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If AliXpress were selling parachutes.........would you buy one . You get what you pay for . get YOUR injectors serviced . I am sure MG used quality parts when they built your bike .

Look what I found, they just got my $25! https://www.ebay.com/itm/173280260339

Yeah that part was really interesting. I had just finished my research when I saw the exhibit, and I found it disappointing that all those panels conformed to the standard narrative of van Gogh, whose story has become somewhat mythical. The standard narrative is that after vincent's death, people took another look at his art and began to appreciate it. But in yet another case where a woman's role has been ignored historically, it was Johanna van Gogh-Bonger who got the world to appreciate Vincent's art. The exhibit made only passing mention of her as his brother Theo's wife, but without her, it is likely that van Gogh's work would have been destroyed. Vincent never sold a painting in his life, so they were all "worthless" when she inherited them. And despite being advise to throw Vincent's paintings away, she worked for many years to get them exhibited. There is a bit of her story here on wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Johanna_van_Gogh-Bonger

^agree with Phil on this. I don't want to do do that job again. Kindy02 did a fabulous job on a Scura having all the cases stripped (or media-blasted) then powder-coated. Obviously, this approach is only available after removing all moving parts and bearings. If one wants to repaint the engine or tranny without a rebuild, the stripper is the only (semi)-practical solution.

How did you test the injectors? I imagine that the spray pattern would change with different pressure and different fluids. I used a spray can of mass airflow sensor cleaner and got a good spray pattern when each injector was momentarily powered. Perhaps your single stream could become a mist at normal pump pressure.

Japanese translation from back in the day.. Italian isn't so bad..

Wow, that is such a great question! As this is not an organized "rally" or actual "event", but only an "idea" - there really (really) is no schedule, locations, or prescribed roads or routes - yet, there are some historical commonalities . . . There tends to be a lot going on in the garage at TheLodgeatTellico all weekend, especially in the evenings. Folks tend to arrive Thursday or Friday, sometimes even Saturday. Most of us leave-out Sunday morning, but some stay on. Saturday invites us to ride as, and with whom, we see fit. Often solo, in pairs, or small groups will sally forth to engage the hills and dales (as well as the Appalachian Divide including the Cherohala Skyway and US 129 Deal's Gap/ "The Tail of the Dragon"). Saturday lunch at The Tapoco Lodge by the Cheoah ("Fugitive") Dam is very popular and we often find each other there, or another mile up US129 at the "Crossroads" (with NC28) that anchors the Tail of the Dragon. Y'all get familiar with the roads and places. Bring your maps and GPS routes to share and compare. Friday evening, under the pavilion at The Lodge at Tellico, will see some plans hatched and some alliances formed . . .

Yep, this happened. https://photos.app.goo.gl/uiGrG5QnLyfB3WtE9

Oh lord, I had one of those.

This one is a 500cc. It gets up and goes!

I'd love a scooter. I hired one in Rome 25 years ago to ride around for a few days 2 up with the wife. It was nothing special as it was a hire scooter maybe 125 at the most and it was great fun. I'd like one for quick trips to the shops for milk etc. Phil

It doesn't work. The outlet is not for a 12mm hose. So now you need an adaptor to take you from a 5/16 or 8mm hose to the 12mm pump inlet size over a very short run of hose which is extremely hard to do as you need every bit of flex over that short length of hose to align with the pump inlet. even if you can you now you have additional clamps and possible leak points. Oh and in addition the Guzzi uses a 16mm thread on the tank connection which this doesn't suit. If it was this simple I wouldn't have bothered modifying the original. Phil

What I have found is nearly all ebay and amazon items, were purchased and resold from AliExpress. I've stop paying middleman prices and have bene ordering direct the last few years. The price difference is great. yes, I will get my OEM injectors to work.

Just put that onto my watch list I haven't checked what the threads are on the Guzzi part as I don't want to drain the tank right now If you do size yours it would be great if you could tell us if this is a direct replacement as I'd purchase a couple for my bikes. If you check his stores for a few dollars more he offers an assembly with the guaze filter and/or the filter separately

https://www.witchhunter.com/spraypattern1.php

Scud, thanks for sharing that theory. Van Gogh's bullet wound was in the stomach or chest, right? An unlikely place for a self-inflicted wound. I saw the exhibit when it was in Boston. One of the best elements was the pre-exhibit room, that had panels of information on his life and history.

That is possible . I would GUESS the operating fuel pressure to be 45 lbs psi. Somewhere in my shop I have a Kent-Moore fuel injector trigger mechanism to trigger GM and Bosch style fuel injectors. You would have to remove the TB to manifold boot and trigger the injector to verify the spray pattern . And this pattern will be an atomized pattern .

