though and I've used them in the past and they haven't failed, but I'd still prefer to have the Omrons. You need to check the continuous rating not the switching load John

My "sedate" black frame burgundy has the vibey clip-on's , and I even crank up the steering damper at higher freeway speeds. I guess I'm becoming the old fart "poser" ( until I get to roads I know)...😅

I was wondering about the current draws Roy posted a while back in the link in one of doccs posts and decided to bench test some of my parts. Roys original figures in black and mine in Red Relay No 5 ECU Power relay The fuel pump draws about 4.5 amps unless the fuel filters blocked where it can draw about 9...... I got 1.8 amps unloaded then it started making noises because it was running dry and went to 3.5. Gave it a squirt of WD40 in the inlet and back to 1.85. Each injector will draw 1 amp. Ran an injector continuously and 0.1 amps draw. Each coil will draw 17 Amps. Only had a "Dual HT output" coil on hand from an MV Agusta and it was 15 amps. That all adds up to 22.5 Amps My total 17 amps with an unloaded pump and I'd imagine around 19 loaded. Don't know what all this means but that's the bench figures. Maybe the relay isn't under quite as much load as we think? Ciao

Well I finally got Guzzidiag to load and recognise the ports on the old Windows computer. Then got hooked up and checked the TPS - it was at 4.6 deg. Then checked all the screws on the throttle bodies and the ends of the linkages etc and all the painted ones were still painted and intact with the exception of the high speed adjust screw on the linkage on the left body and the two air bleeds. After this I reset the TPS and it went to 4.8 and I cleared the learning parameters. To make it easier to get at the left hand bleed screw, I took off the starter motor cover. Needless to say one of the little dome head Allen screws socket stripped, so I had to use a stud removing socket to get it out, but after that no problem. Must have been done up by Guy the Gorilla. I then checked the air bleed screws with a view to shutting them. Both were open to some degree, so I closed both. That was tricker than it should be because of the location. Then hooked up my ancient mercury powered Motion Pro vacuum gauges and after the first run, remembered to move the breather hose on the back of the motion Pro to the open position; thus improving the stability and accuracy by a significant degree! Ran the bike up to 3500-4000 rpm and held it there at a reasonably constant 3800 speed, with a G clamp on the throttle and then balanced off the mercury columns using the speed adjust screw. Removed the G clamp and let the throttle snap back. TPS was now 5.2 and then re-sett the TPS again (back to 4.8)and cleared the learning parameters. Finally, adjusted the slow running balance using the air screw on the right hand carb as it was higher. On the tick-over part of this the mercury was bouncing about a bit, but both appeared to be level, or operating in the same range, so I called it a day. End result is that the tick over is around 1200 and not too lumpy. (It got smoother once I took off the carb sticks and re-connected the vacuums.) Cant tell about the over run as it was P-ssing down outside the garage so that will have to wait for another day. All in all a successful mission and I now understand how the throttle bodies work and the logic behind the tunic sequence. One question - If the stepper motor basically controls the slow running sequence via the computer, is it not possible that the pipework, or the stepper motor gets full of sh1t and so needs occasional cleaning? (Not letting go of this one quite yet!) Many thanks for the help and instruction Pete, - Anyway; I enjoyed it! Malcolm.

Moto Guzzi seat warmers my well-digger's ass!

I'll have a set (5) of the CTI with 1.2 watt coils from DigiKeyUS fairly soon, I hope. They do not have a minimum order and the shipping (US Postal Service) was $4.95US. So, $17US for 5 relays. I'll cut one open and compare to the unobtanium OMRON G8HE internals. I don't have the capabilities that Ryland did to test "bounce" and record data points with an oscilloscope, but will do what inspection, observation, and measuring that can be done. I have examined the Data Sheets of Panasonic, GEI, CTI, and OMRON relays. They are, unfortunately, not produced to a strict standard. OMRON clearly differentiates between "switching" (inrush?) current and "continuous" current ratings. Others do not make this distinction and their relay rating can appear higher than it deserves ("Switching/Inrush" ratings are always higher than "continuous current" ratings). I can also install the CTI 1.2W in my Sport's most demanding Position#5 and take infrared temperature readings. This method has been very revealing as to how much heat a substandard relay will produce. This along with accurately weighing the relay can be helpful compared with observations previously contributed on the "Best Relay" thread.