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As always, I'm late to the party...

Tim, I fitted three pairs of drilled pucks in alternating recesses. See picture. No problems after 3 years. The other 3 pairs I sent to you in 2017/2018. Yours have slightly less rubber removed.

Here is the remote clutch bleeder, successfully installed. Good thing too, as the bleeder valve was rounded off and would have been a PITA later. This is simply the line from a CARC bike, I noticed it on my 2017 Stelvio, so that's what used to place the order with Harpers. They identify it as "Float Chamber Clutch Pipe" part # 05606630. It was $70 - but next time I flush the fluid I am going to be happy I installed it. It uses the same banjo bolt as the Brembo brake calipers (and two washers). Final routing TBD, but the Stelvio has it up under the seat near the battery. Update: final routing for the clutch bleeder hose is under the frame, then along side the big positive cable from battery to starter. It terminates near the battery tray. Should make for super-simple, one-person clutch fluid flushing.

Rev the engine in neutral and see what the entire bike does. In slow motion, one bar goes up and the other goes down. In that same plane, secondary imbalance wants to shake the bar ends up and down, except at 2X the engine RPM. This video regards the primary/secondary imbalance of twins - parallel twins in this case, but the principles of primary and secondary imbalance are explained. He is preparing a V-twin balance video, but we'll have to wait on that one.

Seasons greetings all................ love this site thx to all. Ciao

Rubber mounting is the 'go to' here, the Bellagio has large rubber grommets inserted into the top triple tree and it works well. The key is here as Docc says to to reduce the source or post engineer it with isolation. Isolation usually involves the transmission of the vibration through a material that has its harmonics at a different level than the source and thus it absorbs rather than resonates. Its a long path between the source ( crank wieghts) and the where its metered (the bars) and surely someone smarter than me could think of someting along that path that may help. If not, Gel filled Bars anyone? Chris.

I just sat on it. There are no demo bikes. This was a display bike that was being ferried to different dealers. They also had 660 Tiger standard and another new bike or two.

Looks really nice. I have owned 3 modern Triumphs and the last 2 were of such poor quality/design I swore off them and haven't been back. I'd be interested to know if they have improved in quality in the last 20 years. Racing success doesn't always reflect the quality of a road bike. Ciao

Inline 6's have perfect primary, secondary and rocking couple balance. The smoothest configuration along with the V12. Ciao

You forgot the Kawasaki KZ1300 in your 6 cylinders roster. The two strokes, you have missed out on something, that I can assure you.... Of course, the legendary Kawasaki triple, Mach III, H2, S1, S2, S3, S4. And later, the Yamaha RDLC and Suzuki 2 strokes four cylinders.... I have not looked for one here in the USA, but if you could get your hands on an Aprilia 250 RS, you would have a hard time leaving it alone!

Because what is felt is about more than just the quantifiable amount of secondary forces but also the direction of those forces. A Guzzi V twin secondaries act laterally and the Ducati fore and aft. The chassis and suspension does a much better job of absorbing the fore and aft secondary imbalance than it does laterally. I've owned a lot of different Ducati's over the years in many different configurations and none buzzed the bar/s as badly as a V11 sport. On a Ducati handlebar vibration simple isn't an issue. So Guzzi changed their balance factor to 52% at one point I heard from the std 50% to compensate and try and reduce the vibes.. An Aermacchi single requires a very different balance factor than an equivalent upright single due simply to it's lay down cylinder and the resultant direction of the secondaries and the chassis ability to dampen them. Ciao

Replace al the rubbers w/drilled ones . You want 100 % distribution of the rubbers . The anti-seize is good on the driveshaft splines . FoMoCo has a driveshaft spline lube too . I have some out in the shop , I would have to find it & post the part #

@MartyNZ did you replace all the rubbers with drilled ones, or did you alternate. And I have a bit of that Staburags - it's like religion with the BMW K-bike guys. That's what used on the transmission output spline a couple days ago. Thanks for the tips on the drive unit. @Lucky Phil I can send the take off from this bike after I verify that the powder-coated spare fits correctly. But working sort of back-to-front on this project, so can't send it immediately. Also, USPS is not shipping to Australia right now (thank-you COVID). I'm holding a spring for another member there.

I had a chance to sit on the new Speed Triple RR today. They took the comfort out of the standard bike and hit it with a pretty stick. This one looks half the size of the standard Triple, I suppose an illusion. So far as the riding position, I'd say it's about 2/3 extreme from our bikes into full a sportbike. A had to tippy toe it a little bit too but it wasn't a problem for me. The mirrors swing out, so very adjustable.It's a nice looking bike, reminds me of the early '00s Guzzi Lemans although not quite that pretty. A little bit retro. Given that I'm a little puzzled why they didn't make it a touch more comfy but I'm perhaps a little older than their target. I'd post a photo but photos are too large to drag and I'm too lazy to URL it.

Possibly that weld can be as good as the original material, but not stronger. Because the weld attaches to original material, strength is limited by that. The weld looks good, but a strong weld depends on lots of things. Paint & oil contamination, incomplete weld penetration, porosity, and variations in any residual heat treatment all make restoration of strength difficult. But if it was me, and since the plate looks like the improved version, I'd leave it there. Watch for oil weeping through the weld after a long run.

Bought the bike new at Lexington Motorsports and rode it the first 12.5K miles then sold it to Kale who lives in Nicholasville, KY where it has resided ever since. The bike came with the carbon front fender and fly screen. I added the chin spoiler, side carbon, along with Fast By Ferracci pipes and eventually the FBF high compression piston kit. Since then, Kale added the Mivv exhausts. The motor had a bolt loose in the oil pick up and spun a bearing, leaving the bike idle for over 6 years. In the last couple of weeks Kale bought a low mileage EV motor painted and installed it. The bike is back on the road now running more reliable than ever, this pic on Saturday around Shaker Village at Pleasant Hill, was on his "sea trials" shaking out the bikes lasts glitches. Which were a new voltage regulator and some of the wiring to the turn signals. As she stands right now, the bike is good to go.

I am also reminded of the motojournalist, Peter Egan, establishing the going rate of reimbursement for an enthusiast restoring a chosen motorcycle at the "usual 2¢ an hour" . . .

I have to mention the Speed Triple 1200 RR here... The overall look reminds me of the Le Mans, and I have always been a big fan of three cylinder engines since the Mach III appeared in 1969. Love at first sound! I thought the Triumph triple would sound the same, but the loud whistling of the air intake killed it for me... The 1200 RR seems to be better in that department...

Oh, easy! You just need to get all those pesky extra parts out of the way to get the Q-Tips into the tight spots . . .