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Always the strange, unexpected world one finds under the stairs.

https://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2004-Moto-Guzzi-V11-COPPA-ITALIA-5023101525

I can see why the cam sensor quit working . The break was under a secondary wrap of electrical tape. I put in the new sensor and have spark again. I should have it back together this weekend. [edit, October 5: "The insulation was rock hard. The break was right at where it was tie-wrapped to the frame. It was probably just twenty years of vibration and heat. "

Yes just 2 wires. 4 seasons with the first 847, all perfect. Just sharing experienses here. Have one ready for my hot rod V11 1999, winther enjoyment. Charging 14.73V idling, never above 15V. No worries about the 30amp fuse, just +++. Cheers Tom

There are (almost) always things that go down at SpineRaids behind the scenes. Spineys gets sat on . . . Friendly strangers share >blue things< like Free Candy . . .

Seems like somewhere I remember shaft nuts coming loose being one cause.

Too bad Phil is not around...

All you need to do is make sure that your selector box is in neutral when you reinstall and shifting forks in trans are lined up

Its refreshing to see there are proper Coppa Italia's out there. Ciao

This owner's view description of a Moto Guzzi Sport 1100 Corsa describes the era of time that the Ducati 900ss & Guzzi were derived. The last true Sports Bike from Guzzi 13 August 2021 by Honorary Swede Version: Corsa Year: 1998 Annual servicing cost: £250 A contemporary of the Ducati 900SS (Pantah) and it shares same failings as they were products of effectively bankrupt companies of parts bin engineering and some very cheap components and dubious paint work. But despite this they are both glorious bikes which are easy to maintain, robust mechanics and ooze character that makes them worth spending money on today despite being over two decades old. To ride the 1100 sport you will find many flaws weight and size means that on a tight B road it can feel like you are trying to steer a narrow boat and the need for Guzzi to squeeze a marketable 150 mph out of the bikes whilst using an exiting gear set means it is stuck with a high top gear which makes stop start hard work and your clutch hand strong. The gear change is not anywhere near as agricultural (better than BMW’s of the same era) as people will have you believe; it is genuinely positive but slow by modern standards. Up changes are clutch-less and easily done smoothly, down changes need to be done with plenty of time, not because of the gearbox, but heavy flywheel (not by Guzzi standards) and primitive fuel injection means you need time to pick the revs up. My technique is to drop two gears to third and then drop to second as you enter the roundabout or turn. If you have money to spend, then there as some good improvements, if you have a Corsa (the last variant) then you get the stronger conrods but more importantly you have the lighter and more efficient Termignoni exhaust which sounds fantastic whilst still being quiet enough to not offend the MOT man. Replica systems are available from the Guzzi specialists or you can have one fabricated. I would recommend an ECU upgrade to improve throttle response (I use the MY-ECU) which offers a closed circuit option, ability to Bluetooth android devices and an auto tune function to adapt it to your style, fuel etc. If you go this route don’t fall into the trap of junking the airbox, instead fit a K&N filter and take advantage of the ram air effect that used to confuse the old open loop fuel injection. If you have more money, then I would recommend dual plugging, as the high compression pistons are domed and so the engine needs to run a large torque robbing ignition advance. Dual Plugging reduces this by 20% and gives a good boost to the mid-range. If you are doing this I would also recommend when the heads are off that you get the heads modified as the squish area is suboptimal and causes a lower mid-range flat spot. I went all in, included a tweaked cam, balanced crankshaft, ported valves as well. The end result was the bike on dyno now just edges the 110hp they claimed for the Corsa with the Termignoni exhaust, but biggest improvement is in fueling and broad and strong mid-range torque curve that will hurl you between the bends without need to trouble the gearbox (3rd for B Roads, 4th for twisty A Roads and 5th for sweeping A roads prison sentence speeds). This brings me back to why I give it 5 stars, I have more modern, more powerful and better bikes, but none feel so special or are as rewarding to ride well as the Guzzi.

Shindengen 847 is happy with Lithium or AGM, by all reports. I put one on my '74 Aermacchi 2-wire alternator and it's steady at 14.4v, even with only 140 watts.

Thanks TomChri. That may be a good option for me. I'll look into postage costs. The Shindengen 847 look interesting and I suppose not much more than the OEM type products. Thanks for your suggestion.

https://www.modaemotorimagazine.com/moto-guzzi-una-v100-per-wolverine/

https://www.modaemotorimagazine.com/moto-guzzi-una-v100-per-wolverine/

My Mistral canisters are 2x2 (diagonal lines). I would like to match the bum-humper to them. Not that they are visible to anyone but me, as my nasty (but useful) Tekno panniers obscure them. Will all the Humpers be the same, or will the fabricator lay them up individually? > humper-hopers want to know < (BTW, I love this plan. )

I have a few OEM used ones, that can be had for 40£ each + shipping. I went for Shindengen 847, working great, connects directly to the battery so no strain to the electrical system. Roadstercycle in CA. Cheers Tom.

When you look at the wiring coming out from the switch,,, every time from right to left with the handle bars, makes unnesseserly stress on the cables. What I did,,, gave the cables some room and strapped them at the switch, not perfect, but relieves the stress on the soldering. Cheers tom

Bike stranded me and would only downshift from 6th to 5th and no more. Assumed it was spring. Pulled selector box and springs are intact. Since I was slammed with work I sent selector box off to have it checked and super spring installed. Before I went any further I checked the shifting mechanism and cleaned and lubed and its working fine and hitting nothing. Reassembled everything today and shifts just fine 1st thru 6th but will only downshift from 6 to 5th. Shifting forks looked fine to an untrained eye. Any thoughts before I set it on fire, good grief I'm really starting to hate this thing.