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My suggestion to you is to spend some time learning about the system on the V11 and Guzzidiag, there's plenty of detailed information out there going back about 12 years since Guzzidiag was invented. You will then realise that this add on box is a waste of money because Guzzidiag in conjunction with Tunerpro will do everything it does without being an add on and for free. But as a start here's some information. You totally misunderstand how the 15M system works on the Guzzi. Basically it has base fuel and ignition maps ( as well as start enrichment and a few others) as all systems do and it adds trim values to the base maps dependent on atmospheric and operating conditions. So engine temp, Baro pressure, inlet air temp etc. It also takes commands from your right wrist via the TPS and the known engine rpm looks at what the base map is saying and all the environmental trims and injects the appropriate amount of fuel and applies the appropriate amount of ignition advance. As environmental conditions change such as Inlet air temp, engine temp, baro pressure so does the amount of fuel injected and the amount of ignition advance. It's all done in "real time". It's a very capable system and doesn't need any do dads and hang ons to do it job. It can be easily tuned via Guzzidiag and Tunerpro even for people with very basic computer skills like me. Ciao

My Joe Caruso timing gears and relieved cam bushing came today, one week shipped from the heart of England. I have never received anything packed this well, or dealt with anyone finer than Joe. The pieces look awesome!

This story will be told in pictures and they will probably be few and far between.

So I took the rear brake off, found that it heated up enough to melt the rubber. So I got it cleaned up enough for a rebuild kit. It also left residue on the rear disc and wheel.

Just to add that looks like an EVO unit. I've got one on the BMW R9T, it's more capable than a Power Commander in some respects what it does is adjust closed loop fuelling on more modern bikes and isn't required on an open loop system. The EVO only looks at the fuel map, if you wanted to adjust ignition too you'd need to get the RACE module. For the R9T it comes complete with its own loom and is (pretty much) plug and play The R9Ts are tuned quite lean (mine is a Euro 4) the stock narrow band lambdas output go to the EVO which alters the signal to the A/F ratio you set and it then sends a dummy signal to the ECU essentially fooling it to alter the injector timing to achieve the A/F you select. Quite a few use it on the R9Ts especially if they install different exhausts or air filters. With the narrow band lambdas it tunes on the fly but narrow band lambdas are essentially a 3 way switch they only tell you if the A/F is optimal, rich or lean. The EVO takes a few hundred miles for the module to optimize the tune to the target A/F (13.2 out the box, as I recall). You can also get another add on to the EVO and install a wide band lambda which will tune (more or less) in real time. EVO comes with software and you can adjust/tweak the map, or the target A/F and a few other odds and ends. I like it, it's quite a nice system for closed loop tuning on a bike where it can be difficult to find places to remap the ECU. As for V11s it's not required for open loop systems

Take your pick. Anything from pauldaytona will be first class as he's one of the people behind it in the first place. How much is an old giveaway winows 8 laptop? probably a Giveaway, ie nothing. People use Guzzidiag on apple products. Also look at Tunerpro. Tunerpro is what you use to modify the .bin file you download with the Guzzidiag "reader". It's seriously NOT rocket surgery:) Believe me if I can get my head around it anyone can. https://www.google.com/search?q=youtube+Guzzidiag&rlz=1C1CHBD_en-GBAU863AU863&oq=youtube+Guzzidiag&aqs=chrome..69i57j0i546l2j69i64.7419j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Ciao

My brain still fogs into the deer in the headlight mode when I read these Guzzidiag threads. Maybe it’s because I’ve usually had a few IPAs before I settle down to look at the forum. I know this stuff won’t run on my IPad or IPhone, and I don’t have access to a Windows computer or lap top, and even if I did I am afraid that I would still be an idiot with it. Like I did when I tried using MIDI to program a DX7 keyboard. I have the stock ECU but with Mistral pipes and crossover. The bike seems to run pretty good, but ignorance is bliss and I am sure things could be optimized. Is there a YouTube or something that is a real talking to a dummy and holding their hand tutorial on this stuff?

those will fit in yer saddlebags Docc. It'd be a great tech session at SSR I'll "bring tools"

I hope the V11 does not succumb to "skin suffocation" . . .

