Leaderboard

Well, I have Le Mans Rosso Corsa, my son has a Scura, and I've sold a Rosso Mandello to a guy up North. So there are at least three that he does not own...

Another ride out on the Greenie last summer, with a red V7. Parked here in Matlock Bath for fish n chips Roll on Spring…..

It goes with the Barry White song he plays when he gets busy... "Oh baby..."

I suppose that you don't have a V11 because @Tomchri owns most of the V11s in Norway.

The ecu reverts to/applies the Start Enrichment trim on every start irrespective of the engine temp or OAT for 3984 engine revolutions, note not RPM. So it tapers off counting down from 3984 to zero revolutions of the engine until it reaches zero enrichment. It's why you cant realistically adjust the CO and hear/measure it's effect for around 3 minutes after starting the engine unless you hold it above idle rpm to reduce the time. Ciao

Interesting…. I have Agostinis on Red, and at a glance thought they were the same from the picture. I still like the “bass note” the stock carbon cans on Goldie produce, but sure prefer the look of the agostini carbons. Non-sequitur: I have a bit of a sputter/miss on Red at about 3500+ rpm, sitting in the shop and running it up. Wondering if it’s old gas (just from last fall, clear premium, so shouldn’t be…), or if something else is going on. Does sound like the miss I’ve had on project bikes that had old fuel, and more than once I chased my tail trying to tune that issue out, only to find that refreshing the fuel fixed the issue. But this fuel isn’t that old. Did the usual tuning, and all seemed right, with only very minor adjustments needing to be made on valves, TPS, and TB sync. Once I have my arm back to be able to ride, I’ll have to shake it out and see if the miss/sputter is there on a road test.

also, the head mounted fairing brackets are easily bent. If it was laid down the bracket will be pushing the fairing tail up close to the tank. An easy repair would be to bend it back away from the tank... maybe it was bent to far??? The 'silent block' mount "nuts" are easily worn out and are cheap to replace. The difference in 'noise' between the two bikes could be the difference in clutch/flywheel assemblies.

Yep, that did the trick. PO missed that when installing the fairing after the first crash. I always knew one cylinder was forward and one aft, but never knew they were no on longitudinal center.

Hey nice progress. And damn quick fix on the neutral light. One problem down... a few more to go. Torsion bar and shock mount need to be addressed no matter what you do with the bike cosmetically. The tank and fairing are centered on the frame but the engine is offset a bit to the right. The fairing has two brackets from the heads that look deceptively similar, but are not the same. The longer bracket should go on the LH side to compensate for the engine offset. If the brackets are in the wrong sides, spacing around the tank will be too tight on the left and overly wide on the right. Fuel leak - try turning key (or kill switch) several times and check your fuel lines. The pump will keep priming and hopefully you can find what is wrong. Smoke - since it didn't run long, we can't rule out a bit of condensation in one pipe. Something to keep an eye on after it runs longer without leaking fuel.

The most encouraging thing is that I didn't have any parts left over after it went back together. Thanks for the nice pic, Docc. Per instructions, grounded wire and got neutral light. Filed connector, put on some dielectric grease. Neutral light all good.

Yep. In reality nothing. It's the result of the architecture of the cans. Made my bike sound like an old Norton Commando fitted with Peashooters on the overrun. Couldn't stand it so bought Agostinis. They also have that suck back moan sound on every gear shift like a Morris minor 1000 used to have when when shifting gears when I was a kid as well which I dislikes. Mini 850's did the same. How to make your V11 sound like a cross between an old 20HP budget British car from the early 60's and a British twin motorcycle from the same era. Horrible. I really like the look of them but I couldn't live with the note. Leave the DB killers in and save yourself the embarrassment. Ciao

@knumbnutz:

Thanks, really. The correction/clarification is appropriate. I was being hasty and erred. I appreciate your clarification! And also the confirmation on the enrichening function number of revolutions, that it is independent of all parameters besides startup, and that the mixture tapers over the revolutions (I did not know this). My backstory is that my throttle bodies dripped from the shafts from new. I reported this to my dealer and he replaced the entire Throttle Body/ injector/ TPS rail under warranty. And told me, "If your turn the key on or start it just briefly, you will get that drip still." Of course, the Sport was new to me and I was starting her every time I walked by and for everyone I could get to listen to the song! Sure enough, if we cycle the key on and off or briefly start the combination of enrichening and pressurizing is likely to drip fuel past the throttle body shafts.

