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Having had a disturbing number of PC545 "clicks" when far away from home - even after conditioning - I recalled that my Kawi had a Yuasa AGM that worked just fine for 9 years. So, what's a couple of pounds on a 550 pound bike? I can skip a meal or two and lose more than that. So, the AGM is in and works as expected. If one has an aversion to Yuasa, say because a Yuasa let them down back in the 70s, there is yet another battery maker in Reading, Pennsylvania: DEKA (East Penn Mfg.) They also make an two or three AGMs for Guzzis.

I get that. And to an extent that is a good idea. But when I put a Lithium battery in my '07 Griso 1100 it didn't work that way. Like many fuel injected bikes my Griso will abort the start attempt if the voltage drops below the required threshold. And it doesn't turn on the headlight when not running, only the running light. And that doesn't seem to have enough current draw to warm the battery. Later versions of the Griso would run the starter anyway if you held the starter button down. But the early versions would not. So, on my Griso, the Lithium battery was a fail. And the weight savings was unnoticeable, a few pounds saved on a 500 pound motorcycle is insignificant. The technology is improving. And not only for weight savings but for energy density. The amount of power they are fitting into such small packages is amazing. We are currently running a Lithium battery in the wife's Monster and have two 100A Lithium batteries in our RV. I can see eventually all our battery applications could end up being Lithium. But currently for some of our applications a lead acid battery is still the better choice. The Odyssey battery that got pulled out of the wife's V11 is still running my lawn tractor. It is easily more than ten years old. It just keeps going. That said, our EV has a Lithium battery.

Had a Shorai in my Daytona 1200. Electrical system, carbs, plugs, wires, all were on-point. Thought I'd save a few lbs. on a 556lb. bike. Nope. Lithium is useless for my applications. After 2 weeks dancing and praying for it to work, bought a heavy AGM Yuasa. Started 1st time at 46 degrees...with a set of four carbs and a heavy 1200cc to turn over. That lithium battery would have blown my sprag clutch if I kept trying until it decided to start my bike. Clack clack clack...that was my sprag getting destroyed one attempt at a time. That's an engine out job...no thank you! I will say, that lithium battery was a very light paperweight!

That was a crazy race. Good on FQ, he really made the most of the Yamaha. Clearly he is the only guy able to get that sort of speed out of the Yamaha. No one else on a Yamaha has that sort of speed. But I can't see him being able to do that at too many tracks. This track allowed him to do that, in part because it doesn't have any long straights that you come out onto from slow corners. When FQ went by the Suzuki he flew by down that short straight. He must have carried so much more speed onto that short straight. Wow. The Moto2 race was something of a disaster for most of the fast guys. Good on Joe Roberts. But I was more impressed with Cameron Beaubier. He seemed to have some serious pace.

...probably the finest sounding V twin ever built? I love the Ducati desmodue, but I'll be damned if the big Guzzi doesn't match, or at least rival it for sound and character! I'm loving mine more by the day.

https://etsi.me/ Everything you were told Duck Duck Go was, but wasn't. No tracking, no data mining, no selling your information to big data. Confidence; High.

Exactly. Lithium batteries aren't some panacea for all of us.

No match for one of these esp with hi comp pistons and race cams. The Panigale V2 WSB's sounded the best of all the twins at race speeds At PI they had a sharp rasp to them at WOT and full revs down the chute and downright dangerous but the best bit was the initial crack of the throttle out of the slower corners like Southern loop. Even from 100 metres away as the rider stood it up on the fat part of the tyre and went WOT for the first second or so you could hear the induction roar from the twin 70mm throttle bodies easily over the exhaust. A truly evocative sound. Big twin sound is as much about the throttle body noise as the exhaust. Older versions like my 1198 had a much mellower sound on the track but sounded muscular and serious compared to the screaming 4 cylinder WSB bikes. They just sounded fraught. These sounded OK. Ciao

Timesert . The best !