Tunerpro is used to edit .bin files or "the maps" if you like not to download and upload the .bin file. That is done by the Guzzidiag reader and writer programs. So Guzzidiag allows you to view your bikes injection system in real time while it's running and see all the Parameters etc like throttle position and various environmental sensor outputs. It also allows you to adjust the CO setting and on some bikes reset the TPS reference point and turn the LAMBDA on or off. The reader and writer programs allow you to download the .bin file (or maps) from your ecu and save them on your computer and then the Tunerpro programme allows you view the .bin file in human understandable form and to edit the .bin files to create whatever changes to the file/maps you want and save them to your computer and then use the Guzzidiag writer programme to upload the modified map into your bikes ecu. The .bin file is a computer geek file in Hex and computer language, Tunerpro turns that into something that is layman understandable and simple to edit. What map do you load? Any map someone emails you or you find on this forum via a .bin file. Simply download the file onto your computer open the reader select the map and with your laptop connected to the bikes ecu simply write the new map. Or take your original map open it in tunerpro and make changes or edit the maps yourself. Save the map on your computer and then load it into your bikes ecu with the writer programme. It's identical to tuning a carburettor just via a laptop. So you think your bike is running badly at a certain point, look at the fuel map at that point ( so throttle angle and rpm) and lets say richen it up 3% in that area. Save the new map file and name it on your laptop and use the writer to load it to the ecu. Take the bike for a ride and see if it's an improvement. Yes then add another 2% and try again. No lean it off again. OR if it runs worse on the initial change then go back 6% from your new map ( 3% leaner than stock map) and see how that goes. Pretty simple and you can't hurt anything with small changes like 3-5%. Then the same for ignition if you like and start enrichment the list goes on. If you have a few maps to look at you can look at them on tunerpro and see where the differences are between the maps and if your bike is not running as well as it should and you have another map thats different in that area then edit the map thats in your bike and use those values from the other map and see what the result is. This is how bikes were tuned when they had carbs. making changes via jets, throttle slides etc then riding them and seeing what the result is. For most people this will be good enough. A bike that starts well, warms up well, idles well, responds to the throttle well, doesn't use too much fuel and is nice to ride. If you want something closer to perfection then you can hire some dyno time and an operator or get into the world of data logging engine lambda. Ciao

Wow ! Very interesting

I'm always fighting it out with The Waddington Effect to make the South'n SpineRaid. Planning a "Decent Tune-up" at 125,000 miles (valve lash, spark plugs, TPS, throttle body balance). Maybe a tank-off (air and fuel filters) and tires before the South'n SpineRaid. But, nothing "major!"

Yes, and it's another ding dong that coud go bad. It's doable to tune the stock ECU. Cheers Tom

Correct. Or if not necessarily an "enhancer", then at least a "modifier." The consensus has long been that this is obsolete technology now that we can read and write "maps" to our own ECU.

I do. It came with the bike and I have no idea what it is programmed to or if it is even active. The bike runs great and there's an old engineering saying "If it works, don't F*&^ with it"

Mine is a 75, not all original but a rider.

Mine where in the mail today. Very nicely done! although I almost had to get the chainsaw out to open box. just kidding ....and a big thanks to Joe

Been there, done that. I don't have much to say anymore, MG forums are the least agreeable of any I inhabit. Which is odd since it's so opposite my real-life experience.

Thanks for all the input. I'll look around. PA, The 5.11 version I posted were specific Motorcop wear. I'll look into your point whether these are poly. The Klims that I listed are in my size, the Aerostitch aren't. Have to look at the Diamonds. I've posted this on three different forums, this is by far the best feedback. On another Guzzi forum it was so contentious that it had to be deleted. And on a Duc forum I got no input.

I wore 5:11 60/40 for 3 years in Iraq and Afghanistan. Though in hot weather I wore the lighter weight 100% poly, I wore the 60/40 any time the temp was below about 80*F. They're tough as nails, very comfortable (after a couple wear/wash cycles) and look nice. BUT they are *not* crashwear. Polyester gets hot when abraded, and will melt and stick to your skin in a slide. So yeah, durability while riding is good, and temperature control is good, but I don't want to crash in them. I'd rather have a set of traditional Wrangler or Levi denims. All that said, I've been looking for a couple years for and at riding pants, and still haven't bought anything. I ride in jeans or Aerostitch. If I lived in a cooler climate, I'd consider armored leather. Meh.