Wasn't trying to correct just clarify docc. It's just a bit confusing if you're not aware and revolutions can be mixed up with rpm. Ciao

docc, when ever I see pictures of your bike’s engine I am always impressed by how clean it is! Not one trace of oil seepage, road grime……nothing! So, in addition to the Barry White to go along with your sexy bike lift lighting, here’s one for your oh-so-clean engine:

That looks like a great stand. I am guessing that they are no longer made and are hard to find, like the other accessories made for the bikes. Thanks for the pics!

Thanks for the clarification, @Lucky Phil! I knew I only had that "close" while stating RPM instead of "revolutions" was nonsensical on my part.

Bought one-way flight from Pennsylvania to Colorado in June. Thinking I'll ride around CO visiting friends for 5 days and then spend another 5 days on a joy ride home. I'll need to buy a bike out there of course. If I love it, I'll keep it when I get home. Otherwise, I'll sell it. Trumpet Sprint STs seem to be pretty affordable and well-liked, plus many come with factory cases. Seems a number of forum members have owned or ridden one at some point. Virtues of this bike?

Many. The deal breaker for me was the heat rolling out of the fairing. I liked the bike, though..but not enough to pull the trigger.

Wasn't me, I put new dampers in the '85 LM but I'm only now ashamedly addressing the front end of the Sport, which has a number of troubles I've never mentioned but would probably shock anyone else riding it. Before the Spine Raid it'll get fork rebuild, steering head rebuild, brake caliper rebuild and a bit of clean-and-refinish. Who's got the WP service book for the forks?

Love the Little Feat quotes, one of my favorite bands! Now, if we could work in lyrics from a Fat Man in the Bathtub.. Hay Mama, hey, let me check your oil alright?

The Honda 125 looks like a real fun piece to just put around town. Since I'm 6ft.+ and 250+- lbs, the comedy factor would also be included...

My understanding is that the ECU reverts to the rich revolutions (is it 6,000?) every time the ignition is switched back on, regardless of temperature. Does this involve the Run/"Kill" Switch as well? IDK, I always use them both to start and stop. I have a backstory on this, but the technical specificity has been reported to support this ECU function.

Interesting idea. Incidentally, the Tenni exploding clutch/flywheel problem was resolved by POx1. Bubbles just sounds a bit clanky. Seems that switching the brackets L to R resolved the fairing problem.

More progress! Welldone, @FreyZI !

^ Like Docc said. Every fuel line and fitting. Start with the puddle and work your way up. Extra attention to anything you removed and reinstalled. It's also possible that you just sloshed a little gas around while installing the tank and that some ran down a drain hose. In that case, your problem will not re-occur. Maybe shake those vent lines to see if another drop of fuel comes out.

Okay, I have the decent tune up bookmarked. @Scud, what to look for?

Any vacuum leaks are going to fuss with her. Try spraying an evaporative (not oily) solvent around all of the junctions and joints and connections of the intakes while idling. If the idle is affected, you have located a culprit. Here is a link to Torque Reaction Rod bushes, courtesy of member @Steve S:

Bravo! As for the torsion bar bushes, I believe we have a known replacement source for those to press in. As for the leaking throttle body, the fuel system remains under pressure after shutdown. Carefully check tightness and integrity of all of the fuel line connections. So many suspicious foibles will dissolve into a bit of run-in, some fettling, and a couple "Decent Tune-ups" . . . Remember, the V11 ECU richens the start-up mixture the first 6,000 rpm (IIRC) every time it is started. This aspect certainly can drizzle raw fuel out the throttle body shafts.

Progress! Regarding the Neutral Light: This is illuminated by the Neutral Switch on the left side of the gearbox ("shift plate") just below the starter motor. It is common that the crimp connector comes loose or looses connection due to corrosion. Locate, clean, crimp, connect, and use copious amount of Vaseline® or equivalent as it is down in the road spray. Most everyone would expect (especially me) to say "relay #3", but the light is triggered by the switch before the relay. It is also possible to be a stuck (or faulty) Neutral Switch. Some have removed it, cleaned and replaced along with a gearoil change with success. Find the end if the wire and ground it. If the light comes on, the fault is the connection or the switch itself. "C" in this image (Left of the red circle):

