Leaderboard

Presently, my CO is set + 11. It got there while I was chasing another problem (minor air leaks around the vacuum taps) and is entirely arbitrary. I thought about putting back to zero, but it just seems rather right. Feels good. And spells "nevele " backward. I can tell you the factory setting of minus 27 totally sucked and I chased that mess for years until @andy york made it right. Also, I have observed very high, double-digit positive CO Fuel Trim settings from attempts to try and correct something else. Which it won't.

There special tools for this Banjo. Not all engine blocks are machined the same at the banjo oil feed point and even a thin walled spanner or socket won't fit on some engines. I know because I have 4 sets of cases at home and the machining clearance for the banjo fitting is quite a bit different on a couple of them. The tool on the top LHS is one I made for removing oil pressure switches on Daytona engines. It's between a long and normal socket in length. The others are for the Banjo. Why two tools for the banjo? Because the "swing" is restricted down in the "V" and to get that last 1/2 flat rotation you sometimes need the socket. Phil

Alrighty, now.. they are winging your way as we type. I've sent a PM or email to all. Please excuse the stilted language, I just copied and pasted the message and changed the amount as necessary. Thanks to all that have participated in this last run of shifter extenders. I know, I've said that before, but these are the best of the lot, IMHO. Rare and highly collectible, of course. Back to work on the airplane project..

This won't work I dont think. It states for "custom console applications only" and I think the wall thickness will be too thick to fit the std V11 console. Others may be able to confirm my thoughts. Phil

How long is a piece of string? It's like asking how many turns should I set my idle screw or air screws. There is no definitive answer. The CO trim is set to what each individual engines needs are. You can do it by "feel" or hook up an EGA and set it to the factory CO level and then see if it runs best at that OR try a setting either side of that and see if it runs better there. Phil

Hi Ken, I currently have three ECU's that I've collected over the years. About six months ago after doing a complete tune on my 2000 V11 I plugged in Guzzidiag to check all the parameters. I still had a little choppy idle and found the stock ECU c/o trim set at +65. I lowered it to get the best idle at +35 and bike rode very well through all throttle inputs. When I got back from the test ride I plugged in the other two ECU's and one was at-7 the other at+15. both idled o k but not as smooth as the original. I realize that without a proper analyzer I'm just doing it by "feel" but the ride is smooth without any hiccups.. My conclusion was that there are enough differences in the ecu's to adjust them individually for your best situation. My Paul B

I just checked- I've never had them off on the 'Sport, mine are identical to those on the '85 LM1000. That is to say, they're a PITA but can be removed with common end wrenches. Some wrenches are thinner and smaller than others, could play havoc. Or the later bikes may have a different connection altogether. I got nothin'.

I’m going to start reading up more on the Veglia’s. At this early point I’m looking at this “gauge cup” for the 80mm Veglia from MGcycle, wondering if its actually a replacement for the stock Veglia housing, or if rather the whole existing gauge sits inside this cup? https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2741 My housing is functional, but the back side (facing forward on back, back of the instrument) somehow came all bent out of shape, with the mounting studs barely hanging on, and the illumination bulb missing. The holes on the back of the MGcycle gauge cup look to mostly match what i see on the back of my Veglia speedo, though missing the two holes for the screws where the speedo cable goes (easily remedied if this is in fact a housing and not just a mounting cup). Fact that its in 2 pieces seems like its perhaps not a replacement housing, but not sure.

Unbelievable! 3 days to San Francisco?? DeJoy's slow the mail down plan failed on that one.. As soon as Ken PMs me his address there will be one left.

The stealth color is so that none of your riding buddies will know that you have the shifting advantage.

Got mine today, Chuck. As always, very nice work. Thank you! Mine is classic black, but that is a nice shade of blue.

I'd like to know, too

the topic for the shift extender

The thread diameter of the part that the knob's shaft threads onto looks like 2.5mm to me.

mgcycle has them looks like https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=86

Here is the direct link to the “Guzzi” cables. https://www.lonelec.com/product/guzzidiag-3pin-interface-cable-kit/ All you have to do is choose an option for the cable to plug to your computer/tablet/phone. The original cables came with USB-A plug attached for standard PC connection. I’d go for that, you can always use an adapter if you want to plug into a tablet/phone.

Lonelec in the UK had proven very reliable for the two diagnostic cables.