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I had a similar situation after putting the Ram Clutch in the Scrua..The friction plate is slightly thicker..One of the things I did was to zip tie the clutch lever pulled to the bars and leave it while not riding it for the first several rides..I've done this with other bikes and it does help a little bit if their is any air bubbles in the line in clutch or brakes...over night they can slowly rise to the top. Another thing is , How many miles do you have on the new clutch? after I rode mine I noticed mine would just get slightly better and not drag as much and it began to find neutral a little easier.., I even intentionally slipped the clutch a little more than usual on occasion, It was suggested by an older and highly regarded mechanic friend of mine that it would get better after a couple of hundred miles..and it did...its about 80% better to the point it doesn't bother me at all anymore...... My 2 Cents

I am encouraged! Original 2000 Chin Pad on left, after ShinEtsu. 2002 used part on right.

Those of us with the early Sports 1999-2001 have a tank with the fuel pump external and a foam "chin pad" on the top of the tank. It's held on with a pair of steel ball inserts that capture into rubber oval grommets attached to the tank top. After strapping down a tank bag for over ten years, the chin pad's inner structure deformed and it no longer captured well in the grommets. I've heard of them going missing and "re-contoured" (bent) the pad back to a better fit. While removing the filler cap ring to touch up its finish scratched from fuel nozzles, I discovered the front chin pad nut had detached from the pad leaving only the one fastener to keep it (from going missing). I've attempted to recapture the nut with a contact adhesive and RTV silicone while the paints cure on my filler ring. Just a "heads-up" on checking your chin pad connection to be sure yours doesn't go missing!

I had the pleasure to see it in the flesh and it is indeed a stunning and tastefully detailed machine. High level of craftsmanship, chapeau mister!@KINDOY2

The Chin Pad was really difficult to pull off (better than it flying off at speed!). I treated the rubber capture grommets (as well as the rubber fuel filler surround) to the delight of ShinEtsu grease. I never noticed that rubber surround on the fuel neck before . . .

MG Cycle has them: 02517700 - $18.58 - Aluminum Eagle emblem, alternator cover, various uses GU02517700 [02517700] : MG Cycle, Moto Guzzi Parts and Accessories available online at MGCycle.com

Thanks guys...It was a labor of love...( and $$$$)

Interesting. I’d never tried S100 till last fall, as i had lumped it into the snake oil category with so many other miracle items, but a guy i know said it worked well for him. Tried it on my Duc wheels, as they are the spoked tubeless wheels and really hard to reach when cleaning, and didn’t seem to do anything, so that bottle sits on the shelf. Maybe its ok for other parts of the bike (?), but not working on wheels, and then not being good for the logos, well thats not a case for s100 so far for me… living on a gravel road was what caused me years ago to sell my beloved ST4… couldn’t take the anguish any more of it always rattling up and down that road, and always being dirty. I got over that, regretted selling the ST4, and then the county paved over half of the remaining gravel, so I got back on the wicked Italian bike wagon. But am still always interested in easier ways to clean the machines, as there’s still a bit of unpaved road left on my road. And the V11’s don’t rattle like the ST’s, with way fewer plastic bits. :->

No, I don't have one. I only found Ventura while investigating a rack for my Son's LeMans.

You don't need heat, you need leverage. An impact gun and appropriate *impact* socket is the least difficult, but you'll have to remove the front wheel for access. I did mine with the 'ring spanner' but I do admit to spending some time sussing out angles, access, and holding the bike in place while I applied torque.

New Zealand Moto Guzzi Rally is on Labour Weekend 2022 hopefully Motor Bike | Tattley Rappet Moto Guzzi Rally New Zealand | New Zealand

After cleaning the original Chin Pad with mild, warm, soapy water and drying . . . tested with a bit of ShinEtsu grease. I've tried "other" products on the ChinPad and only made it worse. I would not have tried this without the replacement on hand . . . (original on left): Scary, I know.

My "Chin Pad" has become weathered, and greyed, mottled, and showing the years and usage of my Sport's miles (along with a lot of tank bag that I no longer use). @KINDOY2 helped me source a replacement that gave me the opportunity to try and rescue my original (right):

Oh, hey, and: certain cleaning solutions are notorious for dissolving these adhesive "tapes" and send the little badges to the highway. Both "SuperClean" and "S100" come to mind . . . Not "adhesive tape" compatible!

That particular Scura is an AMAZING complete refurb having addressed every known issue to both V11 and the Scura. So well done! Even more so when the "starting point" is considered . . .

https://ventura-bike.com/

I looked at Cash1000's stand, and thought I could make one like it, but red, and with wheels. It has plastic clevises to avoid marking the pork-chops.

A brand new headlight does something, I think. Got it from Germany 7months ago. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-A525F via Tapatalk

So, it does work. You just can't have as much free play as you want. A slightly longer push rod should do very much the same thing, take out the dead travel, as adjusting that. What if you just upgrade the clutch lever to an adjustable clutch lever. Then you could remove the excess free play and still put the lever where you want it.

I developed this exact problem on my '04 Ballabio last year. It occurred after a particularly high speed burst on the motorway. In my case, it was indeed air in the system. I bled the slave cylinder but also installed a bleeder banjo bolt on the master cylinder at the high point of the hydraulic system. Made of titanium, it is of excellent quality and not all that costly. A good addition in any event.

That's a sharp shot, @LowRyter!