I have a riding buddy that swears by Diamond Gusset® riding jeans. Made in Tennessee, IIRC! https://www.gusset.com/defender/

Thanks KD. I think the 42 might be out of my budget, I did see that Klin Outrider are on closeout. They seem pretty good. I've heard good things about Klin.

I have gone through a lot of material about Guzzidiag and TunerPro; What I seem to be missing, as far as I understand, is which map should I load into my ECU to replace the current one, which I assume is the stock one. I have read Paul Minnaert's "V11 ECU Diagnostic and Reprogramming". I like to think I learned what GuzziDiag does, and TunerPro which is used to download, edit, upload injection maps. Correct? I have read Meinolf's V11 bin, and some other threads with alternate maps to install in your ECU. Can you explain to me what difference exists between one map with the other? how do you determine the one that works best for your application? we know that our V11 have those injection issues at low rpm under some atmospheric conditions. What I liked about the contentious add-on "black box", is that it works with whatever map is in the ECU. I am not deterred by the means to install a corrected map into my ECU. I am simply not familiar with the way to determine which one is the best for my application to get rid of the injection imperfection at low rpm's. As I worked with computer before they became accessible to the public, I was also privy of auto-adaptative algorithms, used to optimize routine tasks in certain tools we were using. This is why I feel that I understand better the ECU adjuster than the proposed, improved, optimized injection maps elaborated by many here, on this forum. Maybe also because everything is done from remote. Some of the explanations are of the "follow" type. Like you, I like to understand what I am doing. I get that for the sake of simplicity, some of the instructions remain "step by step". It is fine. So, bottom line; which bin do you recommend?

The the Klim K42's have great armor in the knees and shins and removable hip armor as well and the jeans are kevlar.. And what I like is that they arent bulky and clunky looking like most armored jeans Klim K Forty 2 Straight Stretch Riding Jeans Blending road-ready protection with off-bike casual comfort, the K Forty 2 is a well balanced everyday riding jean. Bridging the gap between lightweight comfort-focused jeans and Kevlar protection-focused jeans, the K Forty 2 is built to compliment your motorcycle lifestyle. From your commute, to the office, to the garage, a weekend ride or a night downtown, the K Forty 2 has all your bases covered. Features: Straight cut fit 5-pocket style jeans 13oz abrasion/cut resistant stretch denim Partial front leg mesh lining D3O IP Ghost CE level 1 vented ultra slim knee/hip armor Knee armor is adjustable / all armor is removable Hidden reflective bottom hem Subdued leather branding Riveted construction w/ zip fly Stretch gusseted crotch area CE AA rating certified to EN 17092-3

Some have no armor but reinforcements and others do or have pockets for it optionally. I'm on the fence about that as well.

Friday or Saturday after the track action is a good time to sample some Lockhart BBQ, there are 3 or 4 famous places there. I've sampled at least three of them. The toll road is 90 85mph and I've been passed by motorcops going faster when I was doing 95. This isn't like typical pork BBQ with red sauce. It's smoked with salt and pepper with no sauce, whether beef or pork. I think the biggest treats are the beef dinosaur ribs. The problem with trying to sample a little of everything, is that it's easy over order. I was tired of seeing MM win there. I was cheering for his first win and perhaps a couple of more. Now it would be neat to see if he can recover. I did see Suzuki win it's first race (Rins) and Rossi get 2nd. And of course MM's great qualifying effort after jumping his broken bike- great view from T1.

Hi ! I don’t have a budget in mind given the fact that I thought it would not be easy to find a used seat regardless the condition. i will feel sorry to butcher up a nice seat though. let see if something in worst condition comes up if not we can talk . thank you so much . have a great day

Staging is lovely docc & while those lightening holes certainly add a certain cool factor - they do look ruggedly hefty! With gears replacing chains - if there’s any weight difference - is that weight difference in engineering terms normally calculated to be apportioned to the crankshaft assembly - or to the valve train?

Yeah, what he said. Hope to have them installed this weekend.

