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@swooshdave posted a video on YouTube on how to change oil and filter on a V11 Sport. That's a start. And yes, buy a new gasket and pull down the sump. Mine was nasty:

Was owned by Ben... Ben Messtwith.

I would have thought by now someone would have posted a pic of an actual Coppa Italia I am a fan of the Coppa Italia, and regret that while I came close to getting one I wasn't able to. It was one of my favorite parts bin special versions of the V11. The bike for sale does look to have the correct pork chops in the metallic red anodized color, and is that a frame mount front fairing? Not sure. Doesn't look like it. But the lack of Ohlins (or Nohlins as po18guy said so well), along with the lack of the fancy paint job, mean that ain't what they say it is. At $6,000 that is too much money for a V11 in that shape. That is 5 lbs of shit for the price of 10.

Mine is split open at the top. I cleaned everything up and used liquid electrical tape to seal it. This will be a regular maintenance check at least with any tire or brake service.

FWIW. I removed the evap can T-hoses and capped the manifold ports with high temp vacuum caps bought from McMaster-Carr. The problem with the caps is that every so often a cap would blow off during cold start cranking. To prevent the cap from blowing off I cinched the outside diameter of the cap with small gauge ss lock wire. Then over time I noticed the high temp caps discoloring from heat, I eventually removed the caps, manifold nipples and replaced nipples with screws & fiber sealing washers....it's been fine since.

Just try riding it for as long as it usually takes to start playing up with the filler cracked open. Not with a full tank obviously! If it doesn't start cutting out? Then that's the problem. I'll bet it is though.

Vent hole in the gas cap is blocked.

Coppas have Öhlins. This one has Nöhlins. Wrong forks, shock, fairing, paint, handlebars. Other than that, it's fine. More questions than answers.

Mallory Park, Festival of 1000 bikes event this weekend organised by the Vintage & Classic motorcycle club, here is the Moto Guzzi Club GB “tent” being set up, we have several Guzzi’s on display including my Rosso Corsa Really hot day, temperatures reaching 85 F, lots of track day action on the circuit, fabulous opportunity to meet many other Guzzistas and see a wide variety of bikes classic & modern

I learned to love the sound of gear drive cams in the late 60s. Drag racing cars, then Nascar at a short track I worked at. At about the 2:05 point and later, the siren song can be heard. Bike must be fast as it appears to have melted the fairing around the rider.

Having experienced this on mySport, it is item #7 on the Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist:

Still no luck finding that rubber protection for the rear master cyl . Seems it didn’t do much for Pressureangle though. Cheers Tom.

Take my advice- since I'm probably only the latest in a long history of sufferers- use Craig DeOxit on all your relay terminals and use silicone (dielectric) grease when you assemble them. I chased gremlins for a long time, rejecting advice here from multiple sources, which turned out to be dirty relay contacts. Despite changing relays multiple times with the last time to the hard-to-find Omrons, nothing fixed it all until I cleaned and sealed the contacts properly.

I bought 5 relays on ebay after wading thru the forum relay threads for a while. Cheap ones from China should arrive in a couple weeks. Others listed were $20 ea. https://www.ebay.com/itm/115003630292 got 5 for ~$26 with shipping. Also ordered the manhole cover tool and will change the oil and do some other maintenance after it arrives.

I definitely don't have KiwiRoy's knowledge of electrickery; but should plugs be that sensitive to gap and only fire if it's really narrow ? Sounds to me like you have something weak or an issue further up the line. With all those new parts and much talk recently, of the crappy quality of new condensers, could that be an issue? What about the grounds and the ignition switch? When I replaced just about everything electrical on my CX100, Roy pointed out to me, that my 35 yr old ignition switch would cause me grief; in the end he was right, it would only run/run decently once I replaced the ignition switch as well. fwiw ymmv

The only time I've seen a cap blow off (or once, tore the cap's tip open) was from throttle body imbalance . . .

