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I sat on the black frame burgundy that I now own at a motorcycle show in Indianapolis, and was enchanted enough to stay in touch with the small "dealer" in a small town north of mine. I made monetary rationalizations and negotiations and bought it. The feedback from riding was unlike anything else I'd ridden and since it isn't the easiest machine to ride, it keeps one's attention more active in my opinion. Mountain roads in Virginia, West Virginia, North Carolina, etc. sealed the affection. Then the dreaded electrical gremlins came, and it sat languishing for several years in the garage. A crash ( obviously on a different bike) left me grounded and slightly spooked for a couple years. When I got the desire to return to riding back, no mechanic would touch it without a suitcase full of unmarked bills and Methuselah's scheduling. Somewhere I heard the phrase "If it's going to get f***ed up you might as well do it instead of paying for someone else to. " Around that same time I remembered this forum and was encouraged. The first startup after relay exchanges and the "decent tune up " brought tears to my eyes, and I thank you all...

Just saw Guzzi post this online. Enjoy!

What strikes me the most in this documentary, is that a motorcyclist who gets a Guzzi is special for specific reasons. Why did you purchase a Guzzi, but more importantly, why a V11 in the first place. I know that not everyone on this forum owns or rides a V11; still, it is the rallying call of this site. We all our reasons, but some of those describes in the video resonates strongly with me. They may belong in the previous generations behavior. Today's world is so different in so many aspects. I had the opportunity to be a witness of many of the changes. I noticed that I enjoy the raw pleasures that were those available to me several decades ago. My association with joy remained unabashed throughout the years. I wonder what the newer generations will enjoy doing tomorrow? riding a V11 or getting therapy?

Yeah, man, the drop difference is stunning, really. Yes, mine is a PC545 lying on the rubber mat (standard, not a steel case Odyssey). It is because the drop includes the thickness of the basket tabs + the welded-on subframe "nuts" + the thickness of the subframe plate. The drop is dramatic. Biggest concern was fouling the shock travel. No issues here after "all this time." (Yet, I do run an Öhlins shock and higher spring rate that brings the rear ride height up.)

Mine with the Odyssey battery and std mounting. I dont understand docc how you can gain so much height reduction by mounting the tray under the fwd mount. That should only be worth 3mm max. Is yours a steel cased Odyssey? Mine has a new battery rubber tray as well. Note also the different front corner shape between the 2 tail fairings. The later style is more rounded at the front which I hadn't noticed untill seeing both images together. Didn't notice it on my late model spare, not that I've looked at it for a few years.

You will not find it if you do not look for it ......

You can inspect your seat pan underside for chaffing. Look for a fine white dust of polymer on the underside of the seat pan, the relay tops/corners, the top of the battery case, and any impression or damage to the battery hold-down strap. I recontoured my original pan pretty aggressively with a Dremel and sanding drum as well as performing the battery basket drop.

IIRC, the relief areas molded into the bottom of the seat pan changed. Very common for early seats to press upon the battery sometimes causing battery failure. They have also been known to cut into the battery hold-down strap and press upon the relays. Mounting the battery basket beneath the subframe yields an astounding amount of clearance (like 5/8" ... 16mm).

My greenie is fitted with a later seat. Both fit but the later seat fits better with more under seat clearance than the earlier seat on my bike. The area around the battery is very tight and even a few mm makes a difference. Ciao

+1, again, with LuckyPhil. This one, yes, @deadpen69?

hilarious especially the overtaking of the bus ! That is so Nordschleife Nürburgring ! Seriously - i would never dare to ride there with my skills i would be dead crashing the infamous bus or some wannabee jeremy clarkson in his car. HAPPY NEW YEAR ! and thanks for the warm welcome

Dear me. That Scura/ image/setting is gorgeous. It certainly compares to the very first image posted in this thread by @Orson in 2005 . . . Magnificent V11!!

