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This is what happens when you do up the cover bolts and the forks aren't engaged in the shift sleeves. Ciao

And here is some clean up... and installed the powder coated subframe and candy-apple red plates. Popped the tranny vent in the ultrasonic cleaner, removed drive shaft for complete service, etc. etc. etc. Good thing it's been rainy here. More rain tomorrow. More "rainy-day" projects...

Drilling the cush rubbers was Greg Field's idea. I tried it, and never went back. Making a Cushier Cush Drive - Technical Topics - Moto Guzzi V11LeMans.com Forum There are 3 places that need lubrication while you have the drive plate off. The input spline to the wheel benefits from Kluber Staburags NBU 30 PTM grease, the rubber pucks and retainer plate spacer benefit from dry-lube spray, and the drive plate bore needs waterproof grease. Should I lubricate my rubbers? - Technical Topics - Moto Guzzi V11LeMans.com Forum More discussion here: Cush drive lubrication - Technical Topics - Moto Guzzi V11LeMans.com Forum

Well that's because it's got 2 balance shafts. A flat plane in line 4 is not an inherently smooth engine, not by a long shot. I've got a physical problem with my right hand outer palm and little finger from many touring klms on a couple of K100 BMW's back in the day. No Guzzi will ever be as smooth as a Ducati V twin because of the crank orientation. Ciao

crap, here I am being a downer but, I can't help it. It's my nature. Waiting does make sense... But something to consider... You may recall, or not, the "updated spring" was a description used by MGCycle (they still do) and Harpers before the forum spring was developed. I purchased from each of them at the time and still have them, uninstalled of course. I would want to know for sure who's updated spring was in there. If the plan is to fix it roadside, the cover could break then.

"Okay, Houston... we've had a problem here.” https://www.abc.net.au/science/k2/moments/gmis9906.htm Your US model V11 didn’t come with the O2 sensor p6x - which creates the closed-loop feedback to the ECU refining the STFT & LTFT functions. As Mr Cameron pointed out, “If there is an oxygen sensor in the exhaust system, it detects any deviation from the desired mixture and the ECU corrects it.” The Italian’s discovered the MG oem sensor was flawed (as did Fiat). Only relevant for those V11’s 15RC O2 equipped - swapping the sensor unleashes the ECU to perform optimally. Good luck with tyre!

Those side covers can be stubborn. I can see how you could crack one in a removal attempt, especially if an extra-strong adhesive was used. And somebody who worked on this bike in the past wanted things to stay put. For example, the torx-headed bolts for the frame plates had a ton of loc-tite on them, then they used lock washers AND nylock nuts. What a bitch those were... I reverted to stock fasteners. As for the spring... this bike was owned by at least two previous forum members. And I've sent out a lot of springs to various places so one could have found it's way to this bike. I'm gonna leave it till it breaks (maybe never) since it already shifts well and it's not leaking. I don't feel like tempting fate with a previously cracked cover, and possibly super-adhesive. But I will carry a spare spring, just in case.

Possibly that weld can be as good as the original material, but not stronger. Because the weld attaches to original material, strength is limited by that. The weld looks good, but a strong weld depends on lots of things. Paint & oil contamination, incomplete weld penetration, porosity, and variations in any residual heat treatment all make restoration of strength difficult. But if it was me, and since the plate looks like the improved version, I'd leave it there. Watch for oil weeping through the weld after a long run.

MartyNZ convinced me on the drilled cush rubbers. He sent me a set just in time for my Scura to have an electrical problem that I ignored for a couple years... I think I'm just gonna replace every other with a drilled one and see how I like it. And Phil - I think your explanation is more likely than cracking it while prying it off. And why it's so important to dry-fit the cover before applying sealing. It's gotta be fully seated before you put a single screw into it.

