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Scura Love

You mean the wood stove? Isn't Voglezang a brand of stove, or is it a style? My stove in the shop is just one of the double barrel stoves, where the kit with the door and feet is purchased cheap, and you add the barrels and a chimney. But heats fast and strong. Lot better than the propane options i've tried out there over the years that leave strange humidity and not enough heat. Inside the house is my hat-tip to the couple good Norwegians on this forum, as that's where I have my beloved big Norwegian Jotul stove. It's other title is my task-master. I spend too much time cutting firewood when i should be working on the motorcycle! My old house is too old and drafty, so the Jotul demands to be well fed. But in fairness it also keeps my 85 yr old father active, as he runs that chainsaw all summer... For those so inclined, the book "norwegian wood" is a quirky and interesting read. Yes, the multi-play on words is intended. figured it was just a coffee table book with nifty pics, but ended up being an interesting read.

You did not include the usual Murphy law: if anything can go wrong, it will! I am going to get the gasket first.

Tank off, front subframe off, alternator cover and alternator off plus a few other bits and pieces as well as the cover itself. Honestly without the "its a 10 minute job" thing maybe you'd have it off in an hour and a half being careful. My as well change out the crank seal while you have the cover off as well. Ciao

Valpolini are from what I've seen a plain metal based gasket with what looks like a pressure sensitive sealant coating. I've used them on rocker covers and they are very good and far superior to the composite gaskets of any kind, silicon or otherwise. The Guzzi timing cover gasket is a similar style but a true "crimped metal" gasket with pressure sensitive sealant so the metal base has been formed to provide some spring to it which means it doesn't rely entirely on the sealant. The "spring" means it adapts to expansion and contraction very well as the engine heat cycles. It's virtually a single layer MLS head gasket in effect. It also provides a more solid layer between the two sealed components so there is not relaxing of the gasket and the securing screws maintain their tension. Cioa

Got a reply from AMSOIL:

A pair of High Mount muffler brackets from an early SportI (97 me thinks) They are the same piece used with the Ti muffler kit on the later Sport/LM just silver instead of black. They were used with the addition of a flat 1/4" thick bracket (not included but a traced drawing provided from my other set, seen on the box top and easily made) $60.US shipped conus. A new tranny/frame brace for the red frame models IS SOLD. One of Don's production, unused. $45.US shipped conus. Shift Linkage Arm Is SOLD - Thanks! An extended shift linkage arm unused. One of the first runs from Chuck. I got an extra and won't need it. IIRC they were $50.US plus ship. Tell me if I've misremembered the cost. Paypal 'friends' please or snail me a check is fine. Thanks

Back in the 80's, Northern tool used to sell the barrel stove kits made by Vogelzang and I actually believe they were an asian knock-off. We built one for our shop and used mostly pallet wood , and it worked great. 3500 foot shop area and we mounted a pedestal fan behind the upper barrel and would heat up the whole shop in a hurry. Nowadays your right, they make stoves but back in the day they only had the kits for DIY'ers. Paul B

It was kept in a shed, that must have leaked. And spent its only active riding year in seattle where there's salt and rain... As i go through it i'm wiping off a lot of grime and mildew type stuff. But underneath in most cases is usually a "gleaming" surface of some sort, except in those cases where its bad, and then its often real bad.

Update on this matter. A new master cylinder was not a huge success, I think I will live with it this way, maybe it will improve with some driving. Beside that, this new clutch plate has improved the behavior of the bike, it is not so "brutal" at downshifts anymore. Jens Martin

https://ventura-bike.com/

My deep 32mm; https://ibb.co/XLZZwwq

I looked at Cash1000's stand, and thought I could make one like it, but red, and with wheels. It has plastic clevises to avoid marking the pork-chops.

Yes I got an almost identical one when I bought my bike, Damaged paint to the pork chops and dangerous as hell to use, with the bike moving backwards about 6 inches as it rolls onto the stand. You were also unsighted to one of the nut supports when using it and hoped it hadn't moved out of position as you moved the bike upright and got it settled. It was so dodgy I stopped using it. Anyone that wants it can have it for nothing. The beauty of the socket type with wheels is the stand stays captive on the mount nuts so the stand can't disconnect from the bike and the stand rotates safely and controllable under the bike on its own wheels. It also means you can roll the bike into a front wheel chock so it's vertical and lift the rear of the bike while in the chock. For the sake of $150 or so the other type isn't worth the risk. Ciao

Another Photo

Or you could make your own factory stand or MartyNZ has an even better one that he might like to show here

