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Visited the MEBC today (Moto Euro Breakfast Club). Check out the lovely new MV Augusta Turismo Veloce Lusso. Bodywork is the same color as my Scura's frame plate. And let's not ignore the Brutale 1090 hiding behind that...

Well... I am certainly not going about this project in the optimal order. After getting a lot of stuff "finalized" on the bars I remembered to check the steering bearings. They had a spot where they settled. The bottom bearing was almost totally dry and felt crunchy rotating it by hand. And look at the wear pattern in the race. New bearings, along with a better steering damper, should be a big improvement for handling and safety.

Here's my 2021 patch and rocker, and I have enrolled again for 2022; hopefully, I will be able to do the 50 stops this year. If you check the 2022 tour stops, you will find that the organizer used one of my photo submission to mark the location. Stop #4; If the fancy was to take you, the tour portal is here! there is collection of photos video made from the 2021 tour participants. If you watch until the end, there is a majority of touring bikes; I did not see any other Moto Guzzi. Anyway, I will bore you with my reports when the tour starts in March. See you then?

You can't gp by model year . You have to know internal/external fuel pump , large/small diameter forks and I am leaving out plenty . I ordered a bunch of seal , bushing mess for my bike to find out it was all wrong . 2002 forks on an 03 bike . These model year designations are "for entertainment purposes only" .

@footgoose This is exactly like that add for the Michelin Road 6; we are the best because we are telling you we are... Even top notch workshop can mess up. My company copied airline maintenance playbooks; where everything is done according to check lists, and verified independently. Trying to remove the human error factor by writing and optimizing procedures. Obviously, what goes on for aircraft maintenance is not applied by motorcycle shops. At least in my case, there is only one guy who works on Guzzi bikes. One and there are no roustabout or roughneck to take care of the nitty gritty. The guy does everything by himself.

Exactly. While traveling I stopped into a reputable BMW/Euro bike shop in Denver to have a set of tires installed and oil change. Luckily I pulled in for lunch about 30 mi down the road. In turning the behemoth K1200rs around in the gravel lot I heard a rattle. The front caliper bolts were coming out! The body panel fasteners had not been snugged! WTf? I was far too angry to go back but I had to call them. Truth told, reputation or not, you're at the mercy of whoever actually does the work, often a contractor who may or may not possess a sense of responsibility. I do everything I can, myself (+forum) and anything I cannot do goes, for now, to Cadre Cycles Cincinnati, just because their good character is so obvious, and the shop sound was tuned to Hank Williams radio.

This is not the video , but this is the song . It was played at the end of a VH1 documentary about this band . IDK if other cultures appreciate the magnitude of southern Bands or not . I hope so . This is best played through headphones at the end of the day !

This makes me feel less reticent about waiting so impatiently to get my family fiddle back from a trusted and renowned Nashville luthier. These magical touches upon our "instruments" take time and care.

Yes that's spring that breaks. that thread gives some early forum history of the problem and contains a link to the roadside repair as well FreyZ1 ... if the spring under the seat has only one coil then it's another one to not be trusted. 2 coils and it's the new improved spring. Owners who had not yet replaced theirs, often carried an extra to ward off bad ju ju and have one handy in case of emergency need.

Good research. If you have a moment, maybe you could list the Moto Guzzi and Aprilia part numbers in the Encyclopedia of Compatible Parts.

I do my own Luthier work on my guitars. But working on a violin requires a lot more skills, such as cabinetry practice. In all fairness, all the trust you place in a workshop to do the right thing on your motorbike is always difficult to verify. Subjective at most. It is all about reputation. But how does it translate to the one single mistake that is going to bum you off? I would rather do my own work, but I need to be realistic. I cannot justify purchasing workshop equipment that I will use very few times. When my bike is away at a shop, I have no basis to verify what is done is according to my high standards. Are they changing all the gaskets and O'rings and fasteners as I would want them to do? are they meticulous? attention to detail, quality before anything else? I don't know. I would feel better if I could witness them doing the job, but for "safety" reasons, I cannot. "We have 30 years of experience"... what does that mean? who has? and even with 30 years of experience, since have evolved. What you were good at before may not have carried forward with the changes in technology, unless you have trained yourself at the same pace. I had that a lot in my job. You would be getting a guy that would bust his experience such as "20 years of North Sea" oilfield, and failed immediately once he got into an area that was different from what he had seen before. At this moment, I have no better alternative than to go with "we have experience". I cannot verify it personally. I have experience too, because I have lived enough to have acquired some kind of wisdom, no matter what they say. I still learn new things everyday, and look forward to enrich myself more...

Started with a '97 and shed 116lb. There's still some life left in the old spine frames. Looks great too.

Zappa lyrics come to mind with the "sex on toast" riff. "Sir Richard Pump-a-loaf, a demented bread boffer.....still better than polishing electrical connections....maybe....word association gumbo.

If one replaces the factory single plater with the NLA RAM 6speed single plater, the existing rod and bearing are in the bike already and will work. Replacing the factory single plater with the available RAM single for 5speed works as KINDOY2 points out. Replacing the factory single with the factory dual plate clutch is covered somewhere in past forum threads. IIRC the whole stock 6speed dual plate set up is used. So yes, you would not use the push rod from the single plate if going with dual. There is a difference in the distance between the clutch slave and the clutch plate spring cup. Someone help confirm please. FWIW I've measured the clutch actuating rod from my parts bike, a 2003 dual plate.. It measures 203mm, 8mm from cup end to step down at slave end which is 6mm. I don't have a length for the oem single plate rod. Maybe someone has one out.

