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I'm tired of buying one O-ring at a time and the associated hassle of finding the correct one. So I am hoping to stock up and save... and more importantly have them on hand when needed. As I understand it, Nitrile is most commonly used, but it degrades quickly, which is why many of have replaced the timing sensor o-ring on multiple occasions, and why we constantly lose the little bugger that serves as a brake pedal bumper. And Viton is a brand name, while FKM is the generic name for material used in Viton O-rings. And apparently FKM lasts longer in chemicals and sunlight. This is what I think I know, so please feel free to correct me. I'm looking at this set of 386 O-rings in 30 Metric sizes. Amazon link here. Does this seem like it would cover the majority of O-ring needs for our V11s? Any other recommended sets or sources that would be better?

Ok...bit of a ride to Taupo the other day. Another nice one

Let's work with an example; When you change the oil filter on a V11, lets take the oil filter access cover oring. I have that oring on hand, so I can measure it with my vernier caliper; The o'ring cross-section is 3.5mm; which correspond to 3.53mm from the table. Measuring the ID is a bit more difficult, but it is around 95mm; the closest I get is 94.84mm from the table. It corresponds to Parker size 2-240. On a funny note, if I was still in my company, I could use a B-17308 o'ring; which is the reference my company gave to that o'ring size, for our application. Most likely a Viton o'ring because our tools are submitted to high pressures. Nitrile would deform and leak. Let's go to the Parker site; for this o'ring size; I select Nitrile and 70 durometer; the cheapest. Since this o'ring is just sealing one direction and temperature is below 250F, I would not need Viton. I have ran oil field tools in oil wells for 35 years, and changing o'rings after each run. That oring costs 3.64 USD at MG-Cycle currently. So the biggest job, is to find the size of the o'rings you want to stock. Use the Parker sizing tool which is easier than my tables. We had those tables back then, because we did not always have maintenance manuals, so we had to find o'rings using cross references and/or sizes.

Viton and FKM orings have there place, so are excellent in gasoline and withstand high temps up to 200 dec C fine however they have inferior cold weather performance compared to Nitrile. Nitrile are fine for most things not engine related. Be also aware that components designed for nitrile orings can't always accept FKM due to slight sizing differences between the 2. A small dimensional difference on the oring groove makes can make the difference between fitting and not useable. The manual fuel tap issue is a case in point, there was no FKM size that would translate to the standard fuel tap piston nitrile oring grooves and the grooves needed to be modified a little to take the FKM seals. Ciao

I have a couple of boxes of nitrile o-rings, but no matter what, I still have to go out to the local seal shop for a specific size that I don't have. I stopped being so picky about buying OEM o-rings after a visit to Moto International in Seattle USA. I asked for seals on the fuel injectors. The parts guy grabbed an old injector from their workshop, then pulled the right size seals from an assortment box. Then I realized that Moto Guzzi would use standard sizes where possible to keep the costs down. As for FKM, yes it can be better (but more expensive) in some applications, but since I see nitrile lasting 20 years, a new nitrile seal should last another 20 years.

Quite the education on O-rings. And I know that in high-reliability environments (mining, aviation, etc.), a mistake can be costly or deadly (Space Shuttle Challenger explosion). But for hobbyist like me, seems that just ordering from MG Cycle or Harpers is the solution. That said, I accept the challenge of finding the correct O-ring for the driveshaft. I have a spare with a broken O-ring, so will order all the O-rings that are close to its size and see what works. Seems like Nitrile would be fine for that application, FKM might last longer.

Have been meaning to post this for a couple weeks, and seems like a good follow-up to Kiwi_Roy's post above. I made the ground from my new ElectroSport unit as shown. I believe the wire is 14 ga., and I did sand off the paint at the connection point. Please note this photo is taken from below looking up - the wires aren't really visible from standing position. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

@Scud The size is normalized. Parker is an o'ring supplier from which we got all our o'rings. There are different Nitriles strength. Viton is more resilient to temperature. Here's a link to the Parker website which will ultimately help you finding whatever o'ring you need: http://solutions.parker.com/ORingSelector

Well, it’s “Ground Hog Day” here in The States and everyone knows what that means. 💨 Halfway through winter and time to think about riding !

That's one mod I am definitely doing when the rear wheel needs a new tyre.

Don't know if this helps, but there is an O-ring specialist in the Czech Republic (Bohemia Seal). They stock an amazing variety of sizes and materials in O-rings and all manner of seals. They sell primarily on eBay. They came to my rescue when I needed a very specific O-ring for a SRAM 9.0 rear derailleur I was modifying. https://www.ebay.com/str/bohemiasealoring/O-ring-inner-dia-from-10-to-20/_i.html?store_cat=25950217018

I followed your advice and added to it. I have the std ground from batt to tranny, then a second wire, same gauge goes from the tranny bolt to a point on the frame, and a third (duplicate of the battery grnd) from the frame point to the R/R case. So basically same gauge wire from the battery to the R/R, stopping off at 2 points. All scraped and scrubbed and DeOxit'd, with soldered connectors. I'm with ya maybe it doesn't do much but when you're talking about "maybe it's grounded and maybe it's not," then maybe over kill is in order.

