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Well Phil, why don't you spell them out for the stupid among us? Listen, everyone tolerates your irascibility because you know your stuff, but you would do well to internalize the fact that you're not some oracle of knowledge. I doubt that there's anything you know about brake calipers that I don't, and that I simply stated the core purpose without flinging academia and gratuitous erudition to people who haven't asked and probably don't care. Let's not turn this place into Wildguzzi, ok? Slow your roll.

I made myself some new spark plug wires with the red NGK racing from mgcycles. Cut to length with new connectors (marxparts) and reused old coil boots. No corrosion in the terminal. I was able to swap them out without removing the fuel tank. It's a bit of an awkward spot but doable.

Next dumb question, are replacement switches available? It looks unique, like it was made at George Jetson's company (Spacely Sprockets).

https://www.motociclismo.it/guzzi-che-altro-moto-54327

I also did the home brew injector cleaning, there is a $20 injector tester that will open and close the injectors, I hooked up a low pressure pump and ran seafoam through the injectors (1 at a time) while in an ultrasonic cleaner (no heat). Did great on my Bosch L-Jet injectors, also did my Quota injectors. You can inspect the patterns before and after and see an improvement. Just FYI, don't try to use straight Lucas injector cleaner, way too thick, could not pump it.

I've been running the real gasket silicone valve cover gaskets for a couple of years on my Quota and Ambassador, very happy with them. Tried the silicone pan gasket on the Quota, not as happy, went back to the paper gasket and reusable sealant, the low torque spec on the silicone pan gasket made me nervous, tried blue loctite, but still was not happy. Leaked and when I pulled it off it had tears.

The handlebar kill switch on my bike is a bit dodgy. I have to fiddle with it every once in awhile to get the bike to start. So, if I take it apart to clean it, I'm hoping that pieces to a Timex won't fall out? That it's pretty straight forward connection and switch? Docc, I did a couple of searches and didn't find anything before I asked. Just a word of caution or encouragement before a get the hammers out would be greatly appreciated. thanx.

What a travesty. For one, docc doesn't "kick [people] off the board." I suppose the more considerable concern for us, as a small community, is our "tone" or general decorum. This is as grumpy a thread I've seen in a long, long time. Over what? Brakes? "Delivery?" Some perceived slight to one's knowledge or contribution? FWIW, I was learning a little more and more all along the discussion. Until it got unnecessarily "personal."

I find the fragile plastic parts, switches, ign locks easyer to deal with, with a little help from a hair dryer or. Cheers Tom.

Thia is why I sent mine off to a rebuilder . They sent them back with a bunch of specs. Flow , pressure drop , etc. They will send you a matched set if yours do not match or come (and I mean) close .

Tranquilo hijo

The day I lay my bike that far over is the moment before I lay my bike down !

Been a while since I've had mine open. Seems it will "clamshell" enough to inspect the wiring and spray Caig DeOxit® into it while flipping the switch on and off. If the toggle , itself, is loose on its pivot, the switch is probably done-for . . .

I think I will modify how my bags mount to the hangers to give me some more clearance. Really want a tail box.

I had a hard time starting my greenie, never could figure it out, on it's last ride, it took 15 minutes to start, had to put it on the battery charger after a while. I had a couple of different maps loaded, all the same. Once warm, no issues, started first time. Replaced one of the injectors to no help. It could be as simple as a little more fuel for cold starts. I've been working on my Alfa Milano with a GoTech MFI injection system, so I'm learning a lot about cold start.

Mine looks like #5 https://www.proflowtech.com/the-technology/

Until someone pulls a real-life example to present, I'll say that there is *no* case in which an injector should have a steady stream. The entire fuel mixing scheme demands atomization, whether gasoline or diesel. It sounds like the pintles are stuck wide open, which makes no sense unless the computer is demanding it, and not possible on a bench without a signal connection. Here's a video showing how to test the signal to the injectors using a 'noid' light- back in the early days of EFI we made our own with a 3- or 6- volt dc light bulb, soldering wires to it to shove into the harness plug. Edit; sorry I missed the previous mention of noid lights. You can simply make your own from a 6v taillamp bulb or flashlight bulb and some thin wire.

Says "BREMBO" instead of " Brembo ?"

Haha: " 5. I still might be confused. " Thanks for the clarifications. Yours weren't the only posts that had me confused. But, that's on me. I looked in my pile and see my replacement valve cover gaskets, for my thinning originals, are the green OEM "whatever-the-hell-they're-made-of " type. I did get the metal type for my eventual timing chest gasket change (also still original). The RealGasket silicone jobs go with me to places like the SpineRaid where a sudden need might arise. ( Thank you, @HRC_V4 ! )

Note that these pieces are prototypes, not final product. There are a few rough edges, holes are not yet holes, and I presume the CF was laid a bit quickly. Even with the final product, you will know that this is hand-laid fiber. To me, that's a plus -- and similar to the rest of the CF bits on my bike. If you're not okay with that, walk away. First up, a pic of the humps: Prototype at north. Note that this was an attempt to replicate the more satin finish of the vacuum-method pieces. I am not a fan. Next up, the side cover. Original on right. If people want these, we should figure out what to do about the depression for the gummy stickers (wanted or not). Next, a close up of the samples of the Kevlar weaves. They are leaning against the prototype side panel with regular 2x2 CF weave.

