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I was having the charge light glowing at me in the lower RPMs, seemed to clear up after the bike warmed up. I also checked the battery voltage with the bike running and it was very close to 16 volts above 4k rpm. I checked the AC voltages and they were great, 22 volts at 1000 rpm, 53 volts at 2500 rpm and 90 volts at 5k rpm. So I placed an order with Electro Sport for the ESR515 regulator, the good news was it only took 1 day to arrive and was free shipping, the bad news is that it wasn't really a plug and play repair. Think Heath Kit for "you as old as me" most likely remember, soldering iron, crimps and solder not included. I have read that the bullet connectors fit loose, mainly on the yellow wire connectors. Well, all of them fit loose cause they use the same bullet connectors. The only one that is tight is the connector that has the male and female ends side by side. The female connector has hard plastic around it which does not allow it to expand so the connector on the harness side will not push in, no matter how hard you try. Yes, I could force something in it to open it up, but the plastic would likely break (It's that hard). So I ended up cutting all the connector ends off the old regulator and splicing them into the new ESR515 regulator. I could of just spliced the new regulator right to the harness but I think it would be a problem on the road if the regulator went out and I had to do a road side repair. The Guzzi connectors are soo much better than the ones on the Electro Sport unit. Their bullet connectors are very thin, easy to spread apart which means easy to compress. There is no way to make a tight fitting connections with these. The Guzzi connectors also push up to one another, with the ESR515, there are gaps showing the bullet connectors slightly, not good! The last thing I'm not thrilled about with the ESR515 is the wire thickness (gauge) on the yellow and white wires, on the Guzzi regulator, they are at least the next wire size up, time will tell if this is a problem, hopefully guzzi was just over kill on their wire size. The good news is that the charging light goes right out when the bike starts and it now charges at 14 volts above idle.

A Guzzi (and non Guzzi) ride out last Sunday. My silver V11 next to the Cali. The days are getting shorter, and fall is starting

I'm a believer in an assembly of the correct parts makes the designated model. I'm not one of the "it must have matching numbers" people so assembling a bike from parts is fine by me it's just in this case being neither fish nor fowl could cause it to have a lesser value which wouldn't be fair to an unwitting buyer. BTW here's my latest "non greenie" addition thanks to KINDOY2. My bike doesn't know what the hell it is.

The later in tank pump tank is a sensible mod and one I wanted to do myself but I found it won't fit a short frame bike without the forks hitting the tank. Others disagreed somehow and reckoned it was "no issue". I never found out how it was "no issue" The advantage of the in tank pump is it's a whole lot neater for the injector hosing and far more "integrated". The downside is the loss of the Chin Pad "character". it's quite a bit longer around 60mm from memory and all forward of the front mount to fill in the extra gap created by the frame extension behind the steering head. I posted images and figure a while back. Ciao

IMO, your LongFrame Sport will look very nice with the long tank.

Ahh, thanks Docc,. I see now from the photo that there is another lead with no plug, this must be the pump wiring.

Installing this on your 2003 Sport? That has the short (chin pad tank) on the LongFrame (IIRC?), so fitment should be fine. On the early, short RedFrame Sport the short tank already can be touched be the forks at lock. Pretty sure the 1999-2001 ShortFrame won't take the long tank without fork contact at lock, but you should be okay. Good question on the wiring and connectors, not just fuel level sensor, though. Your external fuel pump wiring will have to connect to the internal pump of the Long Tank. As well as the fuel routing, as you say. The later long tanks connect with those "Quick Disconnect" (misnomer??) while the earlier hoses have simple hose clamps. Avoid using the throttle rod "tunnel" to route hoses and wiring as the throttle can be fouled and send you halfway to a bad day . . .

The squeamish should avert their eyes!

Good point, Docc..