Oh, BTW, it's just black rubber with texture; not faux cf. See https://www.eazi-grip.com/eazi-grip/. I ordered from U.S. distributor https://www.orientexpress.com/

Personally I DO tend to run at a high RPM through all the gears and I nearly always downshift for hard throttle. The thing positively sings at higher rpm's as well as shifts effortlessly. It's made to rev IMO. My bike loves me for it. I ride all my bikes this way. Also I don't give a hoot about mpg OR tire life. (other than to determine a fault) This is my toy, not my investment.

Just a follow up. I did purchase some riding jeans from New Enough. Got some Cortech brand "Primary Riding Jeans" on close out for 55% off. This was a their former top of the line stuff.Limited sizing. So far pretty comfy, a little big and long. I can roll up the cuffs and stuff my shirt inside and tighten the belt. Heavy jeans with with blended Kevlar in the fabric, heavy threading and knee/hips armor cups. Claimed to be 500% more abrasion resistant than jeans.

I've owned both the RC30 and the 851 with the reverse cone megaphones. They were way to loud for the road though and I ended up with a full alloy can SP2 system on it. The RC30 sounded nice at WOT mostly due to intake noise. If you've ever heard a WSB RC30 running in the pits without the backlash gears fitted to the cam drive gears which is how they were run back in the late 80's you'd be shocked at the mechanical racket once they got warmed up. Ciao

However, a big block Moto Guzzi does not need high compression pistons or to be at race speed to sound great. It sounds bellissimo at any revs, with any appropriate load. On a side note Docc I have recently ridden a friend GB500TT. What a little joy they are for a short sprint on some undulating twisties.

The holes in my wheels are open, no plugs.

Unfortunately, those are still under-rated Chinese relays. If you can't find High Current OMRON G8HE on ebay, then the CIT are available and the ratings check out. Otherwise, any Nasty Hiccup should start with a "Decent-tune UP" . . .

Best Moto Guzzi V-twin I ever heard was Andy York's LeMans when it had the Gianelli on it. Maybe because it was always in front of me. And pulling away . . .

HI All, just cruised through this thread. Have been having increasingly this hiccup issue the last several thousand kms. Bike runs and idles fine no hiccups until you start moving. Its never when im heavy on throttle, only off or coming off the power or at neutral steady throttle cruising. Its gotten bad enough that its a distraction while riding, and will occasional cough the bike into dying at a light when I rev a bit pro to starting off (love hearing the Guzzi sound of course). Anyway, seems like there is no clean solution. Not sure where I might get those relays these days guess ill try eBay. Anybody Ive ever talked to thought maybe the bike is just running lean, but its more than that and I never had an issue in the for 15 years of owning the bike soooo.. Thanks for the thread all, and if anybody seea any reason I might be barking down the wrong road please say so. At this point ill replace the TPS, fuse and see where it gets me!

The ferry ride, albeit short is enjoyable especially on a nice day! Most days you should be able to see dolphins swimming along near the boats…

Yep, here it is in that excellent thread. This good advice came from @Lucky Phil' expert posting: "The return spring can be installed the wrong way. Make sure when fitted the spring isn't contacting the cover, if it is remove it and install the other way."

Maybe that detailed explanation is in @Lucky Phil's Shift Improvement thread . . .

One way up it drags on the cover. Ciao

I absolutely adore ferries and, most especially, while on a motorcycle!

My next stop should be #21; Point Bolivar Lighthouse; It should be interesting since there is a ferry ride between Galveston and Point Bolivar.

This App. is aimed at those who travel professionally and need to track expenses. I am not subscribed, so I don't have access to the reporting. I can only take screen shots of the stats. My airbag App tracks my speed and mileage. However, I don't have access to the data. Otherwise, I could correlate. I need more mileage before I can decide what Ethanol free gas does, or does not.

Sounds like that other big spring is not correctly installed, ask how I now. Goes easy thru all gears with the plate in your hand. Only first, and neutral on the bike. Just my suqestion. Cheers Tom.

So you have aligned the dots on the gear wheels and then shifted the mechanism into neutral to fit? It's hard to see on your low res image but it looks to be a tooth out to me. Ciao

After fighting the voltage regulator, loose bullet connecter under tank and now this hopefully time to ride and put up the wrenches for a while.

