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So, I've got the tach apart, electing to do things the hard way as is my custom. Rather than hack the case I painstakingly uncrimped the chrome bezel, cracking the glass in the process (typical). No matter, I'm in the local glass shop a few times a month anyway. What I discovered was that one of the ultra-fine copper wires has broken at the solder joint. Assuming this is the culprit, as I suspect it is, I should be up and running again shortly. I hadn't noticed prior to the failure if the tach ever read 0, but in my disassembly, decided that it couldn't conceivably have done so, a simple case of the needle being stuck in the shaft a few degrees too high, I'll fix that too since I'm in here. Thanks for the peace of mind. Assuming all goes swimmingly I'll post a write up with pics and add it to the pile. The numerous threads on the issue already have been most useful. Cheers

PM just sent - we'll get dowieze back on the road.

Overwhelmed with home maintenance jobs over the weekend, apart from pushing some bikes in & out of the garage, didn’t manage anything Guzzi related…

Ago can still steal your girl! Ha!

I suggest first lifting the rear wheel. See if you can get it to shift when you rock the wheel back and forth. A lot of problems are due to obstructed or sticky linkage. So you might want to pull the starter and get a good view of everything. Check that the pivot bolt is not too tight. Check everything before you pull the cover off (it needs to be removed before you remove the cover anyway, so just take your time with disassembly. Even though your spring was replaced recently, new ones have been known to fail after only a few thousand miles. That happened to me and was one of the reasons I got involved with the effort to re-engineer the shift spring. One more test for you to consider. This is based on the premise that the internal shifting arm needs to be pushed toward the front of the bike to engage (that's what the spring does). If you have a small hill, roll the bike down and hit the brakes hard. Sometimes this will cause the internal shift mechanism to go back into place and you will get one or two shifts before it falls out again. If that happens, the spring is almost certainly broken.

If the shift plate must come off for the new, improved SuperSpring, @dowieze, definitely apply @Lucky Phil's deft methods to the internal shift mechanism:

You might note if you hear something rattling around in it. If so, it's likely the counterweight. If you can get the bezel off, then you can glue it back on. Getting the bezel off is the hard part. I used a big hose clamp to squeeze the metal case and then I used a paint can opener to pry the bezel off off. I might've filed the opener to fit and be careful not to break the glass. If you do, a glass shop can cut you a new one (don't ask how I know). Glue the weight on with a light application of epoxy. Use soap or silicone on the rubber gasket to reinstall the bezel. If it doesn't rattle, don't even start. Call Joel Levine.

For sure these tachs commonly read 300-500 rpm too high. Must be easier to stick the needle on there on the assembly line. Definitely matters when setting the idle and it is actually 300-500 rpm low (1050-500=650!) I'm glad you found some tach threads. From memory, I was thinking there are magnets that can come loose? A spring can break? Maybe a diode that can go bad? Thanks for getting back with what you find!

If no one has the new and improved model, I can mail you my old one......lemme know Paul B

Absolutely, there’s quite a range of ergonomics available between low clips, high clips and ‘proper’ handlebars.

Could the eccentric be set incorrectly? Just a thought… although good to have a spare spring anyways.

A mailer from USPS to Belgium will probably be somewhere between 12-15 US dollars. Paging @Scud Mr. Scudder to the courtesy phone, please..

I'm looking for a decent shift selector spring. They are hard to find in Belgium. I've read that you have a re-engineered spring. Is it possible to buy such a spring? I can not find any information about the sending cost for a secure envelope to Belgium - Europe. Maybe you have some experience in sending to Europe. Thanks

Hello Paul, I ride a ‘04 Sport and at 6’3” the bike fits me very well. No two people are alike but with different options to handlebars and lowering pegs I feel you can make the V11 platform fit to your needs. Hope that helps

Once a leak(s) starts, it is probably about correctly replacing seals. Seems I spent ten years of my V11 life about this . . . I had to abandon RedLine ShockProof "Heavy" /pink after my suspicions that I could not judge re-fill volume and likely overfilled. Even going to RedLine ShockProof "Light Weight", judging how much lubricant is retained after draining is unknowable. Today, a cold reardrive drain, with formed drain channel and (orange) duct tape tab to deflect the last drops away from the wheel/tire (worked a charm!): After about an hour, buttoned it up and added an accurately measured 350 ml (of the 370 ml V11 reardrive capacity) of RLSPLW/"blue". Waited several hours and opened the "level plug" (with the front wheel in a SportChock), capturing ~10 ml. Not sure what this means to refill volumes with the so-very-clingy Redline ShockProof, but it is very challenging not to overfill!

My silver V11 & a friends new acquisition, a 1963 Ariel Golden Arrow, a 2 stoke 250 twin, built in Small Heath Birmingham nearly 60 years ago. By the time the Ariel Arrow stopped production in 1967, the British bike industry was almost finished with Small Heath itself closing in 1973

Here’s that more video, Prince takes over at 3:30 at the 2004 Hall of Fame Inductions

Yes, it's an ESR515, which is available in two wire connection configurations for the V11 (pre 2003, and 2003+). I showed the wiring connector differences for pre and post 2003 models about a dozen or so posts above should you be interested. I did apply some dialectic grease after making the connections, so hopefully protected for a while anyway. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

I followed your advice and added to it. I have the std ground from batt to tranny, then a second wire, same gauge goes from the tranny bolt to a point on the frame, and a third (duplicate of the battery grnd) from the frame point to the R/R case. So basically same gauge wire from the battery to the R/R, stopping off at 2 points. All scraped and scrubbed and DeOxit'd, with soldered connectors. I'm with ya maybe it doesn't do much but when you're talking about "maybe it's grounded and maybe it's not," then maybe over kill is in order.