I'm sure he was, lol. Multi Guzzis assembled in one location Ciao

Having read all the comments above (at least twice), I would comment as follows: The bike is stock, with a colostomy bag and standard exhaust. It does have a washable air filter - I did listen to Peter's comments on that; in my defence it came with it and this is BC and despite the four months of absolutely dry weather for the summer this year, most of the time it rains here! However, I will replace with a paper filter next time I am in the dealer - assuming he doesn't suck his teeth and say "Not a lot of call for that. We'll have to order it in". In that case it will be at least 8 weeks and by that time it will be Christmas and we will be worrying about frost and snow. Since the latest check of the valves, (all within 1 thou of 4 & 6,) plus the reset of the throttle bodies, it now idles quite nicely at 1200. On a point of information it always did idle well on cold start up, but once the engine was warm it would then start to bumble a bit and could stall on tick over. Not any more. The popping on overrun was worse with the original map and mostly went away with the Beetle map. I tend to blip the throttle on downshifts and use engine braking alot. So while it still pops a bit, based on Pete's latest dissertation above, it apears that this is now a "Feature." So not a problem as long as I know what is causing it and I think now I do. It was just my Cali 1400 did not do it! (different engine and different map I presume.) Either way - I will now leave the bike alone and ride it for a while - weather permitting - knowing that I have the fuelling as near to right as you can get it, without resorting to re-mapping. Quite frankly, the bike is still capable of a lot more than me and as such, apart from the weight of it and even worse the weight of the Cali, I think it is a fine bike and I am very fond of it and its associated "Features". The next job is putting back together the V11 that my daughter dropped! Nothing major, but lots of bits of unobtainium. Thanks again for all the help and a very interesting discussion and learning experience. Malcolm

Well spotted on the plugged subframe holes docc Ciao

He could have tried playing with the engine temp trim which you can adjust as a % for each temp break point so richen it up when it's cold. Also there's the option of the start enrichment map which enriches the fuel delivery for 4000 engine revolutions which is around 3 min running until it gets some temp into it. These parameters make a massive difference to cold start and running as I found out when I used the V11 2 valve engine temp break points and warm up trim initially on my Centauro engine. With the much larger and completely different 4 valve head design the engine temp trim % and break points were totally wrong for the Centy engine and it was nearly impossible to start and ran poorly until up to around normal engine operating temp. At or around normal engine temp it ran very well but starting and cold were really bad. Ciao

Well it may be a good bike as long as they're aware it's a Bitza. Ciao

Ok, Pete is witness to all of this, basically I had Beetle map Mk1 installed to a stock standard Bellagio. And life was good, better fuel consumption, slightly more power and no popping on over run but - that only applies on a country run where your engine is thoroughly warmed up and you are surfing the mid range. The bike was remapped in winter, combine that with a destroked 1200 that suffers massive barrel finnage suitable for that larger motor and you get an extremely cold blooded bike that takes minimum of 3 minutes to warm up or it stalls regardless of the fast idle collar setting. My thoughts were that that the AFR was too dry and cold at off idle settings, and here Mark modified the map to include very slightly more fuel across the map - and it worked. Downside, very slight popping on over run but FAR better manners in city cycle where speed bumps and slow roundabouts would easily cause a flame out. To sum up, I am sure that Mark got the map right from square one but the gross amount of finnage and overcooling defeated that from the start. One fault had to be reintroduced to counteract another. If I ever have cause to remove the barrels then I would be sorely tempted to grind back the fins somewhat. Chris.

It's a Centy airbox. The V11 and Centy airboxes are very close to identical. The offset is a little different due to the differing engine location and the height of the holes for the inlet trumpet. The Centy holes are about 12mm higher. My V11 Daytona thread explains the differences with images. Ciao

You are correct but I'm not following your point.? A Centauro is a 5 speed. You start with a Centy and bolt the rest to that. My bike is a V11 Sport with a Centauro/Daytona engine so 6 speed, 8 valve V11 Sport. OR you can go the other way and have a 5 speed 8 valve "V11 Sport" starting with a Centauro and adapting the V11 Sport tank and bodywork. Or you can start with a Centauro and fit a 2 valve engine and V11 Sport tank and bodywork and front end. This things a bit of a bastard. Short tank and Lemans bodywork as well. Ciao

Make no mistake, the "RedFrame" V11 Sport was/is a real "sporting" Guzzi. So-much-so, that Moto Guzzi very quickly lengthened and braced the frame, offered a fairing, with a wider rear rim/bigger tire, changed the forks, and offered "handlebars" (over the clip-ons). We > RedFrameTrash < are just lucky to land here and soak up the love.

In any event, I pity the buyer who joins here.