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After a year on this very informative site, I finally figured how to load a photo. It's a 2000 V 11 Sport. It has 41500 on it and is solid. Bought January 2021. Someone asked why I bought it? Reply; It's sex on toast! LOL I am the third owner. Second owner is a friend. He bought it with 850 miles. He had it shipped to Oregon 20 years ago. He moved North and asked if I would mind riding it to its new home. Really twisted my arm. So, when he decided to sell, I said I'll take it. I have been riding BMW/Suzuki Dual sports since 1995. Clunky dual sport boots don't work very well on the V11. Found a pair of road boots and have enjoyed riding this machine. Added a pair of risers [some shop out of Houston] and longer brake/clutch lines. It's a kit. Really helped with comfort. Bike has several custom features: carbon fibre front fender, bikini fairing, cowl, titanium exhaust, headers and silencers, plus all stock parts and records from new. The seat isn't that bad! I love how the engine revs up to 7000 rpm and just pulls. Might be the sound... LOL

That looks like a worthy project. If engine paint isn't bubbling now, it was probably redone by Moto Guzzi. The oil on the final drive is likely due to over-filling. From the pics, I'd guess the breather vent is the source of the mess. Those foot-forward, highway pegs? Wow. Personally, I'd remove those immediately. If you decide to freshen it up, I have a lot of stuff from a Champagne LeMans that I ended up stripping. The frame plates and rockers covers look fabulous in candy-apple red next to the champagne paint. If the fairing damage is more than you want to deal with, you could convert to a sport headlight with or without a flyscreen.

Hello, all. twhitaker's old champagne V11 lemans has arrived at its new home in Happy Valley, Pennsylvania; stable mates with Tenni #112, a G5, and a couple Beemers (the F800GS being the odd duck of the bunch). Many thanks to Tom Witt who went above and beyond in: 1) Letting this process drag out over a month while we navigated the holiday season and other priorities 2) Traveling a couple hours east to deliver the bike to my waiting trailer 3) Providing extra bits, a brand new, still wrapped front tire and even retrieving a nice set of prok chops he'd already parted with (to a local friend who was apparently willing to part with them himself) to sweeten the deal a bit It will take me some time figure out what I purchased, and I will start a new thread where I can take advantage of all the knowledge -- and good humor (I'm going to need it -- this bike is pretty rough) -- of the community. Cheers, Frey

They are used but in very useable condition. Zippers work fine. Comes with the support structure. 200$ Cad I live in vancouver / Canada

I purchased an '02 Lemans and it came with a couple boxes of stuff. The P.O. (x2) apparently had several Guzzis, including a Centauro and some sort of V11 EV. The boxes contained a mish-mash of the parts for (at least) those three bikes. I want to get rid of that stuff that I don't need for a Lemans. Most of it I haven't bothered to identify through fiche or otherwise. I will post a couple pics here. Happy to answer any questions, take additional pictures, make measurements, etc., if that will help you identify/confirm the piece you're interested in. I don't feel like spending the time and effort to price items. You pay shipping. I'll gladly accept good karma, in-kind, or non-tax-deductable charitable contributions to the "restore the knackered goose fund". Items are believed to include: Centauro clutch cable with rubber lever boot (new) Centauro clutch cable without boot (new) Centauro speedo cable (new) What appears to be a Magni (or similar, or knock-off) fairing windscreen (pictured below): More to come....

Magni's screens are very thin, depending more on shape than material for rigidty. I can't comment on the V11 fairing but on the Magni bikes I own, when you order a screen it comes with only the center hole drilled at the front, the rest is up to you. It's tricky as the screen has to be shaped to mate with the fairing which changes the hole locations a little, the screen is in compression when it's on the fairing and both fairing and screen change shape as you install it. It's very easy to drill them then find they don't fit or stress the screen too much and crack the bloody thing....................NO don't ask!! What I've done in the past was to drill the holes in pairs, so mount the screen with the center hole locating screen to fairing, then drill the pair next out from center. Repeat for the next pair, then the pair after that until working towards the outer edges until you're finished. EDIT Just to add that after I drilled each pair of holes I then bolted them into position, before marking off the next pair. Then you unbolt the screen drill the holes and then bolt all the holes drilled to the fairing before marking off the next pair. Trying to mark them all off at once usually doesn't end well..............and don't ask me how I know that either It's an utter pain!!!

