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Happy to say that with all the great content here in the forum I removed the selector box, disassembled it, marvelled at it's workings, cleaned it, installed the Scud spring, surfaced and polished the pawl arm, put her all back together, put it up on the bench vise, and started walking through the selector positions. Eventually settled on about 1/4" turn adjustment to the eccentric in order to get more throw on upshifts. Seemed like the pawl arm wasn't easily getting all the way ramped and over the selector roller. Reinstalled it dry to the bike and put it back on the garage floor. Rolled it through a few series of up/downs through all the gears. Seemed good enough to follow on with sealant. Hoping for no oil seepage tomorrow. One bummer ... the two vertical Allens immediately adjacent the starter (furtherst left on the box) have very weak thread engagement as if they're stripped, which makes no sense. Seems par for the course, though. Will enjoy getting a few rides before the weather turns and then the decision to keep her or not. My thanks to those that delved into these issues long ago and took the time to pass on the knowledge. Diving in there was a little initimidating, but once in the midde of it and solving problems, quite enjoyable.

Lovely looking bike. I ordered mine in march but just cancelled it due to the shitty dealer in Portugal.

^^^^^^^^^^^ My lawyer will be contacting you. As for current events, Kathi -- sag wagon driver and support-team supervisor -- and I are in Daviess County, Kentucky, for mutton and more. I rode the Griso; two friends joined on other Guzzis. A very WET first day, then a grand ride on Friday. The big mutton event is today. More pix on return, but here's one ... Bill

Scud, sending you a paypal for one of the super springs...my original spring is living on borrowed time! Thanks for all the hard work making V11's even better than when new! Andy

Loc-tite makes a thread repair kit they call Form-a-Thread. I've not used it before, but it may be worth a try. (in addition to longer bolts if possible. Edit - I see you already sealed it. There are lot of bolts on the cover, so chances are that the sealant and the ones you can get to proper torque will do the job.

I wonder if a couple of slightly longer allens would give better purchase, if there's room of course.

Oh lookee! https://tlm.nl/search-results-page?q=Norge footrest plate

Could the problem be related to Cash1000's experience? https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21632-false-neutrals/

Always the strange, unexpected world one finds under the stairs.

There are (almost) always things that go down at SpineRaids behind the scenes. Spineys gets sat on . . . Friendly strangers share >blue things< like Free Candy . . .

I have to say, I am most appreciative to the fellows that stayed with me on the descent from The Divide as my front brakes failed. Not a happy time for me. We stopped at the first overlook that was clear below the 1500 foot cloud ceiling. Took some pics and admired the view. Then, forty minutes working to release my locked front brakes to roll the last 1500 feet elevation/20 miles. You know you are medium-to-truly føøk'd when you blink-blink-awake and see docc's Sharpie and surgical tape applied to your personal vicinity . . .

The "South'n Spine Raid " has always been a hopeful model for "SpineRaids" wherever you are and whenever you can gather SpineFrames. OhioRiver SpineRaid? Surfin' SpineRaid? Varsseveld SpineRaid? Bungendore SpineRaid? Spinal IceRaid?

Well I grew up with both systems as well as a career working on Boeing and Airbus jets so I'm comfortable in both. For bearing clearances and such I tend to think in imperial but for everything else its metric. Larger dimensions ( I mean over about 0.040") are a pain in the arse in Imperial. 65mm is a hell of a lot easier to deal with than 2 and 9/16" for mine. Ciao

The pads/pistons would not retract and the lever was locked less than an inch from the grip (just enough room for my fingers). I removed the pad pins and retracted the pistons with small Channel-Locks, mopping up the fluid from the bleeders with a rag (did not have a small hose for the bleeder). I was concerned that on the ride down the rest of the mountain I would instinctively pull the brake lever and lock the pads against the rotor again, so the pen is secured there to chock the brake lever in place. We were all presuming something hydraulic, but back in the garage, the lever released when the retaining nut on the pivot pin was loosened. It had been installed 6,000 miles ago. The tiny ball that actuates the switch would not release until home and I completely disassembled and cleaned the mechanism. Current thinking is that the nasty white lithium grease I used combined with the moisture, temperature drop, and fine grit from the road construction to bind the pivot and switch actuator.