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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/31/2021 in all areas
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Applying a "Startus Interuptus" fix to a VII is a bit tricky, its not as simple as providing the start relay 30 terminal with a direct feed from the battery because the start relays 87A (normally closed contact) feeds the headlight relay. if you provide a direct feed to the 30 terminal the lights will come on when the key is Off. Heres a simple way around that using an additional relay. I call a booster relay. The relay coil is driven from the original solenoid trigger wire which now only has to provide a fraction of an Amp The new relay's contact is fed from the large positive terminal on the solenoid via a 20 Amp in-line fuse, the other contact feeds up to 60 Amps to the solenoid ensuring it will throw the gear into mesh faster than its ever done before. Its not the only way to boost the starting, you can run 12 Volts to the existing start relay and make other arrangements for the headlight relay, I just put this forward as a simple way of fixing a problem without chopping into the OEM wiring. The first thing to do is test for Voltage at the start relay 30 terminal with the key turned Off, if its present that's the earlier wiring bypassing the ignition switch. If the Voltage is only present with the key turned On thats the later wiring i consider to be weak as its throttled by the switch and extra wiring to and fro. The wiring at the top of the sketch is the OEM start relay, I only show the contact and don't show where the 12 Volt supply comes from. The wiring in Red is new. If you use an old Bosch relay with mounting tab you don't need a base, just use individual spade connectors. Re the solenoid, I thought an explanation might be helpful. I show both the coils in the solenoid side by side, each coil has about 300 turns of wire, they are actually one inside the other. The heavy one I call the Grunt coil because it does most of the work engaging the starter is wound on first, the light one I call the Holding coil is wound over the top. The coils are quite different in resistance, the Grunt coil is only 0.25 Ohms and the Holding coil is 1.25 Ohms so by simple Ohms Law you can calculate the current they draw. Grunt 12 V/0.25 Ohms = 48 Amps, Holding 12 V/1.25 Ohms = 9.6 Amps The magnetic strength of an electromagnet is the product of current x the number of turns. Grunt 48 x 300 = 14,400 Amp turns, Holding 9.6 x 300 = 2,880 Amp turns so you can see the Grunt coil is magnetically 5 times as strong as the Holding coil. Note how when the main contacts close the Grunt coil has +12 Volts on both ends, so the current in it drops to zero leaving just the Holding coil to keep the starter engaged. The time it takes for the solenoid to engage the starter gear is quite short, between 15 and 100 milliseconds all depending on how much current you can cram into the coils which is of course dependant on the resistance between the battery and the coils. If all this has made your eyes glaze over its just the half of it4 points
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There’s two more hidden under covers behind the silver & the grape ape, plus the MT01. I’m living the dream😇4 points
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Final ride of 2021. Tried to take a run up Mount Palomar, but wet roads and low visibility turned me away. Happy New Year everyone.3 points
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I heartily endorse what DOCC wrote. Grateful for the generosity and spirit of the folk out and about here.3 points
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Christmas has been & gone, resulting in much Turkey & sausage consumption. It’s rained most days for the past 2 weeks. As an antidote to the post Christmas torpor I ventured into the garage today to do my first Roper plate installation on the silver V11 I found the lower sump stuck fast, gentle manipulation with a rubber mallet and wooden drift produced no movement. So searching v11lemans.com I found the suggestion of painting nitromors stripper onto the gasket. Sure it removes the paint from the sump, but I’m getting the upper & lower sump powder coated as the original paint is flaking off. The paper gasket absorbs the nitromors, and after 2 ~ 3 applications and leaving it for an hour, I inserted a craft knife blade into the gasket, gently tapped it in and the sump simply fell off, great result Now to get the powder coating done, and reassemble with 3 new gaskets, then repeat the roper plate installation on my greenie . . . Roll on spring 😊3 points
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Got it in my mind that I "need" a Norge. Prefer a bronze 2v but open to others. Test rode one today, the seller thought it looked so good with me riding it he decided to keep it2 points
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Welcome @2Stroke-Racing! Now we know who the Nürburgring "Moto Guzzi vs Others" rider was made after !2 points
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germans usually do the same - hence the difference for BMW - she the bike / he the car but i tend to give certain bikes male names - if they are outstanding hardworking pieces of engineering as this V11 ! It was my first italian bike that was a true brother Compared to your collection and the other amazing machines shown in this community most of my bikes are daily rides or just goofy memories with the exception of the old gp maico.2 points
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sister ? it is a hard working brother (1999 first series) without much modifications other than parts, broken by crashes on mountain roads within the last 15 years. front wheel, brakes and exhaust collector donated from centauro review mirrors and handlebars- street legal after market parts steering damper from a later Le Mans In it´s younger days it was a nearly mint example but 14 years later ...2 points
