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After fixing my broken tag support, I decided to make up for the lost trip to South Padre Island by going to Gladewater Tx. Stops #9, 16, 17, 18 setting me 15/50 a return trip of 440.5 miles (709 km). As many places in the USA, Texas is under extreme heat, compounded by the elevated humidity in the State. Because of these conditions, we experience torrential, tropical storm likes; I went through one yesterday on the 259. The temperature during the ride was 104 degF (40 degC). When I got back at 7:00 pm 96 degF (35.5 degC). The sudden tropical storm I went through concerned me. I saw the lightning from afar, but did not hear any thunder; I assumed I was safe. The storm hit between Kilgore and Henderson while in the forest. Visibility null. I got behind a truck, and stayed there. I did not want to stop. I got completely soaked, but I was dry when I got home, excepted for the socks and the seat side of my riding jeans. The Michelin Road 5 did pretty well under those diluvian conditions. No hydroplaning and I maintained confidence. But I cannot ignore that riding in such conditions is unsafe, and should be avoided. There was no place for me to stop, and my tail light was probably invisible given the curtain of water falling. This is why I stayed close to the truck in front of me. His lights could be seen better. I kept at a safe distance although we were going about 45/50 mph. The rain did not subside until Nacogdoches. My hands were completely black from the gloves. Difficult to remove too.... Nevertheless, I really enjoyed the outing which basically served no other purpose but to ride the Guzzi. The V11 did pretty well in the heat, considering how much of it, and did not mind the water either. The only issue is the oil seepage which seemed to have resumed. I don't want to immobilize the Le Mans any longer. I will add oil as required. This is the temperature at my first stop in Kilgore Tx. The #8 stop in Kilgore Tx. Under the blistering heat! The former drilling derricks close to Kilgore downtown. Texas has plenty of them. Initially, the derrick would stay all through the life of the well, and would be used for the required workovers. Nowadays, if you own a well, you call a drilling or workover company for the intervention. Note that those structures were only good for shallow wells, as it was back the beginning of the black gold. The oil was a few hundreds feet under the surface. Today, the easy oil has been already found, and you need a better structure to drill and work deeper. The 16, 17, 18 stops in Gladewater Tx. Almost identical stop for stop to last year's. Not as much fun when repeating stops in places you have already been. At least, I did not need to look to find the locations... Here's the trip details, beginning on 10:38 and ending on 19:12. There were only two major stops to refuel. The reported mileage is not accurate since the App computes the distances arbitrarily, not according to the route used. But it is good enough for my own personal tracking. Fuel consumption was always above 40 mpg, which is basically what I expect to achieve on the road, never exceeding 5000 rpm. If I break that barrier, then it deeps pretty quickly. Here's the temperature taken upon arrival at 19:12 yesterday. Now I need to clean the bike and think about my next venture. I am running out of day ride stops though. The South Padre Island trip is postponed for the time being.

yep. I used silicone spray and many cuss words to do mine. I did not remove any manifold but did make and use different size hardwood 'pry bars' for leverage. I've ordered some of that P-80 for future. Silicone seems to evaporate but also seems to embed somewhat. Don't know long term effects but I've used it for years on many carb boots and similar applications. "seems" to make rubber fresh.

Here's you answer. Fuel injected, 270 degree crank with balance shaft, ABS, the cheapest spares in motorcycling, and dirt cheap to buy. Quality? outstanding. Phil

This forum is not the place for political s^^t . I would appreciate it if you would remove it .

I "think" this is the v you set to after the throttle plate is adjusted to FULLY closed.

To do a TPS adjustment, you need to loosen the 2 screws that fasten it to the throttle body and rotate it until you read your desired output - 157mV. It's pretty sensitive, we are talking micro adjustment here. Only loosen the screws enough to allow rotation while maintaining some tension. Your output might jump around when you tighten the screws back so you might need to rinse and repeat until locked in. And definetely read and follow docc procedure in Decent Tune-up: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19610-decent-tune-up/

I've decided I want to finally include this TPS review as the final step in my tune up/work done these past couple of months and plan to also use the Caspers connector cable that had been recommended here, but I am completely puzzled exactly how do you "adjust" the TPS. I don't see any screw or place to adjust the TPS per se looking at my bike. What screw exactly is it that is used to adjust the TPS (anyone have a photo?), and given how "sensitive" this TPS seems to be, this has to be a micro screw somewhere, not a large one on the throttle bodies I am guessing. Thanks again!

