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Got the freshly painted tank and fly screen back this afternoon. I’m happy, both to have it done and with the results. As known, the paint is tricky to match, not being a basic color, so i was only cautiously optimistic about how it would turn out, and I’d say it met or slightly exceeded my expectations, and is a “win” overall. When turning the newly painted tank, or the old side covers, at different angles in different light you get a real different look to the paint, part of what makes it neat, and hard to match. As noted earlier, the side covers i bought used and have some UV aging, the pilion cover and fenders are stock on my bike but were exposed to more UV and other bad things than they should have been, and now the tank and fly screen are new paint. They all match nicely, especially when considering all that. I’ll post the paint code for anyone interested. But first some pics (apparently i still haven’t figured out the proper way to post pics… but here we go:) Notice how even the pics look different, in the same place with same light but taken at different angles.

I gotta love how nervous Mike Campbell gets with the hapless bassplayer, then gives him the , "Yo, bud, we're in > F <" signal at 1:33 . . .

And the paint code formula. My boys used Spies Hecker, but it can be easily translated to Dupont or others.

I can say that new cable works fine. I had to slightly bend the metal tube at the gear box end so it had clearance around the rod between the 2 fuel injection bodies

Seems like a number of us, myself included have recently been bitten by the record player bug again, after a lapse of 40+ years! Gone are the long scratched, warped by the sun CSNY records of my childhood which played every day by the cool hippies in the house up front while we lived in Santa Barbara, or the bumpy and faded Bob Marley albums of the early to mid 70's that were simply worn out from so many playings! I recall these guys working on their long nose Jaguars (XKE??) while playing CSNY over and over again! My dad used to listen to the albums of the San Remo festivals as well, fun albums! https://store.acousticsounds.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAmKiQBhClARIsAKtSj-nQx_nKmnkZCvXJkqF-3HDBmD1NSY7lN6Xfs7EBk67AfbbXr_-GIYYaAt1iEALw_wcB I have been buying some vinyl from Acoustic Sounds over the last couple of months of a few of my favorite albums, don't plan to restock all my streaming and CD's, but a few special ones, with favorite glass of whiskey or tequila certainly does accompany the music nicely, especially flowing thru the exquisite B&W's & Rotel combo. The only thing I had to do was by a Cambridge audio pre-amp since my receiver was built during that 20 year period when no phono feature was incorporated.

I really didn't want to ever have to post this thread here, but the truth is that I don't appreciate this bike the way others would. Since I inherited it, I've ridden less than 50 miles and I've held onto it for the sentimental value, but I feel like it's time to let it go to a home of someone who can fully appreciate it. It has 8,778 miles on the odometer. My dad cycled between 7 bikes and after he got sick, the one that was easiest to get out of the garage saw all the action. I took ownership in 2014 and rode it a handful of times while paying insurance on it the entire time. It's never been down and is exactly as was left to me. I'm trying to get my place ready to move and would like for it to end up in someone's hands sooner than later. Feel free to contact me with offers. I almost forgot, I believe there's another set of pipes in the crawl space but I haven't gotten there yet.

How can two different race bikes be number 21? Is the whole field numbered 21? Chris.

I've always liked this colour. Even looks great on a car. Ciao

A dollar for anyone that can find me in the crowd

That "odometer transmission"/"odometer gear" (GU04762500) looks to be an assembly of five parts: the screw-in "housing", gear driven shaft, two thrust/shimming/striker washers, and the gear that drives the shaft. That last one . . . I guess mine is still rattling around in there . . .

I think these have already hit future classic status here in the UK, in the 7 years it was imported Yamaha only sold around 300 total. They are rarer than unicorns, Yamaha’s over optimistic pricing didn’t help, and it’s difficult to pigeonhole what Mr Max’s target market was. I enjoy it for the technical masterpiece that it was (and still is) at launch, I don’t have anything to prove, and my days of hooning around have long passed, it’s a pussycat under 4000 rpm

Hi folks. I would like to ditch the speedo drive and need a little advice on the best way to seal up the transmission case where drive was attached. Soon after getting my ‘01 V11 back on the road my speedo stopped working. When attached to a drill chuck the cable spins the speedo’s needle , so the problem must be the drive at the tranny. Anyway, I know that the plastic angled part is prone to failure, and replacements are expensive and hard to find (I think there is a Ducati part still available that is the same, but it’s like $70 +). Also my trip meter has never worked on my speedo, a stock white face Veglia. It would be really nice to have a trip meter! So, rather than sending the speedo off for repair, and dicking around with repairing/replacing the drive (which seems to be an endangered species), I am thinking of going the Speedhut GPS route. After removing the angled drive and the shaft piece, what I have left in place on the transmission case is the piece with the male thread that the angled drive and shaft attach to. I have not been able to find any parts diagrams that show this piece, and I am not really sure if it’s part of the drive as a whole, or what it is doing with the transmission. So, if I am going to eliminate the speedo drive from the top of the transmission case and go with a GPS speedo, do I simply cap off the top of the male threaded bit, or should I remove this piece from the transmission case? And if so, what can I expect to be taking out, are there any other pieces that need to come out? And lastly, what is the best thing to use to plug up the hole? I have seen many threads here on replacing the speedo, but have yet to find specific info on plugging up the case where the drive once was. Perhaps it’s so obvious that it goes without saying, and I am just a dullard with trepidations when it comes to doing anything that could result in drive bits being left behind and getting mixed up inside of the transmission. Thank you for any guidance and advice on this!

