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Mallory Park, Festival of 1000 bikes event this weekend organised by the Vintage & Classic motorcycle club, here is the Moto Guzzi Club GB “tent” being set up, we have several Guzzi’s on display including my Rosso Corsa Really hot day, temperatures reaching 85 F, lots of track day action on the circuit, fabulous opportunity to meet many other Guzzistas and see a wide variety of bikes classic & modern

When the weather picks up ride it down here and bring your computer and cables. We'll sort it out.

will do.

Thanks A Y ’runs good stationary’ is a start - but looking forward to that ride report! Three months later hopefully you’ve managed to get in enough saddle time to add in some further impressions on the impact your gears make. Thanks VeeEleven - your note ‘She just runs better’ concurs with Pressureangle’s impressions. But - do you recall if your valves were incorrectly gapped in any way before your gear installation?? Pressureangle relayed previously his were tight & required adjustment - so this also needs to be accounted for ie., hard starting etc., as opposed to all subsequent benefits being simply apportioned to the gears. Pressureangle’s experience with his drivetrain lash amelioration is highly intriguing - and maybe warrants further observations or analysis by other gear recipients enquiring minds! I’m hoping everyone who bought JC’s gears installs & are able to follow up with their impressions - adds a collective depth of experience to this thread before it merely runs cold without definitive dispassionate conclusions. (Any comparative commentary ie., Valtech, additionally provides clarity to this threads historical value in the future).

I like mine capped, but probably no discernible difference if there is a tube between them. I can see no good reason to connect them unless you find that convenient. I did learn that simple rubber vacuum caps dry out, loosen, and crack over time. Switching to tight fitting silicone caps seems proper.

Let's revive it, instead!

I replaced my intake rubber boots today. Along the way, I bothered to do some discovery on best method, at least on my '97 Sport-i. The winner is Lucky Phil- taking the intake manifolds off is enormously easier than working the boots otherwise. I'm not even certain I could have installed the new boots at all without removing the manifolds; the bar that ties my TBs together is very close to the frame bracket for the transmission brace and wouldn't move back much at all. As it was, I removed the clamps, pushed the rubbers away from the manifolds, removed the 3 mani bolts, slid the rubber back onto the manifold and off of the TB. The mani and rubber pop right out with only a little fiddling and no force. Reverse the process to install. It's easier to install the mani bolts in their holes and place the rubber before working the whole thing into place; take care with the threads as you have to keep the rubber from pushing them around. Installing the screws last is difficult because you can't slide the rubbers back away very far. A ball allen is nearly demanded. I had different gaskets on L & R sides. No info. Both sides stuck to the manifold and came off the heads clean. I cleaned the surfaces and put a very light coat of Permatex #2 to be sure they seal. Reinstalled my throttle rod, synched the TBs, set the TPS and tomorrow a test ride. Idles dead steady at 1100 now. Again. Those throttle rod knobs are still in the works, but they are a secondary priority behind real work.