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I'll play! I don't have any Napoleans anymore, but Scud might throw in and weigh one for us. My little CRG only weigh 110 grams, but I added them to the barend weights, having taken some metal off for the mounting points. And +1 on grip selection. The factory grips on my Sport were ridiculously thin and hard. From early on, I've used these gel ProGrip Superbike grips (made in Italy!) . . .2 points
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So, for the sake of discussion, I weighed the OEM bar ends with hardware and my current Ken Sean bar-end mirror with approximate mounting hardware. OEM bar end w/bolt and brass wedges: 421 grams Ken Sean rectangular bar end mirror w/hardware: 397 grams. The bar-end mirror is 94.5% of the weight of the OEM bar-end. A potential advantage of the weight being in the form of a mirror at bar's end is that The mirror places the weight further from the focal point of excitation (handlebar clamp), and the dampening effect of airflow on the mirror certainly has some influence on energy dispersion. Of note, the favored Napolean mirrors may very well weigh more than the Ken Sean. Someone else may be able to weigh one complete with hardware for comparison. The major caveat is that the effect I have noted is on the above the triple, rubber-mounted, tapered alloy bars as found on the Ballabio, Cafe Sport, Coppa, Scura and a few others. NOTE: This has not been tested in the Guzzi wind tunnel. Another casualty of Covid.2 points
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Maybe get a ride on a Stelvio before you make your final decision. Otherwise, good luck with the search - that's a nice color on the Norge.2 points
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You cannot call anything "Champagne" unless it comes from that French region. The non trade name is "Bubbly"...2 points
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From the album: 2Stroke-Racing
bike won the 1975 amateur race and finished 2th in the amateur championship at the end of this season. Rider could not find sponsors to become pro racer and stopped his career. 3rd placed racer Walter Koschine went on to become pro racer and won the german pro championship in 1976 with his legendary Seel-Maico RS125 and was the last ever german champion on a Maico street racer.© rs125
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Thank you. I have not ridden a clipon equipped V11. There is undoubtedly a difference in felt vibration between the bar styles: shorter and solidly mounted vs. longer and rubber-mounted. It requires some pondering of the physics involved to determine which style vibrates more unacceptably, as to frequency and amplitude of vibration. Are we discussing band-aids here? A good painstaking tune-up might just render all of this moot.1 point
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Perhaps the only place on a V11 where a few grams actually make a difference.1 point
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ST3 is in a totally different class, more like a comfortable sport bike with luggage hung on as an afterthought. Quicker turning and peppier. The Norge is like a Griso with full fairings. Solid handling but not built for tight twisties at speed, nice torque from low on rpm's. Drop it down two gears and the acceleration for passing, etc is perfectly fine.1 point
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That's it. Photos don't do the color justice, you really have to see it. It's not gold, not champagne, Lisa described it as a fawn color.1 point
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Thanks for posting that Kiwi_Roy. I've read most of the other posts about Startus Interruptus, yours and others', but still wasn't quite clear about how to proceed. It's clear that there are a few different approaches-being a complete electrical dunderhead I found it a bit confusing. The combination of the drawing and the summary really helps. I like the idea of limited chopping into the original loom too, so it's reversible if I mess it up. I also like taking the new positive from the starter rather than the battery, which already has quite a few ring connectors attached. When you write, "The first thing to do is test for Voltage at the start relay 30 terminal with the key turned Off, if its present that's good", I'm not quite sure what you mean. Do you mean that this check on the original starter relay verifies that you have the 'weak' wiring which routes the solenoid trigger through the ignition switch? Or do you simply mean check this on the newly wired relay to ensure all is good? I have a V11 Tenni registered in 2003. It occasionally suffers from 'Startus Interruptus'. In the past I've removed the starter relay and connected contacts 30 and 87 on the starter relay base with a length of wire to start. Is there a simple test to check that my bike has the 'weak' wiring system? Thanks1 point
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Do remember that because of its limitations the 2V motor in the early Norges is handicapped a bit because of its 76HP power output. Don't get me wrong, it's plenty, but when you're trying to overtake and misjudge, even dropping two gears won't work miracles because the engine runs out of puff and pushing that huge fairing through the air takes a lot of energy. The bodywork on the 2V models is also fragile and stupidly complex and you really need to cut a hole in the LH lower to enable you to check the oil! Due to the factory stuffing up the top end on the early 8V's they are cursed by Internet paranoia. Certainly it was a huge screw up but from mid 2012 all motors had roller tappets and are as bulletproof as the 2V's but offer 22+ more HP in stock trim, easily increased to 100 with a decent map and more torque everywhere. The bodywork is much improved and more robust and they kindly put a 'Door' in the fairing to check the oil! As with all CARC bikes the swingarm bearings and shock linkages will need greasing and due to its big frontal area and fairing the steering head bearings will have probably taken a beating as well. Expect to have to change them out. Generally the CARC series bikes are very reliable once a few things have been taken care of. If you want more info? Feel free to PM me. I am the '8V Evangelist' but I don't sneer at the earlier 2V versions. Pete1 point
