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Progressive Wilber springs mounted, rear in progress. Good news for next summer. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-A525F via Tapatalk

Ok. The answer lies in notes 1 and 5. The wht/blk connector mate on the frame harness is suspect. You'll have to do some patient sciencing here. Pull the plug very slightly apart so you can measure the actual voltage in from the headlamp circuit. That should measure within .2 volts of battery. If it measures a difference of more than .5 volts, you have a meaningful connection fault. If you measure a high differential, measure at the next accessible point upstream; if the mating connector in the harness is not molded as the regulator side is, probe the wire where it meets the terminal to see if you have a bad crimp. I hate poking holes in wires, but if you have to to measure voltage in the harness before and after the plugs it's necessary. I'd start by chasing the accessible points first. I don't think it will take very long to isolate the problem point. Another point of order is to use your meter to measure differential between the regulator case and battery negative. Though you've run a bypass, it's still important to know the ground is sufficient not to have a differential.

I could not "price" mySport. It embodies so much of this community's support and contributions as to be: > priceless <

Fitted everything back togethter today, hopefully 1day testing before hibernation. Cold asfalt doesn't invite to much. IPA time. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-A525F via Tapatalk

I was going to add earlier to check the Voltage on the black wire which I believe is the reference but didn't as @farfons stated he ran that wire to the battery and there was no change, the same with the earth but again he did that as well. In my experience on my Sporti that double "jack" plug comes apart easily, for now they're held together with a cable tie, but I'm going to cut them both off and replace it with something more secure. The reference itself is measured in a crap place passing through a fuse and 2 relays (starter & headlamp) in the Sport, not to mention the wire running the length of the bike, so corroded or dirty contacts could cause the reference to "see" low volts and lead to overcharging. That said you've already eliminated these as potential problem by running wiring to the battery to test and found no difference, so you've reached my level of ignorance on the issue.

An interesting point to the thread observer; the regulator in question appears to be identical to the one on my '97 Sport-i. Though my battery has always charged, I had suspicions about my system so installed a LED volt display which showed output to be a little weak. Improving grounds brought me to 13.8 volts, which I thought a bit low but I see in the schematic this is the setpoint intended. At this past Spine Raid, and just before, I noticed that the voltage increased to 14.2 and I was pleased but confused; now I have to inspect my reference circuit to see if it's actually overvolting marginally as is the OP's bike here.

It would be daunting to perform the entire ensemble of changes and upgrades that have evolved over all this time - charging, electrical, fueling, lighting, suspension, gearbox/shifting mods, instruments . . . Short answer: ~ nope ~

I thought I posted this AAR but apparently not. Swapping out Relay 3 for one of my Chinadians from ebay did help with my neutral light issue.

Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-A525F via Tapatalk

18,000 miles on a Guzzi tire? They must have rolled around the shop without starting it for that whole test . . .

You might want to rethink parting with that much moola - that's over a million Lira, bud . . .

I'd give you $500 for it. Cash! Don't answer now, think about it.

Those look like Staintune.

Addendum: A buyer should verify that the VIN is outside the early gearbox recall range, or that the recall was performed . . . https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=9199 5,100 miles? Someone should do the first tune-up here, pretty soon . . .

Docc, take note!! The patina on the clocks don't match usually a sign of a second speedo, but a really nice bike per the pics with a handle bar installed. https://tricities.craigslist.org/mcd/d/jonesborough-2001-moto-guzzi-11-sport/7537894943.html

Right . Cheers Tom.

I'll do all the tests you suggested. thanks a lot for your help!!

lol ... hope so ... i will let you know how long they last ...

So, some guy I know (he's my good friend, really, I'm not hating him for poking me with a hot stick) sends me some listing of a rather compromised, modified, and otherwise unfortunate V11 Sport on eBay. I reply something like, "Yeah, that's been bouncing around for a while. Pretty ridiculous price for something so bruised up." Then, he says (and we really are still friends), "Hmmm. So, what would it take to buy yours? Not the "market" price. What would it take?" Honestly, I had the most unsettling dream that night that mySport just fell out from under me while riding it. Then, while my phone fell apart trying to call my wife and insurance company, gentle people pitched in and worked at putting all the parts in a neat array. I mean, down to the individual clutch parts, cogs from the gear box, like a full exploded view. I even got a look at the journals on my crankshaft. ("Not bad !", we all said.) My phone still wouldn't stop falling apart and I finally woke up in a cold sweat. [You just can't make up crazy stories like this. But, gonna hafta have a talk with my bud . . . ] "What would it take?" "HOW MUCH FOR THE V11? THE GUZZI !!! HOW MUCH FOR THE GUZZI ?!? [what??] SELL IT TO ME! SELL ME THE SPORT! [Jaap !! Jaaaaap !!! . . .]

Docc, would you buy another bike if it was an exact low mileage version of your beloved Silver V11 Sport? Sort of a 2.0, let’s do it all over again bike. You could transfer some of the sentimental bits over from the original bike like the screen, pipes, horns and clip-ons. 🤔

the layout is -2 yellow wires from regulator -1 red wire +12v to battery -2 wires > 1 black voltage on key 1 white to no charge lamp i've attached the schematic of the regulator provided by @kiwi_roy in this forum and an image of the regulator itself

The war is part of the answer, the other is the Go Green or else policies that predated any war. I’m from KY where my company I work for is exposed to many industrial job sites, power plants and Coal mines included. During the Obama era, the EPA pressured TVA (Tennessee Valley Authority) to not keep their coal power plants up to date w regulations. In turn by default, a local Powerplant, TVA Paradise (historically powered the eastern US power grid, not Ky) was completely closed a couple years ago, without the ability to reverse course, a total tear down. There is a natural gas power-plant planned for its replacement, 👍🏼 but without a major gas pipeline to supply it. 🤔 While visiting Gibson Co coal in South Western Indiana recently, I asked who are some of the major buyers at the mine. I was surprised to learn, a large portion was being bought by Germany to supply their newly reopened coal power-plants. (4500 miles away). 😮 So cheap American coal energy is bypassing shuttered local power plants to supply German power plants, to keep the lights on (hopefully) during the Ukraine/Russian war. What a cluster of go Green policies gone haywire. 🤷🏻‍♂️ Sorry about the cheaper energy coal in my backyard rant.

I went ahead and ordered one from Germany. I forgot to check here first after I got no info on Wild. I should've known better. Thanks guys, we'll pocket it this info for the next time.

Best wishes for everyone to realize "The Moto Guzzi Experience " . . .

I made myself some new spark plug wires with the red NGK racing from mgcycles. Cut to length with new connectors (marxparts) and reused old coil boots. No corrosion in the terminal. I was able to swap them out without removing the fuel tank. It's a bit of an awkward spot but doable.

Yep, especially if you can get the bike up on a lift sitting vertical. Do be aware that the coil mounts are fragile, so don't be prying hard to remove the ignition wire. Good to check to be sure the mounts have not already failed (common).

I recently bought plug wire replacement parts from these good folks: https://marxparts.com/spark_plug_wire_and_fittings.htm (Although, I bought my red 7mm ignition wire online from O'reilly's.)

Yeah, man, the coil wire should have a terminal on it: That connection can be vulnerable to damage:

*I* wouldn't shy away. There's no reliability issue with genuine Honda parts. A long time ago I got to ride Ted Boody's ex-TT racer, a C&J framed XR600 with ALL the goodies. We had a 1/2 mile track on a Michigan lake. The thing would carry the front wheel at 80mph while sideways through the entire corner. Awesome.