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No joy on the VHT. But in a barely relevant data gathering endeavor I tried 4 different paints that were labeled as “aluminum” in color/finish (well, 3 actually, plus the polished+clear option), and there wasn’t a significant amount of difference in the 3. The Seymour did turn out looking pretty darn good. I may get back to O’Reilly’s and seeing if that order for the VHT is still in the works, but for now am happy with the cosmetic outcome with the Seymour paint. This project is moving very slowly, which is largely by design, in part to help me keep some sanity, as i set lower personnel expectations for the project, as inevitably work and other more pressing home projects get in the way. Uh-oh, i hope I’m not growing up….. the missus has realized that there is always more work to be done on the bikes, so the excuse of “i need to work on the bikes” has played itself out i think. anyway, next is the Veglia speedo, shipping off to the fellow back east. Then finish the “decent tune”. And then i have a set of Rizoma LED turn signals coming, and will decide whether to use those on Greenie, or Red, or both if I like the outcome. Then the small amount of red paint work that needs addressing at that left side frame/motor-mount area, where moisture caused some nasty rust. Then sort out the air temp sensor, which currently goes into that water bottle the PO had under the tank (probably route that line like others have suggested). Etc…. It’ll certainly spill well into the winter.

Buy a set for a 2000 V11 Sport. I'm not aware of any issues with muffler cross fitting between the catted and non catted bike which if is the case then Agostinis is wrong. Reliable info is hard to come by these days as all the older knowledgeable people in retail environments are being replaced by young "customer service" kids that don't actually know anything beyond year model stuff on a computer screen. My bike has Agostini mufflers, Stucchi cross over and V11 header pipes fitted to a Daytona engine in a V11 Sport chassis. All fitted perfectly without any modifications. Can you imagine asking a modern parts person whether this combo would work? They'd spit their coffee across the room and have a coughing fit. Phil

Lousy, low rez pic, but the Seymour paint yielded a good look, for now. Will see how it holds up compared to the powder coat I did on Red.

Sorry ....I don't have much of a ride report yet. Only about 75 miles right after completion to meet Docc for lunch. since then its been like 100 degrees down here for way to long. -Noise/gear whine...I can't hear that much on the road. full face helmet and ear plugs. -standing beside the bike idling... um ...I know what I'm listening for and can barely hear the gears against the rattling clutch and the Ti-cans. - the hic-cup... seems better but I can still detect a little something ...not as bad as a hic-cup ... I've always thought my bike ran rather well and would hold its own against most any other stock Guzzi. that's all for now Andy

You will need to see if Chuck has any from the latest production run. He's the manufacturing expert, I'm just the, Ahem, "creative" Phil

Got a little package in the mail today... Beauties!! A million thanks to @Chuck and his S&H crew for all their hard work and @Lucky Phil for all his ingenuity..

That’s probably the best next step. Not bad enough yet to make me want to put her “out of service” in the middle of our short-ish riding season here, but that will be on the hot list for when the rains come.

Rather than start another thread on this, I’ll bump this one and add to it: (I’ve alluded to this mildly annoying issue in other threads..) Red LeMans has always run pretty sweet. As I’ve noted elsewhere, this season for the first time I’ve got an issue with idle and low rpm that’s characterized by: 1) might be hard to get it to keep running at idle, after it initially fires off during start. Idles, then stumbles and quits. 2) idle speed seems to vary more than it ever used to, on its own. Due to that rough cold idle, I’ve messed with air screws and TB sync a bit more (after full descent tune up) to try some different fine tuning, with no real change. But when I’ll turn up the idle a bit to around 1250, when its warmed up, then next ride it will idle back at 1000, then a week later will idle at 1300. Some variation was normal, but she never did this much. 3) seems to run great on the road, but in neutral in the shop at 4,000rpm, checking the TB sync, it will stumble a bit, and i can feel the throttle tension release momentarily when that happens (I’m thinking thats a solid clue). And before this riding season, she used to actually remarkably well even between 2500-4000 rpm, where some MG’s of this vintage commonly have some burbles. But now I’ve got a solid burble most of the time in that rpm range. throttle linkage “tunnel” is all clear, TPS was all dialed in, requiring very little adjustment on the last tune up (early summer, about 100miles ago), valves were good needing no adjustment. Only new thing I’ve done this year is I usually will adjust the right throttle body idle screw in till its just touching the lever, once all the tuning and idle adjustments (left side) are done. I left it all the way out this time. Shouldn’t make any difference, but its a change. I’ll just be messing with this issue during this late-starting riding season, but curious if others have thoughts. Cheers

Whatever. Cheer up y'all. I'm sure these ladies ain't singin' our song . . .

