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While I like those, to me that is crazy money for one. I don't see it as being worth that much, not as a motorcycle. But I think they are looking to sell it as a museum piece more so then as a motorcycle. I don't buy museum pieces, I prefer motorcycles. I will say I remember being pretty impressed by the fit and finish of the RC30 when it was new. But for that money I would buy an MGS01. It is a much rarer bike, better looking, and cooler. https://seattleusedbikes.com/motorcycle/2004-moto-guzzi-mgs-01-corsa [docc copied/pasted Image Link]

So, the early tanks (chin pad/ external pump, 1999-2002) will only deliver about 5.1 US gallons to the petcock (fuel tap) on the left side of the tank at the rear. About 0.8 US gallon is trapped on the right where fuel returns from the injectors through the regulator. The fuel level sensor is on the left ahead of the fuel tap. The fuel delivery is more likely to run dry going downhill and banking right. Out of fuel and at a stop, the bike can be (strenuously) leaned hard to the left and trapped fuel "sloshed" into the left to get restarted and maybe a couple tenths of a mile down the road. The "tip-slosh-restart" can be performed more than once on an "empty" tank. Going easy on the throttle returns more fuel to the right side trap. I watch my odometer for the point at which I expect a faint, intermittent glow of the warning light. This will be first detectable idling at a stop; getting on the throttle tends to extinguish the light. By the time my light is on full bright, it's tip-slosh time.

Just a post to say hello, hope you all ok. Me and the guzzi are going well, there is so much info on this site there is nothing I can ever add. but thanks.

One reconditioned Fuel Tap. Many thanks to LuckyPhil for the research and to MartyNZ for the technical skills. The black heater hose is for added purchase. This is my original fuel tap which I replaced a few years ago. The replacement started leaking a few weeks ago. I mentioned it to Marty and he said right lets have a go at fixing it. He needs polygrips on his fuel tap so my spare is going to him to make a replacement for his bike

My right side oil leak was the top oil cooler hose. Tough to track down since the oil leaked into the wire mesh jacket on the hose, then got blown off of there.

I've been waiting to fill my rear drive until my Chevron Delo Gear ESI 85w140 came in. Today was the day. First thing I noticed is that considering the labelled viscosity, it seems pretty loose in the container. Far sloshier than a heavy conventional gear oil. <wary look> Visually it's darkish golden, not much different than other lubes. No particular smell. I added ~255-260cc to my dry, clean gearbox. While hard to see through the fill hole, it's quite obviously far above the 'level plug' on the back of the box, and someone has probably figured out before that the level hole *might* be correct if it was horizontal to the ground with the axle. Turning the wheel, the oil appears thinner than the Redline heavy shockproof I had in it, as well as the Lucas/moly additive just lastly. But it also carries up the gear well and leaves a heavier coat than I expected. All my research says this should be as good as it gets, and has alien magical properties unknown to lesser oils. I'd say 'we'll see' about how well it works, but truth is there hasn't been any shortcoming in previous oils to compare to. <shrug> I feel good about it, which is about all we ever get to say about gear oils.

About 20.7 liters(~5.5 us gal.) with 5 liters(~1.3 us gal.) reserve according to the manual.

I changed all the lamps in mine to LED type, they are much easier to see in bright sunlight. The LEDs should outlast the bike so I glued them in place and soldered the wires direct to the lamp, no lamp holder to give trouble. For the low fuel light I kept one of the incandescent lamps in parallel, this biases the thermistor in the low fuel sensor. As for the trapped fuel on the RH side, I took the pressure relief/return fitting out of the tank and modified it with an internal pipe bent at the top end. The returning fuel is now shot over the hump to the LH side, it still traps fuel on the Right but if you lean the bike right over to the left it has a better chance of staying where the pump can get at it. (I know longer own this bike so don't ask for a picture)

Trust US , you will get the hang of it after running out of/low on fuel a couple of times !