2 hours ago, Lucky Phil said: Tank off, front subframe off, alternator cover and alternator off plus a few other bits and pieces as well as the cover itself. Honestly without the "its a 10 minute job" thing maybe you'd have it off in an hour and a half being careful. My as well change out the crank seal while you have the cover off as well. Ciao I had forgotten about all that crap having to come off to do that job; as LP says, I seem to recall a small seal on that shaft, and iirc you need a special little tool to pop the alternator off. I had made a home made one out of an old screw driver that worked better than the one I bought from EME, fwiw. Make sure you have that tool and be patient and careful doing that part of the job, I've read far too many horror stories of guys getting the tool stuck in there and Murphy's law can turn it into quite the adventure. Patience and good luck

Maybe docc but I measured a spare crank and it may be a close thing. From memory I don't think a std deep is long enough. I bought one of these, an extra deep. https://www.australianonlinecarparts.com.au/32mm-x-1-2-dr.-extra-deep.-6pt.impact-skt-127mm-lo It's internal depth is 105mm and overall length 125mm Edit... I dont think thats long enough docc at about 93mm overall length. Ciao

your pic makes it look too small, maybe just a trick of photography? Mine looks like this I put the 22mm there for size comparison.

Seeing as how you have a LeMans it could be a little more involved than any of the other V11 models. Have you ever had the fairing off ? Thats the easy part ....10 bolts and its off. I was going to write this up but decided against it. It can be a bit intimidating. If you are going to be crawling around on the floor, your gonna hate this job. If you have a lift you will just learn some new words.. I think the front triangle frame needs to come out because of the horn and voltage reg mountings might block access to the top of the cover. make sure you have a very good set of Allen sockets and make sure you have a good bite when loosening the fasteners. when you get closer to doing the job let us know. I have done this quite a few times

"Unless the aircraft is unserviceable and grounded don't start the component removal process until you have the replacement part in your hand" How may times did I need to reinforce this to the aircraft mechanics I supervised. Plus the crank seal. Even if you don't change it it wont cost any extra shipping and if you damage the original during the process you'll have one on hand. Ciao

Do tell. Ciao

That's a "get you home fix docc". Ciao

Would it be a horrible bodge, or a waste of time, or a risk of worsening, to drag a pick along that leaking juncture / clean it well with a solvent, and apply an RTV silicone from the outside, working it into the seam? Field expedient?

Fuglesang in squarehead language. Nice project, Legnano is special. I woud start with a spray can of good solvent more than once. Happy tlc Greg. Cheers Tom.

Worthy project! You can count on us for background noise!

I did not know they are different. Thanks for the clarification! @p6x asked, "Can this timing chest/case can be removed without taking the engine down completely? " The answer is, "yes." Other things have to get out of the way. Someone did this recently and posted. Maybe @andy york or @Pressureangle in one of the Timing Gears threads . . .

I'll state my understanding here without citation of sources, which I've either buried or failed to save. ZDDP works by attaching ionic molecules to the base metal, creating a boundary layer of ZDDP which is far more durable and scuff-resistant than the base metal. ZDDP is bad for the lifespan of catalytic converters, so they first limited the amount added, then by the SG oil classification eliminated it almost entirely. My recent research into gear oils and greases led also to the knowledge that Boron/Moly compounds are replacing ZDDP as extreme pressure additives, but they work with a different chemical strategy-I'm not sure if they stack up in pores, or attach chemically, but they are an order of magnitude more slippery than ZDDP when in place and apparently do less harm to cats. Don't have meaningful information at hand, but I don't think 'overplating' is an issue as much as the 'minimum required amount' of ZDDP. An old automotive V8 has a lot more surfaces to cover than a V2, and generally holds less oil per surface inch. Meh, the ZDDP content per quart is probably the 'minumim required' balanced with 'least material cost'.

Yeah, I would not wind on the white knob anymore until the balance tool is set up. There is a mechanical method to pre-set the balance at idle. I think @gstallons posted this procedure. Might be a way to get your throttle rod back close to balance before the Balance Tool can be used . . .

Heage Windmill classic bike day, fantastic turnout of Guzzi’s, only one V11 there though!

Hi, 2002 Scura for sale. Second owner, 8100 miles, very good condition, runs well, recent service. Lower kit for gearshift and rear brake. I have rear seat cover (not pictured). Asking $4500. In northern NJ, please contact me v11@kretz.net if interested.

I rather like how the 2x2 carbon fiber matches my Z-Leathers and AGV helmet . . . But also, the Fender tweed on my Bassman amp . . .

First 30 odd km driven. No problems so far. The sound alone is probably adding 12HP and 20NM Like others have, I noted a rise in idle of about 200rpm. Still early days, but so far I've had none of the ~3000rpm hick-ups at low load. My chain tensioner showed visible grooves after 65000Km so there might have been an issue with (whatstheword?) chain lash? affecting timing.