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What a travesty. For one, docc doesn't "kick [people] off the board." I suppose the more considerable concern for us, as a small community, is our "tone" or general decorum. This is as grumpy a thread I've seen in a long, long time. Over what? Brakes? "Delivery?" Some perceived slight to one's knowledge or contribution? FWIW, I was learning a little more and more all along the discussion. Until it got unnecessarily "personal."

I am reluctant to jump into this shitshow, but here is something that some here may not understand. In the world of brakes, brake pistons, and brake pads, it is not about which one moves first. It is about pressure applied to press the pads against the rotors. Even pad wear is about managing the pressure of the pads against the rotor. The pads are never far from the rotors, the distance the pistons travel in a typical application of the brakes is tiny. So whether one moves first or not isn't really what it is about. It is about applying the right pressure across the brake pad(s). That pressure is a product of the ratio between the master cylinder and the piston applying the pressure to that brake pad. Different size slave pistons change that pressure applied for a given amount of pressure at the master cylinder.

Topic moderation: Since the Original Post is specifically about a modification to the original V11 brakes, I see no value in attempting to further discuss the original brake configuration. Certainly, there is no value to further belabor any perceived offenses to our sensibilities. I see everyone got the opportunity to reply in that regard. This thread has not been locked. Only this post has been reported. If the Original Poster would like to let us know how his 4-pad brake calipers work out, that would be great.

Sounds like you were having a bad day Phil..We all have them...( Especially me, I've been on the wagon for 2 weeks). I hope to continue to see you here as you are a valuable contributor imo. Cheers!

Thanks Docc, I'm in Copperopolis, Ca. I'm picking up an 03 Lemans in two weeks in Indiana and riding back to California.

I buy Timeserts from these guys- https://www.mechanicstoolsandbits.com/time-sert/metric-kits/metric-kits-/time-sert-1012-m10-x-1-25mm-metric-thread-repair-kit.html The kits aren't cheap, but a lot less than a new caliper. I don't have a 10mm kit or I'd just send it along. If the entry side of the hole is unthreaded, you can use a short insert and install it from the rear. Being such a critical point, I'd expect there is plenty of material surrounding the repair area but give it some consideration. A Time-sert removes just a bit more material than a Heli-coil.

Timeserts are the biz but a helicoil will work just fine Bill. While it's off the bike I'd suggest taking the pads out and removing the caliper from the pins it slides on, cleaning them and re-greasing. If this isn't done from time to time the caliper will seize on the pins and then you'll have to give someone $400!

Well Phil, why don't you spell them out for the stupid among us? Listen, everyone tolerates your irascibility because you know your stuff, but you would do well to internalize the fact that you're not some oracle of knowledge. I doubt that there's anything you know about brake calipers that I don't, and that I simply stated the core purpose without flinging academia and gratuitous erudition to people who haven't asked and probably don't care. Let's not turn this place into Wildguzzi, ok? Slow your roll.

Another round with this dead horse then....grab your beatin' sticks. My (Veglia) tach quit on me coming back from a recent camping trip ( 00' Greenie) With the bike shut off the tach reads ~300rpm, not 0. With the bike running the needle will limply flap around below ~1500 rpm but I assume this is only vibration moving the needle. This leads me to believe it is a mechanical failure inside the instrument housing. A cursory check of my charging system doesn't indicate anything untoward. The bike has siemens relays, but i've not experienced any issue with lighting, horn etc that one might expect from a faulty relay. (Tach, indicators, lights all controlled by 2nd relay from front no?). I've swapped a few relays around and verified no funny business or change in brightness of the lighting, response of the indicators etc. I've got the tach out of the dash and on the bench, is there anything I'm missing or should consider before I start opening the tach? My profuse thanks in advance. Sam

That will be an awesome trip. Take 36 instead of 70.

So, at ~$560US, including the ECU and hangers, I'm surprised no one has scooped this up. Could it be the "May not ship to the US ?"

What Docc said.

I seem to recall that discussion now. I remain, however, somewhat confused -- my usual state -- as to ordering . The fastener is a M10x30; a 1.25 thread pitch I think. But most of the "tunnel" from flange to stop is unthreaded. Seems a pretty short throw for a thread fix, but the billet aluminum threads held it, so the steel fix surely should, assuming, of course, that it has enough space to seat. Bill

I recall knowledgeable contributors here emphasizing "Time-Sert " as the best thread repair insert: http://www.timesert.com/

I find the fragile plastic parts, switches, ign locks easyer to deal with, with a little help from a hair dryer or. Cheers Tom.

https://www.motociclismo.it/guzzi-che-altro-moto-54327

I believed you, I just wanted to learn more about it. As they say, sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words. And I had to "unlearn" some things I thought I knew.

Why? How much fucking time do you think I have in my life. I give away what I've learned here for free, you don't like my style then block my posts. You don't value or agree with the info then just ignore it. Same for anyone here, you got a problem with the delivery then don't read my posts or PM docc and get me kicked off the board. Seriously in the grand scheme of things I really don't give a shit at the end of the day. As a matter of fact I think I'm done here.