I have a LiFePO4 type Shorai battery in my bike. For cold starting, they say: "If starting at 5°C, headlights on for 30 seconds will help wake the battery and increase cranking performance. If at -17°C, leave the lights on for 4~5 minutes before cranking. The result will be a better first crank, and longer battery life. If the engine fails to start on first crank, that first crank has warmed the battery, and the second attempt will be much stronger." So Phil makes a good point. The Shorai LFX21L6-BS12 cranks my V11 well.

The center pad is an Eazi-Grips universal type B "Pro" pad. Ironically, I called in my order and the guy who took it misunderstood. I had asked for the universal"E". Oh, well. I agree that it matches the contours of the tank pretty well. The universal products, as well as bike specific pads and grips, are offered in Evo, Pro, and Silicone. Evo has pretty significant raised domes for more aggressive/track riding. The Pro has some tactile relief. The silicone, I gather, is smooth -- the website photos don't really give a great sense. This will please @Lucky Phil: Many of the shape and grip options are available in clear. Too late for Bubbles, though.

The system is basically, fuel pump to left injector to right injector to fuel pressure regulator. The fuel pressure regulator regulates fuel pressure by controlling the flow back into the tank. The more it restricts fuel flow back into the fuel tank the higher fuel pressure is. The less it restricts fuel flow the lower fuel pressure is. The system is pretty much constantly flowing fuel and recirculating it from the pump past the injectors and back into the tank. It is not designed to be a dead head system. It is designed to have a supply and return. The return is at the fuel pressure regulator. Of note, that exposed nipple on the fuel pressure regulator is just a reference to atmosphere. It is supposed to be empty, to not have a hose on it. It give the fuel pressure regulator a reference to atmospheric pressure.

You can see the return fuel line routing in this image, courtesy of @Tom in Virginia: Here's another:

Hard to say about the pinging but if your shifting into 6th gear at anything below 100kph/60mph then you're looking for trouble in that department. Ciao

Have the throttle bodies been balanced at "some rpm?" No mention of TPS baseline. Or CO Fuel Trim. What fuel are you running?

I had pretty crappy fuel economy till i discovered a nasty crack in my mistral crossover. It was right next to the lambda sensor too. Actually i’ve only just last week had it repair welded and popped it back on the bike.

It's not only the tread that wears and degrades but the carcase as well. New tyres feel and steer nicely because the carcase isn't fatigued and degraded through millions of flex cycles and is it's true shape and stiffness. Ciao

I was afraid of what it might have been about....

Manufacturer was doing a race in Vegas and very busy. I'll try to touch base with him this week. I left sample parts with him, so I thought I'd go back through Gettysburg and see him in the shop, take pics of carbon cloth options to post here. May not happen until I have a reason to go through there or a really nice day without responsibilities for a two hour ride each way. Still going to be a couple months... Planning on a batch of 12 to 15, with requested variants. Cheers, Frey