God I'm even less confident now. Next it'll be ditching the airbox. Ciao

FWIW, "properly" set valves, CO Fuel Trim at zero or +, meticulously base-lined TPS, and carefully balanced throttle bodies seriously sweeten a V11. Sure, securing even minuscule intake and exhaust leaks are significant, as is seeing to our rather fragile charging systems.

Select "LeMans." Find the CO Fuel Trim value. Report its preset and set it to zero (once the engine is at operating temperature). When @andy york did this for my Sport, it transformed years of fussing with running issues. My CO Fuel Trim was factory set at minus/ negative/ - 27.

I just moved @Lucky Phil's installation thread to "How to . . ."

I have owned most every major brand riding jeans...imo the best in fit and protection by FAR are KLIM K42.......

Our seats are Section T15-25, Row 23, Seats 1-4. My darkside tire is a Leao Lion Sport 205/50R-17. I chose it because it is symmetric and has well rounded sides. I have 2 rear wheels and swap back to a moto tire for normal riding. The darkside is for the 2000+ mile, Interstate-10, tire burning ride from Mesa, AZ to Austin and back.

Hmm. Black's. Unfortunately, after the race on Sunday, I point my bike west and start heading back to Mesa, AZ. Hoping to catch some dinner at Black's one of the nights. Personally, I hope MM sits this one out. If I have to watch MM lead flag to flag ONE MORE TIME . . . Nice to see Aprilia success. Here's to hoping that their new Aprilia Taureg 660 is available for demo rides !

Sounds like a Power Commander

Never heard of them, but they've been around a while- https://www.dimsport.it/en/ Add-on tuning always gets the side-eye from me.

As weegie mentioned an extra deep 32mm impact socket. The torque figures are in the Shop manual. Crank Nut 110-120nm, alternator nut 80nm, cam gear 150nm. If you look in my "how to" for this task you will get some hints on holding tools etc. https://www.abc.se/~rasmus/1100Sport-torque.html Ciao

Docc, don’t worry about the clock, reset or not, W affects or not. Quit wearing watches 30+ years ago. Take care of the gal, and think about the 6000 rpm song. . Cheers tom

Gears are better than chains in every way but one- noise. Gears are noisy, chains are quiet. So any bike that has to pass any sort of noise test (EPA here) benefits from using a cam chain instead of gears. Even HD went to chains in their big twins, because they trade the cam noise for exhaust/intake noise. Functionally? Probably not noticeable, if the chain is good and the tensioner is adequate. Still, I'll have a set in mine eventually, because riding an Italian motorcycle and asking why something makes sense is a silly thing.

Yes 8 X 1mm thread. Torque, 2-2.2 kgm with loctite 601. Ciao

Welcome to elegance Ciao

Just some feedback on the timing gears. Rode into the city yesterday for lunch with my wife which entailed about 60klms of freeway riding at 100 klm/h in 26 degC heat at around 2900-30000 rpm indicated. It still coughs and stumbles at around 3000 rpm occasionally. So the gears aren't the answer to that it seems. looks like mapping. Ciao

Well got it done and dusted. While It was up on the stand with the tank off I pulled the airbox and fitted the gearbox support as well so that's another job off the list. The bike started right up with oil pressure even before it fired which was nice considering I had drained the oil cooler. The gears are almost silent, I can hear them hot and cold but I'm listening for them. When its hot you can just hear the sound of meshing gears whirring around which sounds rather cool to me. Couple of things, the idle went up by a few hundred rpm. I have my idle set fairly high at just under 1200 rpm on the Vaguelia and after the install I had around 1400-1500 rpm indicated. No loose hoses or any other obvious issues so I took it down on the idle screw. The bike ran fine and I'm trying my best to be objective here but it was maybe a little bit more responsive. It seems to respond to the throttle a little sharper, not night and day but it seems sharper. I had read a long time ago ( with some skepticism I might add) the theory that the old floating throttle hiccup was caused by timing chain slack so I was interested to see how this went. My bike has always done this at or around 3200 rpm while cruising on the flat with just a whiff of throttle, maybe 2-3%, just off the stop. It would cough once every klm or so. I don't ride in the hiccup zone much so I wasn't bothered to chase it down. On the test ride I tried my hardest to make it hiccup and cough but without any success. The jury is still out on this I'll see how it goes in different atmospheric conditions. Ciao