Ok so I've had to delete my last post on this because it was wrong. I have established without doubt that the later V11 sport triple clamps are indeed "canted" or more correctly have a built in negative rake. You can fairly easily check what your bike has by a measurement insitu. I have a new set of the later black triples and you can confirm by measuring the steering stem hole location in the bottom clamp. If you measure from the edge of the stem hole OD to the front and aft edges of the oval flat face the newer raked clamps measure 11mm and 16mm respectively where the older 0 rake forks measure 13mm and 14mm. So Guzzi have moved the stem forward 2mm in the new lower triple clamps effectively steepening the angle in the lower clamp and left the top clamp the same. So 40mm offset on the top clamp and 38mm for the lower. They have of course machined the fork leg bores at a fractional angle to allow for this so you cant mix and match new and old clamps. Here's an image of a later clamp base and you can see the stem hole is obviously off set on the machined flat face. The earlier lower clamps have the stem hole more centred by 2mm. The effect of this negative offset is to give the bike more trail. How much I don't know but it may also clear up some of the wheel base question marks as well between the bikes which I think have been discussed aside from the long/short frame variations.

Correct, there is a fuel sensor on to one side of the tank towards the seat area, the other side contains the fuel petcock (at least on my V11 Lemans ’02). Because of the way the fuel tank hangs on the frame there are essentially two compartments on either side of the frame. Moving the bike side to side will cause some of the fuel to move over to the other compartment.

When you say "get older" and "oddball things" in the same sentence, I get a creepy feeling and have to take a leak and swap my relays around . . .

My friends Mike and George went down to Quail a week ago to show off George's Ducati. Mike made a little video about it as he's apt to do. There were a ton of Guzzis down there so I thought I'd share it with y'all. There will be a part 2 to the video that will probably come out next Sunday.

https://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2001-Moto+Guzzi-V11+Sport-5021134216

https://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2001-Moto+Guzzi-V11+SPORT-5021305081

Damper rod docc. Ciao

The VFR750R is an icon in its own right; but it lacks the panache of certain bikes playing in that same category. I agree with the rest of you that a rare Guzzi would be much more pleasing to own.... and ride! The general consensus of people on this forum, is they want to ride their motorcycle, not simply look at them.

That’s what the downloaded operator manual says for me too. It also seems to tally with my amber light showings.

The work itself is not hard or complicated. But often a special tool is required to keep the cartridge from spinning while the bottom bolt is removed. I have only rebuilt BMW forks which don't require a tool.

Bumping. Hope to have at least a couple in hand (including my own missing sample) in a week or so.

Nero diavolo e il colore piu o meno...non so il numero proprio...forse si puo chiamare a la fabbrica o magari Agostini proprio. In boca al lupo!

P6X...it may be prudent to take a 1 or 2 liter fuel bottle with you when you do venture to Big Bend, just in case as a bit of extra reserve in case you find yourself in a pickle or the gas station in Marathon is out of gas! They also do make some relatively small Rotopax items that you could consider on this longer more remote section of the Grand Tour...would provide some comfort and extend the range a bit...you could even deliberately run out of gas just to see how far you really can go, knowing you have some reserve on the bike with you. I use these 4-5 gallon ones for fuel and water on my Rover adventures for back country exploration. https://rotopax.com/ They even have a section for "blemished items" at 50% off prices...well worth it! https://rotopax.com/1-gallon-gasoline-blemished.html

It is maybe a bit difficult to see, but the aluminium colored is 44mm and the black is 42,.. mm Very provisional measurement. The reference is the frontside of the triple clamp and the inside of the triple clamp tube. So the rake is smaller for the later models. It will give 8mm more trail(estimate).

Mike has 50w flowing through his veins. He loves those old bikes.

Tank suck, as it is sometimes called, is not uncommon. It usually happens because the tank has a one way valve that is supposed to only let air in to replace fuel being used and not let fumes out. But it is fairly common for the valve to be installed backwards, so it ends up letting air out but not in. Or the valve can be installed correctly, and when you open the gas cap it actually vents out (not in) creating a whoosh. Not telling you what to do, but we have removed the one way valve on ours, so it does not prevent air from entering or fumes from escaping. It just vents either direction as needed.

I really hope I will never have to verify it “hand’s on”. This is why I am recording all my rides and refuels. Knowledge before I venture inside Big Bend NP. Running out of fuel inside and needing to ask a bear to help me push.