So I've just been rebuilding my throttle bodies due to bush wear and leaking seals. Although this is for the Daytona side flow bodies the top feed bodies are exactly the same in detail. So first thing to do is remove the throttle bodies which requires separating the cross supports on the bike. The top steel support fasteners come out fairly easily but the lower alloy cross brace held by the countersunk 5mm bolts are super hard. Dont even consider removing these without heat and a lot of concentrated heat. You need a fine tip oxy torch with a hard flame. So it needs a lot of heat directly on the head of the screw for longer than is really comfortable. Forget using a small propane torch it wont be enough. Even a soft flame with the oxy isn't enough. You only need to remove 2 screws on one throttle body lower brace as this will allow both to be removed and both ends of the upper steel brace which as I said the screws remove easily.A word or warning or caution here. My advice is to use the heat as described on the L/H throttle body screws only and leave the R/H alone. Reason being is that the aluminium cross brace on the R/H side has been milled to a fairly thin section and can be damaged on the end by the conducted heat. You wont haw any issues on the L/H side as the brace is a much heavier section. After you remove the throttle bodies the shaft is held in buy a circlip on one side. The left needs the throttle cable sector removed first. Dont undo the nut without restraining the cable sector itself so the torque isn't transmitted through the shaft. You also need to remove the throttle plate assy. This is the trickiest part of the job. The 2 4mm screws that hold the throttle plate have the tail end staked. You need to grind the tails off the screws so they can be removed. I did this with a die grinder and a carbon tungsten cutter and reused the screws on one set of throttle bodies but will use new Titanium screws on the other. Mark the throttle plate so you can install it in the correct orientation.(Importanto) Also try and make sure there are no distorted/damaged threads left after grinding off the staking as you dont want to damage the threads in the throttle shaft whilst unscrewing the fasteners. Best way to do this is to grind the screws down to almost flush with the the shaft and carefully remove them. If they jam up a little screw them back in and use a small right angle pick to clean up the distorted thread and try again.The shaft only has a few threads in it so it's important they aren't damaged. It's not as hard as it sounds just take time and caare removing the screws. Here's an image of the completed installation. I'll add an image of the staked screws before grinding later. Here's the circlip with the washer under it and under the washer is the seal. Hears the other side with a new seal installed just for reference. Note the orientation of the seal which looks backwards but this is the way it needs to be. Remember the vacuum is inside and the pressure ( atmospheric) is outside which is opposite to most instillation. Half the original seals were around the wrong way and one was missing altogether on the 2 sets of throttle bodies I have done. Once the shaft has been removed its time to extract the old bushes. I used an old whitworth taper tap because I din't have a 9mm taper. Thread it into the bush about 5 turns and then use a drift from the opposite side on the end of the tap to knock out the bush. I use a piece of wood with a hole in it to support the TB. Here's what you end up with, an old bush on the tap. TB with bush removed. Next up clean out the bushing bore and apply a little grease of your choice in preparation to install the new bush. Here's the new bushes and seals. Bushes are Glycodur brand DU bushes p/n 081008F although any standard DU 8x10x8 bush will be fine. Cost around $2 each. The seals are Yamaha p/n 256-14997-00-(00) at around $3 each. EDIT..... These Viton ones look even better but more pricey. https://ca-cycleworks.com/t-seal.html I made up a simple installation tool to press the bushes in. very simple. Next use the tool to press in the new bush. New bush and seal installed. Repeat for the other side. Refit the shaft and seals in the correct orientation and refit the cir-clip and washer and re fit the cable sector and shaft nut supporting the sector as you tighten the nut. So to install the throttle plate insert it in the correct orientation as you marked it during removal and install the screws loosely. Make sure the throttle plate and shaft is completely closed with the throttle plate against the throttle body bore( back off the idle screw if fitted so the plate contacts the TB bore to align the plate) then tighten the screws. I haven't staked the screws but used blue loctite on them. I've never found a throttle plate screw loose in the 3 sets I've had apart and they dont even use Loctite. The staking isn't to stop the screw loosening only to prevent it coming completely undone, so you can get a turn out of the screws before the staking stops any further rotation. There is a risk in re staking that you might bend or distort the shaft and I'm comfortable with the Loctite doing its job. I have however used some witness marks and can easily check them from time to time but I'm confident it wont be an issue. Later TB's have the screw heads on the upstream side of the throttle plate. Thats it. The only tricky part is die grinding the tails off the throttle plate screws in reality. The rest can be done easily with hand tools and a vice. You now get nice tight shafts which seal well dont drip fuel onto the engine and give a stable idle and easier TPS base setting. Here are some options for the R/H throttle body arm ball fitting. Mercedes but cant remember the p/n. Requires removal of the old ball. Use if ball is worn. Handy bolt on style and works well. There are quite a few of this style available for 8mm ball and 5mm r/h threaded shaft. Plastic/metal and metal with seal. Plenty of choices. Volvo part which has a releasable clip to aid removal. Volvp P/N 946703. $7US each on ebay. Ciao