Well, the more I thought about, the more I thought it's going to be a PITA to strip out everything. No obvious issues with the rear drive; oil looked unremarkable. Plus, I don't have a ring nut socket and I don't want to start whacking the thing with a drift. Stopped by Adv. Auto on my way home from work today and picked up aircraft stripper and paint. I got the VHT wrinkle plus, thinking it may be a decent approximation of the original fuzzy finish. That said, I have reservations about the fuzzy finish and thought I might instead use a semi-gloss black to (try to) match the swingarm. I know there are some threads about the wrinkle/crinckle paint for the engine, but I haven't read up on them. I'll strip tonight and think about the paint some more... Happy to accept any thoughts on the paint options. Cheers!

Are you going to strip out all the gears, bearings and seals from that? I have simply stripped off the old paint and used engine case spray paint (rattle-can) for a couple final drives. They came out nicely. FWIW - I used VHT brand satin black. A semi-gloss might look even better. The driveshaft collars are an easy powder-coat. Bubbles... for Champagne... I like it.

Robert Cray . YEOW

I got an extra brace/bracket or two in red if anyone still needs one.

The special wascher are hardened steel waschers of 1,0mm thickness. (You can get them with a magnet) 1,0 + 1,0 = 2,0 (I have bought about 100 of these - so contact me if you need some). Since the inner and outher diameter are close to identical with a standard 6mm washer - DO NEVER USE ONE OF THEM! The standard wascher are 1,2mm thick. 1,2 + 1,2 = 2,4 THIS WILL SQUEESE THE AXLE SO THAT IT CANNOT ROTATE! 5- and 6-speed gearboxes uses the same technic, but the axle has different number of tooths.

Think it's already pretty clear and I'm not familiar with the 6 speed boxes, but the 2 washers AFAIK are shims and there to take up thrust loading on the helical drive. I don't think they are available as components separately. What happens on the 5 speed boxes, is the lower washer gets left in the bottom of the hole. The helical drive (the thrust washers locate on the top and bottom of that drive) are driven from a worm on the layshaft and is behind the main layshaft bearing. In order for the worm on the layshaft to drive the helical gear there is a cutout in the gearbox casing. If the washer is left in place vibration can (and usually does) allow the washer to move, it then gets caught on the helical drive. If you're lucky it get spun out into the bottom of the box where the chances are it won't do any harm and either get flushed out during an oil change or caught by the magnet. If you're unlucky it gets mashed and the pieces migrate into the large ball bearing supporting the layshaft and damage/deystroy it, or it slips further in to get mashed and grind away at the gears. Neither scenario will be inexpensive. The only reasons I can think why Rolf states to leave the assembly in there, are the already explained danger, or sealing to prevent water ingress. If the washers are removed and a flat rubber ring or even O ring used on the plug to eal it, then all should be good. My 1100 sport runs SpeedHut gauges and I removed the Gearbox internals, not had a problem.

Cross posted this to "How to . . ." Too great not to try and archive! Thanks, @Gmc28!

Not sure, either. Gotcha covered, bud.

Ha ha I wondered what was going on there.... Cheers Guzzler

Listening to Dennis Brain playing the Mozart Horn Concerti at the moment...what a genius he was, pure smoothness! Next up...a little Robert Cray (Strong Persuader), to be followed by Bob Marley, Live at the Rainbow, 1977, an epic recording!

docc, thank you very much for this illustrative post. It’s really helpful to see that part out of the gearbox. Things are much clearer now.

Egad! I think I am beginning to understand Rolf’s warning. Thank you!

And the Workshop Manual, Gearbox Disassembly N/3, page 4 (last step of 14): "Remove the odometer transmission "Q" [pictured bottom right of page 5] and keep the striker washer positioned inside the gearbox." (emphasis added by this poster.) So, yep, that little booger is down in there. Don't let it ruin your day!