I’ll follow with interest. Your enthusiasm & skills in fettling V11’s are fantastically admirable Scud - & your advocacy on drilling cush rubbers is intriguing. I remember reading Greg’s original post many, many years ago - with benefits of the drive being made cushier! So refreshing myself again on the cush subject, various posts stood out... MartyNZ, “I agree with him that the V11 is improved, and the drive train should last longer, with a cushier cush drive. But I don't share his view that engine braking causes damage to the wheel drive spline. I think that each 530cc piston slamming torque down the drive train every engine rev is the main reason for spline wear.” Jim in NZ, “The original design was OK, but the rubbers are very hard. I didn't drill mine, but I took out every alternate rubber wedge. I also regularly clean the whole cush drive and grease the centre bearing every 10,000km service. The advantage is that you can feel that the cush drive is a bit softer every time you change gear, with less abrupt take-up of the power. This must (by my reasoning) be kinder to the entire drive train fromgearbox to tyres.” LowRyter, “OK, the idea of drilling the cush rubber is to take shock out of the driveline for the purpose of a smoother ride or preventing driveline failure.” docc, “Seems the idea is all about cushioning the drive line.” Jim in NZ, “Yep, the idea is about cushioning the drive line, and I'm sure it will reduce stresses on all components during hard acceleration, wheelies, clutchless gear changes, unintentionally jiggling the throttle as you go over a bumpy road, and so on.“ LuckyPhil, “I dont really like the idea of removing rubbers because it means that the torque is now transmitted through only half the metal drive blades” Etc., etc. Now having read all that on the benefits of cushioning the drivetrain & even LP’s concern on torque being transmitted... If this all makes so much sense - where is the logic in then increasing “slamming torque down the valve train every engine rev” through to the drive splines - & with torque backlash directly transmitted back again by the very installation of direct drive timing gears? Isn’t this a tad oxymoronic - anyone else see the dichotomy here? I’m left scratching my head over all this... WTH - does this mean drive splines are more delicate than the cam/ drive train?

Evans over on the Ghetto is making some CARC protectors.

Good point that it likely broke being pried off from that rear, lower tab. That is an amazing weld. Someone knew what they were doing. + 1 on not disturbing it at this point! After my latest series of being in-and-out of that shift plate, it is disappointing to have a silly little drip. Shifts great! But drips. Gotta go back in. Again. Thanks for sharing the discoveries in this V11 refresh, @Scud! We all stand to learn!

Nice! Thanks, @KINDOY2! That delightful melodica sound made me think of Toots Thielemans. I had to find something live and with good audio. Toots!

I would wager it was more off than that. I know I said this before, but you may be vastly relieved by what it feels like after a couple Decent Tune-ups. Also, it is important to balance the Guzzi throttle bodies "at some rpm" (2500-3000 or so) rather than at idle. Not all technicians agree or do this and their balance will be lovely at idle, but perhaps considerably off at the rpm we actually ride. I don't mind a lumpy idle, but want it as silky as a Guzzi gets at 4-5000 and up. (Okay, they're Guzzis, so not "silky." Maybe "leathery" would feel just right . . .)

I personally apply Murphy's law; you know if it works, don't touch it. Although the temptation to intervene is there, simply because you want to keep up with curiosity, or self satisfaction that you did it too, I have scaled back my ambitions to make my personal V11 closer to the perfection it aspires to be. Of course, I have multiple excuses that I comfort myself with. The main one, is the bike runs reasonably well; and I use it as much as I can. Immobilizing it if not completely necessary does not sound the healthy alternative to me. The current Houston weather is an invitation to do everything on your Guzzi, and that's what I am going to do. My front tire is ready to give up, and it was brand new before I fixed my odometer...

For these Racebolts in Australia but for the majority of Ti fasteners it's ebay in Grade5. A few years ago I source all my TI fasteners from Toronto cycles so thats another option. Ciao

...so it actually has ONE red Moto Guzzi eagle valve stem cap. And in other news, it blew a 15 amp fuse twice, so that means it's ready for the lift and some attention to the electrical system along with all the other fun. I've been collecting bits from various stashes in the garage, and some shiny new things like Rizoma tanks and Pazzo levers. My favorites are the forum-made bits like Chuck and Phil's shift extender, and the drilled-out cush drive rubbers. Of course, I'll be popping in a new unbreakable spring when I do the shift improvement stuff. I also dug out a bunch of previously powdercoated bits from my aborted Champagne LeMans project. The candy-apple red frame plates and covers look great with the Glossy Black Nero. Speedhut says my gauges will ship next week. I got the remote clutch-bleeder line that comes on CARC bikes. Gonna try to fit that while I'm in there. '

An excellent description, as always, Docc! 😆 I'll learn to deal with it, one way or the other. Love my Guzzi.

Good on ya Sir................ welcome to the Nero Frey. Ciao

Cleaning up and inspecting... and a few more "discoveries" to report: Most things are in good order, and it already had Omron relays in all 5 positions. The bolt for the top shock mount was difficult to remove - put it against a straightedge, and sure enough, it was bent. I tested the CARC-style remote clutch bleeder on a spare clutch slave cylinder and it is going to work. It uses the same banjo bolt as the brake calipers. And I found a rather unpleasant scar on the side of the transmission. I was going to open it up and do the whole shift improvement thing, but it was shifting find and the PO said an improved spring had already been installed. So I am going to leave it in place and just change the oil. I also got a good look at the flywheel. It appears to be the same aluminum disc as came stock with Rosso Mandello and Scura. But since it did not come stock with this bike, I wonder if it is safe to assume it was not part of the "bad batch" of flywheels. I have no idea when it was installed, but it's got quite a few miles on it already. Hmmmm.....