The tap should be on the left so the odd sized 12mm outlet hose is as short as possible directly into the fuel pump. There's limited room down there and the 12mm hose is quite stiff so you don't need it taking up more space than absolutely necessary and also putting unnecessary strain on the pump inlet with it looping around under there. The taps are a good design let down by cheaping out on the seal material. They can't be disassembled and re assembled without modification. I did a thread on the modification I came up with on these so they use Viton seals which don't swell in fuel instead of the std nitrile which do and it can be rebuilt in the future. The mod also means the tap doesn't jam after time when the original seals swell. using pliers to close them for tank removal puts strain on the fuel tank fastener inserts and if you damage one of these then the whole tank is junk. Phil

A end of year is the expected release $16k base $19k for upgrades.

Just to add that I don't think it'll make any difference on which side the Petcock and pressure regulator are, providing the tubing in the fuel system is rearranged to suit. However if the Petcock and pressure regulators have just been swapped over then I doubt the engine would start. You'll also be running the pump dry and that won't be doing it any good either. Line from the Petcock should run to the fuel pump inlet, the pump outlet then runs to the fuel filter, from the fuel filter a line runs to one of the injectors then the other after that a line runs up to the regulator on the tank (ASS-uming it's the same a HiCam or Sporti). I'd follow the Petcock line and make sure it's running to the pump inlet, if it's running to one of the injectors then you'll need to swap the Petcock and pressure regulator components around. Apologies if I'm "teaching my granny"

Aircraft stripper *used to* have methylene chloride in it. It *really* worked well. It is not in it any more for good reason.. and it doesn't work nearly as well, either I was involved with carcinogens in the tool room at GM, and it most likely didn't do me any favors. Here's what methylene chloride can do: Nervous system effects such as cognitive impairment, effects on attention Cancer of the liver, brain, and lung, as well as non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma or multiple myeloma Liver toxicity Kidney toxicity Reproductive toxicity

Bit late but it was posted up with an article on WG a long time back. Bored out 1100 Sport. One of my all time favourates but as Professor Roper said increasing the capacity of an 1100 Sport was questionable given its already marginal crankcase breathing

Errr? Not quite. The driveline shock absorber and is a face cam type. The two cams parts #15 and the collar at the back of assembly #16 rotate in relation to one another. As a torque loading is imposed, either by suspension movement by the shaft or, more seriously by shock loadings imposed by sudden acceleration and gear changing up and down the box, the two cams run up against each other and the Bellville washer tower acts like a spring to absorb the energy. When the load is removed the energy is discharged back through the cams to the shafts. The free play between 'Power on' and 'Power off' as detectable by rotational movement of the rear wheel when the engine is stopped but engaged in a gear has nothing to do with the shock absorber. It is simply backlash between the engagement dogs of the gears. There has to be backlash to allow the rapidly spinning but differentially speeding dogs to slip into engagement. If they fit precisely together the chances of them slipping into engagement would be negligible. The wider the 'Gap' between the dogs the slicker the engagement but, unfortunately, the greater the hammer loading on dogs and gear teeth as one goes from throttle off to throttle on and visa versa in any gear. Probably the best example of the dangers of increasing this backlash in a Guzzi gearbox can be found in the early Carb Sports and Daytona 1000 models with the old five speed box. In an attempt to speed up the gear change without spending any money the selector dog collars and pinions went from the long standing six dog engagement to three dog. This leads to ENORMOUS radial travel between power off and power on meaning when the gear is selected and you are accelerating and decelerating the dogs have much longer to themselves accelerate and decelerate before power or braking is delivered and they hammer the living bejaysus out of themselves! This is absolute murder on the pinions and Sport C gearboxes in particular are terribly prone to bashing the case hardening off fifth gear closely followed by third before the rest of the box goes out in sympathy! The fact that many owners don't get the fact that the word 'Sport' means that you're supposed to ride them like the hounds of hell are chasing you and potter around at sub-4,000rpm lugging the entire driveline, (Which incidentally doesn't have a rubber cush drive in the rear wheel hub.) which simply accelerates the rate at which they beat themselves to death! After those two models the factory went to a compromise five dog engagement system and reincorporated the rubber cush in the rear wheel. This was a satisfactory compromise. Gear changes were a tiny bit less like dropping a brick in a bucket and the boxes no longer beat themselves to death. This system remained extant until the demise of the five speed and the rise and use of the first of the six speed, four shaft boxes used in the V11.

Very cool. The VanGogh museum in Amsterdam is on the infernal list of " museums I've set the alarm off" in, much to the amusement of my brother...stuck my nose too close to see the thick paint layers and set off a space alarm. The guards laughed, I was mortified. Probably can't do that anymore....

I went to the MotoA race at Road Atlanta this year, love the track, remember seeing Nicky Hayden in his early days of AMA racing. But I have concerns about the track lasting many more years, several large neighborhoods being built within miles of the track, we are talking 1000+ homes, at least it looked that way, the city of Atlanta will swallow it soon, and I doubt another will get built in the area. I think VIR is safe for a while, Barber also, but it will take Barber money to make a new track and keep it in business.

