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Ever since a kid I have been pulling stuff apart to see how it works, and why it don't of course. I carried on through my career as an electrician and instrument technician why should I change now LOL https://ibb.co/JdRY2x0

Throttle body balance today for the “grape ape” at Twiggers in Loughborough. Although they haven’t sold new Guzzi’s for several years, and the retail part of the business is now closed, their workshop is open for repairs & servicing. There aren’t many independent Guzzi specialists left in the UK, and I value being only 15 miles away

That’s a great tip I can use!

I have a Blue-Point made by Jaco that's about ... 40? Years old now. Doesn't have the safety relief but has been reliable, accurate, and consistent across time. I did have to replace the plastic disc in the pressure release button once about 15 years ago.

I learned about JACO from a trusted friend, SpineRaider, and expert technician. I like the analog dial, built in pressure relief valve, and angled chuck (they have other products and configurations): https://jacosuperiorproducts.com/collections/tire-pressure-gauges/products/tire-pressure-gauge-elitepro-series-100-psi

Yep! That is such an interesting Sport with a nice blend of various tasty bits. Welldone, there! (I tried the "Copy Image Link"/ hotlink to display an image of it here, but Flickr is on to me, so no-go.)

I got one of the first run in zinc chromate green more as a treasure and part of my pledge to support this community whenever possible. MySport was shifting fine, yet when I installed the ShiftExtender I noticed a significant improvement. Plus, it just looks cool-as-hell . . .

That's three..

Also, figured out that if you press the 'next' button through the ads on YT, start the ad on the next song, then 'back' your browser you get what you wanted to start with minus the 8 minutes of extortion for YT premium.

I haven't had much luck with *anything* I've purchased over the past 10 years. I assume anything new is Harbor Freight, regardless of the label. The Chinese Conspiracy is pervasive.

Jack Gagne à gagné race one in Virginia. Petrucci was clearly not cutting it on this track. Finished four but 15 seconds behind the winner. I don't think the Ducati can do much on this kind of track, besides Danilo's ability. The three Yams went around him like he was not even there. This track looks more like a go-kart track than a motorbike raceway. Or is it just my impression?

Should we add an electrical theory forum to this site or is a part of the Moto Guzzi ownership included ? p.s. I thought I was the only one curious {stupid} enough to take off down the driveway with a coil in my hand seeing how much wire IS in a winding .

Well, I must say our Southern Hemisphere Brothers have totally come through for the rest of us through our "Winter of Riding Dreams." I suppose riding season may be coming into some weather-related limitations down there? I hope that we No'th-ners return the encouragement and inspiration while all-y'all charge batteries and fight off the mice&ice . . . Many thanks!

I don;t mean to speak for @FreyZI, but if you look at this topic title in the 24/7 V11 index, there is an "Answered" post that addresses the cost. Here is a link to the post with the "google sheet" of who has signed up and a synopsis of color and weave choices: And a link to the manufacturer's color selection (ad $65 for color Kevlar weave, IIRC): http://www.riggeals.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Color-Carbon-Samples2.jpg

I guess so, it's quite common in DC coils, other times they have a single coil then add resistance once the magnetic circuit is closed. AC coils don't need that because when the magnetic circuit is open the coil draws a lot more current, once the magnetic circuit is complete the reactance (AC resistance) goes up and the current drops. The factory don't seem to be aware of that, they only show one coil and don't allow for the heavy inrush current. As a consequence the wires and fuse is too small.

'Peak/Hold' is how it's referred to in Fuel Injectors.

It's not easy to measure the solenoid current you'll just have to trust me. I discovered that the solenoid has two coils one day when I was playing around with the 2001 VII Sport I had at the time. I put my meter on Ohms and measured the resistance from the solenoid spade to chassis, I was surprised to find less than 1 Ohm. That particular model VII has a direct feed to the start solenoid from the battery so it never suffered from Startus Interuptus, it would always crank. I did some further testing and found that the two coils measure 1.25 Ohms and 0.25 Ohms and will draw up to 60 Amps for a split second (you can calculate the current by simple Ohms Law 12 Volts / 1.25 Ohms = 9.6 Amps 12 Volts / 0.25 Ohms = 48 Amps for a total of 57.6 Amps (substitute a slightly higher Voltage and it 's well over 60) All Guzzis with electric starters have this double coil but if you look at any Guzzi schematic you will only see one, ask yourself could that be the reason the factory has never cured Startus Interuptus? If you look closely at the spade connector on the solenoid you should be able to see the two coil ends soldered to the terminal. I have pulled a solenoid apart and found each coil has around 300 turns of wire the reason there is such a difference in resistance, the lower resistance 0.25 Ohm uses a heavier gauge wire and it's wound on first so the wire is much shorter whereas the 1.25 Ohm coil is lighter gauge and the wire is much longer as its wound over the top. This heavy current only occurs if there is no resistance in series and it drops to just the 1.25 Ohm coil (~10 Amps) as soon as the solenoid contact closes 10 - 20 milliseconds after the start relay closes. On most bikes you will barely get 30 Amps through the ignition switch and spaghetti wiring so of course the solenoid is only pulling at half strength and waiting to fail. My apologies to Tesla, I will revert to something I learnt as an apprentice back in the 1970s The magnetic strength of an electrical coil is the product of the number of wire turns and the current flow expressed in Ampere-turns a unit not used very often these days . The 1.25 Ohm coil which I call the holding coil (because that's what it does) has 300 turns x 9.6 Amps = 2,880 Ampere Turns, that sounds like a lot until you calculate the other coil 300 x 48 = 14,400 Ampere Turns, so it's obviously doing the Lions share of the work, I call it the grunt coil because it does all its work in a split second, funny that the factory don't acknowledge this coil in their schematics. I'm sure some of you have had trouble with the 15 Amp fuse blowing, this happens as the resistance builds up so now the Grunt coil can't quite get the solenoid to move, it sits there drawing about 25 Amps for several seconds until the fuse pops. Why do the factory supply a 15 Amp fuse? my theory is they measure the solenoid current with a meter ~ 10 Amps, so a 15 would be appropriate, they completely miss the heavy current drawn by the Grunt coil because it happens so fast 15 - 30 milliseconds, too fast for the meter to catch. You can actually measure this peak current by disconnecting the main feed to the solenoid contact, then the high current will be there as long as the relay is closed. You probably think its just a simple circuit, the solenoid just pulls the starter in while the button is pressed but there's something interesting going on when you take your finger off the button, you no longer have power on the solenoid spade but the coils are still powered up via the closed main contact, now the coils are connected in series, current feeds back through the Grunt coil from the motor terminal to the spade terminal and so to the Holding coil to chassis. The thing is because its going backward through the Grunt coil and forward through the Holding coil and they both have 300 turns the fields cancel each other out so the solenoid lets go.

"Flashback" . . . .

This reminds me of my folks when I was a kid, never miss a chance to play it in every jukebox I find.