Yeah, the sideways V2 really suits the spine frame design more than other engine configurations. Not only that, but it seems like the spine frame suits the sideways engine layout better than pretty much any other option. But it does not suit other engine layouts as well. So it isn't likely anyone else would develop the design. And Guzzi seems to have lost interest in it. But you never know. I do think there is much more potential there. If I live long enough to retire, one of my hopes is to build my own spine frame Guzzi. I think that would be fun.

Very interesting!! The first proof I have seen. I am going to the shed this evening to measure. I have a 1999(KR, redframe) and a 2002 (KS)

Say what ? ......nothing I can ever add......

All: Sorry to be incommunicado. Been busy and haven't tended to this -- I have meant to reach out to fabricator, but always seems to be somewhat after COB every time I get around to looking at my to do list. Last update was that he won't do vacuum finish, so no matte/satin. I am hoping to finish up my hell week and then have some time for fun next week. I'll plan to ride down to Gettysburg then and see if I can get some pics of samples for color options, etc. He never did give me a final price. Hopefully it doesn't look dramatically different from his estimate a couple months ago. Sorry for the delay.

Nice to hear from you, @Flooky! You can always add to "Where have you been . . .", "What did you do . . .", or "Post a pic . . ." Or, one of my all-time favorites:

Hey Kiwi Roy, I jumped batt + to the starter solenoid male spade terminal on my '03 V11 Lemans with a D'arsonval movement ammeter. On my first attempt the meter bounced to 7amps and then came down to 4a during cranking, my 2nd attempt the needle went to 4amps and remained during cranking until I disconnected power. So, I guess if some folks are getting substantially higher current draws in the starter primary circuit, they have a problem...shorted solenoid pull in or hold in coils, dirty contact in solenoid not allowing hold-in to energize. On the other hand, I wonder how many are encountering cranking problems as a result of excessive voltage drop in the starter circuit...poor switch/relay contacts, etc. Yeah, it sucks as these bikes get older and oddball things begin to manifest.

Thank you for your support!

This was at the Oregon Vintage Motorcyclist 43rd Annual Show. Not sure if it sold or not but if someone was interested it might be worth a call. Seemed like a decent bike. I took a look over and didn't see anything out of sorts.

Any way of acquiring a print of this some where? thx in advance

I had a Motion Pro using mercury that worked well but then it got to where you couldn't get mercury any longer. Purchased the blue fluid version and still could not get a good balance even with calibrating it, etc. Bought one of these and never looked back: http://www.carbtune.com/carbdtls.html

You know I do all my own work (usually) but I was quite happy to let the local WP service center give them a mechanical rebuild and facelift for only a couple hun; replacing bushings is something best accomplished with correct tools- which requires in my experience either time and money to acquire the 'official' tool (which lays unused for eternity after) or 3 trips to Home Depot for the correct (?) size PVC pipe to cut into a tool. What broke the camel's back and drove me to outsource it wasn't that WP is literally a half hour drive, but that I couldn't find online a way to be certain of what fork I have and educate myself on the process before I took them apart- or halfway apart. FWIW here's your nearest WP service center; WOOLY'S CYCLES OF ATLANTA Address 1581 Cobb Pkwy S 30060 Marietta, GA There are few things I hate more than taking something apart and being stuck for parts or tools while I forget where I was and how it fits back together. Like my Sport with no TBI linkage. Or my Mille GT waiting for spoke nipples from Sweden. Or my Aermacchi starter needing a register bored for the Suzuki upgrade. I have nothing that works properly today.

Well riding style and conditions have an effect of course but the cold start cycles are something I think people aren't necessarily aware of. The amount of fuel that gets thrown at the engine getting it up to temp esp in cold weather has a big impact on the range. I got caught out 20 years ago on my Aprilia RSV1000 when it ran dry about 20klm before usual and it was lucky to get 270klm out of a full tank of country riding so was marginal on fuel range as it was. I'd filled it up after the previous ride but then did 4 or 5 cold start cycles with little mileage and it caught me out on the next weekend ride. Always best to fill up at the start of the ride with a warm engine on the edge of the city for maximum range. The difference is very noticeable. Ciao