Know that "resistive" current ratings will over-rate the relay for "continuous" use. The "Picker Components" relay looks like a contender, although the NC continuous current rating is not revealed in the data sheet. The Panasonic, we have evaluated before. It is a quality 10/20 amp continuous relay. I just would not trust them in 15/25 (NC/NO) V11 circuits. YMMV

Without any intention of hijacking this thread and turning it into a relay one, I will just say that I spent a lot of time researching suitable relays alternative for the v11 and I would be wary of any relays offering on ebay coming out of China... The ebay vendor I got the Omrons from back in December is still offering them, albeit at twice the price I paid for them.. I think they've learned the value of what they're sitting on.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/162517009426 Aside from the CIT's @docc posted above, here are a few more alternatives I found: (Disclaimer: Even though I haven't tried these, all specs suggest they would be a good alternative for the V11) https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/picker-components/PC782-1C-12S-R-X/12352866 https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/panasonic-electric-works/CM1-12V/647128

That is a very astute observation that this latest ebay listing has the "OMRON" labeling obscured and the declaration, "unbranded." Unlike the relays @Speedfrog posted in December 2021:

Just my personal observation after miss Curiosity pushed me to check that listing.. I know, I know, curiosity killed the cat

Take my advice- since I'm probably only the latest in a long history of sufferers- use Craig DeOxit on all your relay terminals and use silicone (dielectric) grease when you assemble them. I chased gremlins for a long time, rejecting advice here from multiple sources, which turned out to be dirty relay contacts. Despite changing relays multiple times with the last time to the hard-to-find Omrons, nothing fixed it all until I cleaned and sealed the contacts properly.

Greenie came with led signals. When going thru the bike, lot's of extra wiring and resistors. All that gone and working fine with the cheap orange flasher, bet mine is the same as po18guy. Using the same flasher on Rosso Corsa with led bulbs. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-A525F via Tapatalk

Thanks A Y ’runs good stationary’ is a start - but looking forward to that ride report! Three months later hopefully you’ve managed to get in enough saddle time to add in some further impressions on the impact your gears make. Thanks VeeEleven - your note ‘She just runs better’ concurs with Pressureangle’s impressions. But - do you recall if your valves were incorrectly gapped in any way before your gear installation?? Pressureangle relayed previously his were tight & required adjustment - so this also needs to be accounted for ie., hard starting etc., as opposed to all subsequent benefits being simply apportioned to the gears. Pressureangle’s experience with his drivetrain lash amelioration is highly intriguing - and maybe warrants further observations or analysis by other gear recipients enquiring minds! I’m hoping everyone who bought JC’s gears installs & are able to follow up with their impressions - adds a collective depth of experience to this thread before it merely runs cold without definitive dispassionate conclusions. (Any comparative commentary ie., Valtech, additionally provides clarity to this threads historical value in the future).

I have the same impressions as pressureangle after 2000-odd km. She just runs better. To be fair, my chaindrive probably sucked and was in need of replacement, but, hey, the gears were still being made so for me the choice was easy. The wicked noise the gears generate is an added bonus.

Ok, here is what I did: - Reset both air bleed screws at 3/4 turn open - Adjust balance using white knob - Set idle a little higher, around 1350rpm on the gauge (forgot to bring my laptop, so could not check GD) Observations: - I am an idiot as I did not back off the RH idle raiser/choke screw last time, hence all adjustments I did last time were not perfect - Drivability has significantly increased! Still some pops when opening the throttle at idle, but significantly better! - I measured TPS resistance between the two wires. When i start opening the throttle real slow, it starts off at 1070Ohm, slowly dips to 1065Ohm, slowly rises to 1200, dips to 1170, rises further. There are some minor dips every time (does not matter whether I use the throttle lever or the connecting rod), but is this an issue, or normal?

Mine is here: http://www.pashnit.com/bikes/V11-Lemans.htm 2002 Champagne