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Took the V11 out for a 50km ride around the lakes here in Rotorua NZ. With the TI map and the decent tune up I cannot fault it. Purrs like a cat and when you want growls like a tiger with that torque and the sound of the TI Cans. I honestly cannot fault it. It is running superb thanks to the information on this forum. I had my bike lift close to the garage doors which was a bit of a pain getting the bikes around the lift to exit the garage. Also have to think about an addition to the two bikes. So in goes the lift with bikes not on the lift closer to the open doors of freedom! Been looking around for a third bike with the criteria being it needs to be old (40 years old is about 1/10 of the annual registration fees here.) From $520 down to $50. Love an old guzzi but prices are rising super fast. I will know when the right one comes along. So what did i do to my V11 today? Gave it a new position in the garage

Just received a shipment of Omron G8HE-1C7T-R1-DC12 relays today! After reading thru all the technical posts re V11 relays problems and learning the scarcity of the most suitable relays for our steeds, I thought I'd do a little search and found these on ebay. They are brand new, NOS I suppose, not cheap at $10 each + tax/shipping out of Michigan and the vendor claims to have hundreds available. https://www.ebay.com/itm/162517009426?epid=1233534558&hash=item25d6c4c412:g:rN8AAOSwsXFZJuh0 I curently run the G8HN-1C2T-R DC12 that came installed on the bike when I bought it without any problem but I though it would be good to have these on hand in case of failure. Hope that helps if anyone is looking to stock some of these. Also know that I was able to bring the shipping charges from $37.50 to $9.20 for 10 relays!! Cheers!

I don't think it would make much difference, TBH & if anything might make thing marginally worse. I suppose it depends on whose cool aid you drink. The argument AFAIK for lagging is to keep the exhaust gas hot increasing velocity and moving hot gas clear of the head quicker and to keep external temps down. I reckon if anything though all it really does is marginally detract from head cooling, by preventing heat from radiating from the head/headers, either way I don't think there's a lot in it. The bike acutally has ceramic coated pipes, inside and out, that was to keep under fairing temps down, but on reflection was probably a poor move. @Lucky Phil I hear you, you've probably given up on making suggestions to me and I understand why. As it is I'm enormously grateful as it was due to your interventions and suggestions that got me a runner in the first place 1) I'll serially pipe the coolers and see what happens 2) Run the bike without the fairings to see what happens. Based on the outcomes of 1&2 I can then either try to get a 1/2 fairing made to give me a less temperamental mount (and just store the Australia fairing) or juggle some more with the coolers. Keeps me out the pub (sometimes)

Watch the end.... There is some nice views of the TT circuit.

It's called gettin old:) A Royal Enfield 650 Interceptor is the best choice available today to a "classic bike" I know I'm like a broken record but seriously it's a classic bike without the expense or hassles. Ciao

You should put the sensor back on the airbox where it was designed to be.

Just had a spare front fender resprayed. Legnano green and white base. Some say silver base. Only cost me 60$. I say it's looks very simular. I might do it again with silver base. Lighting will fool you. IPA time [emoji482]. Cheers Tom Sent fra min SM-A525F via Tapatalk

John, can you give us a picture of your spark plugs and do a compression test. I know what can you tell by that , but a little information is better then none. I'm sure you've gone over this a 100 times but I was wondering about cylinder pressure. You could reduce your compression ratio by retarding your cam a few degrees it might give you what you need and wouldn't cost any money. I like the fan idea how many watts is it? Before you do anything more with the oil coolers I think would remove the turn signals and try some hybrid fairing. Of course if your stuck in traffic a fan is the only real solution and that's limited.

Well you certainly have the 278mm correct docc for the std shock. My bike must also be a "crossover bike" then as well. Ciao

Docc's second suggestion is the worst news, but is actually more likely. if the RH end of the crown wheel has rust pits on it, then the #10 seal needs to be replaced, after you blend out the rust (if minor) or fit a seal saver (if rust will chew out the new seal). Be aware of the seal orientation. It looks to be in backwards when correctly fitted. A leaky #10 seal allows oil to travel along the axle cavity inside the crown wheel, and the leak shows coming out the LH side of the box.

I know NZ is a small market, but those prices are insanity. Bikes in general are getting pricier here in the USA. Glad I snagged my clean V11 when I had the chance. They will never be cheaper than they are now...