The Barycenter is involved, but not a clear illumination. More a more appropriate, if still difficult, concept is Moment of Inertia; the calculation of effort to revolve the masses *around* the barycenter. Specific to the leg-hanging-out, the rider can make minute adjustments to the moment of inertia between his major mass (bike/body) and his minor mass (leg) to move the barycenter to the tire centerline if it moves away. Anyone who's raced a post-1985 racebike knows the 'poor unicycle' feeling when the rear wheel unloads. When I was racing the fast guys were just learning to 'back it in' to the corners by braking hard enough and precisely enough to keep just enough rear wheel friction to control the rotation of the bike into the corner. Sketchy business and only for those of superhuman reflex. Hanging the leg gives another precise control upon braking, as having the back end weaving at all destroys your entry dynamic. I'm sure that's as clear as mud... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moment_of_inertia Think of a bowling ball and a barbell that have the same weight, and how much harder the 'bell is to swing in the plane of the bar. Moving the mass outward from center slows rotation, and for these guys they can put to use microscopic changes that we mortals can't even experience distinctly.

One reconditioned Fuel Tap. Many thanks to LuckyPhil for the research and to MartyNZ for the technical skills. The black heater hose is for added purchase. This is my original fuel tap which I replaced a few years ago. The replacement started leaking a few weeks ago. I mentioned it to Marty and he said right lets have a go at fixing it. He needs polygrips on his fuel tap so my spare is going to him to make a replacement for his bike

Doesn't this represent child abuse of some sort? I mean an EV first bike, are you trying to turn him off motorcycling or something? What next, a Fender Stratocaster with rubber strings to protect your hearing. What's the world coming to. Ciao

Very nice! Remember the Vroom Motor?

Fitted new fuel tap. Still need vice grips to open & close it About that offer Phil

Use the correct sized Viton or FKM seals and modify the tap body and spool to suit. If you send me one I'll do it for you. Might mean a month in postage though. Ciao

So for a non technical person could someone summarise what the solution is.

Perhaps just mount a quick connect in the bottom of the tank, there's really no need to shut the fuel off on a FI bike. Do you have an in tank or outside fuel pump? Personally I never had a problem with the Electric Petcock.

Thanks Marty cheaper than MG cycles when you consider the postage costs. I'd love to use something of better quality but the 1/2" outlet is the issue. Having said that I pulled the original electric tap out and removed the solenoid and lo and behold although the barb is 1/2" or 12 mm if you like the actual feed hole is only 5mm. So the only reason for the 12mm barb is to keep the hose a consistent size for the 12mm pump inlet not for flow purposes. There a a number of 8mm or 5/16 outlet taps out there with 16x1mm threads but it would mean machining up a 12mm to 8mm step down adaptor. You could then use std 5/16 or 8mm hose for 90% of the fuel line to the pump which is way more flexible and takes up less room. Things to consider. Ciao

I would welcome any other solution than the tap in reality. A std readily available QD is 5/16 (8mm) and the V11 outlet is 1/2" (12mm). The other issue is space under there specifically length. There isn't much if any spare distance between the tap outlet and the pump inlet for a 1/2 inch tube with its lack of flexibility to bend in an S shape. Most QD's take up 50mm of more which doesnt leave any room for the hose to bend. half inch rubber hose is way less flexible than 5/16. I spent a lot of time trying to source extra flexible 1/2' hose without luck. Ciao

Mine was leaking and replaced by an emergency repair with plumbing "L" fitting and a cork in the tankbag. I purchased an outboard boat fuel tank quickconnect. I mean to install it sometime hopefully without a huge mess. It's about 3 in long so I could have issues fitting it under the tank and might have a vapor lock issue with inadequate heat protection. By comparison, the little cork doesn't seem too bad.

Very nifty I have to say. What is even more wild is that it came from NZ. I mean think about it people from all of the world can now communicate almost immediately. I am sure given the age of most members here that probably used a slide rule in school that we never foresaw this coming in our lifetimes. And come on a home Guzzi mechanic over doing something. Never

Little update - got the deep socket yesterday. The timing gears are out and I'm going to start stripping the engine paint today. There's nothing like having a proper tool - and I'd be happy to loan it as needed. Yesterday I also received a nifty new fuel injector cleaner (also available for loan): I sent MartyNZ a pair of injector plugs from an old wiring harness and he made them into these fabulous injector cleaning kits. Nice long leads to attach to a battery (even if still on the bike), quick-connectors for the injector plug (so it can be used with other types of injectors) spray bottle adapters, clamps, etc. everything to make it super-easy on this first-timer (me). And here's the super-cool factor: a foot switch so you can hold the injector and spray bottle with two hands. And the super-super-cool factor: Marty put a light inside the wires - so it lights up when the injector is open. I probably over-cleaned the injectors just so I could watch it light up. Thanks Marty.

That fuel supply schematic is bizarre! (and unclear, at best) I never noticed that before. The actual tank schematic shows the fuel level sensor and electric fuel tap (petcock on the left, but the tap forward of the level sensor (incorrect). It is looking entirely possible that your fuel plumbing got mixed up . . .