Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/20/2022 in all areas

  1. Just finished the installation of the Hyperpro, it fits perfectly fine. Just have to make sure the adjuster knob is pointed as far upward as possible.
    2 points
  2. Revisiting this forum's kind and helpful advice. Just mounted mySport's 26th front tire and the left side bearing was declared "noisy." 65,000 miles since the Turkish SNF replacement at 60,000 miles seems proper. For the V11 whose front axle shoulders on the right (20mm ID) bearing and the spacer extends through the left (larger, 25mm ID) bearing with the chromed sleeve fitted to index the inside of the left fork leg, the bearings are actually straightforward to remove . . . The spacer has an internal shoulder against the inside of the left side bearing inner race and can be used to drift our the right side bearing with a soft hammer, brass or copper or a soft drift. Once the right side bearing drops out , the spacer can be removed and the left bearing easily drifted out from inside the hub.
    2 points
  3. Well, after finding a second Bronze Norge that the owner sold out from under me three days before I was scheduled to pick it up, I've became a bit gun shy of that color (bad mojo). So, this one is purchased and on the way home next week. 2013 model.
    2 points
  4. That's what I call fast! arrived safe & sound today. Thanks again, can't wait to check it out.
    1 point
  5. But did Tony Foale get his backbone frame inspiration from Fritz Egli ?
    1 point
  6. Makes me wonder, what rpm goes together with that song , Not an exiting valley trip, I think, but good audio on mod 19 Altec Lansing. Cheers Tom
    1 point
  7. Putting the bike on a lift and using a jack to raise it to get the front wheel off is relatively easy. Getting it up in the air, supported, balanced and tied off securely so you can remove both wheels at the same time; requires some careful thought and planning. My Tonti frames with a center stand are child's play in comparison. fwiw ymmv jmho
    1 point
  8. I try-so-hard to hear this in my head riding the Sport . . . "What do you listen to?"
    1 point
  9. I hear you Docc, what sounds like a good idea seems a little risky with a 500lbs bike... I would not try that solo.
    1 point
  10. I would need a couple other capable guys to back mySport up onto the lift into the chock. Solo? No way. Y'all come, now! Ya hear?
    1 point
  11. Hear, Hear good people. The Lucky Phil engineered/ Chuck developped shifter extented bracket is not dead! If you want to own a historic part, spawned from a community of dedicated preservationist of the mighty V11 Sport and smooth out yer shifting in the process, now is the time to sign up... Thanks @Chuck
    1 point
  12. Oh, yes! Tony Foale is very likely the original designer of what became the "Spine Frame." While Foale may have called the main frame member the "backbone", I wonder what he might have called those "rear frame side plates" that mount the swingarm . . .
    1 point
  13. Tony Foale was (is) a mad scientist racing Aermacchi, which all had from '61 until '73 a single-tube frame which looks and mounts *very* much like the MG 'spine' frame. Lightweight and apparently sufficiently rigid torsionally- but it's plain if you've watched the '95 BEARS Raceco bike weaving and wobbling everywhere staying in front of the Brittens that the limits were found. The term 'frame backbone' goes back farther than I can remember.
    1 point
  14. I'm running this in the Coppa: https://www.royalpurple.com/product/hps-high-performance-street-motor-oil/ Silicon = 7 ppm (anti-foaming agent in new oil, but in used oil, certain gasket materials and dirt can also add to this number), Boron = <5 ppm (detergent/dispersant), Magnesium = 46 ppm (detergent/dispersant), Calcium = 3626 ppm (detergent/dispersant), Barium = <1 ppm (detergent/dispersant), Zinc = 1774 ppm (anti-wear), Phos = 1347 ppm (anti-wear), Moly = 189 ppm (anti-wear), Potassium = 11 ppm (anti-freeze inhibitor), Sodium = 2 ppm (anti-freeze inhibitor), TBN = 10.2 (Total Base Number is an acid neutralizer to prevent corrosion.)
    1 point
  15. Do yourself a huge favour and invest in a battery Voltmeter, these are a simple meter powered by the Voltage its measuring (don't start reading until about 6 Volts). They may not be as accurate as your $400 Fluke but will be within a decimal place and its all relative. https://www.amazon.ca/Digital-Display-Voltmeter-Waterproof-Motorcycle/dp/B09RHC8F1R/ref=sr_1_10?adgrpid=1354598749278790&hvadid=84662606610933&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=5064&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-84662659551773%3Aloc-32&hydadcr=15054_10414350&keywords=battery%2Bvoltmeter%2Bgauge&qid=1652968443&sr=8-10&th=1 Get the waterproof one with the convex surface, I have seen them for as little as $3, buy one of every colour and save on shipping cost, give them away to your buddies. IMHO the best place to wire a Voltmeter is across the park light, that only comes on when the ignition is on and the circuit is lightly loaded, don't chop into the main loom, just wire it across the bulb in the bucket using a pair of small wires chopped off an old phone charger, it will take all the guesswork out of your charging system. On my non VII bikes I just pinch an 18 gauge sheetmetal bracket between the handlebar clamps, drill the large hole with a step drill and polish with a buff. You won't be able to read the display in bright sunlight but just shield it from the sun with your glove or read it passing through a shady spot.
    1 point
  16. Yep, I tend to think the same mate... ie it should fit. Cheers Guzzler Ps then again it is a Guzzi and Italian so there may be some arcane ritual to be performed prior to installation...?
    1 point
  17. You know I do all my own work (usually) but I was quite happy to let the local WP service center give them a mechanical rebuild and facelift for only a couple hun; replacing bushings is something best accomplished with correct tools- which requires in my experience either time and money to acquire the 'official' tool (which lays unused for eternity after) or 3 trips to Home Depot for the correct (?) size PVC pipe to cut into a tool. What broke the camel's back and drove me to outsource it wasn't that WP is literally a half hour drive, but that I couldn't find online a way to be certain of what fork I have and educate myself on the process before I took them apart- or halfway apart. FWIW here's your nearest WP service center; WOOLY'S CYCLES OF ATLANTA Address 1581 Cobb Pkwy S 30060 Marietta, GA There are few things I hate more than taking something apart and being stuck for parts or tools while I forget where I was and how it fits back together. Like my Sport with no TBI linkage. Or my Mille GT waiting for spoke nipples from Sweden. Or my Aermacchi starter needing a register bored for the Suzuki upgrade. I have nothing that works properly today.
    1 point
  18. Not sure if this will work but here goes..........
    1 point
  19. Furthering our noble efforts to clarify the V11 nomenclature (we are the world's foremost experts on the Moto Guzzi V11) @FreyZI's current thread "Sign-up list for new carbon fiber seat cowls" has had some fun with "what-to-call-what" . . . I'm to the point of saying that your LeMans >might< have "PorkChops", but mySport : nope
    1 point
  20. It goes with the Barry White song he plays when he gets busy... "Oh baby..."
    1 point
  21. Sounds good. What / where is the factory stand? Have not heard of this before.
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...