It may also be worth noting our V11 frame is not directly grounded. The battery grounds to the very important main ground on the back of the gearbox and the harnesses ground back to the battery through individual ring terminals. When I grounded my regulator case to the timing chest, I also put a strap from there to the spine frame. Perhaps it doesn’t really do anything, but I figured it couldn't hurt.

You can see from the picture the bolt and spring clip do a very poor job of grounding the regulator, there's up to 30 Amps flowing between the painted metal bracket and the case, also I believe that bracket is bolted to the chassis with painted to painted surface, your beefy jumper wire at least has a fighting chance. I hope you used some form of corrosion inhibitor. I have in the past suggested that an aluminium strap could be used instead of copper wire cutting down on the number of different materials. I'm guessing you used an ESR515 which has no ground wire.

https://www.bikeexif.com/ghezzi-brian-moto-guzzi-1100

Wow - should be able to find anything there... but I was kind of hoping that most O-rings on the bike would be a standard size and that I could order an assortment and be likely to have whatever sizes I would need in future. Do you think that's realistic? But there is one very thin O-ring I would like to find - the one that seals the two halves of the driveshaft. Parker looks like a promising supplier.

Great excitement to get an email form "Giuseppe Caruso" saying that the gear manufacturer is hoping to deliver our V11 gear sets at the end of February. I am not sure if these are all built-to-order and spoken for, or if there are any additional sets available. Reach out to Joe Caruso if interested . . . joe.caruso@ntlworld.com

The early 1999-2001 RedFrame/Rosso Mandello Parts Catalog does show two different sets of triple clamps. "Up to frame KR113031 (T3)" an "From frame KR 113032 (T4)" (The Rosso Mandello were all in the later frame range and their part numbers differ for their black coloration.) I am certainly vague on the "T3/T4" designation and makes me wonder about "T1/T2" . . .

Great to see you here again PaulM. and happy you are well. Are there any more details on the "other offset triple clamps were part of it" as in - were there two different triples for the early red frames?

No, going to use aftermarket cartridges with rebound in one leg and comp in the other. These later forks are rebound only adjustment. Ciao

The red frame v11 sport (KR) got some bad reviews in Germany and other places, because not as other old Guzzis, it wasn't so stable. They were delivered with 170 wide tire on 4,5", what is a to wide tire for the rim. And that makes the tire shape to pointy. German tuner Dynotec made a corrected version of the first gen V11 sport, other offset triple clamps were part of it. But in Italy, Aprilia just owned Moto Guzzi, and didn't want the bad publicity so they took drastic measures. The second generation(KS) got a wide tire rear, the popular 180/55 on a 5,5"rim. The area between swingarm and gearbox got a extra steel rods to make it stiffer. with extension to the engine crank case. The front engine mount was reinforced. And the steeringhead was extended to have more wheelbase. The third generation(KT) kept same geometry but got optical tweaks and the 43mm forks where this subject is about. Not all changes occurred at the same time, first mount old stock before making new. It has been always the same. The Dynotec v11 http://www.dynotec.de/presse/DynotecV11_2000MO.html

That "Viton" addition is very important in my experience. A PO of my bike installed a non-oil-compatible o-ring there, which had swollen so much it pushed the sensor far enough off the phonic wheel to not make the engine run properly >3k rpm anymore. Took me ages to find the cause...

Visited the MEBC today (Moto Euro Breakfast Club). Check out the lovely new MV Augusta Turismo Veloce Lusso. Bodywork is the same color as my Scura's frame plate. And let's not ignore the Brutale 1090 hiding behind that...

IMHO you must provide a decent ground cable to the regulator case, all the current that passes through the red wire to the battery has to find its way back from chassis to the regulator case, the tiny black wire all the way back to the battery doesn't cut it. The Ducati Energia regulator doesn't directly control the battery Voltage, it regulates the Voltage between its black wire and case ground to 13.8 Volts so if the case is not connected to battery negative properly the Voltage you drop between negative and the case is lost. Probably when the bike was new it made fairly good contact to chassis but as it ages it has to rely more and more on the thin black wire. The path through the engine to the main ground connection to the battery is many times better than the black wire. A short heavy wire from the regulator case to a timing cover bolt is a vast improvement. I have even suggested using an aluminium strap in place of a wire with suitable grease to stop corrosion of course.

Cool! 7.5 amps should be adequate. 13.28v at idle looks fine, but should increase to 14.2v at even 2002-2500 rpm and stay stable as the rpm increases. "Discharge before charging" for best results . . . monitor voltage while charging with any external charger: it should never exceed 15.0v or "float" below the 13.5-13.8v range. -> NEVER below 13.2v!

You should get the spacer too . When you do this , fill the bearing with a GOOD grease . It seems as though all bearings have just enough grease to keep them from rusting . Bearings like this (minor movement) should be filled completely on installation .

That's nasty. Some of these sound an awful lot like Aggie jokes (Texas A&M= Aggies). You heard about the tragedy that happened on the A&M campus? It was awful, the library burnt down. They lost everything...... both books.... one of wasn't even colored in yet.