Ah, yes, an aware owner and a "talisman spring." The Real-Deal SuperSpring (accept no substitutes):

Don't go into your bathroom. In case there's a "Fat Man in the Bath Tube" .... he might be checking the oil but "it's all right, it's just clean fun". That powder on the floor ain't BAB-O either

Congestion on the road from Mt Aspiring

If they don't leak, why mess with them? Pretty sure mine are an integral part of the head by now . . .

That looks like a worthy project. If engine paint isn't bubbling now, it was probably redone by Moto Guzzi. The oil on the final drive is likely due to over-filling. From the pics, I'd guess the breather vent is the source of the mess. Those foot-forward, highway pegs? Wow. Personally, I'd remove those immediately. If you decide to freshen it up, I have a lot of stuff from a Champagne LeMans that I ended up stripping. The frame plates and rockers covers look fabulous in candy-apple red next to the champagne paint. If the fairing damage is more than you want to deal with, you could convert to a sport headlight with or without a flyscreen.

Hey Scud seeing you have the wave front disk and you need to replace the rear why not use one of these. Galfer P/N DF005W https://www.vividracing.com/galfer-front-brake-disc-honda-silverwing-400-p-152495773.html Ciao

Making some progress: Disassembled and cleaned ignition and starter switches, and various other electrical connections Got a bunch of powercoated parts installed, including the top triple clamp (steering bearing had almost no grease) Noticed rear brake disc is badly worn (thanks to the sintered pads...) Plastic T lamp holder is barely holding itself together (fortunately I had a new one already tucked away) Cleaned injector and throttle bodies (god I hate those tiny screws that hold the injectors in) UFI oil filter characteristically left the O-ring stuck in the engine. There's a Wix in there now. Still waiting on some goodies... but the Speedhut gauges have shipped. Looking forward to getting those in place. Thinking about gloss black powdercoat for the wheels. Building a list of little bits needed from Harpers.

While the sideplate is off, you could burnish the edges of the cam tracks in the cam wheels. I think Pete Roper suggested this. Then I shimmed the cam wheels inwards to maximize engagement with the shift fork pegs.

Sir_Scud: one of V11LeMans.com's many Member Emeritus. The combination of that Chuck (another M.E. ) engineered spring and the roller bearing, combined with (M.E.) Lucky Phil"s "V11 Shift Improvement" makes the V11 6speeder a delight. Don't neglect the benefits of grooming the external rear-set shift mechanism. Scud, buddy, you rock!

Curiosity got the best of me. I wanted to know what spring was in there, and I wanted to see the weld from the inside. It's a magnificent bit of welding. I also imagined how I would feel if the spring broke in middle of the Mojave Desert. Cover popped off easily, so should be good to go. As you can see above, the "improved" spring is already fatigued. And I have no shortage of truly improved springs. I also picked up a 20-pack of bearings that replace the detent roller. Apparently, these are a common size for skateboards so they were cheap. Next few buyers of shift springs get a free bearing till I run out. An in other news... the Bitubo damper had a bad crunchy spot in the middle of travel. But the Ohlins is butter-smooth the whole way. I have not yet removed a Bitubo that was still operating well - they all have that crunchy, sticky spot.

Those side covers can be stubborn. I can see how you could crack one in a removal attempt, especially if an extra-strong adhesive was used. And somebody who worked on this bike in the past wanted things to stay put. For example, the torx-headed bolts for the frame plates had a ton of loc-tite on them, then they used lock washers AND nylock nuts. What a bitch those were... I reverted to stock fasteners. As for the spring... this bike was owned by at least two previous forum members. And I've sent out a lot of springs to various places so one could have found it's way to this bike. I'm gonna leave it till it breaks (maybe never) since it already shifts well and it's not leaking. I don't feel like tempting fate with a previously cracked cover, and possibly super-adhesive. But I will carry a spare spring, just in case.

And here is some clean up... and installed the powder coated subframe and candy-apple red plates. Popped the tranny vent in the ultrasonic cleaner, removed drive shaft for complete service, etc. etc. etc. Good thing it's been rainy here. More rain tomorrow. More "rainy-day" projects...

So, the replacement master cylinder (from a wrecked '02 LeMans with 9713 miles) is installed and holding pressure. What a major PITA to get it to prime and bleed. Apparently, the hose connecting the reservoir, and that barbed angle fitting, to the M/C is a nasty air trap. Thanks @MartyNZ for the tip! You're a bright cadre of lads, yah? WTH, we cannot figure out a rebuild for our Brembo® front brake master cylinder? Same master cylinder for the entire V11 series?

Did you unbolt the M/C off the bars docc with the cap off and rotate it upwards ( so the lever is higher than the banjo bolt and gently actuate the lever slightly? This will break free any bubbles at the banjo bolt joint which will now be the low and not the high point and you will see the bubbles appear in the reservoir. Air in the system will give you a spongy lever but not generally a "creeping" lever. Ciao

Yep, the "hairline" cracks on the intake rubbers are commonly superficial. Until they are not . . . (Still hoping my months-old Harper backorder will, one day, come through . . . )