Any of the Le mans 850 through to 1000. Daytona. Any old V7 or 850T's. Ambassadors. The V11 is just starting to rise. With this Covid pandemic going on and no one travelling there is a lot of spare cash around for toys. I think this is contributing to price as we only have relatively small pool of vehicles in NZ. Someone was asking 25k (17.5K USD) for a mk5 lemans recently. It was low mileage. A nice MKII 850 would be around 16k USD. Unfortunately my budget doesn't stretch that far

"The argument AFAIK for lagging is to keep the exhaust gas hot increasing velocity and moving hot gas clear of the head quicker and to keep external temps down. " I was under the assumption that the theory on this to keep 'internal' temperatures up at the furthest point and thereby increasing draw through the entire engine, a negative pressure turbo charger if you will. Anyhow, looking at the design of the bike dispassionately, there would no worse place to mount a cooling element than in close proximity to the hottest external part of the engine. Further the pipes are blackened to increase radiation. So, if you insulated the part that wants to reject heat against the part that doesn't want to absorb it perhaps there maybe a benefit? For example if you raised the exhaust temp by say 30C by insulation and lowered the ambient heat in that area by 10C so that the oil cooler may have a chance to run cooler. And I don't think that raising the exhaust header temp by 30C will relate to the block being raised by the same amount since it must get past the point of contact through a gasket. If flow reversion worries you then that's the point of the wrap, to promote flow towards heat. Put it this way, does double walling headers really effect the engines state of tune? Do heat shields? Probably not by much but do they reduce temps in the local area? Absolutely! Not much to loose but much to gain. Chris.

I have been to the Royal Enfield dealer in Houston, I will make a specific post about it. The dealer offers both Triumph and Royal Enfield among a slew of Polaris trikes. Now, are you aware that both Norton and BSA are going (allegedly) to have new models available for the purchase in 2022? In particular the BSA Gold Star. Norton has chosen to attack the top end market, and compete with the likes of Ducati. But they should eventually come up with a Norton Commando later on. I have never ever forgotten to deploy my kick stand, but I have dropped the Le Mans by being presumptuous about my physical strength. Kudos to him though, as he could pick up the bike by himself, even if not using the best technique. I personally had to cry for help to get the Le Mans upright, even using my legs...

Those chaps were keeping a nice pace on the IoM . . . . . . and in Wales, "Like a pair of Spitfires!"

Problem with fans are space but I hear you all. @Tomchri that's my issue way too anal, most riding HiCams don't bother installing anything, just thrash the living daylights out them. Stock a lot of these engines will be running with pressure in the 40s due to the weak spring and they don't appear to self destruct (oil pump excepted) but I'm preaching to the converted you know all that already. My personal theory is the HiCam was derived from a race engine and rushed into production as Guzzi were in a bad way and needed sales fast. However they then proceeded to tune the thing to within an inch of its life. Nobody I know with the stock Daytona has issues, it's a much happier and tolerant engine, yet the C kit only amounts to around a mere 6BHP. It also didn't help in those days that quality control was nonexistant questionable. Chuck states they only gave you the Centauro assembled to ensure you got all the bits. Then there's Pete's story about the Centauro that never ran right and turned out the factory installed a C kit cam in one head and a B kit cam in the other. Thank you to all for time and suggestions John

Pete aka "Street" from the Griso Ghetto Forum created this nice image ... ;-)

Greg Field quote from earlier post. Guzzimoto: You are understanding me correctly. The later triple clamps include a 1/2-degree of cant compared to the steering axis. These gray "canted" triple clamps were used through the end of the red-frames. In general, if your red-frame's forks have an axle nut, they also have the early non-"canted" clamps and if your red-frame has an axle that screws directly into the fork leg, it has the "canted" clamps. There is some crossover between axle-fixing arrangements and clamps, though, and Guzzi offered a kit of the "canted" clamps for people who wanted to reduce twitchiness of their early bikes, so any combination of parts is possible. Rosso Mandellos had black "canted" triple clamps. Starting with the LeMans, Guzzi again fitted non-"canted" clamps, but they were painted black. Still not definitive. I have see a "kit" from Guzzi with a pair of clamps but not sure of their dimensions. Note the "kit". Not sure if it means anything. https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=60733 Ciao

Greenie V11 Sport... with the MAGNI fairing...a true unicorn. What a damned elegant machine. Much respect, Tom.

Back in the 90’s the co I worked for had a mandatory policy of hearing protection. After much grumbling I gradually realized having my ears ring after work wasn’t normal & have been an advocate for hearing protection since then. However this has not prevented the accumulated damage done prior to that point & have a constant hissing in my left ear. For riding I wear plugs & found this co; https://www.earplugstore.com who offer an assortment of earplugs to try, for as they say ears are all different. I did spend the $100+ one time on a pair of custom plugs but found they rubbed against my helmet & amplified the road noise ! Frankly I am horrified how much hearing aids cost. Neither of my bikes have cost that much.

