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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/04/2022 in all areas

  1. Great summer evening at the local Guzzi meet
    2 points
  2. This exact same thing happened to me about 3 weeks ago on my RC. Was riding home on a back road having a great time...looked down and saw my tach not working...oh oh. About 5 minutes later my bike started running rough, on one cylinder, then just died. I was able to find a nice Oak shade tree and called for a tow pickup home. Attempts to restart were met with no cranking. After checking all, decided to put in some reserve OMRON relays that I had (should've done this on the side of the road). Anyway, after doing a full tune up, oil change and under tank check on all the connectors, she fired right up and is good to go again. I do think it was the #2, which I didn't think was as susceptible to issues as the starter circuit. Andy
    2 points
  3. Latest version of Guzzidiag has the ABS pump purging feature previously only available through PADS. Cali 1400's do not have linked brakes.
    2 points
  4. Looks like I need the latest version of GuzziDiag. Then I have to find a Windows computer. Granson has one I think. I suppose its in keeping with the bikes! The trouble with Guzzis is that they push you towards excellence and they are relatively easy to work on. Not sure wether or not that is a good thing but it keeps me amused.
    1 point
  5. The first thing I learned on this site was check the damn relays. Then get a Roper plate.
    1 point
  6. Make sure the shifter / pivot bolt have not rusted together . TRUST ME on that one .
    1 point
  7. Hi, @FreyZI ! Just a bump to say I am still looking forward to this project coming around. We are 4 months since the "Answered" post and 6 weeks from the last update. Any news on where we are? Also, has the commitment list been updated for those who have decided otherwise? Looks like the Hump/Booty Lid Sheet would edit: @deadpen69 = Zero @Tom in Virginia = Zero @Dan M = +1/ black @Stumble_t = +1 ? (I still count 13 plus anyone who is going for more than one.)
    1 point
  8. 1 point
  9. Sorry to say so, but this does not sound right to me... (if these statements have been retracted in the meantime, I apologize for pointing to them "again") The "charging system" on the V11 consists of nothing more than a voltage regulator (not a current regulator, as stated above). In Guzzi's case, it regulates to 14-14.6V on its own terminals (not battery). The voltage on terminals never exceeds 14.6V, If it does, the regulator is faulty. Charging current is theoretically limited by the regulator's voltage, battery's state of charge (voltage on the battery with no load), battery's internal resistance (milliohms range) and parasitic resistance of the wires and connectors between the charger and the battery (also low ohm range), practically however it is limited by the alternator's/regulator's capacity. Max current that the regulator can deliver is 27,5A@10k RPM (~400W). You will need roughly half of that to supply the regular load (150-200W), so not more than 10-15A will be available to the battery at any time. Only battery can blow the 30A fuse, regulator cannot. If it's blown, there is a short southward of the battery/fuse. Docc, where did you find that info on "battery priming"? Odyssey is quite explicit on "never exceed 15V" and their charger's documentation also does not provide any statements on high current/voltage spikes. Can you perhaps post a link to a document? I know my comment is more than a year late and I sincerely hope it does not spur a flame war. This is definitely not the intention.
    1 point
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