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Well, here's what I STILL HAVEN'T done to my Scura: 1. Figure out the "thin" clutch engagement / feel at the lever. Related to below .... ? Some say poor adjustment due to hydraulic master, but can't suss that out. 2. Get off my ass and commit to inspecting / replacing the clutch / clutch plate or give it to someone who can get there. Looking at the plate is more of of a sense of comfort than a redline requirement, I suppose. 3. Repair / replace the shift spring and pawl bits. 4. Cam chain tensioner upgrade. I'd hoped to have done this last winter, but just waffled. Everytime I come back to the forum and the related threads, I get the overhelming sense that a guy needs to be a master machinist with an M.E. to get to the finish line. I fear that I'll end up with boxes of parts and a roller in the bed of my truck headed somewhere to correct my errors.

Just replace it and be done with it. They are a known weak ling and probably should be a "hard time" component any way. Ciao

i thought it was a drop in current- almost started to check/pull apart/adjust/butcher the wiring system. doccs suggestion to check the starter magnets was champion- un-doing a few nuts+bolts revealed the issue.

Rob (O2V11) called me and offered to drive to Dunedin from Edendale with spare parts if you needed anything, as his bike is waiting for a crankcase vent hose. Kind offer, but I think the part you need is a single use terminal. I hope I'm right.

Autumn is well and truly here in the UK, today was cold but dry, and after spending the past 2 weeks away on an overseas business trip, I managed to get out for a ride up to Matlock Bath. The bike next to my V11 is a 1962 Enfield 500, one of the last UK made 500 singles before production was transferred to India

+1 on the valve adjustment tool. I bought one as soon as I saw it. Makes "getting the feel" much easier. Fortunately for me my hammers are left-handed...

The V11 designer, Luciano Marabese, commented on this in his Anima Guzzista interview, 2002. "This one (and again points to the [Legnano green] V11 beyond the glass) was made with passion and is beautiful with this color and with the red frame. Ah, don't ask me for an opinion on the colors they did after it, okay? Or turn off the recorder ... You see, the Guzzi is also made of colors, traditions, spirit 'whoever doesn't understand this hasn't understood anything ... the motorcycle must be beautiful in its entirety, that codon there' (of new points the finger) when it is broken in two by a different color it loses its beauty." ( Others have found combined colors to their taste. )

We spoke about it before, but when it comes to automotive paradise, it seems the Netherlands have it all. Whatever I am looking for, vintage on four or two wheels, invariably, there will be a shop somewhere there that has it. However there is a dimension that I only found in dealerships in the USA. The "gathering and get together" idea of a go to place, even if you don't need to purchase anything. This is a concept that I never experienced before. Perhaps because the law does not stipulate that you need to close on Sundays? Many dealerships here organize events during the week-ends. The dealership becomes some sort of a clubhouse, and motorcyclists regroup there to spend time together. You can watch the MotoGP races at the Austin Ducati store, while sampling on Texas BBQ and being among fellow enthusiasts. I have never found that concept in dealerships in the European countries I visited. Also, and this is not strictly related to Motorcycle dealerships, sales' people tend to salute you and offer to provide assistance if you needed it. In Paris, you could spend hours in the Ducati store without anyone acknowledging you are even there. If you dare "disturbing" someone, you will get the appraising stare; you know what I mean.... the guy will gauge how much effort he should spare based on how you look and what probability his involvement could yield in terms of purchase. Not that you don't have this here, but there, it is the norm; here, more like the exception. Back to the Ducati store, a few years back when I had a deposit on a Panigale, they had a female sales assistant which last name was "Champion" and looking like one too; I found her more intimidating than enticing. Anybody from the Netherlands with an insight on TLM?

i had an odd moment today where i could not find the 13mm socket… but in scrabblin about found 3, yes 3, 10mm sockets. All of which will no doubt go on a quest together over winter

Here's the "special" socket I made for the LOP switch on the left. It's between a 21mm deep and std socket and if you think it's hard to access on a 2 valve engine then you should try it on an 8 valver. Ciao

Having dealt with Japanese bikes for decades, I have a pretty wide assortment of the typical socket and wrench sizes, most used being 8 (Yamaha dirt bike weirdness), 10, 12, 15, 17, 19, 22 and 24 mm. That said, I also have all the in-between sizes up to the 19, just in case. So what did I find today that I needed for my V11? A 21 mm deep socket! What for? The oil pressure sensor. Shee-yit. Luckily I also have an assortment of inch pattern tools, including a 7/8 inch deep socket that, though fitting loosely, was "close enough". (Note: Please see the follow up to my original post on my oil pressure light problem., thanks!)

Read this thread. My starter seized the front bearing and had apparently been the root of hard starting for quite some time before complete failure. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/23219-starters-batteries/#comment-265184

On the early V11, Relay 2 provides those functions through its Normally Open contact, but the current is routed through the weaker Normally Closed contact of Relay One. An important position for a High Current relay.

It was the starter magnets. 2 of them had come loose and were jammed up against the casing. Of course, I had checked the main earth point, forward bullet connectors and ignition switch first, naturally…. but yeah the starter was proper mullered! Got a dessert spoons worth of rust and magnetic debris when i opened it. No wonder it was getting hot. Thanks again docc!

No bike deserves the title of a "special" on colour alone. It needs more than that to be classified as a "special" or "limited edition" in my book. Ciao

In my opinion, this color combination doesn’t gel for me. Either the black or silver V11s look terrific as stock, but the black tank with silver side panels, seat cowl & fender doesn’t look “right” I suppose it doesn’t help having a sliver V11 as that’s what I’m comparing it to. All 3 factory red frame stock colors look “right”

The Kid says his Carb spot is for sale. It's pretty nice.. He's looking for a Guzzi with an external flywheel.

Did you remove the rear cover to the starter motor and verify all of the magnets are still adhered and spaced correctly?

From Motul Oils: Oil base Groups explained; There are five different groups of base stocks used in engine oils. Groups I and II are mineral oils (i.e. conventional petroleum oil), while Group III, IV and V are synthetics. A Group III synthetic is more refined than mineral oil and typically hydro-cracked (higher pressure and heat) to achieve a purer base oil. Group IV (PAO) is refined mineral oil that undergoes a special process called “synthesizing.” Generally speaking, Group IV performs better than Group III oils in handling heat, oxidation, low temperature start ups, and has a higher film strength and viscosity index (ability to flow). However, with today’s technology, some Group III oils perform as well as a Group IV. Synthetic Group V (Esters) oils are mostly made from vegetables, minerals and animal fatty acids. Esters are much more expensive because the ingredients are collected from nature, then get synthesized (which is a very expensive process). Group V Esters have all the advantages of a Group IV PAO, plus they can handle even higher temperatures. When Esters are burned, they leave far less coking deposits and are attracted to metal parts with an electro-chemical bond five times stronger than mineral oil.

The look from the rear annoyed me with the driveshaft side pipe sitting out further than the left hand side once the TI exhausts were fitted. Whipped up a spacer last night. happy with the look now. Now if only the rain would stop.

Oh, yeah, there is the thing about isolating the regulator from external charging (pull the 30 amp fuse while charging). Some say, "Yeah, whatever", but my regulator supplier says to isolate the regulator from external charging.