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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/16/2022 in all areas
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7 points
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I really didn't want to ever have to post this thread here, but the truth is that I don't appreciate this bike the way others would. Since I inherited it, I've ridden less than 50 miles and I've held onto it for the sentimental value, but I feel like it's time to let it go to a home of someone who can fully appreciate it. It has 8,778 miles on the odometer. My dad cycled between 7 bikes and after he got sick, the one that was easiest to get out of the garage saw all the action. I took ownership in 2014 and rode it a handful of times while paying insurance on it the entire time. It's never been down and is exactly as was left to me. I'm trying to get my place ready to move and would like for it to end up in someone's hands sooner than later. Feel free to contact me with offers. I almost forgot, I believe there's another set of pipes in the crawl space but I haven't gotten there yet.3 points
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3 points
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I had a bad experience with chain drive. I had a bad experience with radiators. I found inline fours expensive to service. The BT1100 bulldog didn't have the ground clearance. The BMW boxers had moved away from oil based paint and mine was desolving beneath me. I saw a year old low mileage V11 at a good price and decided to give it a try. That was May 2004. I am still testing it.2 points
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2 points
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No @docc It's is fixed onto the Layshaft. The worm has a small cutout and a steel ball, like a ball bearing fits into the cutout. The lower section of the ball fits inside the deepest spline on the layshaft so the collar containing the worm drive can't go anywhere and is forced to turn with the layshaft. If you think about it, it would really have to be that way as the worm drive will have a load exerted onto it by the vertical helical gear, if it wasn't positively located it would slip and not rotate at the same RPM as the worm. Dunno if this helps to show the collar located onto the layshaft. Behind the collar, the slotted section between the gear and the collar is where the layshaft bearing installs onto. This is a 5 speed drive but I think the 6 speed is similar The ball, in turn, is held in place by the Layshaft nut which butts up against it (not shown in the picture but you can see the threads it screws onto) EDIT Just to add the worm drive has to stay whether you like it or not. The smooth surface on the collar behind the worm drive is the surface that the layshaft oil seal runs on2 points
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I used the drive to spin a magnet activated reed switch for a pulse input Speedhut.2 points
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Well you could try a 7/64 allan key which is a fraction smaller than a 3m or you could apply some corse water based valve grinding paste to the 2.5 key tip to give it some grip. Note water based not oil based grinding paste. Available at any auto spares store. Ciao2 points
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I saw one of those Yamahas in Switzerland. I almost missed the tour bus while taking the photo (the bus driver owned a Harley). The fellow travelers had a hoot watching me run for it (the Mrs too) -all good. So far as V11 being a classic? Reminds of 911 Porsches being so good and "reliable" but all the other models with the same mechanicals aren't. I don't think these things are cherished for any utility whatsoever. Not a rational choice. OTOH, I'm sure that Yamaha is as reliable as all of Doc's hammers... I'm not sure I'd want one even if it was green with a red frame. .. anyway......2 points
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The special wascher are hardened steel waschers of 1,0mm thickness. (You can get them with a magnet) 1,0 + 1,0 = 2,0 (I have bought about 100 of these - so contact me if you need some). Since the inner and outher diameter are close to identical with a standard 6mm washer - DO NEVER USE ONE OF THEM! The standard wascher are 1,2mm thick. 1,2 + 1,2 = 2,4 THIS WILL SQUEESE THE AXLE SO THAT IT CANNOT ROTATE! 5- and 6-speed gearboxes uses the same technic, but the axle has different number of tooths.2 points
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2 points
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Psychology of a moto-enthusiast is a daring subject. As a life long rider I will say that I had ZERO interest in Guzzi until 2002 when I saw the Tenni in the flesh. At that moment I knew that all other mfg's had abandoned me. But they say love is a convergence of chemistry and timing, and the door of Zen opened wide for me. kensho - seeing into ones true nature. So yeah, ... I'm odd.1 point
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All the adhesives come with the kit that you purchase when you elect to participate; this is why you also see SIMA (Royal Enfield distributor in France) Ipone, Continental.. The 21 adhesive was most likely included. In any case, the individual number does not mean much any longer. All the classification is done via the transponders. The number is just there so the public has a chance to understand who went into the gravel trap. The last time I was at a racing track, I could not even read the number because of the speed.1 point
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Send me a mail (rolf.halvorsen@mail.com) and I will send the picture to you. Then you can do this for me. (Thats why we have friends.)1 point
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Please help me. I am too old to know how to increase the picture.1 point
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Is it safe to assume you've already soaked it with WD-40 or PB Blaster? You also have a fast idle lever on the handlebar. That cable goes to another idle stop on the RH side of the bike. You can adjust your idle speed there. Both idle stops serve the same function.1 point
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Man, Scud, your Scura is impossibly clean (nice Turismo Veloce behind yours, too). I do see that the final drive is flatter than the swingarm. Maybe I'll just paint my swingarm, too (it cleaned up pretty well).1 point
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Personally, I wouldn't bother trying to keep the wrinkle finish on the final drive. It's far enough away from the engine and transmission that it will look fine with a different finish. Better to get as close to the swingarm as possible. On my Scura, the swingarm is powdercoated flat black (as are almost every other black bracket lever, footpeg, etc.). The engine, tranny, final drive and reaction rod are all painted with VHT Satin Black (over VHT Engine Case primer). For some reason, the final drive took the finish differently than the other cases, which is why I thought maybe Semi-Gloss would be good for the final drive. Overall, the Satin Black paint looks similar to the flat black powder - except on the final drive where the spray paint yielded an even flatter finish.1 point
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Well, the more I thought about, the more I thought it's going to be a PITA to strip out everything. No obvious issues with the rear drive; oil looked unremarkable. Plus, I don't have a ring nut socket and I don't want to start whacking the thing with a drift. Stopped by Adv. Auto on my way home from work today and picked up aircraft stripper and paint. I got the VHT wrinkle plus, thinking it may be a decent approximation of the original fuzzy finish. That said, I have reservations about the fuzzy finish and thought I might instead use a semi-gloss black to (try to) match the swingarm. I know there are some threads about the wrinkle/crinckle paint for the engine, but I haven't read up on them. I'll strip tonight and think about the paint some more... Happy to accept any thoughts on the paint options. Cheers!1 point
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I love how she GLOWS in certain light eh! Really is a special colour scheme.... Cheers Guzzler1 point
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Are you going to strip out all the gears, bearings and seals from that? I have simply stripped off the old paint and used engine case spray paint (rattle-can) for a couple final drives. They came out nicely. FWIW - I used VHT brand satin black. A semi-gloss might look even better. The driveshaft collars are an easy powder-coat. Bubbles... for Champagne... I like it.1 point
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Got the freshly painted tank and fly screen back this afternoon. I’m happy, both to have it done and with the results. As known, the paint is tricky to match, not being a basic color, so i was only cautiously optimistic about how it would turn out, and I’d say it met or slightly exceeded my expectations, and is a “win” overall. When turning the newly painted tank, or the old side covers, at different angles in different light you get a real different look to the paint, part of what makes it neat, and hard to match. As noted earlier, the side covers i bought used and have some UV aging, the pilion cover and fenders are stock on my bike but were exposed to more UV and other bad things than they should have been, and now the tank and fly screen are new paint. They all match nicely, especially when considering all that. I’ll post the paint code for anyone interested. But first some pics (apparently i still haven’t figured out the proper way to post pics… but here we go:) Notice how even the pics look different, in the same place with same light but taken at different angles.1 point
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We've had 60+ degree weather all week but there are still some snow piles cleared from parking lots. I'd just come from Don's place trying to get my commission money. All I got was a lousy photo.1 point
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D'oh! Reverse engineered the price! Still pretty fair. I pointed it out to DW and she said "You already have a red motorcycle"1 point
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1 point
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1 point
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Visited the MEBC today (Moto Euro Breakfast Club). Check out the lovely new MV Augusta Turismo Veloce Lusso. Bodywork is the same color as my Scura's frame plate. And let's not ignore the Brutale 1090 hiding behind that...1 point
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1 point
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1 point
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Nice old SP there too! (My buddy has an SP, bought it new, has clocked 203K miles on it, never been torn down and runs like a top).1 point
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1 point
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Yes, Docc Garmin'd this route and tuned my 1200 perfectly. All I did was buy lunch! Thanks Docc!1 point
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Many of the small towns in our region were built along the railroads. Quite a few have an old caboose on display honoring that heritage. I put together a day ride that took in five cabooses (plus the BBQ Caboose Café ), 215 miles, 8 counties. . . . and 2 happy Guzzisti on their romping Sports . . .1 point