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The first thing you lose sight of as an expert in any discipline is that everyone begins without knowing even the most basic tasks. So with that in mind, don't be afraid to ask basic questions. Yes, changing the oil is as simple as draining the oil from the plug at the rear, and changing the oil filter. I only change my filter every 2nd or 3rd oil change.

I would also advise dropping the sump first time. Once you have decided on a new filter, take it to an auto parts store and select a stamped metal type filter wrench that matches the flutes on the filter. They are cheap and operate with your ratchet handle. This will come in very handy when you decide to go through the manhole to change the next filter. Also that manhole cover uses a special tool you can get here or make one with a bolt/nut like I did before I bought the tool. https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=80&products_id=2695 The manhole cover has very fine threads and can be easily buggered so be patient replacing it.

About the only unusual thing in doing an oil change on a V11 Sport is the oil filter access. The oil filter is actually in the oil sump of the motor, and they added a "manhole" access port in the bottom of the sump to get to the filter AFTER you drain the oil out of the sump. Or some people prefer to change the oil filter by removing the sump. That allows increased access to the oil filter. One key aspect of an oil filter change is to make sure when you remove the oil filter the oil filter gasket comes with the oil filter. If it stick to the engine and you install another oil filter without noticing that the filter gasket was stuck in place it will cause oil issues with the sealing surface of the oil filter leaking oil pressure. A sure sign this has happened is a low oil pressure light that won't go out as it should. If the stock steering damper is working properly it is fine. Ours failed. That is not uncommon. We removed it when it failed and never replaced it. The V11 doesn't really need a steering damper. But if yours fails and you prefer the heavier, slower, steering that comes from having a steering damper by all means replace it with a quality unit. My wife found she preferred the lighter steering and increased feedback she got without the steering damper. But I can see where some people would not prefer that.

Check the fileshare section of this site for links to manuals and such. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/forum/11-fileshare/ As for the oil change, given that this will be your first oil change on a new-to-you bike, I'd suggest that you drop the sump (oil pan). To do so, you will need to first drain the oil and disconnect the oil-lines that attach to it. There are about 12 small bolts, and the whole pan will drop. Then you will have super-easy access to change the oil filter, which is a "car-type" I've been using one by WIX (cuz I copied Docc), but several other brands are also compatible. Many of us avoid the recommended UFI filter, due to problems with the O-ring. The main reason I recommend dropping the oil pan the first time is that some people secure the oil filter with an additional hose-clamp, which can only be removed by dropping the pan. This will also give you a chance to clean out the screen around the oil pick-up tube, and have a look up into the engine, which is just fun to do. After the first oil-change, you can decide whether to repeat that process or use the "man-hole-cover" in the bottom of the sump. As for the Bitubo damper - take it off and extend/compress it a few times in your hands. If it has a noticeable sticking point, it has started to work against you instead of for you. There's also a thread called "Decent Tune-Up" or something like that. A decent tune-up would be a great way to learn about the bike and improve the riding experience. There's another thread on shift improvement, but if you are new to motorcycle maintenance, you might not feel ready to take a pre-selector off the transmission. But when you are, people on this site will work through it with you. And for other maintenance - I would change all three oils (engine, transmission, and final drive). And flush all three hydraulic fluids (clutch, front brake, rear brake). The clutch is kind of a bugger, but you can get an extension hose that makes it easier for this and future fluid changes. And if you don't know the bike's history, it might be time for new oil in the forks.

Yes, all works perfectly fine. The blink rate is adjustable to personal preference or legal requirements. EDIT: I see that the picture of the latest bulb shows no projector lens - no idea if that affects the brightness.

Yes Phil

Definitely not a frame mount front fairing. Photo #8 in the CT listing clearly shows the fork mounted headlight brackets..

Greenie came with led signals. When going thru the bike, lot's of extra wiring and resistors. All that gone and working fine with the cheap orange flasher, bet mine is the same as po18guy. Using the same flasher on Rosso Corsa with led bulbs. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-A525F via Tapatalk

Queen sure could rock !

Thanks @pressureangle, I'm kinda new to motorcycle maintenance. I have been reading that massive thread and while I've found a lot of interesting things, like people really seem to dislike the stock steering dampener. I didn't find anything by searching 'oil change' or 'how to change the oil'. So, I search youtube I already described what I found. I guess 'how to change the oil' is like 'how to scramble an egg', you never see it in the cook books. Funny thing, my brother-in-law had to teach my niece how to scramble an egg when she got an apartment. I'll keep searching.

3:26 ...... "get on yuh bikes n ride" !

Docc, I didn't really see in the that he was running intake pods with the side covers . I also agree the general shape of the bike looks worthy to buy, just named wrong.

Here's where to start; follow the links to 'Frequently asked questions' and 'how-to'.

In all fairness, this looks like a nice LongFrame Sport, really pretty clean and original. Yeah, the tail fairing has probably been repainted, but the red and the stripes and "stickers" are pretty tasteful. No, I don't like header wrap, but that is removable and the stainless headers would likely polish up. The VIN does say 2003, but let's accept it as a 2002 "carry-over" (chin-pad tank with external pump/filter and white face Veglia instruments with the challenging "angle drives" and fuzzy-bubbly wrinkle black driveline paint). "Pretty", but less-than-ideal-for-tuning intake filters/"pods" in place of the factory airbox makes one wonder how the "side covers" have been remounted. (Someone saw to it that they are!) All of the Eagle plaques are intact along with the original exhaust, turn signals, full rear fender/lights, and factory shift/brake levers and footpegs. Really the only flaw to the offering is calling it a "Coppa Italia."

That there is the Coppa Di Merda Limited edition.. An "Enhanced" survivor.. Stripe added for" ultra speed"..Limited edition parts from E. Baye and special Amazonian racer parts from Jaque Bezos. Exquisite. Timeless.. Wait.. Down $1200????? They wanted $7200 at one time for that?!!

Alrighty, now.. they are winging your way as we type. I've sent a PM or email to all. Please excuse the stilted language, I just copied and pasted the message and changed the amount as necessary. Thanks to all that have participated in this last run of shifter extenders. I know, I've said that before, but these are the best of the lot, IMHO. Rare and highly collectible, of course. Back to work on the airplane project..

it's this one. '02 Sport with a painted seat cowl. Didn't realize they came with black forks.

I've lost track of how many times I've seen that for sale. Not rare, and certainly not a Coppa Italia

Coastal trip. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-A525F via Tapatalk

G'day I have a Hyperpro damper on my 01 V11 Sport but can't comment on it fitting a LeMans though mate. All I can say is that it is way better than the crap Bitubo std unit eh. Anyone else got one on a LeMans...? Cheers Guzzler