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I ran across this video in my archives. Our V11 (Sport) is cast in an delightful, alluring light. Made more brilliant in the V11 "electrified" Legnano Green! At about 1:00, the line-up shows about 1/2 green(ies), 1/4 silver, and 1/6 black. Whether actually representative of actual production, these ratios are consistent with my (unofficial) observations . . .

After discovering an oil sprayed pant leg some years ago, I purchased these reusable valve cover gaskets for my V7. I've reused the same set ever since. I plan to purchase the same for my V11 once it's up and running and I adjust the valves. https://realgaskets.com/cart/ NOTE: I have no affiliation with this company.

I also had that problem. The gasket was sucked in. Thought the P.O. just didn't know how to install a valve cover gasket, but the number of people reporting this makes wonder. Docc talks about his original valve cover gaskets and that's fine for him, but some people seem to have an unnatural amount vacuum in their crankcase. A little bit of vacuum is a great thing but too much is going to pull blow by gases through the wrist pin. My bike pissed on the leg of my Stitch and I don't want my new Stitch baptized in the same manner.

Glad my obsession might be your possession. Ha

Another plus for these, I've recently also installed them on my V11 Scura...very nice quality. Docc will be pleased too since they are made in Tennessee!

Well, to me it shows some constant time that I like to relate to the slope of pressure drop when the engine is turned off. I started doing this when I had a pressure problem with a LM3. That light went off the instant the killswitch was off. It turned to have a bad adjusted pressure valve and worn crankshaft bearings. I guess a sort of a tick.

I don't own a V11 but have a Sport 1100 an LM 1000 & a HiCam engined bikes, so on V11 specifics I'm somewhat lacking, but AFAIK there is little difference between the V11 and Sport on the lubrication side. You obviously are well aware of the pressure behaviour on the bikes and I'm sure you also know that the oil pressure switches don't have the best reliability reputation. On your friends V11 it's almost certainly the bulb that's defective. I've never switched the bike off with the kill switch and then kept an eye on the pressure warning, so can't say for sure, if there would be a slight delay or not, but I can't recall seeing it happen. I've never ran a 2 v/v bike on 10/60, but the additional viscosity might also increase the pressure decay time. I also don't understand the statement about the oil pressure being out after the bike stalls (ignition OFF), the light will be out if the igntion swtich if OFF as there is no voltage to it, pressure or not it will not illuminate. If the light doesn't illuminate when the ignition is on and the engine has not been run the pressure switch is defective or starting to fail. What I'd do is either replace the switch, remove the exisitng switch and test it, or install a temporary gauge into the pressure switch location to separate the true pressure behaviour in the system from the instrumentation. If installing a gauge I believe the crankcase thread for the switch is an M12x1.5 thread Here is a crank test on a HiCam (4v/v) bike with cold 15W/50 oil, it doesn't have any relevance except you can see there is a short period when the engine stops rotating and the pressure decays to approx 7psi. That's on cold oil though, I'd expect it to be much quicker on a hot engine

"The best cars wear their stories, dents and all." Reading this love(er)ly article by James Mills for Hagerty really spoke to me. It reminded me of so many, er, "nuances" that I have allowed, tolerated, ignored, or surrendered to, on mySport. And the place we are arriving with 20+ year old motorbikes that are, if not "rare", at least vastly uncommon. And if not "peculiar", at least > full of character < (like that uncle who liked to fire off his Napoleonic six-pounder and made his own whisky). Sure, I battled with the finish on the alternator cover time after time. It was becoming a line item in the scheduled maintenance. Then, it made up it's own mind about what it wanted to be . . . A couple weeks ago, at our local gather-up for coffee and Reubens, a fellow cocked his head and said, "Yo, docc, does that say 'nope' on your bike ?" I had to admit to the "patina" and said, "There are at least three stories behind that. But we're out of beer. Catch you at the "South'n SpineRaid !" Pretty sure we are beyond, "That is not the correct vacuum tap for the 2003 V11." Or, "This V11 LeMans would be more correct with the proper and original _____________ " (fill in the blank). I'm betting your V11 "patina" could tell some stories "if it could speak" . . .

