Leaderboard

I finally got a decent ride out of the old girl today! I was putting a speedbleeder in the clutch piston, and after removing the swingarm I found the bearings were seized solid 😠. Like totally solid. The pivot nubs must’ve been rotating independently within the races. You try and do one little job eh? So, once more unto the pluckin breach then! Those bearings are b*stards straight from satan’s worse dreams. I had forgotten I’d done this job on my last v11; must’ve blanked it for sanity’s sake… But, new bearings in (lovely fag ones- fags are so nice haha) and blow me down but i think the rear suspension is actually working as it should now. I kept wondering why I wasn’t feeling confident in the corners before but now we’re back in business!

Whoaa there fella! Don’t break it or buy a new unit. What i did was reach in with a set of tin snips and cut bits off it till it was small enough to drop out. It’s only very thin metal so cuts very easily.

The diffuser is necessary for old H4 bulbs. The ones the sell today have a diffuser on the tip of the bulb. If your diffuser is still not touching the reflector, you might be able to get it out through the hole of the light-bulb. Then it is good to go again.

I developed this exact problem on my '04 Ballabio last year. It occurred after a particularly high speed burst on the motorway. In my case, it was indeed air in the system. I bled the slave cylinder but also installed a bleeder banjo bolt on the master cylinder at the high point of the hydraulic system. Made of titanium, it is of excellent quality and not all that costly. A good addition in any event.

A brand new headlight does something, I think. Got it from Germany 7months ago. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-A525F via Tapatalk

Dank u wel....thanks all for the insights. Will take out the headlight and see if the light can be opened up and diffuser repaired, since it's a black outer shell, I presume it's the outer plastic bucket. Looks like the diffuser has a broken tab. Interesting that the new Stein Dinse replacement does not have a diffuser, wonder if that is a brighter headlight than the OEM one.

You can buy a new reflector at Stein Dinse. It is not in the catalogus, but they do sell it. Or the Dutch representative of SD has another source for this. JRE Robers motoren.

Are you sure you don't have air in the clutch system? Air in a hydraulic clutch can cause decreased throw of the pressure plate, causing clutch drag. Because the air compresses.

It is all fine. I think incident happens. I have not yet spoken to the guy who was driving it, but I will. So far, I only spoken to the owner. I want to get a full understanding on how a simple turn at a red light causes someone to lose control. There maybe a perfectly valid explanation, I simply want to hear it from the horse's mouth. They sent me a text the car is ready for pickup. But tomorrow I am planning to go to Beaumont to check out that 101 Dalmatians fire hydrant. On that topic, I never ever drive someone else's car or motorcycle. I am always afraid this kind of incident could happen. Even if you are not responsible, you still feel like you are.

Factory headlamp with a Vintage car led bulb. Cheers Tom.

Thanks Docc! It looks like Digi-Key has stock, they're $2.55 each....I think I'll pull the trigger....I'll buy 5. Art

When I got my bike, the inside surface of the lens had a smoky film on it. That could not stand. So, I took a cotton 'shooter's swab' and made a wire extension for the handle, then soaked the cotton in Windex. Looking from the front, I made sure to clean the entire inner surface of the lens. The result was that it is now clear as it was supposed to be. The film came from??? Maybe the assembly worker was smoking...

So, it does work. You just can't have as much free play as you want. A slightly longer push rod should do very much the same thing, take out the dead travel, as adjusting that. What if you just upgrade the clutch lever to an adjustable clutch lever. Then you could remove the excess free play and still put the lever where you want it.

Thanks for your replies. In my case, I am not so shure if a longer pushrod is a solution, because when I adust the clutch lever adjusting screw all the way in (out of its normal position) the clutch relase ok. This is however not a good solution, the clutchlever is too far from the handlebar, and almost zero distance to the clutch piston. I have order a new 13 mm clutchcylinder, a report will come 😀 Jens Martin

I've looked at that and the V11 drive plate isn't robust enough (too thin a section) and has a tapered face. You could machine off the original plate and weld on a heavier one and machine it to true it up I guess or machine up a whole new unit and get the splines cut. The V11 drive bore is also different to the MGS-01 unit. Ciao

You could make one from a V11 Hub GU01335230. It would involve some cutting and machining, but the MGS01 uses the V11 bevel box.