Pretty sure your US spec V11 didn't come with catalytic converters, this would be a non issue.

oh... i hope the bmw didnt beat the guzzi in that race?

Those would look (and sound!) sweeeet on a Rosso Mandello!

This could be a sticking Neutral Switch (located on the left of the gearbox beneath the starter. Often a gearoil change solves this, most often reported with a switch to RedLine ShockProof (I prefer the "LightWeight"/blue). Otherwise, the single female spade connector to the switch, under its rubber boot, is susceptible to connections issues. Clean, crimp, and seal the area with Vaseline® or equivalent. The middle relay could also be suspect (as could be all of the relays, but that is another matter, perhaps). Scud suggested this maintenance procedure.( I concur! ) :

Yes Phil

The learning curve is steep. Clutch: As to the clutch, I recently had trouble with air in the line. Removed the rear wheel so that my fumble fingers could get in there. Most do not have to, but it is a bit of a wrestle to reach the bleeder screw. I thought, the line goes upward - all the air is at the master on the handlebar. So, I installed a bleeder banjo bolt at the clutch master and all is happy motoring since. Oil: Inside the oil sump is a screen. Since you might be in there, good time to check it and clean it, since the bike has only been ridden 1,100-1.200 miles per year or so. Since the oil filter mounts top up, I fill the filter with oil when installing a new one. Just that much less time for pressure to build once you start it. I use HifloFiltro HF551 filters, which are generally pretty well regarded. Use a good oil for flat tappets (like Harley oil, diesel engine oil or similar) with enough zinc to protect your cam. Shifting: A couple of "post-Guzzi engineer" members here have brainstormed a few things for shifting. First - in your case - would be the bolt-on "Lucky Phil Extender" which shortens the throw of the shift lever. That is half your problem. And, as I have been well advised, it is also a big help to preload the shifter with your toe just before clutching. That helps all that mechanism into motion when the time comes. The other is a shift mechanism spring, which most of us will need at one point - but it requires quite a bit more digging into the trans. For a tune up, you might try some iridium plugs, as I found quicker starts/less cranking. The rest is in the "Decent Tuneup" thread. Gives you something to do with all of your spare time

I don't communicate well. This so called Coppa is a standard v11 sport with some painted bits, and the pic I posted is a standard v11 sport that became the Coppa wannabe, IE same bike. To be fair the listing details do refer to the bike as a V11 Sport. I don't think the day has arrived yet that these command prices like that but I won't gripe at anyone that tries.

I've lost track of how many times I've seen that for sale. Not rare, and certainly not a Coppa Italia

Hi folks! The rumors of my death have been greatly exaggerated, just like ol' Mark Twain said. All is good. I have been away from this splendid forum way too long. Hiatus is over, I hope. Not too many trips with Mizz Greenie so far. She runs like a dream, except for the occasional coughing at +/- 3500rpm. Last time I tried to hook up GuzziDiag it failed. I will try again. Would love to load Meinolf's map onto my 15M ECU I hope you all are well and having a good time. (The photo is from the lake Nord-Mesna last Saturday. Captured from my iPhone on a rock using Apple Watch as a self-timer. Yeah, I know.. fancy pants)

The Guzzi Club GB’s tent is a serous bit of kit…

define vice Chuck

My tonti is too new, but I do have a nice loop to post.... 72 Eldo 153K miles, runs great

Yeah, ink is cheap. Yet, these "may be" the real-deal High Current OMRON. No way to know without prying the case off for a look inside, which likely destroys the part. Respectable, available, alternative High Current relay made by CIT: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cit-relay-and-switch/a11csq12vdc1-5r/12502892

I highly doubt the relays on that listing are the real thing, made in US Omrons that is. Omron label is obscured in picture and no mention of it in description either. In fact it states "unbranded" in "Item specifics"..

First ride after major maintenance. Brake light failed. Bulb not grounding. Fixed, then brake light stayed on constantly. Spacer behind handlebar switch missing. (there is a spacer there, right?) Found this too, drat it all.