ST3 is in a totally different class, more like a comfortable sport bike with luggage hung on as an afterthought. Quicker turning and peppier. The Norge is like a Griso with full fairings. Solid handling but not built for tight twisties at speed, nice torque from low on rpm's. Drop it down two gears and the acceleration for passing, etc is perfectly fine.

Happy holidays to all. Santa didn't give me improved electrical connections on my Guzzi, so I'm gonna have to do it myself. I guess he knew better than to open that can of worms....😅

Hi, allow me to step in and add some comments. If I mentioned a valve play of 0,3mm for the V11 camshaft, then I made a mistake. The V11 camshaft is well designed and doesn't need any additional play to overcome (too) long slopes. The 0,3mm are recommended for all OEM pre-CARC camshafts, as they have a tremendously long slope. As a result the valves are slightly open for more than 100° CW before the actual opening cycle, with the accompanying loss of pressure in the combustion chamber and increased valve temperature for lack of cooling time with the valves connecting to the seat. My recommended settings for the bypass screws and CO trim are only intended to simplify the usage of the BIN with different engines than mine. CO trim can be set accurately, but many seem to have problems adjusting it with GuzziDiag while the engine is running. I always choose the easier path of directly modifying the CO trim values in the EEPROM. The bypass screws are more problematical, as my 1/2 turn opening might be your 1/2+1/16 turn opening. They are not graduated. The impact of CO trim (+/- fuel) and bypass (+/- air) is most pronounced a low TPS settings. So the idea is to avoid this potential pitfall, especially the potential mis-syncing of both cylinders. My BIN is based on AFR measurements and my targeted AFR targets for the respective breakpoints. (Btw, I've revisited the 15M and to a lesser degree the 15RC code and found that the code contains a calculation which causes CO trim to taper off and disappear at 3000rpm) Some may remember that the measuring and logging on the V11 was done with highly dissatisfying equipment form Innovate. I eventually switched to Zeitronix, ZT2 and 3, which are much better, for my efforts with the Jackal and Norge. As this is mostly finished I moved the equipment to the V11 and started re-measuring it. The result is here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nIzV4LkFXJUyDMalLagnWb6c9I_0R0Bt/view?usp=sharing Changes versus the 93_6 BIN are fuel values (improved AFR synchronicity between the cylinders) and changed ignition values (the engine runs less harshly in the 4-5k rpm/~15-30° TPS area. I will continue to work on the ignition, but since I have no means of measuring the effect except for my seat-of-pants, this is the area where the biggest remaining improvements are hidden. I've also noticed that, after re-working the butterfly valves and the shafts, there's an much larger than expected discrepancy between fuel values over the first two TPS breakpoint columns. As I intend to open the engine anyway to inspect the valves, I'll revisit the throttle bodies as well. This is mostly a cosmetic issue, the bike runs splendidly. But first the rebuild of the Mille GT (change to a BMW K100 fork with 41,3mm diameter instead of 35mm, new camshaft, improving the valve timing, ....) and the SPIII rebuild after I was crashed by a young Italian lady in the hills above Genua have to be finished. Cheers Meinolf

OK, kinda dumb lazy question here, should my 2003 LM have an O2 sensor installed? I just yesterday removed the PCIII, replugged the ECU wiring back into the 15M ECU. Going to "try" to run the GuzziDiag and see if I can work thru/get system at least up/running to check a few parameters. Not going to make any changes though. Bike ran very well 4k to redline. Coughs, spits, stutters surges below 4K when off throttle or transitioning up/down. Idles fine. (Valves in spec, TB s balanced, air bleed screws cleaned, new plugs, new NGK plug wires, new OMRON relays (all 5), fuel filter and pump appear ok, clean K&N air filter properly oiled, intake box cleaned of smudge, intake boots appear OK)

Yeah, that was me. If your seat latch is real bugger to turn w/ the key and your fast idle lever keeps backing off while the bike is idling on the sidestand, they got the springs switched at the factory. That's my theory and I'm sticking with it, esp. since once I swapped them the seat is fairly easy to pop on & off and the fast idle stays set...

According to Harper's fiche they changed from 99 to 00 as well.