If you find the spade connector on the solenoid loose thats a sure sign it has been overheating due to resistance. The metal has annealed loosing tension. Replace the spade connector and don't forget to apply some Vaseline to the wire before you crimp it on. On many Guzzi's this wire from the relay to the solenoid is too small, you can easily lose a Volt and 10 Amps at the solenoid right there, a 16 gauge or metric equivalent is about right. On my 06 Griso I up-sized this wire one size, the time to engage the starter dropped from 50 milliseconds down to 15

ya think? haha, and welcome

That gear looks like a transmission input hub. If so, that one might be worth trying to identify.

You’ve already got a Tenni… so makes sense keep that fairly original. 👍 If I had a scruffy 2nd V11 without the emotional attachment - I’d feel free to do any goddamn change I ever fancied… To hell with stock - when you’ve got two have some fun & hop it up! Experiment anywhere along the range between GB Trofeo & Church of Choppers! You might end up with something you love even more than your stock Tenni! 👍😎

There just are not any "classified ads" like this, anywhere . . . Page one: member @Randy (South'nSpineRaider) posts a random CL ad. (Comment and concern follow). Page two: We discover the passing of our longtime member : twhitaker Page three: This V11LeMans finds a new home and our honorable @witttom respects us with the outcome . . . [edit: same page @FreyZI chimes in and invites us to join his new venture!]

Its probably not the solenoid, the wiring is not delivering enough current. You only hear the relay under the seat because the solenoid is not getting enough current to start it moving. (I should add the solenoid plunger could be stuck if its gummed up with grease, I just use a couple of drops of 3 in 1) Do the simple test of hot wiring the solenoid from the battery, if it's easier take the starter relay out and touch a wire from the 87 contact to the battery Positive. You don't need the key On to try that but do make sure the bike is in neutral. If it cranks with the jumper there is no reason for it not to crank when its wired right. You might find its harder to get started in cold weather, I put it to you that the grease inside the ignition switch is much stiffer holding the contacts apart, try flicking the switch back and forth a few times to see if it improves.. The real fix is to provide the start relay with a direct feed from the battery, not quite as easy on the Spine frame bikes because they use the normally closed start contact to power up the headlight relay, If you power up the 30 terminal the headlight will go when the key is off. There are several ways around this but i'm now in favour of adding another relay beside the solenoid triggered from the original trigger wire. The relay contacts go between the large positive post and the spade connector. A 20 Amp in-line fuse can be added between the positive post and relay terminal 30. p6x, its Startus Interuptus in this case (insufficient solenoid current) but when you clean the battery terminals don't forget the main ground at the gearbox and always use a little Vaseline to keep the contacts clean free from corrosion. Update, p6x, I suspect it's worse when cold because the grease inside the ignition switch is stiffer trending to hold more tension off the contacts, if you take the switch apart you will see this. Fresh Vaseline is much softer so it can flow out of the way, You could remove all the grease and leave it dry but then the contacts would vanish in no time flat. Electricians have been using Petroleum jelly aka Vaseline on sliding contacts for 100 years. Its not just your VII that suffers from this ailment, The Brevas large and small are well known for it, later 8 Valve CARC bikes, the earlier 4 Valve CARC bikes had direct wiring. The modern bikes like V7s don't seem to be suffering yet but I suspect that's just age, they all have a similar 2 coil solenoid wired through the switch. "Moto Guzzi, making Electricians out of riders since 1921."

I suppose that is what concerned me: T Whitaker joined here January, 2003, and last visited in 2018. RIP, Terry. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/profile/197-twhitaker/