While I do wish you the best with the sale, @Bbennett, I also want to wish you the very best, personally. Another early Sport original owner and member here since 2004 (18 years !). Best regards, and don't be a stranger!

Oh, bugger. It's idling over 1000 on the tacho, haven't checked in GuzziDiag. Might have to go over this again.... Have I invented a new procedure, BTW? 😉 Thanks for all your help. In case anyone else is in despair and reads this, here are some things of note.... Things that were compounding the problem: Jammed up white knob and sync rod thread would not allow easy adjustment to get rod on the ball joint without putting something else out of adjustment. Fast idle had somehow crept in after setting idle screws, nudging the right throttle more open before attaching rod, make sure it doesn't nip up the throttle when tightening back up. Possible exhaust leaks. An ECU map that was richer than standard, making the left cylinder (which nearly closed) too rich at idle, therefore sooty. Possible air leaks around perished rubber intake. P.S. I saved myself £90 as well, which is how much a Guzzi specialist had quoted for a TPS reset, and I wouldn't have had the satisfaction of knowing I had done it myself, and knowing how everything was set.

@WeegieYeah, we could take this back over to the (lengthy) Best Relay thread, but in short the NO contact of most micro relays (Panasonic included) is 20 amps. The NO contact on our #5 carries the injectors, coils, and fuel pump coming in at some 22.5 amps. Check how hot yours gets as an indication how well it's working. @Grim Those compression numbers seem fine. Certainly symmetrical. If your battery went flat that quickly, perhaps getting it well conditioned and swapping the relays (3<->5) is worth the small fuss. Otherwise, I still ponder about grooming your exhaust, getting all lined up and fully seated at every joint. The last time I had to set my air screws very much differently, I found the intake vacuum taps had loosed up enough to cause trouble.

That may be an opportunity. The Panasonic are good relays, but are under-rated for the fifth position (fuel injection/ignition), especially. True High Current (micro) Relays have become hard to come by, but worth sourcing. As a minimum, swap your middle relay (Neutral Switch Relay) with the fifth (FI/Ignition) and repeat your hand-flapper test . . .

By comparison, the XS650 is a reliable appliance. Alternator brushes every 15K or so and ride. As to Guzzi, I suspect that the company's products emerged from some sort of bizarre Fellini-esque drama-noir tale of death by slow descent into madness.

some people claim to be mad but have yet to be tested

The Workshop Manual states the vacuum should be within 5mm Hg (mercury) as I recall. Again, no pure specification, only the maximum allowable variance. I am not sure if your gauges are already calibrated to display mm Hg? (Seems my Sport pulls the Hg columns into the 50s at around 2500-3000 rpm. Oh, and gstallons is right on about sucking the mercury. Chopping the throttle from 3000 would be a bad idea!

Why? How much fucking time do you think I have in my life. I give away what I've learned here for free, you don't like my style then block my posts. You don't value or agree with the info then just ignore it. Same for anyone here, you got a problem with the delivery then don't read my posts or PM docc and get me kicked off the board. Seriously in the grand scheme of things I really don't give a shit at the end of the day. As a matter of fact I think I'm done here.

I just posted it to WG, so it's the same screed. Well I binned my Moto Guzzi EV and scraped myself up pretty good. I was taking a left hand cloverleaf downhill to merge on to the expressway, lightly trail braking and the bike low-sided and scraped the pavement. I highsided and rolled over and kissed the pavement twice since my modular helmet was open. The bike was still running on the curb. All kinds of traffic was barreling down that blind cloverleaf behind me. A couple of good Samaritans helped me get the bike up and asked if I wanted an ambulance. I want to get the bike moved, my shop is couple miles away. Anyway, we got it up and it started. The windshield, running boards, crash bar and grab handled were buggered on the left side and handlebar bent. There was a big bunch of wadded plastic like packing material in the front fender it was wrapped around the caliper. I didn't consider it at the time but I'm pretty sure that was the culprit. I had my gear on but my old mesh jacket ripped and I've got road rash my forearm and elbow, my nose and chin are scraped as well a small spot on my right knee. Those riding jeans I wrote about aren't ripped. My Shoei is a little knacked on the chinbar since it was open. In the mess of getting it all together I lost one of my custom earplugs, this irks me the most. I call the wife and tell her to meet me at the shop. The cops come by and asks if I want an ambulance. I've got my gear on by then and just want to ride it to the shop. The clutch won't work, it's lost the pivot pin. We find a sheet metal screw on the pavement, good enough. I try to adjust the mirrors and fail. So I ask the cop to block traffic so I can ride it. For some reason he's screws around and I just take off down the expressway at the first break. I get off at the first exit and doubleback 3 miles to the shop. I finally get the mirrors adjusted half way there. I'm grateful to be moving to get some air riding back with the helmet still open. When I get there one of the techs wife is an EMT and they patch up my elbow. I wait and call my wife again, she misunderstood and is panicked and not left yet. I try to cool off, wash up and drink lots of water. Bev picks me up. I get home have a beer and take a Tylenol and a stashed muscles relaxer. Take a shower and have scotch and write this story. I'm going to have to get earplugs. I've got other helmets and jackets. My lower back is a little sore.