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Tire shops, like most service businesses in the U.S., are hamstrung by insurance regulation and litigious customers; if they don't follow manufacturer's protocol they open themselves to lawsuits. Wal-Mart will not install single tires. No brake shop will pad your old rotors without at least turning them. No alignment shop will touch your car without nearly new tires. The list is infinite. Tire manufacturers 'recommend' installing new tire pairs, for instance, only on the rear of front-drive cars. WTF? Simple- front tires wear faster, so they get that second pair more quickly. Air conditioning compressor manufacturers require replacement, not cleaning, of other components or your warranty is void. The service environment is engineered to maximize the fleecing, whether it be your fleece by the service agent, or their fleece by the lawyers and regulators. These are what economists call 'unwanted ingredients', and you pay for them everywhere.

If there is a drill mark in the paint on the side of the head facing into the valley adjacent to the manufacturing date stamp it's a 'B' kit bike. If there is no drill mark it's a 'C' kit bike 2010 was the year that changed so it's worth checking. I suggest you have a look at my 'Definitive guide' thread on the Ghetto. https://www.grisoghetto.com/t5879-the-definitive-guide-to-rollerisation Yes the map needs updating but even the last factory map is a piece of shit. Buy the cables and download Guzzidiag and the 'Reader' and 'Writer' program and get a map off Mark at Griso.org. Orders of magnitude better than the factory option. Make sure the bike is tuned properly too. You do understand how to tune a W5AM Guzzi? If it hasn't yet been done it will be necessary to grease and probably replace the swingarm bearings and shock linkage bearings. If it has ever been out in the rain for any length of time replacement will probably be required. Also check the integrity and attachment of the two drain hoses on the airbox and make sure they are capped/plugged. Nothing kills throttlebodies quicker than even small amounts of dust ingress. Don't be tempted by a K & N type air filter either as they too will cause you to need new throttlebodies at a cool $1,500US or so.

Yes and yes. It's a twin plate dry clutch with a gazzillion splines on the clutch hub and flywheel. What are the odds that it's going to be silent in the conditions you mention? Don't worry I'll tell you, ZERO. The older it gets the more the splines wear and the more rattly they become. Phil

just 6 seconds!

877847 is the part number for the shims. By 'Valve caps' I take it you mean the valve guide oil seals? If so that is correct. You also missed head gaskets. These come in three thicknesses so unless you want to buy all three thicknesses, (They're expensive!) it's best to pull one head and check which ones you need. Most bikes use the *Middle* 0.85mm gaskets. Dont be afraid of using a computer Rolf. Twenty years ago I was like you but really there is nothing much to it. The Guzzidiag suite of tools is simple and intuitive. If I can use it anyone can and you need to be able to use it to tune the bike as the TPS is an interpretive value rather than an absolute one on W5AM Guzzis. Oh, and roller kits are in very short supply at the moment. Not absolutely sure why.

The unit failed upon test ride today. I've ordered a discounted replacement for about $81 + shipping. I guess it's wait and see. Provided here FYI.

Wow, not something you see every day. Checking the health of my bank account now. Magni modified Le Mans on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-Moto-Guzzi-Lemans-1000-Custom-restomod-with-Magni-suspension-/275377941684?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0 Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

I've got a 'B' kit but I think I'm short one shim to make it into a 'C' kit. They are in very short supply at the moment. I waited six months for them, (B kits.) to appear at TLM and I grabbed both of them clearing them out again. Dunno what the situation is with SD but I'd guess no better.

Thanks guys. I finally had some time to dig into this issue and I started taking parts off and now I'm quit convinced it indeed has to do with the clutch. I never roll the bike with any of the gears engaged and the clutchlever pulled in simply because it's heavier and less easy to do. This time it just happened to be so and I heard the noice for the first time. The driveshaft looks fine. No play in any direction. It's also not making any noise. Took the side panel of the transmission off and everything looks and feels as it should. Also no play on any bearings. At this point I could cleary hear the sound coming from the rear side of the engine but as the crankshaft is not turning it has to be the clutch! Reading some of your comments about the noisy clutch I'm starting to think I am being worried about a problem that does not exist. So now i'm thinking that I just assemble my bike again, put in new transmission oil, do something about rainwater getting into the gearbox ventilation and go riding. On a side note: I must have moved my bike this way before in the past but I don't recall hearing any of this noise. It's allways the brakepads that make most of the noise. Could it be that the clutch is wearing out and that that's the reason it's making more of that metallic sound?

Absolutely agree. I’ve never found a tyre shop willing to repair a run flat puncture. Even with a non deflated tyre that hasn’t been driven. I’ve even offered to take the wheel off the car, and take it to the tyre shop as a loose wheel to repair. No tyre shop will cooperate

Gotta love that instant she looks down and declares, "OH! La benzina !! " (How many of us have been there?!? ) I just never pulled off a quick "mille lire " for a tank of gas without washing dishes for an hour or mucking out a horse stall . . .

G'day mate The Welsh are renowned for their ... Singing in the Valleys. Kinda hard to imagine they don't lubricate their tonsils with an ale or 3 before during and more than likely afterwards.... Cheers Guzzler

I'd be more amazed if there wasn't a "slight rattling noise" I suggest you fit and oil pressure and oil temperature gauge to the bike before you do anything else. Phil

Gentlemen, thanks very much for your advice, I’ll try the mushroom plug, I’ve already ordered a new tyre but this 180/55 x 17 will fit my black framed V11’s so if I can salvage it and get some use from it, it makes a lot more sense than scrapping a virtually new tyre its been a bad month for tyres, 2 weeks ago whilst I was away my son was using my 330 Beemer, picked up a nail in a front tyre which deflated, but because it’s a run flat, it couldn’t be repaired, so a scrap tyre that was barely 5 months old, and being a front I can usually get +40,000 miles on RWD Beemers. I’d rather have a spare wheel & loose some truck space than the modern trend of run flats & tyre sealing foam… Rant over, thanks for your advice