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Meaning, do it yourself. Plugged my sons BMW 530 diesel last summer, all good. Run flat tires it was. Cheers Tom.

Tire shops, like most service businesses in the U.S., are hamstrung by insurance regulation and litigious customers; if they don't follow manufacturer's protocol they open themselves to lawsuits. Wal-Mart will not install single tires. No brake shop will pad your old rotors without at least turning them. No alignment shop will touch your car without nearly new tires. The list is infinite. Tire manufacturers 'recommend' installing new tire pairs, for instance, only on the rear of front-drive cars. WTF? Simple- front tires wear faster, so they get that second pair more quickly. Air conditioning compressor manufacturers require replacement, not cleaning, of other components or your warranty is void. The service environment is engineered to maximize the fleecing, whether it be your fleece by the service agent, or their fleece by the lawyers and regulators. These are what economists call 'unwanted ingredients', and you pay for them everywhere.

Late to this, so to clarify... The rattle when pushing is only when the bike is in gear, and clutch lever pulled in. Is it safe to assume that the noise is absent when pushing the bike in neutral (whether clutch is activated or not)? Have you tested different gears? Does the noise speed up or slow down as you change gears? Do you have a way to lift the rear wheel? If so, you can bind the clutch lever in (zip-tie or bungee), then rotate the wheel while changing gears and listen for noises. With the wheel up, it will also be easier to look for play in the driveshaft.

After removing the cotter pin, it is necessary to remove the lower part by force. Nothing holds it in, only sealing o-rings. There is a filter, I recommend cleaning it.

Yeah Weegie. Now that I have reassembled the bike and was able to reproduce that sound again, I changed my opinion about what's causing the rattle and I don't think it's the clutch. The sound is not that "Metal plate jingling" kind of sound. It's more like gears just touching each outher when turned. My answers to Scud's questions: The rattle when pushing is only when the bike is in gear, and clutch lever pulled in. Answer>> Yes, that's correct. Is it safe to assume that the noise is absent when pushing the bike in neutral (whether clutch is activated or not)? Answer>> Yes. No sound whatsoever. Have you tested different gears? Does the noise speed up or slow down as you change gears? Answer>> Interesting. The sound is different per gear. In first gear the rattle is the loudest and has the highest frequenty (RPM). Going up the gears seems to make the rattle a bit quieter per gear. Do you have a way to lift the rear wheel? If so, you can bind the clutch lever in (zip-tie or bungee), then rotate the wheel while changing gears and listen for noises. Answer>> Besides making a few steps back and forth with the bike everytime I also lifted the rear wheel for testing. With the wheel up, it will also be easier to look for play in the driveshaft. Answer>> The drive shaft is fine. No play in any direction (I love lubing that thing ) and the bearing through which the splined shaft exits the gear box has no play at all. There's also no play on the splined shaft itself in any direction. Note: When I turn the drive shaft (the rear wheel) and change direction there is always a few degrees of play at first but I think that's normal as the gears change direction and change sides on the gear tooth. It looks like I will be draining and opening up the gearsbox soon again.

Check to see that both ends of your driveshaft are tight on the splines. I had a similarly disconcerting noise when pushing and found that my rear yoke was less than 'very' tight. I have to add that I only discovered it upon disassembly, and I replaced the outer housing bearing; the 'rattle' was gone upon reassembly. So I attributed it to the drive spline coupling. Grab your rear housing to see how much play is in that outside bearing, also.

Sorry but I'm still/again having some doubts about whether I can ride my bike without making things worse so I made a 10 second video. The reflection on the painted wall shows what I'm doing and you may have to turn up the volume when you play it. Transmission rattle video with sound

A few yrs ago, I had a chance to pick up a Lemans ll former race bike, set up with the Magni swing arm, very cheap, 2K?. The racers seem to be more likely to go to that bother of trying to get the best performance at speed. I have my suspicions this bike might be a former track bike, especially with the open carb set up, most street riders will at least put K&Ns on the carbs. fwiw

877847 is the part number for the shims. By 'Valve caps' I take it you mean the valve guide oil seals? If so that is correct. You also missed head gaskets. These come in three thicknesses so unless you want to buy all three thicknesses, (They're expensive!) it's best to pull one head and check which ones you need. Most bikes use the *Middle* 0.85mm gaskets. Dont be afraid of using a computer Rolf. Twenty years ago I was like you but really there is nothing much to it. The Guzzidiag suite of tools is simple and intuitive. If I can use it anyone can and you need to be able to use it to tune the bike as the TPS is an interpretive value rather than an absolute one on W5AM Guzzis. Oh, and roller kits are in very short supply at the moment. Not absolutely sure why.

That was one expensive ride Plug it, never had a problem with plugs, newer used mushroom types. Even on fast bikes. Cheers Tom.

It does say alloy gears Cheers Tom.