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Hope everyone is well, I got nothing practical to add to the forum but just to say hi, guzzi running great, thanks for the info, i read alot and use it all.

@motortouring, while I find my 2000 Sport retains oil pressure (light stays off) briefly after shut down (with the Run Switch off / Ignition on), I don't actually monitor the time or consider the information actionable. Yet, when the Ignition is switched on (regardless of the Run Switch position), the LOP light (and the "Battery" light on the early V11) should be lit. If they are not, or "not always" this would lead me to investigate the circuitry involved: yes, the pressure sender and its connection, but also Relay #2 and its connections. On the early V11 wiring, this function also relies upon current through the weak NC contact of Relay#1. The relay contacts are especially suspect when more than one function fails simultaneously (no LOP light along with no Battery Light). There is the "Wiggle Test" (I'm not making this up! ) to consider. With the seat off (for access) and the light(s) do not come on as expected: "wiggle"/jostle/wrangle/bump/tap Relay #2 , Relay#1, Fuse #5, and the connection to the LOP sender. Observe for change in illumination and from what was "wiggled." P.S. - I recall the early V11 (likely the later V11, as well) connected the wire to the LOP sender with a barely shielded "bullet" connector. This is located in the air/weather/spray stream on the left side, top of the engine case ahead of the left cylinder base. Strongly recommended to clean, crimp, and seal (Vaseline®?) this connection. I went a step further and sourced the rubber boot fitted to the "EV" models ( GU12717600 ) . . .

There are no problems with buying the parts separately Rolf. The only thing to be aware of is that you will need to know which head gaskets to buy and you won't know that for certain until you have a head off to measure one. Most, (Like 90% of) engines use the middle 0.85mm gaskets so it's pretty safe to buy them but if it turns out the guess was wrong you need to wait while you get the right ones. Flick me an email, (I think you still have it don't you?) and I'll send you the list of what to order. In return you can tell me who the hell has 'B' kits in stock! I can't find them for love or money! EDIT! I've got your email. Give me a few hours and I'll send you a list of bits you need.👍

Plastic doesn't patina like metal. Plastic bikes don't age well. My 1989 LeMans is developing some Patina from both age and use. I kind of like it that way and have no intention of restoring it.

I like to thank all of you for your responses, sharing experiences and urge to rational methods. Very helpful and when it is about engines (particularly Guzzi), I just love to read it.

I wasn't going to post again, but, the PRV release pressure can be adjusted by shimming the spring to compress, making the valve lift at higher pressures. With the HiCam engine my own experience was the OEM spring acuation wasn't all or nothing, it partially lifted, prior to full lift When I conducted static tests on the valve I found the lift pressure with cold oil on the bench was higher than the pressure when I ran the valve in the engine. My best guess why this occurs (and it's no more than that) was the valve cycling inside the running engine. The result was the running pressure in the engine was lower than the lift pressure obtained on the bench. I also want to thank @Lucky Phil for all the time and help he generously gave me and the solution of installing the Griso spring into the PRV in the HiCam. Without it I'd still be groping around in the dark. The aforementioned results were with the 4v/v engine and it's different to the 2v/v engine. I've never had the need to conduct any tests on a 2v/v engine as I've never experienced any problems with the 2v/v bikes. On both of mine the pressure is stable at approximately the PRV lift pressure of 60psi once the engine is up to temp and revs over 2ks. No idea if that's any help or not but thought I'd add it just in case

I've been poked with a stick before on oil pressure and my approach to monitoring with what I percieved as a potential problem engine. I don't think my phillosophy is 100% correct for all people on all ocassions, nor do I believe it's 100% wrong. IMHO there is more than "one way to skin a cat" and the answers to questions/problems don't need to be mutually exclusive. EDIT: And just to let everybody in on a little secret, the reason manufacturers don't fit gauges to vehicles anymore?............Accountants I'll get my coat

I think patina when I see one like this. Surface rust and lovingly sun faded. Beautiful in it's way.

When I was a kid growing up in a small town, I remember my parents spinning stories among friends and neighbors about that one butcher and how it should be avoided to buy sausages from him. It was said that his sausages were filled, among other things, with wood chips scraped from the chopping block... and anybody that’s been in an old butcher shop has seen that massive worn out chopping block and how much wood is missing from this thing.. (the psychology factor..) I don’t know how much of that stemmed from local lore or misguided bias toward that particular butcher shop but it sure made a lasting impression on little me. I try not to think about it when I’m at the grill with a stack of wieners.. Grill’ em until crisp and enjoy with your favorite topping and please, please put away that pocky digital temperature thingy you just wielded out of your pocket. Intermezzo finito, I’ll go back to my corner now..

This is precisely why the automotive industry moved to "steady state" coolant temperature gauges (if any coolant temp gauge at all!). Ever notice that your car's coolant temp gauge points right at the middle, or slightly below, within a mile from start-up? And never varies, even in brutally hot ambient temps stuck in traffic? This is because owners would present their vehicle for service because "the needle is all over the place!" Now the "needle" stays "steady state" over a very broad range of (normal) operating temperatures. Actual coolant temperature (and perhaps oil pressure?) is like sausage. The less we know about the details, the better we sleep at night . . .