Those are good questions. Sounds like you feel your V11 is still running rich even after removing the TrickeryBox? What makes you think this is the case? The TPS does not lean, richen, or benefit from "playing with it." (I tried that in the early days before the fine folks here patiently helped me understand what the TPS actually does.) Have you performed the entire "Decent Tune-up" to establish a baseline?

Expensive and worth it from a Honda dealer on ebay..I won't be without it after using it.

On the older model, the computer cable with USB-A plug was attached permanently to the interface and you needed an adapter to connect to a tablet or a phone. Nowadays a lot of laptop have USB-C ports as well, so I guess they upgraded the interface with a USB-B port to plug in the proper USB cable directly, eliminating the need for any adapter. Note that Lonelec sells the different USB cables separetely for a couple of bucks each so you could essentially make your interface ready for all type of USB connections. I'm not sure that you can run GuzziDiag on an iPad, my understanding is that there only is an Android version for mobile devices. I could be wrong though... it's happened before... Edit: No Android version of GuzziDiag exists at this time. If you want to run it on a tablet it has to be a Windows tablet.

Thanks, @Speedfrog! I removed the link I posted. I see they have superseded the secondary cable with an adapter for cables to different devices. I have long wanted a dedicated "Tablet" or iPad to run guzzidiag when I am away from my home computer. Looks like this cabling is the way to go. I will replace the link in the Diagnostic Cables topic in "How to . . ."

Here is the direct link to the “Guzzi” cables. https://www.lonelec.com/product/guzzidiag-3pin-interface-cable-kit/ All you have to do is choose an option for the cable to plug to your computer/tablet/phone. The original cables came with USB-A plug attached for standard PC connection. I’d go for that, you can always use an adapter if you want to plug into a tablet/phone.

Thanks all…indeed I do have the Casper’s cable, no way I was going to try and splice in or poke around with pointy inserts to the other cables…and I’ve had the cable sitting on my bench for a while…many thanks for the clarifications…I now understand the physical adjustments needed to tackle this part of the tune up. Thanks again for the collective wisdom here…what I’m now looking forward to is seeing what the reading is at…given the bike runs very well, has no stumbles, gets 40 mpg easily, plugs were nicely colored but also have fresh ones in along with all of the other work done recently…so maybe I’m lucky and the TPS is close to the required 157 mv already….we’ll see!

http://www.casperselectronics.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=853&search=109172

Please do yourself a favor and get the TPS adjustment cable to make this procedure much easier . You will not regret it and you will get a perfect reading . I got some ends (they look just like the banana plug ends on Fluke leads) and soldered them to the cable ends . It looks professional and gives a perfect connection . There is still a Mom n Pop store ( Hughes Electronics) in Paducah that sell all the goodies and have the stuff in stock ! Also , you are talkng to counter people that know more than you do . A rare trait nowadays !

Thanks everybody!! Still working on the machine: experiencing “option overload” as too many chores, projects, and essential duties keep getting in the way. :)

Here's my opinion, feel free to disregard it. If you're getting 40mpg, your 'driving' mixture is quite-good-to-lean. If your plugs are black, it's rich at idle or isn't ridden long enough when warm to clean them. Mine had the dreaded '2800/3200 rpm stutter' and intermittent idle stall until I replaced the cam chain with a gearset- then these things, completely unexpectedly, disappeared. At the very least, be certain your cam chain is adjusted properly. The stock adjuster must be attended manually. For my time invested, I'd at minimum replace the stock tensioner with a Valtec, or adjust the stock one properly while awaiting a set of Caruso cam gears. Edit; got my bikes mixed up. The '97 has a spring-type tensioner, but it's woefully weak and I believe allows enough timing variation to confuse the ECU at idle and in the ~3k rpm range.

The mounting ears of the "black head" are slotted such that the TPS rotates relative to the fully closed (as @gstallons emphasized) throttle plate. Pay special attention, in Step#2, to remove all of the aspects that can hold the throttle plate open even the slightest. In fact, pressing the throttle plate tightly closed while setting the TPS, or "Zip-tying" it as @Lucky Phil has suggested, is absolutely worthwhile. Only loosen the two fasteners enough to tap one of the mounting ears with something like the butt of a small screwdriver handle. Watch how much the reading changes with these tiny taps. Tighten first one, then the other fastener while watching how much the reading changes. Keeping the fasteners as snug as possible helps minimize the tightening change, yet expect 0.030 volts or so. Always tighten the fasteners in the same order and amount and the reading change becomes very consistent. At this point, use the "tap" method to compensate for the "tightening change" and, as @Speedfrog said, "rinse and repeat until it's locked in."

So now that I'm confident in my Sport's front end, you'll have to give it a test ride.

My first road bike was a KZ400. It had a soul. It's just that soul was reminiscent of the slaves who built the pyramids. Honda Hawks seemed relevant at the time, but their soul was part of the Honda hive mind. EX500s (the 80's ones) had the most obnoxious exhaust tone ever to come from a spark plug. Perhaps the newer stuff isn't so bad. I'm not persecuting them really, they just leave a bad taste in my ears.

Don't discount the possibility that it's run rich so long that your intake valves are so fouled they interfere with airflow and thus richen the mixture, particularly at low RPM. Run a pint of Marvel Mystery Oil through with a tank of gas and see if it doesn't help. In any case, it won't hurt- it will clean any deposits from the intake and combustion chamber. It's very wise to familiarize yourself with the tuning software, but you can probably find someone locally who either knows it, or is familiar enough with other tuners to help out sufficiently.

Ok good thank youVery much!! appreciate a LOT your help. let me download it and I see I also need to get two cables . Report back as soon as I get everything thanks

You need Guzzidiag. Strap yourself in for some learnings and use a translator where necessary( these people invented it). No garbage about "I'm a luddite" and don't know computers. Neither did I and I'm conversant with it now. If you can't figure out Guzzidiag you may as well sell the bike, seriously. Without it it's maintenance with both hands tied behind your back. http://www.guzzi-forum.de/Forum/index.php?topic=16809.0" http://www.guzzi-forum.de/Forum/index.php?board=76.0 https://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/ https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=96957.0 Phil

Whats your CO set at? Phil

Thanks Docc! So you’re saying that just by loosening and then tightening those two screws that seat the TPS that is in effect what is used to “adjust” the TPS to 157 mv by “ rotating the black head”? I guess that’s what has been confusing me when reading and subsequently skipping that step #2 always.

Thanks to @PJPR01 for asking. This image has been added to the "Decent Tune-up", Step#2, to help identify the two fasteners that secure, and adjust, the TPS:

Oh, no, the TPS adjustment sucks much more than a simple screw. There must be nine steps to get it right. But worth it. See Step#2 of the Decent Tune-up for insights. (FWIW, the TPS is Step#2, not the "Final Step." I should add an image of the TPS fasteners (thanks for asking) . . . [edit:done]

Don't know the V11, so it may be different on the Sporti and HiCam turning them clockwise closes them resulting in less air, so it would richen the mixture. AFAIK they are marginal things anyway and won't have much effect on the mixture EXCEPT at idle where the engine isn't breathing much. I've always understood that they are just used to balance up the TBs at tickover in case it's off a bit after you balance the butterflies at higher RPMs. Sure somebody who knows the V11 and is more knowledgable than me will chip in to give you a definitive answer

Keep a couple of hours free. And then expect to experience about half. The closed archive stuff was supervised by historian Douglas Brinkley. It's a serious endeavor. Also going on now is a three day seminar regarding Bob but I didn't get the full subject. I learned about it from a couple participants that were talking to us on the sidewalk after we left the exhibit. I don't see anything about it on the website. This is in a pretty neat part of Tulsa. There's a great music venue (Tulsa Theater) close by, that's where I've seen Tedeschi Trucks, Bill Maher, Jeff Beck, Leon, etc. Cool bars, restaurants and hotels, the Ball Park, the large arena (BOK Center) where I saw Roger Waters. Tulsa is a major architecture center too, lots of Art Deco era buildings and midcentury.

So your saying that the caspers connector is more accurate then just using pins or wires. I think i will buy them. thanks.

Now, must devise a fine-threaded rotating thumbwheel for the TPS so that you don't go from .100-50.75 in one little jiggle.