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Did not ride it extensively in stock form. On the motorways, I had to have better mirrors - vibration or not. Thankfully, it may be the combo of rubber-mounted tubular bars and enough weight on the ends of those bars that 4K+ RPM is nice and sweet. The taper of the bars as well may have been engineered to help with vibes. Although somewhat counter-intuitive to me, that taper may just have moved the harmonics higher than the exciting forces.1 point
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I went looking for an image of the "bronze" Norge. Is it this (what we V11ers might call "champagne)? That is gorgeous!1 point
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So, I had a little fun looking into the American phrase, "Balling the Jack." Adopted by early 1900s railroad men to mean going fast or "pouring on the steam." My Sport seems to like this style of "keeping on the boil" or "wickin' it up, mon!" . . . . Turns out "Ballin' the Jack" comes from an early 1900s ragtime music dance tune. Hard to keep still!1 point
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Ok so I must have misread your post. With your setup there is no/acceptable/better than stock bar vibration? Ciao1 point
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i just stumbled across your forum post while researching possible V11 tenni bikes for sale. Just in case you do not know there seem to be a little wave on tenni le mans available here in europe now - i suppose some owners depart after many years to get the new V100 in the same kind of colour style ? https://www.dasparking-motorrad.de/gebrauchtmotorrader/moto-guzzi-tenni.html maybe the dutch offer is worth your attention ? Or you try contact https://tlm.nl/brand/moto-guzzi/ - these people are experts in sourcing rare guzzi originals - but you need to pay the price tag. hope i do not bother you and sorry for my poor english writing skills have a great guzzi time !1 point
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Happy holidays to all. Santa didn't give me improved electrical connections on my Guzzi, so I'm gonna have to do it myself. I guess he knew better than to open that can of worms....😅1 point
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While the sideplate is off, you could burnish the edges of the cam tracks in the cam wheels. I think Pete Roper suggested this. Then I shimmed the cam wheels inwards to maximize engagement with the shift fork pegs.1 point
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Here is the remote clutch bleeder, successfully installed. Good thing too, as the bleeder valve was rounded off and would have been a PITA later. This is simply the line from a CARC bike, I noticed it on my 2017 Stelvio, so that's what used to place the order with Harpers. They identify it as "Float Chamber Clutch Pipe" part # 05606630. It was $70 - but next time I flush the fluid I am going to be happy I installed it. It uses the same banjo bolt as the Brembo brake calipers (and two washers). Final routing TBD, but the Stelvio has it up under the seat near the battery. Update: final routing for the clutch bleeder hose is under the frame, then along side the big positive cable from battery to starter. It terminates near the battery tray. Should make for super-simple, one-person clutch fluid flushing.1 point
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The 'fits and niggles' of our era Guzzi are a result of an old world motor co being kept on life support by passionate Italian folk who simply refused to let it die. Guzzi was a normal competitive motorcycle co. and relative equal in the moto world till the CB750 emerged in '69. A day of reckoning for every other brand as well. It was up to the "driven" players and the bean counters to make necessary changes (if the money was there) or let your marque die. So think of it from the business decisions made at the time while many other brands went by the wayside, Guzzi moved ahead with what they had. An old motor they couldn't afford to replace, and the desire to build and sell bikes. They spent what they could on what they felt was a priority. Internationally, police motorcycles kept a cash flow. Dr John Wittner gave them the public performance injection needed at just the right time. Sure there were other models available but the spine frames were what kept the marque moving forward technically, at a pretty dark time. When I look at the stupid wiring or bicycle grade gauges, or sub standard castings, or obvious afterthought arrangements, I see acceptable loss when all that mattered was a price point that had to be reached. I see passion and patriotism, and love. I don't get the feeling they were cheating in any way to just make money. (C'mon, you know nylon is not what designers preferred for gas tanks) What we're left with is the answer to a math problem several decades old. The sooner you think of your bike as the Italians had to to just get her produced and to market, the sooner you can learn to have a glass of wine and just enjoy the relationship. Just change what they could not. To me 'strange and quirky'.. are, for my Guzzi, terms of endearment.... like... "my girlfriend is crazy" but you should meet her, and you'll see everything about her is not "standard."1 point
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Last ride before hibernation today, l think. Nice weather with 6c. Home 6.30,, 2c = V cold knees. Cheers Tom Sent fra min SM-A525F via Tapatalk1 point