"The best cars wear their stories, dents and all." Reading this love(er)ly article by James Mills for Hagerty really spoke to me. It reminded me of so many, er, "nuances" that I have allowed, tolerated, ignored, or surrendered to, on mySport. And the place we are arriving with 20+ year old motorbikes that are, if not "rare", at least vastly uncommon. And if not "peculiar", at least > full of character < (like that uncle who liked to fire off his Napoleonic six-pounder and made his own whisky). Sure, I battled with the finish on the alternator cover time after time. It was becoming a line item in the scheduled maintenance. Then, it made up it's own mind about what it wanted to be . . . A couple weeks ago, at our local gather-up for coffee and Reubens, a fellow cocked his head and said, "Yo, docc, does that say 'nope' on your bike ?" I had to admit to the "patina" and said, "There are at least three stories behind that. But we're out of beer. Catch you at the "South'n SpineRaid !" Pretty sure we are beyond, "That is not the correct vacuum tap for the 2003 V11." Or, "This V11 LeMans would be more correct with the proper and original _____________ " (fill in the blank). I'm betting your V11 "patina" could tell some stories "if it could speak" . . .

for realgaskets parts. Used...and re-used on my V11 without incident.

My Vintage Red tank is such a rich beautiful color, I'll be repainting the remaining plastics as opposed to embracing the patina. With that said, I'm a traditional hot rod fan (Aces Car Club member); all about the patina.

I bought it about two weeks ago, Amazon. Because it was purchased online, no returns! I put it on a 2amp trickle last night, this morning it reads 12.69. I must say though, the bike turns hard and fast, no problem. This is not the reason it's not lighting on gas. The injectors will be pulled again this weekend, I'll clean them and if no success, I'll get them cleaned or replaced altogether.

I'm currently in "wear the rear tire out so I can put the new one on" mode lol.

The bulb is, but its the mount, the 3rd item down on the page. I just had a bare wire (taped) under the speedo cowl when I got into it. I think the bulb on that same page, the 1st item, is for the idiot lights, and easily available, as would be the bulb for the speedo. So the question on the speedo bulb is just which LED replacement option have people liked, and then for the mount its that 3rd item down on the UK site web page.

@Lucky PhilI didn't mean to have the all covering solution to potential oil pressure problems :-). The methodology is flawed (and then you put it mildly), but so are a lot of methods. When running a test-center back in the past, the accreditation counsel always joked that at the end every sensor is temperature sensor, suggesting that temperature should always in the equation for correction. An incorrect pressure release valve is difficult to find with cold oil (in the workshop). A short blink of the LOP-light in a corner at low revs and the lack of delay in LOP light gave my workshop immediately the hint to first check the valve. I must say, I had never even heard or thought that the valve could be calibrated. Unfortunately, I had driven it to long at low pressure, so harm was done to the bearings of the crankshaft. But I will order a new pressure sensor for the V11 '99. They turn out to be less than 10 Euro :-).

Hmmm… more for me to chew on. I’ll probably have to just pick my favorite and go with that. thanks for that lagrasta

Back in the 80's docc I had a new GPZ900 Kawasaki. They used to run quite high engine temps, a little higher than what most people were used to. So the complaints came as did the traffic to the dealership mechanics. Kawasaki's response? They fitted a resistor to the gauge to bring the reading down a little. Complaints ceased. Phil

When you are working on this , you want 12v on one side of the harness and the other side of the harness is triggered (grounded) to cause the injector to activate . This takes place one time every other stroke of the c/shaft .

I also had that problem. The gasket was sucked in. Thought the P.O. just didn't know how to install a valve cover gasket, but the number of people reporting this makes wonder. Docc talks about his original valve cover gaskets and that's fine for him, but some people seem to have an unnatural amount vacuum in their crankcase. A little bit of vacuum is a great thing but too much is going to pull blow by gases through the wrist pin. My bike pissed on the leg of my Stitch and I don't want my new Stitch baptized in the same manner.

Wow, that is such a great question! As this is not an organized "rally" or actual "event", but only an "idea" - there really (really) is no schedule, locations, or prescribed roads or routes - yet, there are some historical commonalities . . . There tends to be a lot going on in the garage at TheLodgeatTellico all weekend, especially in the evenings. Folks tend to arrive Thursday or Friday, sometimes even Saturday. Most of us leave-out Sunday morning, but some stay on. Saturday invites us to ride as, and with whom, we see fit. Often solo, in pairs, or small groups will sally forth to engage the hills and dales (as well as the Appalachian Divide including the Cherohala Skyway and US 129 Deal's Gap/ "The Tail of the Dragon"). Saturday lunch at The Tapoco Lodge by the Cheoah ("Fugitive") Dam is very popular and we often find each other there, or another mile up US129 at the "Crossroads" (with NC28) that anchors the Tail of the Dragon. Y'all get familiar with the roads and places. Bring your maps and GPS routes to share and compare. Friday evening, under the pavilion at The Lodge at Tellico, will see some plans hatched and some alliances formed . . .

Ha! I was that guy ... but you know that. As for this SSR, I have yet to decide which Guzzi gets the nod. The Norge is now, sigh, history. Tales of that sale on site for the price of a beer (or better). Kathi has been looking forward to the XVIIIth, but our Seattle daughter just made her a conflicting offer of two weeks with the three grands out there, so I'll sadly solo it. Speaking of grands, one of our Maryland set is visiting. Plan to give her a ride on the EV today. She is game, but worried as she thinks "motorcycles are so dangerous." That from a 13-YO who does this every weekend, and just back from a blue-ribbon "event(ing)" in N.C.! Anyway, looking forward to the SSR albeit sans supervisor. Bill

Be certain the external shift assembly is properly adjusted and the lever does not strike anything (like the Frame Side Plate). There is another spring (of three) that re-centers the lever. It could need attention, as well. Perhaps, it was installed backward. See Image 7 in the first post of the link below . . . @Lucky Phil produced this fabulous tutorial: