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Just mounted a GG pan on my green frame. The inside screen from the old pan was'nt a perfect fit, otherwise very nice. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-A525F via Tapatalk

Take the weight off the front with a jack under the engine and loosen off all the triple clamp bolts including the stem clamp bolt, wheel clamp bolts, front guard bolts, brake calliper bolts and axle then grab the wheel between your legs and jiggle the bars from side to side to release any tension and tighten up the triple clamp bolts then the stem clamp bolt then the axle nut drop the weight back onto the front wheel pump the forks up and down with your weight and then tighten up the axle clamp bolts the calliper mount bolts and the front guard mount bolts. Ciao

Hello again fellow puzzle solvers. Thanks again for your interest and input. Docc. Yes my bike has a chin pad and white dials. The VIN number on the log book begins ZGUKS000.... which matches the numbers on the headstock. Im not sure how to decode the year of manufacture. The other long number begins e3*92/..... Weegie, LuckyPhil, 80CX100..You all seem to have this right in describing my set up which does fit with the diagram found on the Harpers site ..see above. 20mm bearing on RHS. 25mm on LHS. No nut, but axle spindle threads directly into left leg. Spindle passes through 25 mm drilling in RH fork leg, shoulder of spindle butts up against outer face of RH bearing. through inner sleeve which has an internal diameter of 20mm. and external diameter of 25mm, with a wider shoulder which butts against the inner side of the LH bearing. This inner sleeve protrudes about 13 mm through the LH bearing, the 15mm aluminium (int dia. 25mm) spacer slips over that, and butts up against the outer face of the LH bearing and the inner face of the LH fork leg. Everything tightens together when the spindle is torqued up with the 14mm hex allen key from the right. Two screws on the RH leg lock the spindle. This does seem an odd design to me too, partly because it is possible to assemble things incorrectly, as I have discovered. If I understand it correctly now it perhaps offers the advantage that both bearings inner races are supported on both their inner and outer faces......but the "whats in the parts bin this week?" also seems plausible? I'm just glad to have it all back together...new rubber and bearings, new shock (another story!) improved mud protection, and sundry other detailing points.

I believe this is the way it works. Its sleeved on one end to reduce the bearing ID and provides a shoulder as well for bearing spacing. the other end is flush up against the opposite bearing inner race. I've seen this technique on other wheels and it's what the parts book seems to indicate on this model as opposed to the later model with 2 25mm ID bearings and the usual flush ended spacer with a radial control ring on the OD. Ciao

The missing link here in the data sheet is for the V11 is ZDDP (zinc) content for flat tappet engines. Phosphorous and sulphur from memory a a partial substitute but flat tappet oils usually have a minimum 1000ppm of zinc and the other two to help offset the reduction in zinc not replace it. Any oil designed to be kind to a CAT converter isn't going to be kind to flat tappets. Ciao

No problem, I prefer the deep sumps to eliminate the spacer which I always felt was a bit of "Michael Mouse Engineering" the downside is they cost quite a bit more. I really like the GG, just think it's a really nice well designed and beautiful item. The MotoSpezial on the other hand has the Vee so the pickup is always covered no matter how stupid (or brave) you get and I believe it cools better too. When I purchased mine a long time back I also opted for the optional site glass, which I love, no more messing with dipsticks. Just wish somebody would make summit for the broadsumps, in the meantime, I'll soldier on with the Roper Plate

Here it is: For our V11 engine, Motul recommends the SAE 5W-40; data sheet with the kinematic viscosity and VI on page 2 https://azupim01.motul.com/media/motulData/DO/base/7100_4t_5w-40_en_fr_motul_20210305.pdf When you compare the ASTM D445 viscosity tests with the 10W-60, https://azupim01.motul.com/media/motulData/DO/base/7100_4t_10w-60_en_fr_motul_20210305.pdf , you can't help but notice the huge result difference of the 40 deg C test (160.1 mm2/s versus 79.6 mm2/s , which ultimately influences the VI 181 versus 175. However they are not providing the HTHS test results. I will attempt to make a spreadsheet with all the V11 recommended fully synthetic oils from all the brands.

The year model is coded on the VIN before the actual serial number. YM=2000, 1M= 2001, 2M=2002 etc. The actual month/year the particular unit was built is scribed into the metal plate on the left of the headstock. You likely will have to push some wiring out of your way to see it.

Pretty sure they all do the same job, just depends how you like your oil filter oriented. The HMB model has the advantage of taking less vertical space so would suit a full fairing. The Harper on the other hand having the filter pointing downwards allows the filter to be prefilled during an oil change. Personally I prefer the MotoSpezial deep Vee sump and outsider but in that model the filter sits out in front and lot of people dislike it fearing that debris from the front wheel would hole the filter (never happened to me yet). I think Guzziladen (as well as others) stocks them now. There was also a rather nice deep sump made by a Swiss company that located the filter underneath, sort of like the broadsump setup. The difference being in the broadsump it's just hole, in the swiss model the filter was isolated, so if you removed the filter you didn't empty the sump, bit like this one

A lower W number would be better docc, full Ester base of course. Now your engine is getting a few miles up it may be worth considering a 60 weight. Maybe a 10W-60. I run this in the Daytona engine and many use the 10W-60 in Germany. Ciao

FWIW, I've never used CJ-4/CI-4 or whatever diesel rated oils in mySport. I've used them in other machines, though. I settled on the full PAO/ester RedLine 20W-50 long ago. "Full-synthetic with PAO and Ester base stocks and 2200 ppm of ZDDP "

This is why motor oils rated for diesel engines can be favorable to flat tappet motors.

HI Docc. Thanks. From the photo year of manufacture would seem to be 2002..which makes sense given it was first registered in the UK in March 2003. Does this tell me anything else I need to know? Thanks for your interest

Tks very much for posting info and photos on the different designs available, some very nice looking pieces of kit. I went through the HMB information, it appears their sump extensions are available with the filter on the front or rear; they caution that the rear filter style will interfere with most crossovers, I can see that issue being a pain with most exhausts, they also mention requiring a new dipstick, possibly new markings on the oem dipstick would suffice, idk. The long term wear and tear from most small road debris on a front mounted filter wouldn't really concern me. It would be extremely unlikely, but an undetected failure of the ft filter on the road wouldn't be nice; but I think if the event was violent enough to poke a hole into the filter, you'd hopefully know about it.

There are several lubricants which make the cut in this thread. However, what would be really useful is an understanding of what the data sheets really tell us. If I am correct, one of the parameter that indicates the oil quality is its Viscosity Index. Although, only looking at the highest number can be deceptive, since the VI is computed using kinematic viscosity results at two reference temperatures. You may have better performance at one or the other temperature. Synthetic oils benefits: (From the Elf Lubricant Website) Why use synthetic oil? Benefits of synthetic oil are numerous: Better low- and high-temperature viscosity performance at extreme service temperatures. Better viscosity index (VI). Better chemical and shear stability. Decreased evaporation loss. Resistance to oxidation, thermal breakdown, and oil sludge problems. Possibility to extended drain intervals, with the environmental benefit of less used oil waste generated. Improved fuel economy in certain engine configurations. Better lubrication during extreme cold weather starts. Possibly a longer engine life. Superior protection against "ash" and other deposit formation in engine hot spots (in particular in turbochargers and superchargers) for less oil burnoff and reduced chances of damaging oil passageway clogging. Increased horsepower and torque due to less initial drag on engine. Last benefit among the advantages of synthetic oil : Improved Fuel Economy (FE). Synthetic oil vs regular oil : is synthetic oil better than regular oil? (from the Elf Lubricant Website: You’ll discover below the different types of oils: Mineral oil is most commonly called as regular oil. These oils are produced by untreated mineral refining (Group I) Semi-synthetic oils or synthetic-based oils are a blend of oils produced by untreated mineral refining (Group I) and composed of oils produced by mineral refining with chemical treatment (Group III) Using “synthetic oil” terminology can be sometimes confusing as it might concern 2 different categories. Synthetic technology oils are oils produced by mineral refining with chemical treatment (Group III) 100% synthetic oils are oils with 100% synthetic molecules (Group IV and V) without any mineral refining

I set myself in Italy, and using a local search engine, I type key words in Italian. Then I follow the hit list, and I sometimes find old conversations, from back when the V11 was still in production. Using different search engines, and setting myself in different locations, I find pay. This is how I heard about the Playboy EE. But it is mostly a wild goose search. Search engines tend to always bring up the same threads that you have probably read several times already. There are some websites that invite owners to post their review of their bikes, following an established format. I also check what models are registered there. Just in case I get lucky. However that Playboy EE may be a case of the Mustang Bullit Fastback that was lost for many years, with the owner letting it rot in a barn, refusing any offer to turn it over.

If you're really concerned about the alignment, remove the front wheel and loosen everything. That also gives you a chance to raise the forks a bit if you want to. FYI -Most of my experience with misaligned forks is with dirt bikes. Somebody with more experience with setting up street suspension may be along soon.

I usually stay out of these discussions....oh well https://www.schaefferoil.com data sheets are on the web site

I hear that Legnano green starts with a silver base coat. So, like, silver with a party dress…..