I didn’t do much to document this “resto” but the synopsis on this old girl are as follows: Late last fall I was alerted to a CL ad about a V7 Sport project 4 hrs away from me. I had no intention of buying such a thing and never really imagined I would. I had four bikes and not much space but called the guy anyway. I got the lowdown on what he had and decided it was worth a look. It had what looked like good bones, tons of spares, numbers matching, en extra 850 hot rod engine (cam, high comp, dual spark) and we settled on a price. It was missing the 4ls front drum and exhaust a few other odds and ends. The PO had a solid lead on a 4ls and re-pop exhausts are available. As I dug into it reality hit. I was prepared to rebuild the engine but it really needed everything, I mean everything. In my parts search I was able to find that this bike had some type of racing provenance m, apparently winning some inaugural class in the 70’s. I can tell you they didn’t win by NOT crashing! Long story short, I’ve been through the old girl completely, all seals, all hardware replaced. I bought it in November, got the frame from PC and then major engine components in January, took my first ride in May! In its current guise I’m running S3/850t foot controls (LH shift, slightly more forward) while I search for correct brackets. Lightened flywheel, somewhat hotter cam, sump spacer w/external oil filter. Otherwise mostly stock including points. The stock starter is ditched in favor of the Bosch gargantuan. Ive got about 1500 miles on it now and still have quite a bit more to go as funds and availability allow. It has a horrible paint job and a pretty scruffy headlight, along with the foot controls at that point I’ll call it good. Riding the short stroke v7 is a lot of fun. Power is similar to 850t/T3 just moved up in the rev range 500rpm. The sports are geared super high! Even lazy shifting has me clicking into 2nd at indicated 50mph (80kmh)! stripping it for PC delivery day current

This is precisely why the automotive industry moved to "steady state" coolant temperature gauges (if any coolant temp gauge at all!). Ever notice that your car's coolant temp gauge points right at the middle, or slightly below, within a mile from start-up? And never varies, even in brutally hot ambient temps stuck in traffic? This is because owners would present their vehicle for service because "the needle is all over the place!" Now the "needle" stays "steady state" over a very broad range of (normal) operating temperatures. Actual coolant temperature (and perhaps oil pressure?) is like sausage. The less we know about the details, the better we sleep at night . . .

These are a sub optimal solution. The Gold standard are Valpolini metal core gaskets with integral sealer coating. Same style and principle as the late model BB front timing cover gaskets and every engine cover gaskets Ducati have used for the last 25 years. Bullet proof sealing and zero chance of squeeze failure. Phil

For general information to anyone reading this thread in the future this methodology is flawed and it's best to stick with the historically tried and tested oil pressure observations for troubleshooting. This LOP light on after the kill switch timing thing has way too many variables to be a troubleshooting tool. If the engine runs fine and has no unusual noises and the LOP stays off at idle in hot weather in traffic and the used oil has no concerning contamination then all is fine with the oil system. What do you do on a weekend trip or touring trip when you use this observation technique? Stop for fuel and for one of a dozen different reasons the LOP light illuminates without or with a reduced delay compared to usual observations? Pull up and start troubleshooting and have the engine apart? What would be an acceptable amount of delay? 1 second? 3 seconds? Sometimes people can go looking for issues and worries. Fitting an OPG every 30 or 40,000klms for an oil system evaluation would be reasonable but only for the oil pressure obsessed. It's the same as permanently fitted LOP gauges, a waste of time and added failure points and complexity. All you get is additional things to worry about and questions to observations you don't have the knowledge to understand. There's a good reason motorcycles in particular don't come standard with LOP gauges and only a light. It's just too cruel for the OCD riders out there. Even modern cars with LOP gauges dont use actual direct reading gauges anymore they use an indication derived and calculated from the ecu for the display and rely on a LOP switch and light for indication and warnings. If they used direct reading gauges that indicated the actual oil pressure the dealerships would be overflowing with owners with oil pressure issues. It's not just about the engineering but human psychology as well. Phil

I'll confirm, but there's certainly nothing going on that implaies corrosion. Went back to the stock footpegs/rearsets and it could just be the way the linkage sits. I've never felt good about the way it adjusts compared to any other bike set up. They all seem to like the arm pretty close to 90 degrees from the shaft/spindle. I'll fuss with it and play around until I can get a nice range of movement with it again.

Hope it will be my possession. If/when I get it, I would def. want to raise the bars a bit more, as I pretty sure stock riding position will be too aggressive for me. For which I would need help/guidance from this forum/you. Thanks.