I got Bubbles put back together. I started with the rear, as I swapped out the badly peeling anodized-looking red pork chops for a pair of dark silver-ish pork chops that came with the bike from PO. Though I had considered a "one side at a time" approach to pork chop replacement (i.e., take as little apart as possible), I ultimately decided to just take everything apart. Now that I've had the rear apart, the good news is that most of it seems pretty serviceable. I did not break into the rear drive, but oil looked fine and magnetic plug looked fine, too. All the joints in the drive train looked good enough. Known problems: Shock eye at swingarm has some play Torsion bar rubber jobbies are shot Right muffler mount bent Torsion bar has been eroded at the connection to frame (I suspect one of the frame tabs was bent inward at some point and it since ate slowly away at the torsion bar where it's pinched Also, the most rearward part of the fairing (above the cylinder heads) is not a tight fit to the fuel tank. I suspect that, in the fall on the right, one or more mounting brackets were bent, and then bent back, but not quite to original shape. I have a half inch or so of daylight. In the outdoor light, it sure seemed to me that the fairing was a different color (a bit less gold) that the tank and the seat surround. I suspect that the fairing had either been replaced or repainted at some point; and that there was a second accident in which the fairing got a little minor road rash. Yes, I think this bike has been down a couple times. Moving on to the front: I took Bubbles down from laundry room suspension and wheeled it outside. Started right up. Runs a little rough. A bit more (valve train?) noise than the Tenni. I let it warm up a couple minutes; did not ride it. Began leaking fuel from the right throttle body. I noticed this after I shut it down, so I don't know if it was leaking while running. Also after shut down, I noticed that the right muffler only smoked for a while. This is where I will be most happy for your thoughts. One other gremlin to note: Neutral light does not come on and dropping the kickstand in neutral results in engine cut-off. It's a good thing I'm having fun wrenching and learning about V11s, because I'm feeling like I made a pretty poor, sight unseen, Covid Times, boredom purchase. This may end up being the rat bike I always wanted.

I've had my Trail 90 for 50 years, probably will last another 50..

I’m probably on the wrong thread, but on one of the discussions of forks, Lucky Phil made the comment that you could get Andreani cartridge inserts for the V11. Intrigued, I went looking, https://www.ebay.com/itm/112664548144?hash=item1a3b549330:g:PoIAAOSwovNaH91O At that price it’s a great deal for hopefully a plug & play piece of equipment

It could be either your tank vent or drain. There are two outlets on the bottom of the tank. One is a drain for any liquids that my be present around the filler ring and the other is a vent for any pressure that may build up inside the filler cap. If your bike originally was a CA spec one, the vent line would have been plumbed into the filter canister. This is generally removed and both lines a joined with a small joiner to the drain line and are discharged down at the rear of the sump. This is where the drain line is routed. For this I used a small garden irrigation "Y". I am unsure how the vent system is structured on non CA spec bikes. Rob

I had an intermittent fuel problem recently, always beginning with the fuel pump being 'noisy' or 'buzzy'. The short story is, I had a high resistance connection somewhere that caused the fuel pump relay to drop out when everything got warm- then as soon as it dropped the pump load, the voltage went back up and reconnected the relay. Rinse and repeat, at high frequency. A simple but thorough cleaning and maintenance of all the relays and connections ended it. The pump went silent again.

I found a nice suit, but I doubt it is made of noble leather. Besides, I am not certain the lace will not wear out prematurely...

Points well taken.....

You only need to cure VHT engine enamel for "Chemical resistance" read gasoline resistance. You could probably get away without the heat curing but if you have an oven and an understanding wife then it can't hurt anything. Personally I'd stay away from wrinkle finish paint. It collects dirt too easily and is hard to clean. looks nice but not in the "real world" Ciao

Just give me weed, whites, and wine.. best truckin song ever, and one of my favorites. LF was never the same after George died.

Driven every kind of rig that's ever been made, Driven the back roads so I wouldn't get weighed ........ but I'm still willin'

Ha, yeah, I bet those place-names have "local pronunciations" out there. They just seem to fit so nicely in the sequence (as much as Tucson to Tucumcari) . . . "Of travel, I've had my share, man! "

I try to flush all the hydraulics (brakes and clutch) annually, which means sometimes they go up to two years between flushes. This is often overlooked, so it's one of the first things I do when I get a pre-owned vehicle. With the wheel on, flushing the fluid is a time-sucking annoyance and very difficult for one person unless you have long arms. You can also install a speed-bleeder there. But it will still be a PITA to get the hose on the bleeder and another PITA to get a tool on it. FWIW, I like the Motul 5.1 fluid for its high boiling point - not that I always need it, but I can use the brakes all I want on long descents without worrying about fade.