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I guess it's normal to join a forum when searching for a solution to a problem - I will try to contribute where I'm able to as well! My 2001 V11 started to misfire, never when cold and always on the over-run / low throttle. Just the occasional miss but consistent in these situations. It's not repetitive enough to work out if it's specific to one cylinder or both. It ticks over fine and runs well on anything above low throttle. I have so far, replaced plugs and leads, tried with the power commander out of circuit. Plug colour looks good after running and in all other respects the bike runs fine. Also worth mentioning that it started after / soon after I put the bike back together after replacing the clutch. Can't actually recall if it was immediately afterwards. Any advice and suggestions gratefully received. Cheers, Mike.

I suggest first lifting the rear wheel. See if you can get it to shift when you rock the wheel back and forth. A lot of problems are due to obstructed or sticky linkage. So you might want to pull the starter and get a good view of everything. Check that the pivot bolt is not too tight. Check everything before you pull the cover off (it needs to be removed before you remove the cover anyway, so just take your time with disassembly. Even though your spring was replaced recently, new ones have been known to fail after only a few thousand miles. That happened to me and was one of the reasons I got involved with the effort to re-engineer the shift spring. One more test for you to consider. This is based on the premise that the internal shifting arm needs to be pushed toward the front of the bike to engage (that's what the spring does). If you have a small hill, roll the bike down and hit the brakes hard. Sometimes this will cause the internal shift mechanism to go back into place and you will get one or two shifts before it falls out again. If that happens, the spring is almost certainly broken.

Once a leak(s) starts, it is probably about correctly replacing seals. Seems I spent ten years of my V11 life about this . . . I had to abandon RedLine ShockProof "Heavy" /pink after my suspicions that I could not judge re-fill volume and likely overfilled. Even going to RedLine ShockProof "Light Weight", judging how much lubricant is retained after draining is unknowable. Today, a cold reardrive drain, with formed drain channel and (orange) duct tape tab to deflect the last drops away from the wheel/tire (worked a charm!): After about an hour, buttoned it up and added an accurately measured 350 ml (of the 370 ml V11 reardrive capacity) of RLSPLW/"blue". Waited several hours and opened the "level plug" (with the front wheel in a SportChock), capturing ~10 ml. Not sure what this means to refill volumes with the so-very-clingy Redline ShockProof, but it is very challenging not to overfill!

thats likely a broken shift selector spring. You'll want to get one of the new design installed. Member Scud has them. Might be some extras with members in Europe. Fairly easy fix.

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The shift selector spring has been replaced a few months ago. I have had since then problems to shift down. Problem has not been solved. Now for the second down gearbox problems. Maybe I can used such a new spring. First I let inspect the gearbox. Thanks for the info.

Hi, MikeMetal! Well, you have definitely come to a place full of folks that LOVE to figure out what has gone awry with a V11 ! That low throttle mis-fire when hot is a sensitive area for the V11, no doubt. Any relationship to the clutch work might suggest the throttle linkage got jostled out of synch, or perhaps the regulator is nudging the TPS. Here is a great way to baseline your tuning parameters: Keep us in the loop!

Hello Paul, I ride a ‘04 Sport and at 6’3” the bike fits me very well. No two people are alike but with different options to handlebars and lowering pegs I feel you can make the V11 platform fit to your needs. Hope that helps

Picture of the old steel fitting and the new mostly aluminium fitting. BTW, the original V11 vent is always open, so "burping" doesn't do anything.

I've never seen water in my bevel box, but I replaced the vent fitting anyway because: a. It could let water in. b. It was unnecesarily heavy lump of steel. c. because I could. .

Isn't this a technique to relieve pressure from the earlier (pre-V11), un-vented rear drives by getting them hot then opening the filler cap to "burp" pressure buildup? This should be a non-issue with the vented V11 reardrive as long as the vent is not blocked.

I tried a set of the silicon realgaskets and went back to stock paper after getting leaks from squeeze issues. There seems to be a narrow window of correct torque for the cover hold down bolts and I never found it.