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If you carry under the seat a jumper cable about 3 ft long with a spade connector on one end and a bare wire at the other you can always slip it on the solenoid and touch the battery positive with the other. This will send 50 Amps to the solenoid and the starter will engage and spin. Just be careful to make sure the bike is in Neutral and pull the clutch for good measure. As well as starting the bike this jumper proves that the battery and starter are ok but of course if the battery is flat, disconnected or the starter is toast nothing will happen. I always found my VII Sport easy to bump start in 2nd gear.

OK, now this is getting ridiculous. A gear-driven, DOHC, 4-valve DESMO..... Honda Cub? Asian nations have very strict limitations on motorcycles and scooters. What to do? Hot rod those tiddlers to the max.

More info... (do yourself a favour & view some of these YouTube video’s on your large screen hi-def TV - I have to admit when you do that the V100 looks awesome! - & sounds great for a stock factory exhaust) 😅

IIRC, those four huge pipes in the Bardahl Special came from an Offenhauser DOHC 4-valve four. A monoblock engine with no head gasket to blow. Ole Bardahl started his oil business in Seattle, in 1939. It was huge in the 50s-60s. Off and on since then as the market has become glutted with lubricant brands. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bardahl Now Mandello approved you say? As my 1st generation Italian-American neighbor used to say: "Ain't dat cute!"

I had a hyperpro shock made once and they offered me both dimensions, the Sachs or the Ohlins (which was longer). The Ohlins manuals are available on this site for download, probably have the specs. Matching the length of the Ohlins is a good idea, even on a short frame bike. I had Ohlins on a Greenie I had for a while, it was a big improvement. And I think one of the main reasons to replace the Sachs unit is their tendency to crack one of the mounts.

Is this is the V100 Mandello’s nearest in concept competitor? More power & heft - but by golly imo it sure does look messy by comparison!

Maxton are a reputable company so why don't they know the dimensions already? I had a Wilbers custom made for my bike and they knew all the dimensions. I can get the dimensions for you tomorrow as I have a std shock in the workshop. You can only go I think it was 10mm longer or you run into drive shaft fwd universal joint contact with the swingarm tunnel issues. Ciao

They will raise for sure, but that is not on my mind, how coud you put a price on a V11 ? It is pure health just looking, thinking, dreaming, no price on health i heard. Yes ai'm hit hard 1 V11 Le Mans for sale here now Finn.no $ 8400 47000miles. My Nero Corsa ended up 10k+ $ ,was there any other for sale around, NO. I say average price in Germany 5- 7000$ for decent V11. For 3300$ - 3000 I woud have picked it up asap, I know ending up 5000$ finished. I don't think Docc have any worries about how much his 1 owner 200k silver, with all paperwork is worth . Cheers Tom.

The brakes on the RE are adequate even 2 up. They have ABS as well of course. I one or two 2 finger brake on everything I own and the RE is no exception. I just need to use more lever pressure on it. I never even use the rear brakes for stopping on any of my bikes. As with HP on modern bikes brakes are somewhat the same, a fair bit more than the average rider can utilise. A friend of mine and ex national A grade racer rides a basic Ducati 750 Sport from about 20 years ago that he's had from brand new. We used to ride together all the time, him 2 up with his wife and me solo, him always leading because he was faster than me even 2 up. The Sport was a single front disk bike and he said a few times he couldn't understand how all the road testers of the day complained about the lack of braking power from the single disk. This guy was an A grade road racer back in the day and competed in a few Castrol 6 hour racers. I like the power of a modern brake set up on my 1198 Ducati but it's way more than is needed on the road and sometimes can get you into trouble as it has a LOT of initial bite. You grab at the brakes in a panic and it's the brakes that will have you down the road before the actual situation. Ciao

That was a lucky find, I remember Docc telling us about that years ago. The two bullet connectors (60) connected to the clutch switch (17), I think that's a common fault. Also on high milage bikes the wires work harden and snap under the insulation where they constantly bend back and forth around the headstock, you can find the broken ones by pulling hard on them one at a time, if they stretch the copper core is broken.