Just had my headlight out and for the life of me cannot remember if the reflector is crimped around the lens or not. If it is bonded, the adhesive may be sliced open and the "shield" epoxied back in place. Any number of adhesives would then bond the lens and reflector, with a high-temp silicone perhaps being ideal.

The Scura is the later plastic bucket, @PJPR01 ? (The earlier, Bosch, steel bucket of the RedFrame Sports can be opened without damage.)

Probably best to search for a new unit: https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?products_id=322555 I was able to change the broken front glass on my 03 Rosso Corsa with that from a sport...now I'm not sure if it would work for your situation. Stock replacements were few even 15 years ago. I remember having to slowly use a dremel with a cut off wheel to remove the glass from the sport headlight. I wanted the clear lens off the sport, I think (this was years ago) that I was able to seal the new lens back on my existing lemans bucket, but the sport unit was trashed in the process of getting the glass. Doing research back then, I believe a early to mid 2000's BMW headlight module could replace the stock unit, but it had fluted glass, unlike the clear lens on the MG. I run a plexiglass cover over my headlight now to ward off rock strikes.

I ordered directly from Facility in France it was $470 shipped to US. They make a higher quality more expensive version but the basic shock works well for me.

What is that? "A hub?"

Well, 100% of the damage and then some should be credited and fixed...I do apologize that I sent you in that direction away from your normal location, I'm sure you'll talk to the chief in charge and let him know his reputation is on the line here.

The "spray foot powder" will help solve the mystery. It very well could be more than one source.

Having a black engine does not help the trouble shooting. I did check the tightness of the hoses connections to the oil radiator.

Hi, 2002 Scura for sale. Second owner, 8100 miles, very good condition, runs well, recent service. Lower kit for gearshift and rear brake. I have rear seat cover (not pictured). Asking $4500. In northern NJ, please contact me v11@kretz.net if interested.

Easter Sunday ride around Derbyshire. Meeting at the Matlock Bath Pavilion

At first review, a slight discrepancy between the rating printed on the case (NO:30A/NC:25A) and the data sheet (NO:30A/NC:20A). Now, twenty amps across the NC contacts is really fine even for an early V11 where the #1/Starter relay is running the current to the #2/Headlight Relay (that is fed from a 15 amp fuse). Just not okay to expect a NC:10amp relay to survive that duty indefinitely. Now, just a discrepancy, not a deal breaker. The contact material is a silver alloy, which puts it ahead of the common GEI (copper alloy). Otherwise, the "data sheet" is a bit short on specification. The coil wattage (which "may be" a measure of coil strength) is not given. Nor is the amperage rating specified between inrush current and continuous current (desirable for our application). This is awfully common to these spec sheets, but it seems the higher the relay quality, the more detailed is the data sheet. I'm on my 7th set of different relays from making preemptive changes, but I am no electrical expert by any means! Over the course, I have endeavored to learn the terminology and functional nature of relays. I wish the data sheets were standardized! I have seen and assisted in many V11 relay failures over these many years (and SpineRaids!). My only relay failures involved my last full set of OMRON G8HE (I ran the lower rated G8HN for nine years with no failures). I traced the G8HE failures to a faulty regulator along with a failing stator (failed yellow wire at the strain point) and theorized I must have been getting some horrendous voltage spikes.

Adhering to the advice per this thread, I can assume that every rider has an assortment of take-off relays as spares in their tankbags.

No earthing or ground issue here. The problem seems to be overheating of the coil. No ground, no current, no heat. I'm somewhat tempted to say he should drill a hole in the back of the coils to let the surplus voltage out, to get some additional internal cooling and, probably best of all, to establish a manhole for regular spray maintenance. [image]www.hk-auto.de/grafik/Emblem/zuend.gif[/image]

As a general comment and not aimed at you specifically I can't tell you how all much I lament this expression. Isn't there enough actual "trigger pulling" in the world these days not the least in the States. Ciao