In the gearbox assembly section (N) of the 1999-2001 Workshop Manual, Page 24, I see: " Fit the odometer transmission: Position the shimming washer using the special tool; "

Yeah, that’s the same diagram I saw, part #5. Didn’t realize that the two washers are included with #5. Hmmm.

Yes, you were very lucky! Kind of crazy how the washer settled onto the drain plug like that! It sounds like a thrust washer falling into the gearbox is a risk involved with removing that piece.

The washers are part of an assembly (odometer gear GU04762500) depicted in the 1999-2000 Parts Catalog under Frame/Dashboard (#5, below). I do believe I can make out those two washers, but it is vague . . .

Flat blade screwdriver, about a #2. Visible in the upper right of this image "Air Bypass Screw" (green arrow):

Yeah, I like the clean look of removing the drive and plugging the hole. The trouble is retrieving the lower thrust washer (I'll look for that on the parts diagram). This is how mine came out - the upper washer is visible, below, on the screw-in part that is inverted in this view. The lower washer, apparently, is below the geared shaft and did not pull out with it . . . I was VERY lucky that the lower thrust washer found its way to be captured, perfectly, on the gearbox magnetic drain plug, below:

@Rolf Halvorsen, thank you for this, and for the links and info on a simpler and better cable alternative to the problematic angle drive. Why do you say to not remove the male threaded part that comes out of the gearbox? If I am not going to use the speedometer cable drive, why not get the cleanest look for the gearbox by removing the part and plugging the hole with a simple filler plug? What’s the concern?

docc, thank you for that important information! I had looked at that thread but must have missed that post. When I pull the protruding drive component—the threaded male piece—from the gearbox will the two thrust washers come out with it, or will I need to somehow fish them out of the gearbox hole? Are they stacked upon each other or in different places? i don’t know why I can’t find a clear diagram of these pieces in the on-line parts catalogs. The “Dash” page shows the angle drive and the male threaded piece that comes out of the gearbox case, called an “odometer gear”, but no thrust washers. And the “Transmisson cage” page shows the view from the left side and even omits the oil filler plug. What am I missing? I am using the files on the AF1Racing site. Thanks, too, for posting the link for the cap to plug the hole. That looks like a clean option to match the oil filler plug.

Here in Florida where the morning dew is salty, I use silicone spray on the bare aluminum to eliminate white dusty corrosion and protect it.

The bags are Givi knock offs, the expandable type. Not the same quality as the hard bags on the Multi Strada. The the bolts in the brackets can shear. Most owners (myself included) have those bolts tapped to a larger size. Despite that, they can hold a fullface helmet (unlike a Goldwing) and are serviceable for most trips. Other than that, it's been as reliable as a Honda. By comparison, I've ridden the 2nd Gen SS and it's quite a bit more aggressive in the riding position vs the new bike. The new bike has a very comfortable seat and the riding position is more relaxed than the V11 Sport.

These are one of the few motorcycle that still look really attractive with factory panniers fitted. Very nice lines. Ciao

It's the most comfortable bike I own.

Thats the one! It looks better in your pic. The half fairing is actually really cool, but I still prefer red.

Here's my new version of the bike. I've got 22k miles on it.

If memory serves me it was a 98 or 99 with like 5000 miles and the guy wanted $3800. It sat on craigslist for a month in the middle of summer. I also love the late80's Gsx-R bikes with the big dual headlights. If the guy would have been selling one of these I might never have stumbled on to my v-11. I'm glad I got the Guzzi but this is one sexy bike.

Here's a tip before you write off any sealed bearing because it feels stiff esp after greasing. use a small screw driver watchmakers or tooth pick or similar and lift the grease fitting ball off it's seat a fraction and release any pressure in the bearing. Sometimes they will actually let out a pssst and shoot a little squirt of grease. The bearing will now turn freely. Internal pressure on the seals is the issue. Used to happen greasing aircraft regularly. Ciao

I dunno. Back when I first married Dorcia, I found a 68 Mustang GT lurking under a bunch of crap out in the garage. It didn't have an engine, though. Being more than a hot rodder than an antiquer in the 70s, I decided to turbocharge a Cleveland 351 for it. Lighter than the factory big block by a fair amount and the car handled better because of it. Primitive ignition retard under boost with alcohol/water injected into the carb. It was freakin awesome..

Darn clever of you! I shall shamelessly copy, and leave the alligator clip setup for the unwashed masses....

Picture coming, interweb Sent fra min SM-A505FN via Tapatalk

You're getting your dead gameshow hosts mixed up. I think you need to ask Monty. On door #1 I can't help my eyes being drawn to that ugly charcoal canister under the bike. What is wrong with me?

When I got home I bumped the CO Trim up to 15. I also bumped the idle up to 1100. Keep in mind at 1100 my charging light is off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Probably very few of us saw the 10 duplicate posts that Guzzimax triggered.