Same here . On my way back from Jonesboro ,Ill. Brand new boots and one shoe was oil soaked by the time I got home . The gasket was so messed up , I wondered if the wrong gasket was on it ? Never knew it til I got home .

A couple years ago at the South'n SpineRaid, one our generous (Tennessee) members handed out some of these gaskets as party favors. I keep the valve cover gaskets in the pannier as spares. Sometimes, there are just not enough hands on deck to properly construct gaskets from scratch . . .

I lifted this from another site, years ago, since my 2010 V7 is this color. V7 Café Classic Paint Code Using all of my super Spidey senses, including deductive skills worthy of Sherlock Holmes' smarter older brother, I present to the Moto Guzzi community the paint code for the weird greenish gold color found on the V7 Café known alternately as "Legnano Green" or "Solaris Yellow": (drum roll please) Nissan paint code ER4. Long story short, I had a warranty repair done to my gas tank due to the bike being delivered with the right side horn rotated up so high that, thanks to normal engine vibrations, some paint got rubbed off. Thinking ahead, I asked the dealer to provide a bottle of touch-up paint and the paint code for future reference. The paint code from Moto Guzzi was unobtainium, so the dealer, Steel Horse Classics, used a professional auto body shop who matched the paint perfectly. When it was all done I got a small bottle of paint with ER4 written on it. My first search for ER4 turned up somthing like 1996 Nissan Gold. Since I don't know anything at all about automotive paint codes, my first reaction was "what? - nah! - must be some mistake". I have since learned that ER4 was likely never used on any US market Nissan car and is listed at various web sites only under the years 1996, 95-97, and 98-99 (for the Nissan Micra). The color description on these sites is listed as any one of the following: Gold, Gold Pearl, Yellow, Yellow Olive, Yellow Olive Effect, and finally my favorite, Sumatra Yellow Metallic. Solaris Yellow or Legnano Green is never mentioned anywhere. I found a US based outfit (automotivetouchup.com) that would supply a touch up bottle of ER4 and I did a comparision with the bottle I received from the dealer. I have concluded that they are one and the same color. The bottle I received from automotivetouchup.com was way to thinned out for proper use as a touch-up paint, so I had to apply multiple coats to get proper color density. I think that due to all the color elements in this paint, use for touch-ups will probably always be less than satisfactory unless it is professionally sprayed on. Anyway, just my small contribution to the Guzzi pool of knowledge and the three or four people out there who may find this information useful! Splotch on left is automotivetouchup.com 1996 Nissan paint code ER4 (yellow); splotch on the right is from the auto body paint shop that did the warranty repair.

I doubt this adds to your initial post, but I'll share it just the same. I have a 2010 V7. For years, I never saw the oil pressure light. Then once while riding at over 100mph, I heard a bang, white smoke bellowed our of the left tailpipe. I pulled over, then towed it home. After inspection I couldn't find anything wrong, so I started it and it ran fine, and has for well over another 10,000 miles. The bike currently has 23k on the clock. However, since that time, the oil pressure light comes on sometimes if I sustain speed on the freeway. So when I ride 20 freeway miles to work, holding the throttle steady for minutes on end at roughly 80mph, the light will sometimes come on for a few moments, then back off. I checked and checked, and could not solve the issue, including swapping the engine case breather check valve. I've finally ignored it and continue to ride with no problems.

Phil, this is indeed not well explained. I switch OFF with the RUN/STOP button, because I like to check the delay in the OIL Pressure Light. That is where the delay is coming from.

I dunno about you guys.... But that thing's sexy.

True, that, brother. I made other, sketchy, mistakes with my failed lift. Chief among them: placing the sump jack at the forward edge of the sump to better lift the front. Bad idea! (as it turned out) (it slipped out) and lifted the rear support sideways. Already half-way to a bad day . . .

I trust this @czakky guy, and can't wait to see where this V7 Sport goes!

That there is the Coppa Di Merda Limited edition.. An "Enhanced" survivor.. Stripe added for" ultra speed"..Limited edition parts from E. Baye and special Amazonian racer parts from Jaque Bezos. Exquisite. Timeless.. Wait.. Down $1200????? They wanted $7200 at one time for that?!!