It’s probably my mistake, I remembered it was Terry but forgot his last name Whitaker it was

Gregs info was also that basically any early bike with an axle nut had the old steeper triple clamps. My bike has the later 501452 top clamp ( very hard to find number as its up next to the ignition switch) so either Gregs wrong OR my bike has updated triple clamps with the old style forks? Not sure. If I pull them off I can measure them on the surface plate. Ciao

I mentioned this possibility to John about a year ago. There are different sizes and some are designed for flow and some for pressure. Tons of options. If my bike suffered hot oil this would be what I'd do but it doesn't seem to. I think John would be better investing in a redesigned 1/2 fairing along the lines of an MGS-01. Something that didn't involve hacking the original Australia fairing of course. There's a good reason the MGS doesn't have a full fairing. Reading about the Magni prototype bikes Ted Stolaski had all those years ago and their full fairing made me think how ridiculous they were running those. Ciao

Weegie, back and forth here. What a bike you have going fast enough seems to solve all your problems . And a 59 Pan head in Sahara, wild quess, woundt ' think you want to know the pressure. Great bikes . Cheers Tom.

@andy york I agree Phil has also repeated this several times. So come the summer (long way away) I'll remove the fairing and take it out on a short run,without the bodywork it looks very odd. Even if I did find that it made a difference there isn't much I could do. Besides I've been pretty much through most of the engine a while back and found nothing, including checking the valve timing with dial gauges. Phil put me onto the leaky PRV (which Chuck had also pointed out) and then the substitution of a Griso spring into the PRV. That was a God send and dramatically improved the pressure. However it still runs toasty, I'm not the only HiCam owner with this malady, seen quite a few complaints on the COG (Centauro Owner's Group) forum. Some engines run hot and some don't and I got no clue why. The idea of using 2 coolers though, if to any degree sucessful, would give me a modification that would work, or at a minimum, knowledge that increasing oil cooler volume would reduce temps and some idea of where to go next. It runs Ok in clear air at the moment above 40mph, I just would prefer if I could lower oil temp 5 or 10 degrees, the temp at the heads and exhaust valves I'm probably better off not knowing. Using the 15/50 and the 105-110C oil temp I can still maintain approx 60psi pressure, which is below the max but respectable enough to stop any serious engine damage (I hope). Feels more like a track than a road bike, as long as it's going quick it's a happy engine, but slow down and it turns ugly fast. It's a complete hoot on the open road, best Guzzi I've ridden and I love it, come back from a ride grinning from ear to ear.

I think a test run without the bodywork is in order. Then you you would have a reference as to what the enclosed bodywork is doing to your temps. If the temps are greatly reduced then you would know what the problem is ...sort of. If there is no significant change or ....say less than 5 or 10 degree, I would start looking at how to mount a bigger cooler. Setrab makes very good coolers and even getting a slightly larger one could make the difference. Or .....sell me the Daytona !!!!! That is one Beautiful Motorcycle !!!!

A starter motor is almost a short circuit so if it locks up its probably pulling 250 Amps or More, I measured the starter on my VII once and found it drawing in the 150 - 170 Amp range. Any DC motor with brushes is also a generator, as it spins its producing a Voltage in the opposite direction to the battery, this is known as Back Electromotive Force (Back EMF for short), the faster it spins the less current it draws. Of course if its not spinning the only thing the limits the current is the load resistance and the batteries internal resistance. Its quite easy to measure the starter current all you need is a shunt made of regular wire and a cheap multimeter with a millivolt range. I'm sure there's a copy of my home made shunt sketch on here somewhere.

Most likely the big seal, #27. Simple enough to replace the O-ring, #24, as well. The large seal is not hard to change. If the leak appears on the right side of the rear drive, the small seal, #10, needs changing. The crown wheel bearing,#12, must be removed and replaced for this.

For typical day-to-day road riding, I might say the contrast becomes a matter of proclivity, perhaps even mood, of the rider. While the V11 doesn't care to be lugged along like, say, the (new) Indian Chief twin, it has a lovely, satisfying pull from about where the Indian leaves off. Equally, the V11 will never be a screamer in the rev ranges pioneered by Honda with small, light engine parts where the motor has to be kept on the boil at all times (my old '93 VFR comes to mind). Yet, when the mood strikes, the V11 can be 'brought to song' in that 6500-redline range - 'on the cam', as it were. Best of both worlds? A fine blend, I'd say, and quite up to my day's whim or the delight of the road at hand. Not long ago, I read a journalist's description of a motor being "all cam and no crank" as describing a high-revving horsepower maker. I'm likely more in the "crank over cam club," yet it's good fun to ride the V11 along the margins of the Venn Diagram that blends those sensations. Perhaps a part of its (somewhat) mystical character, some days she is thrilled to Tango and others quite ready to skydive. Let your proclivity prevail!